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Thread: OWNER - jlaa

  1. #121
    Senior Member ZombieBranz's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    funny....I just drove thru Carlsbad and stayed over in Thousand Oaks before heading back up home. Traffic in LA is just awful. San Diego to Thousand Oaks took me 4.5 hours...left at noon....but I did get my fill of Fish Tacos in San Diego...I prefer the socal style of mexican food to the stuff up here. Jlaa the trunk paint came out nice are you happy with it?
    1971 Porsche 911E
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  3. #122
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Quote Originally Posted by ZombieBranz View Post
    funny....I just drove thru Carlsbad and stayed over in Thousand Oaks before heading back up home. Traffic in LA is just awful. San Diego to Thousand Oaks took me 4.5 hours...left at noon....but I did get my fill of Fish Tacos in San Diego...I prefer the socal style of mexican food to the stuff up here. Jlaa the trunk paint came out nice are you happy with it?
    
    There must be some strange spatial awareness that ties us all! Indeed I find the North/South Gradient exists on both a Micro Scale and a Macro Scale. When I get tired of Mexican Food in the North Bay, I go to the South Bay (San Jose) for better food. And of course, when one tires of Northern California one goes to Southern California (San Diego) or better Mexican food ---- or perhaps Mexico proper.

    I'm really pleased with the trunk paint --- thanks for the tip ---- automotivetouchup.com's spray paint is REALLY EASY to work with and REALLY EASY to get very nice results with.
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  4. #123
    Senior Member ZombieBranz's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlaa View Post
    There must be some strange spatial awareness that ties us all! Indeed I find the North/South Gradient exists on both a Micro Scale and a Macro Scale. When I get tired of Mexican Food in the North Bay, I go to the South Bay (San Jose) for better food. And of course, when one tires of Northern California one goes to Southern California (San Diego) or better Mexican food ---- or perhaps Mexico proper.
    .
    the beauty, weather and diversity must be keeping us all here paying all these taxes lol

    looking forward to seeing your immaculate 500E sometime. I imagine it's even that much more stunning in person. If you come down for the Monterey car events in the fall hit me up. Rennsport Reunion is a blast.
    1971 Porsche 911E
    1993 Mercedes-Benz 500E
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  5. #124
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    With gsxr's guidance, I was able to recalibrate the 300E fuel gauge to work with the 500E's fuel level sender. This time I did it properly. As promised, I am putting my notes up here to share with the board if anyone else wants to attempt this. Stevester --- I know you were asking me about this a while ago---- this is how to use a 300E fuel gauge with the econometer with the 500E.

    Notes from the field service manual ----

    The w124 fuel level senders all work the same way. When the float is high (full tank), the fuel level sender outputs very small resistance ---- around 4 ohms as measured @ the dashboard. When the float is at the bottom (empty tank) --- the 300E's fuel level sender will output 85.6 ohms when the tank is empty. The 500E's sender only outputs 80.4 ohms when empty.

    The result then if you use a 300E gauge with a 500E without recalibrating the gauge is that the fuel gauge will always be optimistic!!!!! YOU WILL RUN OUT OF GAS ON THE ROAD unless you recalibrate the 300E gauge! This is because the 300E gauge expects 85.6 ohms to show empty ---- but the 500E's tank is already empty when the fuel level sender has risen to 80.4 ohms.

    I used a bench-top power supply (at 12 volts) to run the fuel gauge on my bench, and simulated an empty tank with a combination of resistors and an adjustable rheostat. Gsxr pointed out to me that the car will actually run higher --- 13.6-14.4 volts, which will affect the reading. I figured if I matched my stock 500E gauge's behavior @ 12 volts with a re-calibrate 300E gauge then all should be fine.

    What you want to do is adjust the rheostat on the 300E's fuel level gauge (my last picture shows the rheostat) so that the fuel level pointer registers "R" @ 80.4 ohms.

    I have attached pictures with notes. Hope this helps someone.

    Field Service Manual.jpg IMG_5942.jpg IMG_5943.jpg
    IMG_5944.jpg IMG_5954.jpg IMG_5956.jpg
    IMG_5958.jpg IMG_5962.jpg IMG_5963.jpg
    IMG_5964.jpg IMG_5965.jpg IMG_5966.jpg
    IMG_5967.jpg rheostat.jpg
    Last edited by Jlaa; 04-25-2017 at 01:01 AM.
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  7. #125
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Aside from driving the car a bunch this summer along CA-1 up through Hopland,California (where they used to grow lots and lots of hops for beer) and along CA-175 to Clear Lake, I haven't had to do much to the car at all lately - all systems are nearly new and it has been a model of reliability. Its up to 65,xxx miles now. Maybe I will take Gerry's advice and change the lock cylinder soon for preventative measures.

    Just for fun, I've been playing around with lighting. Here, I've installed red LEDs in the brake lamp positions (outer corners) and wired incandescents in parallel in the inboard positions --- to improve visibility (I'm always paranoid of being rear ended). The rear foglight functionality is retained and the brake-lamp-warning indicator does not trip.

    IMG_6902.jpg

    LED2.jpg
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/131935320386 (I used the "50watt" (quotes intentional) versions)
    http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11530

    I put Lamin-X on the Euro headlight lenses. Of course in my hamfisted efforts, I got a couple of small water bubbles underneath the material upon installation. I just couldn't work them out. However, much to my surprise, after two weeks the water bubbles have disappeared!

    Here I have installed warm white LEDs in the city light positions. The city lights are wired in (thanks Jeff0093!) with the parking lamps.

    IMG_6903.jpg

    LED1.jpg

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BA9S-6411...72.m2749.l2649

    Below is a shot of the city lights and the low-beams (incandescent Osram H4 bulbs) turned on.

    IMG_6904.jpg

    Below is a shot with high-beams turned on as well. I used Hella-Optilux H3 yellow halogen bulbs just for fun. I rarely have an occasion to use the high-beams.

    IMG_6905.jpg

    hella-optilux.jpg

    And below is a shot with just the city lights / parking lamps turned on with PIAA yellow halogen bulbs turned on in the fog positions. It gets very foggy here (August is actually "Faugust!") and I appreciate the yellow nature of these PIAA H1 bulbs. It looks much more yellow on the road than it appears in the photograph ---- in contrast to the Hella-Optilux H3s.

    IMG_6906.jpg

    pIAA.jpg
    ---
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    1993 MB 500E
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  9. #126
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Following Gerry's great howto guide here - http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11418 , I replaced the thermal paste on the back of my EZL today. Notes ..... brake parts cleaner, even when lightly wiped across the face of the EZL, will remove the white printed info on the EZL .... gggrrrrrrr....
    The white OE paste was thin but not yet dried out. The replacement grey thermal paste I used is some MEAN stuff .... impossible to get off anything w/o solvent. Also, the squeegee thing that LaminX gives you makes a great thermal paste spreader....
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  11. #127
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Arrrrrggghhh! My father, who is getting up there in age, hit my car! Frankly speaking he really should not be driving --- he misjudged distances while parking and scraped my rear fender. And of course being the man that he is, he won't apologize for it. Sigh. At least I still have him around and the damage is not bad. Still ... ugggjhh. .... painful
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  13. #128
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Bummer but you're right, it's not too bad. A good paint guy should be able to make a near invisible repair.
    '94 E500 (744) | '94 E500 (199)         Misc. snapshots

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  15. #129
    E500E Guru sheward's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Unfortunate, I understand the frustration. It could have been worse. As Glen said, seek out a great spot painter if you don't already know one.

    Drew
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  17. #130
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Man, I am sorry. Hope you can get a good paint man and keep your pristine car pristine.
    Don't know much about the damage, but does not look that bad to me.
    Trae
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  19. #131
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    As I wait for the spot-painter gentleman to show up later in the week to fix the rear fender, I decided to install the headlight leveling switch along with the assorted vacuum tubing to make it all work with the Euro headlights. Very straightforward --- and I found that I did not have to drill any holes whatsoever to run the vacuum tubes to the vacuum receptacles @ the rear of the headlights. There were rubber grommets already in the headlight housings to run the vacuum tubes through.

    As well, the yellow vacuum receptacles (attached to the purple tubing from MB) just snaps into the vacuum receptacles on the back of the headlights.

    I had to cut the rosette that holds with switch plate to allow for the steering column beauty ring to snap-in ---- I did a horrible looking job with a drill bit but realized that even my horrible looking cutout works --- and you can't see the cutout anyways.

    Now I have to adjust the headlights ----- everything is pointed way too far up.
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  21. #132
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlaa View Post
    As I wait for the spot-painter gentleman to show up later in the week to fix the rear fender, I decided to install the headlight leveling switch along with the assorted vacuum tubing to make it all work with the Euro headlights. Very straightforward --- and I found that I did not have to drill any holes whatsoever to run the vacuum tubes to the vacuum receptacles @ the rear of the headlights. There were rubber grommets already in the headlight housings to run the vacuum tubes through.

    As well, the yellow vacuum receptacles (attached to the purple tubing from MB) just snaps into the vacuum receptacles on the back of the headlights.

    I had to cut the rosette that holds with switch plate to allow for the steering column beauty ring to snap-in ---- I did a horrible looking job with a drill bit but realized that even my horrible looking cutout works --- and you can't see the cutout anyways.

    Now I have to adjust the headlights ----- everything is pointed way too far up.
    Hi Jlaa – great work!

    I am going to be creating a How To on 500E board very soon on the subject of aligning your headlamp beam Aim & pitch correctly. I have a system I have been using for years involving only electrical tape and a measuring tape – with very high accuracy. (Our MOT test requires the pitch & aim to be tested for accuracy with a digital machine)

    IMG_1876.JPG


    Last edited by JC220; 1 Week Ago at 04:30 AM.
    1987 w124 200 E36 AMG Project car - ongoing 1990 w124 300E-24 Fully Restored
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    Parted out myself- 95 C36 AMG / 95 E250D / 98 w124 India E220

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  23. #133
    Senior Member Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    Hi Jlaa – great work!

    I am going to be creating a How To on 500E board very soon on the subject of aligning your headlamp beam Aim & pitch correctly. I have a system I have been using for years involving only electrical tape and a measuring tape – with very high accuracy. (Our MOT test requires the pitch & aim to be tested for accuracy with a digital machine)

    IMG_1876.JPG


    Oh, I would be interested to read your HOWTO, thank you for doing this!

    Indeed, I would be interested to hear from others what the real world value (as opposed to theoretical value) of the headlight leveling mechanism is on our cars, particularly given that the 500E has a self levelling rear suspension. What do folks use this feature for? Surreptitiously aiming the headlights a little farthet down the road when no one is watching????

    Anyways, as I understand, setting 0 is supposed to be "normal" and settings 1,2,3 are supposed to be ever increasing levels of downward tilt to compensate for load. I adjusted both L/R headlight on the adjuster on the back of the hl housing 4 turns counter clockwise, and now "2" seems to be where my lights were aimed at previous to adding this feature.
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  25. #134
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    Re: OWNER - jlaa

    The headlamps should first be aimed correctly (both aim AND pitch) with the level adjuster at zero position.

    There are many factors that can alter the headlamp pitch and aim- concentrating on testing / setting the headlamps for a moment:

    Tyre Pressures (Set them first)
    Fuel tank (Half fill it)
    And changing bulbs can upset / alter the alignment.
    Besides all that if the physical lamp housings are removed / re-installed then the alginment is out too.

    So in effect the headlamp adjustment should be in 0 and adjusted if passengers are in the rear seat. Hence settings 1 - 3

    Thus the beam pitch is adjusted (drops lower) to prevent dazzling oncoming cars.

    I will do the DIY this weekend which will explain all of this in extreme detail - but provide easy to follow instructions for setting your own lamps with higher accuracy than shops would - in about 30 minutes.

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