View Full Version : ETA part number

09-12-2011, 01:00 PM
I can only read the VDO number of my ETA - 408.225/3/6. I have found on ebay many listing of very similar - like 408.225/3/3 - will this work? Do I have to remove it to get at the other part number? I am hesitant to do the actual rebuild myself - the rewiring of the internals so I was going to get a used one.

The symptoms are misfiring and sluggishness in certain pedal positions. I am going to slice open the cable tonight and check the wiring but in the meantime I want to be prepared... tnks to all!

09-12-2011, 01:05 PM
Have you considered one of the places that will rebuild your existing ETA for ~$300 or so? Then it's not an issue...


09-12-2011, 01:19 PM
I am all ears!! BBA?

09-12-2011, 02:23 PM
No, not BBA. It's a guy in the USA (Hillsboro, AL)... 100% positive feedback record so far:



09-15-2011, 08:00 AM
Thanks Dave

I called them - yes indeed they are in AK - strong accent!

I got the ETA off - fun job. I seem to recall seeing the P/N for the BLACK hoses leading from the ETA but can't find them in the electric thread - also need the rubber gasket and manifold gasket part numbers - going to keep digging for them..

You would think that they could have put a pinion type screw on the clamp to make it more accessable. Shame about the wiring as there is really no reason to have to take this part off otherwise...

09-16-2011, 05:12 AM
Got all the part numbers...

09-30-2011, 06:45 AM
OK - sent my ETA out to RFC in Alabama. I talked to the guy and he said they actually put the ETA on a car and test it.. anyway I got it back and installed it along with the new hoses. I tried to start the car and it just cranked and did not start for a while... I noticed that when I released the key from cranking it would cough so it seems the ingnition is only sparking when I release the key???

Finally after a lot of cranking i started but ran rough and would stall... Any ideas of what this could be? I checked all the connections and they seems to be o.k. - the old ETA wiring was sure in very bad shape so I know it needed rebuilding...

Maybe the caps and rotors need replacing also?

tnks to all!!

09-30-2011, 09:46 AM
I've read that a new (or rebuilt?) ETA may need to "synch" with the computers after replacement... try turning on the key (but not starting the engine) and leaving the ignition on for about 2 minutes before starting. Have you checked & cleared all error codes, btw? If so, what codes (if any) appear after starting?


10-03-2011, 07:27 AM
Well I am back on the road... I disconnected the battery overnight, then connected it back up and turned the key to 'on' for 10 minutes... It starts right up but still has a problem where when driving it is missing then all of a sudden runs smooth and has power... After not driving it for a week and driving my 03 Ford Expedition it is easy to see what a powerful car it is (when running smooth). The caps and rotors do not look all that bad - no codes...

10-03-2011, 09:54 AM
Hmmm. I wonder if you're having fuel pump issues... very hard to diagnose that unfortunately.


10-06-2011, 08:45 AM
It is much better now after a few days of driving, the power is all there. When I stop at a light it 'misses' sometimes and when it does it feels like someone has crashed into the back of the car - it shakes! And it runs rough at times also.. but anyway I am back on the road and it is running much better.. tnks Dave!

As far as the rebuild company, Roden Electronics, they did a great job - the ETA looks brand new. I even called them to ask about the issues I was having and they called back to see if the problem was fixed... Well worth it over a new or rebuild or used...