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Thread: OWNER - wf758

  1. #1
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    OWNER - wf758

    A few of you may have seen my recent posts in the For Sale section as I've been looking for a 500E. I wound up purchasing the one recently listed on Bring A Trailer.

    I drove it home to Houston yesterday, and I'm pretty happy with it.

    Here are the requisite pictures, though you'll forgive the rain.




    My Quick Reference:
    Wheel Bolt Torques - 80 ft.lb. (110 Nm)
    Last edited by wf758; 12-03-2016 at 09:35 AM. Reason: adding some quick references for future

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  3. #2
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Owner - wf758

    So, the things I need to work on (any pointers would be appreciated).

    UPDATED - SEP 27, 2016

    1) passenger side parking light (bulb looks good) - Fuse 3 is busted. Will replace fuses and then troubleshoot. Resolved
    2) passenger side front parking light (I believe it is same bulb as turn signal, which works fine??) - Fuse 3 is busted. Will replace fuses and then troubleshoot. Resolved.
    3) passenger side rear fog light (there is no metal in the housing for the base of the bulb...is only the driver side supposed to work?) - sounds like this is a non-issue! Non-issue
    4) A/C blows nice and cold when under load. However, when at a stop light, it doesn't seem to maintain the proper temp. - system recharged. Resolved
    5) shudder in front suspension above 55mph. I think the wheels must not be true. Car came with originals also, so I'll mount them up and test. Took off the spacers, which resolved the issue.
    6) instrument cluster lights (all dash lights) failed the first time I turned on the headlights (worked for a few seconds, then went dark) - I tried twisting the dimmer to no avail. Think I read there is a fuse behind the gauge cluster? Will have to figure out how to get to that. Resolved with fuse replacement.
    7) cruise control will only stay engaged for a minute or two - need to check if improper tire sizes causing that issue. How do I calculate? Resolved
    8) need to fix leather on front door panel pockets
    9) need to fix leather on front center console. Replaced
    10) need to refinish the wood on lower front console - in contact with Madera.
    11) need to repair front passenger window (inoperable)
    12) replace window lock button (top/button came off. Replacement on order) - done
    13) rear shade only goes up about half way (hoping it just needs lubrication)
    14) speedo hangs at 78mph (won't go above and then snaps back down once fall to 75)
    15) wiper fluid light was on. Refilled, only to find wiper fluid all over the floor next morning. Definitely saw it leaking out of the passenger side hose to the headlamp washer. But based on where the fluid was on the floor, I think there are other leaks. This could also be cause of my blown #3 fuse. - resolved
    16) Upgrade/replace all fuses. - done
    17) Refresh contact points on all bulbs, and use connection lube.
    18) Upgrade all bulbs to Osram.
    19) ?Leaking coolant? - you may have noticed when I saw the car at dealer, I thought it had a small coolant leak. Based on item 15 above, I think it was actually a leak from the windshield washer system. (I think that is good news. It looks like the hose to the overflow tank had already been upgraded). Color was similar green to the coolant (I think I've read I a should have gold coolant...so that goes on the list). So, I need to figure out if the coolant is flowing into the windshield reservoir, or if it was just green windshield washer fluid. - resolved
    20) Flush coolant system with proper fluid. - done with top end work
    21) lubed driver door check strap -done
    22) replaced driver side mirror boot - done (both sides)
    23) replaced failing temp gauge - done

    I'm thinking these are mostly minor things that will hopefully be easy to remedy. I plan on using as a daily driver if I develop sufficient confidence in it.

    The drive from Austin to Houston was uneventful.




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    Last edited by wf758; 5 Days Ago at 04:13 PM. Reason: updating status on items
    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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  5. #3
    Senior Member Allgonquin's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Howdy WF, congrats on your purchase. Car looks great!

    Bulb issues are often related to the socket and or bulb base, either of which can need burnishing to remove corrosion. The tail light assembly comes out of the car easily - but I know on my car I have one bulb which tends to go out even though the bulb is fine and I've done everything to ensure a good connection, etc. Just finicky it seems. AC could be low refrigerant, have it leak checked - unfortunately another weak point on the W124 is the AC evaporator which will eventually leak. Regarding wood refinishing if you search the board there is a well known refinisher whose name escapes. Front window could be motor or regulator/linkage. (or switch I guess) Plastic linkage parts tend to get crispy at this age. You can buy a (horrors!) chicom regulator with motor on eBay for small money, I used one on my diesel and it worked fine for years. Pulling the door panel must be done carefully but there are many DIY's on line. Pull up, not out.... Can't help on other stuff, but I'm sure others can.
    Allgonquin

    Objects in closer are mirror than they appear

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  7. #4
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Congrats of your purchase & welcome! As for point 6- try twisting the dimmer dial which is located at the instrument cluster glass screen. Twist it back & forth a few times and illumination should be restored. It's common for them to corrode and flicker the instrument lighting.

    On my car I replaced every single bulb with new Osram and used electrical contact cleaner & a scotch pad to clean each lamp holder. All lamps burn bright now and should be trouble free for years.

    Take a a look through the excellent resources on this forum- like the wiki & DIY sections. It's important to establish a good electrical base line on these cars before delving into issues like your cruise fault. First fit all new copper ceramic flosser Fuses again cleaning the contacts before install. Then check the build dates of your upper + lower engine wiring harnesses + throttle body build date. The wiki has all info on this.

    For the A/C I would first take the car to a specialist shop and have the old refrigerant sucked out & new Oil / refrigerant added to the correct levels. Cheap to do & will prolong the life of the system. It could well just be a little low on gas. I know when mine was recharged as above the A/C works like a new Benz and it only cost £45 to have done.

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    E500 n00b nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Welcome fellow Houstonian! Check your pm.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Congrats on your purchase! Here's a few comments on your list:

    #3 - yes, rear fog is only 1 side, this is normal
    #4 - poor AC at idle is likely either low charge, or the electric fans not running, or both
    #5 - get the wheels Road Force balanced. This will also check if the wheels are straight.
    #6 - twiddle the adjustment knob back & forth a few dozen times, see if that helps
    #7 - if front & rear tire size are more than 2-3% different, cruise won't work right. Check that first.
    #10 - send wood to Madera Concepts for refinishing. Consider sending all of it so it matches.
    #13 - rear roller blind is a PITA. Get it fully retracted and disconnect the switch. Not worth fixing.
    #14 - probably need to send the speedo to a VDO repair shop


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    E500E Guru maw1124's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    +1 on all, especially #13, which is what I've always been told. I'll likely fix it anyway, but it's definitely last on the (ever shortening) list.

    Welcome and congrats!

    maw

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  15. #8
    Senior Member Glasgo_Chris's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Another Houston chapter member, congrats on the purchase! Would love to see your 500e sometime....as well as that 964 I see tucked away next to it!

    -Chris

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  17. #9
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    You guys seem like a great group. Many thanks for the warm welcome and helpful hints. I'm looking forward to finding some time to tinker and get some things fixed. For now, I'm mostly just figuring out what all needs to go on the list. I'll update the list/findings in my original post (for anyone interested).

    @Allgonquin - thanks for the useful notes. I'll have to put a "clean bulb connections" on my list. I did notice the number 3 fuse is burned out, so that explains why the passenger side isn't working. I've got some quality fuses on order, so once they come in, I'll troubleshoot that (more below). The AC will definitely have to go to a specialist. That is not a part I want to troubleshoot (based on my 1989 Porsche, German ACs from this era aren't the best. With that said, the Merc cools great under load). I'm already in contact with Jeff at Madera on the wood trim (has anyone ever refinished their wood in a new look? I'm thinking about piano black or possibly a matte-look black instead of the high gloss). I guess when I pull the wood trim, I'll test the window switch, before then moving to the regulator inside the passenger door.

    @JC220 - another helpful post, thanks. I've tried twisting the dimmer (am I correct to assume the dimmer is the same button used to reset the trip odo?). So far, no luck on that... In addition to the "clean bulb connections", I'll add a "bulb upgrade" to the list. I've already found the DIY to be extremely helpful. As mentioned above, I have the fuses on order. I'll change out all the existing fuses with the quality ones. Through the DIY, I found that the headlight washers could be part of my problem. Looking forward to troubleshooting that (more on that to come). I did check the build on my Upper Harness, and I think it was 2010, so all good there. I have not checked the other two, but will research where to find those as you suggest. Check on the AC.

    @gsxr- nice and to the point...great! Regarding the fog light: so, do Euro-spec cars have both lights fitted? Glad to know I don't have some strange part in my car, but I was really surprised to see the bulb in place, but no connection point underneath it. I guess it just served as a spare! I'll get the AC looked at. I'm also going to put the original 8-holes (sorry, I'm probably not using correct MB term for that) on to see how they drive? If that resolves the problem, then I'll figure out if the 18" wheels (which I kind of like, but I know many don't, including my 13 year old son) have an issue. Good to know on the tire size differential. The 18s are staggered. How do I measure the differential? Per above, I've tried twisting the dimmer (assuming I'm twisting correct knob), but I'll try some more. Think I read somewhere on here about a fuse that is behind the gauges. Could that be my problem? Is there a DIY on gauge removal (I didn't see it in a quick search, but I'm working on an iDevice, so maybe I missed it). As mentioned above, I'm in contact with Madera. The rear blind does fully retract, but interestingly, it sounds like it wants to continue retracting when fully restracted. Does that indicate the motor is "confused" with the actual positioning of the blind? Any way to reset? With that said...agreed, it is LONG down the list of items. Yeah, I'll have to figure out the speedo. Fortunately, it is fully functional for all my daily driving needs.

    @nocfn - thanks for the PM. Nice to have nice local people to be in contact with. Look forward to meeting up.

    @maw1124 - Thanks. Agreed that the blind can wait, but the OCD nature does want it fixed...

    @Glasgo_Chris - You've got a keen eye. My 964 is my first "auto" love. It is in a pretty quality state. AC has a leak that I've got to get figured out and/or make some major investment in the AC system' but otherwise it seems to be running well these days. Looking forward to having the same confidence in my 500E.

    You all have been very helpful. Thanks for sharing your collective wisdom. Can't wait to meet the locals and look forward to continuing to banter about with the rest of you.

  18. #10
    E500 n00b nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    You can try the shop on edloe and 59, Hans Richter they do great work. Also, my wood is piano black.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  20. #11
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    @gsxr- nice and to the point...great! Regarding the fog light: so, do Euro-spec cars have both lights fitted? Glad to know I don't have some strange part in my car, but I was really surprised to see the bulb in place, but no connection point underneath it. I guess it just served as a spare! I'll get the AC looked at. I'm also going to put the original 8-holes (sorry, I'm probably not using correct MB term for that) on to see how they drive? If that resolves the problem, then I'll figure out if the 18" wheels (which I kind of like, but I know many don't, including my 13 year old son) have an issue. Good to know on the tire size differential. The 18s are staggered. How do I measure the differential? Per above, I've tried twisting the dimmer (assuming I'm twisting correct knob), but I'll try some more. Think I read somewhere on here about a fuse that is behind the gauges. Could that be my problem? Is there a DIY on gauge removal (I didn't see it in a quick search, but I'm working on an iDevice, so maybe I missed it). As mentioned above, I'm in contact with Madera. The rear blind does fully retract, but interestingly, it sounds like it wants to continue retracting when fully restracted. Does that indicate the motor is "confused" with the actual positioning of the blind? Any way to reset? With that said...agreed, it is LONG down the list of items. Yeah, I'll have to figure out the speedo. Fortunately, it is fully functional for all my daily driving needs.
    All 124's only have one rear fog. If you had two, they would look like brake lights. It's a single bulb by design.

    Pop on the stock 8-hole wheels/tires and see how they work; hopefully they are straight and well balanced! Staggered wheels aren't an issue, diameter is what can cause cruise to act up. Post the exact tire size you have front & rear for the 18's.

    The fuse in the cluster is not for the illumination, IIRC. Next most likely is a failed dimmer potentiometer - easy to check with a meter, after pulling the cluster out. If there isn't a DIY gauge removal on this forum, there should be on another MB forum. Pulls straight out with a pair of hooks, then you unplug everything. Extend the steering wheel first to make room.

    The usual failure on the roller blind is a clicking noise when it's almost closed. Have someone gently "help" it all the way down as you twiddle the switch. Then just leave it down. The rear headrests won't drop if the blind isn't fully retracted (and, only drop when the engine is running - needs vacuum). If the headrests are down now, leave 'em there until you get the roller blind retracted or you'll end up with a new problem!


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    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Is anyone able to pull the datacard on my car? VIN wdbea36exnb757358. Many thanks in advance.

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    E500 n00b nocfn's Avatar
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    Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Is anyone able to pull the datacard on my car? VIN wdbea36exnb757358. Many thanks in advance.
    Pm me an email and l will send it to you.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    I'm putting the 16" 8 holes back on to test the 55mph+ shudder. I noticed there are H&R spacers on the hubs. Is it okay to leave these on?


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    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

  26. #15
    500E Terminus Illuminatus DerFuror's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Remove the spacers if going back to stock wheels. The spacers were necessary to adjust the non-stock wheels ET.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    E500E Guru sheward's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Be aware when re-mounting the stock wheels that when you remove the spacers,(recommended for diagnosing the imbalance issue)the lug bolts may well be too long. This is critical on the rear axle as the extra length will contact the parking brake assembly. Also, nearly all aftermarket wheels use a conical seat lug bolt and the Mercedes wheels require a spherical seat lug bolt.

    drew
    Drew
    92 500e 58,500 miles
    92 500e 180,000+ miles
    93 500e 179,000 miles sold
    92 500e 110,000 miles sold

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  30. #17
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    A few updates.

    1) I replaced the blown fuse and a burnt out light bulb. Seems like all working, including the dash lights!

    2) Put my stock wheels on (16" 8-holes) in exchange of the 18s. That did not get rid of the shudder above 55mph. I didn't see the comment about removing the spacers, but I've at least confirmed it isn't an issue with the aftermarket wheels (although that seems like it would be an easier fix). Still have to figure this out.

    3) while in the front passenger side wheel well, I noticed a wire is chafing. Is this a brake pad sensor line?


    4) I'm missing a screw to the driver side panel below the headlight. Based on passenger side, it is an 8mm bolt with a 16mm screw. Anyone know where I can track these down (didn't find at auto parts store or Home Depot)


    5) I don't think my windshield washer reservoir is the leak. It appears to be leaking out of the headlight sprayers. Does the reservoir need to be in a vacuum? Looks like I'm missing the seals around the heater element.


    6) how are people reattaching the wood trim to the ashtray? I can't believe this stuff is stapled! My staples have come loose.

    7) for those who followed the For Sale thread, you'll recall I made note of the dealer pointing out a leak of coolant. I think he had to fess up as it dripped while I was there (though I'm still not sure that is what it was). Anyway, opening up the fog light access panel on the passenger side, I found they had stuffed a blue towel in there to absorb stuff. Hmmm...


    8) what is the Hydraulic Fluid reservoir next to the washer fluid reservoir? I think the braided line coming out of it is rotten and leaking. Is this for the rear suspension? I can't really find anything about it in the owners manual.

    Thanks for reading and any suggestions you might have for me.




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    1989 Carrera 4
    1992 500E

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    3. I believe one line is brake pad sensor, the other abs sensor, but I defer to the experts.

    4. I usually stock up on fasteners each time I go to a local junkyard, including hose clamps, nuts, bolts, washers, etc.

    5. Not under pressure or vacuum. Yes, heating elements pass through rubber grommets.

    8. Reservoir for rear SLS system. Braided hose is still available from MB, (by the meter).
    Last edited by vatc5637; 09-11-2016 at 11:28 PM.

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    It sounds like the spacers on your car are the bolt on variety. It's possible they are conversion spacers and they could have an Audi or Volkswagen inner hub diameter which could cause problems. Check this when you get around to removing them. The chafing wire is for the brake pad sensor or ABS sensor. The 8mm bolt holds the wiper panel on and is used on all 124 cars. You should be able to match it at a better hardware store since it is not a machine thread. The hydraulic reservoir is indeed for your rear SLS system and supplies the tandem power steering/SLS pump with fluid. You are missing the grommets around the washer heater lines. The more experienced here will be better able to help with the coolant leak issue.

    drew
    Drew
    92 500e 58,500 miles
    92 500e 180,000+ miles
    93 500e 179,000 miles sold
    92 500e 110,000 miles sold

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    I still agree that your shimmy is almost going to be the spacers. Tie rods, etc and alignment. Some of this you can zip tie until you get proper bolts. Careful with those rubber grommets for the reservoir. When you go to change them out make sure the car is cool, as coolant will most likely come out of the hoses and make a mess, but also burn you. Get some shop rags ready when you replace them. You should also consider new reservoir washer pump gaskets too for the pumps forward and low on the reservoir, a common leak point. Lastly, consider plugging the inboard pump line to the headlights, the use of the washer there is next to never. As for the SLS braided hose, its not cheap but a meter will do bot the return from the pump side to the cooler, and the cooler to the reservoir. Make them a bit longer (like 3/4") for slack and shrinkage.
    Last edited by nocfn; 09-11-2016 at 06:22 AM. Reason: hose length reads 3/4" extra length
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    500E Terminus Illuminatus DerFuror's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    7. the blue towel could likely be absorbing the SLS fluid leaking from 8 (instead of coolant).
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  39. #22
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    You guys are great. Thanks!

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    The wires (for wheel speed, and brake pad wear sensors) should not be Zip-tied to the strut. If the correct plastic brackets are missing, they should be cheap to replace to properly route the wires.


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  42. #24
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    a zip tie to the others with some slack is fine if you order them (to prevent the chaffing) and still need to drive the car. It is never a permanent fix IMO.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

  43. #25
    Senior Member wf758's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    The wires (for wheel speed, and brake pad wear sensors) should not be Zip-tied to the strut. If the correct plastic brackets are missing, they should be cheap to replace to properly route the wires.
    @gsxr...do you know the part numbers for the plastic brackets? Looks like I'm missing them on both sides. TIA

  44. #26
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    I believe they are 124-546-16-43 and 124-546-17-43, $5.50 MSRP each.


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  46. #27
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    @gsxr, thanks for that. I think those are the PNs for the rear. Although that put me on to the fronts, which I believe are 124-546-14-43 and 124-546-15-43. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

    On a separate note, I'm definitely hearing some ticking (or maybe I'm paranoid from too much time on this site!). Anyway, a peek inside the oil filler cap looks like I already have the metal cam oiler tubes. You guys agree from this photo?



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    1992 500E

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    I agree! But that doesn't change the ticking. What type of oil are you running and have you records etc... from the p/o
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Nope, 124-546-16-43 and 124-546-17-43 are for the front struts. Click here for some pictures.

    124-546-14-43 and 124-546-15-43 are different brackets, not sure exactly where those fit.

    That is a metal oil tube in your photo... since your car is a 1992 it probably has all 16 tubes. Any chance you can post a video/audio clip of the ticking noise?


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Okay. Thanks for confirming.

    Here are two videos. First one is under the hood, where it isn't so much a ticking, but doesn't sound right. The second is the ticking, but can be heard outside the car, more underneath and to the rear on both sides of the car.




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  50. #31
    E500 n00b nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Sounds like more investigation needed for sure. I hear the fuel pump buzz in back and that's normal. Something sounds metallic to me. But is it under the valve cover or is it more in the pulley area. Any records on the flex disk replacement? Is the fan clearing the shroud? Does it go away ever or just 90 seconds at start up?
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    I'll inspect it closer and give an update. I didn't notice the ticking until my wife drove it, and I heard it as she drove off.

    The detailed records alluded to in the listing "can't be located." They are still looking for them, so hopefully I'll get some more insight.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    After warming up, no ticking in the rear and the cantankerous sound under the hood is gone.




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  53. #34
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Do you have a mechanic stethoscope? I wonder if you can isolate the sound (careful of the fan and moving parts) with the tip of the stethoscope on the housing of the air pump, alternator and also the valve covers to isolate a bank producing the noise.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Under the hood is NOT right. Disconnect the serpentine belt first and if the noise goes away, it's a belt-driven item. If not, listen closely at the front of the valve covers. If it's coming from the valve covers, stop driving it, and pull the covers for inspection. Almost sounds like timing chain rubbing against the covers, which is really bad juju. Hopefully it's just something like the smog air pump.

    The rear ticking noise is weird, I can't quite place that one...

    Klink?


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    My diagnostic skills are covered in cobwebs but the underhood noise has the frequency of one of the belt driven items, i.e.alternator, smog pump, water pump. Sounds like a bearing drying out. Given the low probability of an internal engine issue the other noise could be an exhaust leak.

    drew
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    92 500e 180,000+ miles
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Asking if it ended after warm up made me think then ever useless airpump clutch was bitching.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  61. #38
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post

    Pop on the stock 8-hole wheels/tires and see how they work; hopefully they are straight and well balanced! Staggered wheels aren't an issue, diameter is what can cause cruise to act up. Post the exact tire size you have front & rear for the 18's.

    Got around to pulling off the Spacers today. I will take it out for another drive to see what that did for the shudder. In the meantime, the 18" setup was:

    Continental Extreme Contact DWs
    245/40 ZR 18 97 Y Wheel Offset 35 with an H&R 5mm Spacer (H&R 1055665)
    265/35 ZR 18 97 Y Wheel Offset 38

    I really like the setup (compared to the 8 holes).

    Once traffic dies down, I'll try to go test the cruise control and the shudder now that I've got the 8 holes on AND the spacer removed (yes, I'm using original studs now too).

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Shudder is gone! But I'm confused, according to the H&R website, those should be the proper spacers for my car...

    Anyway, that problem appears fixed. If anyone has pointers on how I can use my 18" wheels, let me know. I know not all like them, but I really liked the look on the car.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    The problem is likely with the design of the 5mm spacers. That thickness does not allow for a proper hub centering on the wheel side. Assuming the width of the front wheels is 9" you should be able to run that setup without the spacers. I have. A 3mm which is thinner than the hubs actual centering thickness will work and allow the wheel to center onto the hub itself if need be. Any interference would be at the top of the inner wheel to the strut. If the front wheels are 8.5 wide or narrower you will have no problems. Do not use the 5mm. Additional problems can also be had when trying to use wheels that need centering rings. Even more so with spacers.

    drew
    Last edited by sheward; 09-15-2016 at 11:19 PM.
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    92 500e 58,500 miles
    92 500e 180,000+ miles
    93 500e 179,000 miles sold
    92 500e 110,000 miles sold

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  66. #41
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by sheward View Post
    The problem is likely with the design of the 5mm spacers. That thickness does not allow for a proper hub centering on the wheel side. Assuming the width of the front wheels is 9" you should be able to run that setup without the spacers. I have. A 3mm which is thinner than the hubs actual centering thickness will work and allow the wheel to center onto the hub itself if need be. Any interference would be at the top of the inner wheel to the strut. If the front wheels are 8.5 wide or narrower you will have no problems. Do not use the 5mm. Additional problems can also be had when trying to use wheels that need centering rings. Even more so with spacers.

    drew
    Thanks Drew.

    Fronts are 18x8.5" (35mm offset) and rears are 18x9" (38mm offset). You think I'm good without spacers on that setup?


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    The 18's will work fine without spacers. The spacers were added for appearance only.

    The tire sizes are off, rears are smaller by ~1.6% compared to the fronts. You may find that cruise control works at 25-30mph, but not above a certain speed (say, 50-60mph). If cruise works with the 18's at ~25mph then you'd need to get the correct tire sizes on the 18" wheels. Another side effect to be aware of is that if the rear tires are smaller diameter than fronts, this can cause unwanted ASR interference. But, first try the 18's without spacers and see if they are smooth or not.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Yes, the fronts are fine. You did not mention any spacers on the rear which should be fine however a more correct et for the 9"wheel would be in the 26 - 34 range. You could run a 10mm spacer on the rear but I would try to avoid it. Using them requires careful consideration. BTW... congratulations on the purchase.

    drew
    Drew
    92 500e 58,500 miles
    92 500e 180,000+ miles
    93 500e 179,000 miles sold
    92 500e 110,000 miles sold

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  72. #44
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by sheward View Post
    Yes, the fronts are fine. You did not mention any spacers on the rear which should be fine however a more correct et for the 9"wheel would be in the 26 - 34 range. You could run a 10mm spacer on the rear but I would try to avoid it. Using them requires careful consideration. BTW... congratulations on the purchase.

    drew
    Thanks. I'm enjoying it so far. Getting this issue, some engine noise, and a few cosmetics items resolved, and I think I'm going to love it. Appreciate the help.


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  73. #45
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    The 18's will work fine without spacers. The spacers were added for appearance only.

    The tire sizes are off, rears are smaller by ~1.6% compared to the fronts. You may find that cruise control works at 25-30mph, but not above a certain speed (say, 50-60mph). If cruise works with the 18's at ~25mph then you'd need to get the correct tire sizes on the 18" wheels. Another side effect to be aware of is that if the rear tires are smaller diameter than fronts, this can cause unwanted ASR interference. But, first try the 18's without spacers and see if they are smooth or not.

    Thanks @gsxr. In your opinion, am I better suited to change front or rear tires, and to what size? Current ones are practically brand new, so now is the time.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by wf758 View Post
    Thanks @gsxr. In your opinion, am I better suited to change front or rear tires, and to what size? Current ones are practically brand new, so now is the time.
    Before you do anything...

    1) Verify that the cruise control works at all (legal) speed with the stock wheels/tires
    2) Verify that the 18" wheels are smooth without spacers
    3) Verify that you want to keep the current 18" wheels with non-aggressive offsets, as they won't fill out the fenders as much
    4) At that point I would increase rear size to 275/35/18 which is closer to the correct diameter/circumference for the 500E.

    Another option is to find similar style OE AMG wheels with lower offsets, for example these 219 chassis CLS wheels on my wife's 500E (See attached pics)... 8.5/9.5 staggered, ET25/28 respectively.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  76. #47
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Before you do anything...

    1) Verify that the cruise control works at all (legal) speed with the stock wheels/tires
    2) Verify that the 18" wheels are smooth without spacers
    3) Verify that you want to keep the current 18" wheels with non-aggressive offsets, as they won't fill out the fenders as much
    4) At that point I would increase rear size to 275/35/18 which is closer to the correct diameter/circumference for the 500E.

    Another option is to find similar style OE AMG wheels with lower offsets, for example these 219 chassis CLS wheels on my wife's 500E (See attached pics)... 8.5/9.5 staggered, ET25/28 respectively.
    Gotta love that rubber on the back bumper!


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    1992 500E

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  78. #48
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Did you get engine noise settled?
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    Did you get engine noise settled?
    No. I've decided that is likely beyond my capabilities! Going to get a shop to assess.


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  82. #50
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    TGA on Edloe?
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  84. #51
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Can go there. Was also thinking about Eurocar Werk that usually works on my 911.


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  85. #52
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    F]If they are familiar with the 124.046 go where you are comfortable. TGA owner serviced my car before I bought it and Hans has IIRC a 93 E500.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  87. #53
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Looks like cruise control is functional with my 16" wheels in place. As you suggested @gsxr, the former owner's mis-sized tires must have been the culprit.

    Meanwhile, fixing a couple of stars in the windshield.

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  89. #54
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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Also decided to tackle GerryVZ's DIY on lubing door check strap (both fronts have the groan of death). Ran into issue on driver door that I could t unscrew lock mechanism. I wound up cutting the plastic part off. Now that I'm in there, it looks like the upper pull mechanism is slightly twisted and bent where lock knob screws in. Is that pull mechanism (not the knob) available as a replacement part, or do I need to buy an entire assembly?




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    Re: Owner - wf758

    You should be able to carefully bend that straight using pliers. If it breaks, then you'd need to replace whatever it's attached to. The rod does appear to be available separately, p/n 124-723-02-39, under two bucks MSRP. Plastic knob should be p/n 110-760-05-65 at three bucks MSRP.

    Be careful when putting everything back together; glue the plastic vapor barrier in place as needed, and when installing the door panel make sure EVERY plastic hook is inserted in the door holes before sliding the door panel down into place. If you've never done this before it may take several attempts. Feel around the edges to confirm the panel is flush against the metal. Also check if any plastic hooks on the panel are broken off, if so try to find the busted piece inside the door and use plastic bonder/epoxy to repair before re-assembling.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Thanks @gsxr.

    It looks like I have all plastic hooks, but I did find these 4 pieces when I pulled the door apart. Can't really determine what they came off of.

    Any particular product you recommend to glue the vapor barrier back down?



    Thanks


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    The broken pieces are from the bottom of the armrest - the flat black tabs poke through slots on the door pocket, the white clips lock the armrest to the pocket. VERY common for these to break off. You can try to use long screws & wide washers through the slot to patch it up; or just leave it alone. The door pocket will be a little loose when it's not attached to the armrest. Only other fix is to buy a new armrest, if they are still available.

    Rubber cement or similar adhesive should work for the vapor barrier. 3M spray adhesive also works but be careful not to overspray anything. The barrier doesn't need to be superglued on, but it should be enough to hold it in place without any edges flopping while you try to put the door panel back on. The vapor barrier up front should also have a ~3mm thick felt applied for noise damping (rear doors don't have this).

    OH - almost forgot! The wood trim nuts, remove & apply a drop of blue Loc-Tite, and make sure they are all snug. Those buggers tend to loosen up and rattle.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    With your guidance, I see exactly where they broke off. Thanks. Funny, as I had just noticed a minor squeak in that area. Diagnosed!

    Moisture barrier has the felt. So looking good there. I'll be sure and seal it well when I button everything up.

    I've noticed my driver window kind of "cycles" it's way down. I lubed the regulator gearing while there, hoping that helps.

    I'll tend to the trim nuts while I'm in here. Also putting protectant on all the rubber/plastic I come across.

    I did complete the check strap repair, and the grinding is gone! Small victories.

    I continue to be appreciative of all the help and guidance.


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    Re: Owner - wf758

    RE: Owner-wf758

    +1 on gsxr's comments on replacing the door panel. Here's a couple more 'hints' that I've found helpful. When you first position the panel against the door shell slide the panel over the locking rod and reinstall the locking knob a couple of turns. This will prevent the rod from popping out of its hole as you maneuver the panel into position. You also must make sure the metal edge on the top of the panel is flush against the window weather stripping and will be captured by the 3 metal clips protruding from said weather stripping when you move the panel into its final position. Also don't forget to feed the courtesy light wires thru the cut out in the panel bottom before replacing the panel.


    Regards,

    Peter Weissman

    94 E320

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    Re: Owner - wf758

    Trying to diagnose my driver side window. I've lubricated the regulator, but that didn't seem to help with the start-stop nature of the window movement. Is this a motor issue? TIA




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