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Thread: OWNER - wf758

  1. #61
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Something ain't right... not sure if that is motor, regulator, or both. Jono? Klink?


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  3. #62
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Bump window motor question in Post #60


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    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

  4. #63
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Small victories!




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  6. #64
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Trying to diagnose my driver side window. I've lubricated the regulator, but that didn't seem to help with the start-stop nature of the window movement. Is this a motor issue? TIA




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    Do you have the engine running and/or have a battery charger on the car during that video?
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  8. #65
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Klink, no I do not have either. It does the same thing when the engine is running, though.


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  10. #66
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Bizzarre...
    Will the window fully descend if you use the "one touch"/click and release down function, or does it stop at some point in its descent if you use that mode?
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  12. #67
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    Bizzarre...
    Will the window fully descend if you use the "one touch"/click and release down function, or does it stop at some point in its descent if you use that mode?
    It works, with the same motion.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Just a thought, but is it possible the regulator is from a smaller glass thickness and the glass is thicker for the later model and this got switched up somehow by a PO along the way? Is this possible, are the regulators specific to the thickness of the glass?
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  14. #69
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Found this handy little tire size calculator. Saving here for future reference.

    http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

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  16. #70
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    Owner - wf758

    Getting some love from the pros at Texas German Autohaus!

    Ready to get her back.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by wf758; 10-22-2016 at 04:24 PM.

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Much easier to change the mounts this way. I know it's pricey but it's done.
    1994 E500
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    1991 560 SEC
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    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  20. #72
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Yep. What else is a "while you are in there?"


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Well ask them not to use rtv on the corners of the seals. They did it on my car and I had it in my pan.

    Oil level sender, pick up and screen. Cam Oilers and guides, cam magnets sealing. Tranny mount, carrier bearing, flex disks oil change.....
    1994 E500
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    1991 560 SEC
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    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  24. #74
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Holy crap. That is all.
    Allgonquin

    Objects in closer are mirror than they appear

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  26. #75
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Finally got her back yesterday. New timing chain, chain tensioner, distributor caps, valve cover gaskets, rebuilt transmission, rear main seal, thermostat, etc. I've got lots of confidence in her now.

    Installed two new intake hoses this afternoon. I'm wiped out after that taxing job.






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  28. #76
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Looks nice, I like the red detailing on the airbox.
    '94 E500 (744) | '94 E500 (199)         Misc. snapshots

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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Whoop
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  32. #78
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Decided to do the gray switch upgrade.

    PN 201 820 21 10

    Haven't figured out how the lining of the trunk removes to install that one. And what about under the hood. What does that switch operate, as I don't see a light under there.

    My wife was politely impressed with the "upgrade."

    1992 500E
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  34. #79
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Any idea why these wires would be disconnected? This is the underside of the hood, where the washer hoses are located?



    Also, this looks like it should be connected to the "light" switch under the hood, but I can't figure out what it is powering and why it would be interrupted by that switch.



    Finally, does anyone know the part number for the gasket that goes around the heater element in the windshield washer reservoir?




    1992 500E
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    The issues unplugged have to do with the heated nozzles of the washer fluid. IMO the washer fluid is hot enough for Texas, just let it be. I took a finger from a nitrile glove and taped them off on my SEC and tucked it away. I will get you the P/N for the heater element with an edit in just a moment.



    124-997-50-81 need 2 [for heater element pipes into the windshield washer reservoir] - NOTE - part # supercedes to: 010-997-13-81

    123-997-36-81 you didn't specify these but common leakers, they are under the little pumps. 2 needed.
    Last edited by nocfn; 11-16-2016 at 07:44 AM. Reason: added part numers
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  38. #81
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    124-997-50-81 need 2 [for heater element pipes into the windshield washer reservoir] - NOTE - part # supercedes to: 010-997-13-81

    123-997-36-81 you didn't specify these but common leakers, they are under the little pumps. 2 needed.
    If there is a leak at the pumps, consider replacing the pumps as well... I've found that half the time, the pumps themselves are leaking, not just the grommets.

    If you're in that far, check the heating coil t-stat (see this post), and you may want to replace the crusty plastic top, lid, & strap while you're in there... 126-869-06-08, 123-869-01-72, and 126-869-02-14 respectively. Cheap stuff.

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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Thanks Dave for the edit
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  42. #83
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    OWNER - wf758

    Happy Thanksgiving to all my 500E Board friends. You guys have been a great community to join, and for that, I am Thankful.


    1992 500E
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    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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  44. #84
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    You too Will!!
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  46. #85
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Got a chance to install the missing ABS sensor cable bracket on the passenger side. I went ahead and replaced driver side too (that part was slightly broken, but still functional). Looks like I'll need to order a new passenger side ABS cable, as the PO's zip tie job ate into the wire. In the meantime, I sealed it up well.

    Before Passenger



    After Passenger


    Part Numbers attached below.

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  47. #86
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    OWNER - wf758

    Just tried to re-fit the after market wheels that came without the car, but without the front 5mm spacers, which were causing the shimmy. Well, the 18x8.5 et35 do NOT fit without spacers. Can someone tell me if 5mm is the correct spacer? Assuming so, what length lug nuts do I need (it looks like PO used same lug nuts for the fronts et35 + 5mm spacer and the backs et38 with no spacer)?

    Setup is:
    front - 18 x 8.5 et 35
    Rear - 18 x 9.5 et 38

    These are the current lugs for the aftermarket wheels (attached photo).

    I'm aware this is a less than ideal setup, but buying hubcentric spacers and proper lug nuts will be cheaper than the four tires I would need to buy for the ugly 16" original wheels, and I don't see a matched set of 17x8.5 et30s available right now.

    Thanks
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  48. #87
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    18x8.5 ET35 should fit no problem, no clearance issues with the struts or fenders. I'm guessing you have clearance issues between the wheel spokes and calipers? That is always a concern with aftermarket wheels not designed specifically for Mercedes. The "correct" spacer would be whatever is required to provide at least a ~2mm air gap between the wheel and caliper.

    The correct lug bolt length would be whatever will provide at least ~5 turns of the threads. Up front they can be longer as there's no clearance issues with long bolts. In the rear if the bolts are too long, they will hit the parking brake shoes/mechanism. For an E500E, if you hold a lug bolt into the wheel and measure how far it sticks out the back side, I believe 18-20mm would be the correct protrusion. If it's longer than 21-22mm the bolt may contact the parking brakes when the wheel is turned; much shorter than 18mm and you may not get adequate threads into the hub. Again, we can't tell you how long the whole lug bolt should be, as each aftermarket wheel is different! That's why you have to measure.

    Also confirm the aftermarket wheels have spherical seats like the OE wheels. Most aftermarket wheels have cone seats. You cannot use spherical bolts with cone seats, or vice-versa. Your photo shows a spherical lug bolt.


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  50. #88
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Posted in the electrical section, but reposting here.

    I've had an intermittent problem since I got the car of the Fuse #3 blowing (8amp). At times, it is fine and all lights are fine. Then it will blow and I'll lose dash lights and right side (passenger) parking lights. I had it in the shop last week, and they couldn't recreate the issue. Of course, on my way home, the fuse blew. It has been VERY wet here for the last few days. When I tried diagnosing the problem (in these very wet conditions), the fuse would blow within seconds of turning on the lights.

    Today, it dried out some (and the car has been parked in the garage, drying off). I can't get the fuse to blow, however, the right front parking light does not come on. The bulb is good, as it works fine as a blinker. But it doesn't come on when I turn on just the passenger side marker lights or when I turn on all of the lights. I'm thinking this must have something to do with my blowing fuse (made worse by moisture?). However, I will note that over the past few days, when the fuse would blow every time, I tried disconnecting the marker light from the circuit, and the fuse would continue to blow. Perhaps there is a short in the wiring to the bulb?

    I'm looking for any suggestions of how to further diagnose/test this issue. I have limited (okay, none) electrical experience, so details are helpful! I do have a multi-meter.

    As always, TIA.

    W


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  51. #89
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    And what about under the hood. What does that switch operate, as I don't see a light under there.


    1992 500E
    Not sure if anyone answered your query about the under-hood switch? If its the one I'm thinking of, then this is part of the burglar alarm system, isn't it? I.e. it sets off the alarm if the hood is raised when the car is locked/alarm set.

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  53. #90
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Still need help with that fuse issue (post #88).

    Anyway, driver door window issue was a failing motor. Replaced and all fine (except for the nicking of the tinting). Caution!


    1992 500E
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  55. #91
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Just tried to re-fit the after market wheels that came without the car, but without the front 5mm spacers, which were causing the shimmy. Well, the 18x8.5 et35 do NOT fit without spacers. Can someone tell me if 5mm is the correct spacer? Assuming so, what length lug nuts do I need (it looks like PO used same lug nuts for the fronts et35 + 5mm spacer and the backs et38 with no spacer)?

    Setup is:
    front - 18 x 8.5 et 35
    Rear - 18 x 9.5 et 38

    These are the current lugs for the aftermarket wheels (attached photo).

    I'm aware this is a less than ideal setup, but buying hubcentric spacers and proper lug nuts will be cheaper than the four tires I would need to buy for the ugly 16" original wheels, and I don't see a matched set of 17x8.5 et30s available right now.

    Thanks
    One important warning note here:
    Many aftermarket wheels or the wheels from newer larger models of Mercedes use the M14x1.5 spherical bolts. If the bolts are spherical bolts, they are mostly Radius 14mm or 28mm in diameter. But the normal M12x1.5 bolts we need for W124s have radius R12 or diameter 24mm. So you need some special and mostly expensive wheel bolts in M12x1.5 radius R14 (D=28mm) these are at least in germany quite rare especially in lengths above 50mm (If you are using high ET wheels from W220/C215, etc and need to get them fit on for instance W124 or W210 you need sometimes 15mm or 20mm spacers!).
    You need to check with the papers that are available for your wheel to see what bolts they do recommend. Please NEVER use wrong diameter spherical bolts on aluminum wheels. This will not provide the proper adhesion to the hub, will kill the seat in the wheels and will mostly even crack the wheels at the seats.
    Same goes for conical wheel bolts.
    Christian K.
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  57. #92
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    OWNER - wf758

    Replacing upper pull mechanism on driver door (PN 124 723 02) as PO bent the original somehow?! Looks like I'll have to do passenger door too. Getting everything out is a PIA, but Pelican has some decent instructions. 500E has a shield (white plastic) that requires you to remove the outside door handle mechanism before you can pull everything out. It is really a puzzle.

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  59. #93
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    While I'm in the door, I need help with two part numbers. Specifically looking for the plastic/rubber trim ring that fills the lock mechanism. Also looking for the bracket that holds interior locking rod mechanism in place. See pics below. Thanks!

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  60. #94
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Does anyone rebuild these? I've now replaced driver side motor. This is the old one, which slows down every full rotation or so. Hate to just trash...


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  61. #95
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Replacing upper pull mechanism on driver door (PN 124 723 02) as PO bent the original somehow?! Looks like I'll have to do passenger door too. Getting everything out is a PIA, but Pelican has some decent instructions. 500E has a shield (white plastic) that requires you to remove the outside door handle mechanism before you can pull everything out. It is really a puzzle.

    1992 500E
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    My driver's door lock rod was also bent when I took delivery of the car --- I just bent it back and everything has been fine since. Good to know to follow the pelican tips just in case.
    ---
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    1993 MB 500E
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  63. #96
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    The motors can be had for around $100 bucks. I ended up having a similar issue years ago and replaced a motor as well.

    I'd round file it.
    1993 400E on EVO2's

  64. #97
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlaa View Post
    My driver's door lock rod was also bent when I took delivery of the car --- I just bent it back and everything has been fine since. Good to know to follow the pelican tips just in case.
    Yeah. I bent it back, but already had parts and already had door apart to replace window motor. So, the OCD got me!

    Here is the Pelican link, if anyone is searching. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm




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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Actually, they can be cleaned but you have to drill out the rivets clean and re lube the internals
    1994 E500
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    1991 560 SEC
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    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  67. #99
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    While I'm in the door, I need help with two part numbers. Specifically looking for the plastic/rubber trim ring that fills the lock mechanism. Also looking for the bracket that holds interior locking rod mechanism in place. See pics below. Thanks!

    1992 500E
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    1993 MB 500E
    1996 Porsche 993 C2

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  69. #100
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Working on replacing the antenna grommet today. Just pulled back the trunk trim. What does this go to?!


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  70. #101
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    That connector is for the factory analog cell phone handset that goes inside the flip-top armrest. The cars were all pre-wired for the phones even if the dealer did not install the phone system.

    Dave M.
    1997 E420 (Bugeyes)
    1994 E420 (Blondie)
    1994 E500 (Q-ship)
    1992 500E (Mach 5)
    1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
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  72. #102
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    OWNER - wf758

    Mileage: 87,631

    After a long month, got the 500E back from the shop. Decided to do an antenna delete, instead of finding parts for an aftermarket antenna. In its place, installed the Hirschmann fm/GSM rear bumper antenna from the SLK R170 with antenna amplifier. Part numbers were: A1708200089 and A1708200075.

    I like the look!




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    Last edited by wf758; 04-28-2017 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Added part numbers
    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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  74. #103
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Very nice. I deleted the antenna on the high miler when I painted it a couple years ago. How do you like the R170 antenna? Good reception?
    '94 E500 (744) | '94 E500 (199)         Misc. snapshots

  75. #104
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by Glen View Post
    Very nice. I deleted the antenna on the high miler when I painted it a couple years ago. How do you like the R170 antenna? Good reception?
    Works, okay, but frankly...not great. In town, I've got pretty good reception. Was not the case once I got out to the burbs.
    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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  77. #105
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Reference

    Check and Reset DM: Find the 16 pin diagnostic plug near the battery, turn the ignition on, warning lights on, car on running, push the button down for 3-4 seconds (LED will come on), release the button, count the number of flashes, do it again until the same number of flashes comes up again. To delete code hold button down for 8-10 seconds, release, turn car off/on, repeat for next code.
    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

  78. #106
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    She got new shoes and a bath today, so here are a couple of photos.

    88,191 miles


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  80. #107
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Yesterday, I switched out the factory Brembos due to a resonating noise (see this thread: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11222) coming from the right side after sustained periods of speed for some factory 300x28mm ATE calipers that I picked up from @gsxr. This was the right fix, as one of the pads on the right side was really worn. Obviously, I put in some new brake pads (Akebono EUR 561 Euros). Leaving it better than I found it, the passenger pads didn't have the two wear sensors on, so now I've got all four sensors in place.

    While in there, I also replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings on both wheels. No rust was inside, but the grease had hardened inside the cap and the grease near the actual bearings was pretty black.

    Glad to get this job out of the way.

    88,928 miles
    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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  82. #108
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    Today, I finally got around to changing out the Base Module in my car. I picked a used one up from a member here. I've been having a problem on VERY hot and humid days (>92) where the AC will stop blowing cold air after the car is turned off and restarted while still warm, or if I drive somewhat aggressively, it will kick off (air still blows, but no longer conditioned/cold). From some research here, it seems like the BM is the likely culprit.

    I haven't had any problems in the last two weeks, but the temps have been pretty mild since Harvey hit our fair city. Temps supposed to warm up over next few days, so it should be a good test. All worked well when I tested it tonight. New one on top with 3 fuses instead of 4. Honch said it should work.

    The 500E has gotten a little love in last two days. In addition to the BM, I also replaced the driver side visor (mirror cover on old one just swung when hanging) and also a new triangle trim piece over the driver side mirror control arm (all tabs intact!). These are Harvey rescues that I picked up from a guy whose 300E was swamped in Harvey. The good news is, parts of his car roll on.

    Depressing pics of the 1990 300E donor car [for visor & triangle trim] attached.

    Mileage 90,662


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  84. #109
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    Re: OWNER - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Today, I finally got around to changing out the Base Module in my car. I picked a used one up from a member here. I've been having a problem on VERY hot and humid days (>92) where the AC will stop blowing cold air after the car is turned off and restarted while still warm, or if I drive somewhat aggressively, it will kick off (air still blows, but no longer conditioned/cold). From some research here, it seems like the BM is the likely culprit.
    Thanks!! I'm chasing after a similar issue (AC stops blowing conditioned air when car is hot or restarted when warm) but I'm not sure if my issue is with the base module ---- I need to replace the upper wiring harness first and get everything "right" first and see how it goes. Now I know I might need to look @ a base module.
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    1993 MB 500E
    1996 Porsche 993 C2

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