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emerydc8
12-10-2013, 11:00 PM
I put this under electrical even though it deals with the plug to my coolant reservoir quantity sensor. When I replaced the reservoir, I pulled the plastic plug off the sensor and the wire to one of the pins was badly corroded and coming loose.

Once I got the pin pulled out of the plastic plug (that needs replaced too, eventually), I burned the old solder out with a torch and resoldered the wire back on, but I'm almost sure there is a better way to connect the wire than the way I did it prior to soldering it.

The pin is hollow but has a few holes in the wall of the side facing the plug (away from the sensor pins), apparently to run the wire through or around it. The wire comes out of the plug and connects to the pin, which you can push back down into the plug once it's soldered.

My question is, is there a correct (Mercedes) way to wrap the wire around the hollow part of that pin before soldering it?

Glen
12-10-2013, 11:52 PM
The wire should go into the holes on the side of the tube. Straight in and soldered up. So, when done the wire will be perpendicular to the tube.

emerydc8
12-11-2013, 12:01 AM
Thanks, Glen. So it just parallels the pin on the outside up to one of the holes (the first hole) and then a 90 degree bend through the hole so it is perpendicular to the pin? How does the wire stay in place as you solder it? (pic)

Glen
12-11-2013, 12:09 AM
It doesn't parallel the pin. What you want to do is strip the wire no more than the diameter of the pin or tube in your picture. Tin the wire and also the inside of the tube at the holes (in the side of the tube). Then heat the tube with the tip of the iron while holding the wire right by the hole. The solder in the tube and wire end should melt at about the same time, at which point you push the wire into the hole. Then you move the iron away and let the wire/tube cool. You want the solder joint to be shiny when done. If it's dull, it's a cold joint and can fail down the road.

emerydc8
12-11-2013, 12:56 AM
That's great. That's why the original solder joint looked so perfect. I am going to order the plastic bushing housing (011 545 71 28) and some new 4mm pin bushings and try this. They are surprisingly cheap at parts.com ($2.28 and $1.80 for pins).

Before I order, though, I'm going to go through the car tomorrow and search for the different types of 4 mm pin bushing housings just to have in my collection. The coolant reservoir bushing housing is also used on the heating water valve and stop light switch. I suspect that MB uses a particular housing for multiple applications.

Thanks again! :bowdown:

Glen
12-11-2013, 12:06 PM
Here's a picture I found on the net of how the soldered wire should look:

emerydc8
12-11-2013, 07:18 PM
Thanks, Glen. I'm looking forward to trying it. I found that there are two pin bushing housings that cover quite a bit on the car.

Part 012 545 04 28 is used on the refrigerant temp sensor, brake reservoir, windshield washer reservoir, and cam position sensors.

Part 011 545 71 28 is used on the upshift delay solenoid (by brake res.), the purge valve, the heater water, stop light and coolant reservoir.

They are only a few bucks each so it would be good to have them handy, especially for the ones that are subject to a lot of engine heat and seem to disintegrate upon removal.

mistermiata
12-12-2013, 08:21 AM
Jon....are those part numbers for just the soldering pins, or for the whole female portion of the connector?

I seem to break a connector(the clips break that hold it to the male end) everytime I remove one!

gerryvz
12-12-2013, 09:00 AM
I try to order a supply of the aluminum pins, to have 8-10 on hand at any time.

But the "pin bushing housings" .... the plastic two- and three-pin connectors .... those are very important to have a stash of. They commonly break and there are many many of them underhood. I have broken at least 3 of them on my wife's E320 project and ordered 8 of them to have on hand as replacements. They are found on the 124 and 126 in numerous applications. Any long-term owner should really purchase a supply of them.

The aluminum pins come in handy for rewiring Euro lights, when you need to add the extra wire for the city lights.

Cheers,
Gerry

mistermiata
12-12-2013, 10:07 AM
Thanks Gerry, thats my plan to get a bunch of these connectors. Do you have part numbers for the 2 and 3 pin connectors?

Do you just cut the wires to the damaged connector and solder in the new connector when you replace these?

gsxr
12-12-2013, 10:23 AM
The plastic pin bushing housings are replaceable without cutting wires or re-soldering. The wires and sockets slide in & out. I need to get a photo of the common ones, but anyway, these are the two you'll probably use the most of. Jon's post above explains where these are found on a 400E/500E:

011-545-71-28 = Pin bush housing, 2-pole, 90, for 4mm female sockets

012-545-04-28 = Pin bush housing, 2-pole, straight, for 4mm female sockets

I always keep a half-dozen of each in stock.

:pc1:

mistermiata
12-12-2013, 11:16 AM
Thanks Dave!

Do you have the part# for the pin bushings themselves as shown in Jons post above (post #3)?

gsxr
12-12-2013, 11:21 AM
Thanks Dave!

Do you have the part# for the pin bushings themselves as shown in Jons post above (post #3)?
No, not offhand, sorry. I need to get photos of those as well.

I stopped buying them new as the price went to $2-$3 each. You can get unlimited quantities free at any Pick+Pull. They are almost always re-usable unless they are damaged or corroded.

:rugby:

emerydc8
12-12-2013, 02:15 PM
Andy,

The 4mm pin bushing number is 003 545 26 26. This is not the male end coming out of the sensor itself. This is the hollow, female end that seats into the pin bushing housing (picture above in post#3). They are listed in the EPC as NB (whatever that means) but parts.com has them for $1.80 each.

As corroded as mine was, I was able to clean it up with a blow torch (to melt out the old solder) and some sandpaper. You're right, though, that the part that breaks the most is the plastic pin bushing housing. The part numbers are listed above for the two most common.

gerryvz
12-12-2013, 03:05 PM
Here you go.... part number is 003 545 26 26:

gerryvz
12-14-2013, 11:12 PM
The plastic pin bushing housings are replaceable without cutting wires or re-soldering. The wires and sockets slide in & out. I need to get a photo of the common ones, but anyway, these are the two you'll probably use the most of. Jon's post above explains where these are found on a 400E/500E:

011-545-71-28 = Pin bush housing, 2-pole, 90, for 4mm female sockets

012-545-04-28 = Pin bush housing, 2-pole, straight, for 4mm female sockets

I always keep a half-dozen of each in stock.

:pc1:Here are some photos of the 2-pole connectors that GSXR references:

Some close-up views of the 90-degree housing, 011 545 71 28:
24102 24103


Some close-up views of the straight-on housing, 012 545 04 28:
24104 24105


And a side by side view:
24106


And close-ups of the part numbers (sorry for the poor quality):
24107 24108

emerydc8
12-15-2013, 01:05 AM
Thanks, Gerry. Definitely something to have in the shop. These things must be made of the engine wiring harness insulation.

Trae
12-15-2013, 06:58 AM
These look very much like the ones used in the Euro light upgrade.

mistermiata
12-15-2013, 08:22 AM
Thanks guys this cleared up a lot of confusion I had regarding these connectors! Again 500eboard to the rescue, best forum on the internet :bowdown: