WHOO HOOO Honch, that's a panty dropper!
WHOO HOOO Honch, that's a panty dropper!
1994 E500
249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320
1991 560 SEC 199/268
2014 E350 Cab 799/264
Looks really good.
1992 500E
1994 E500
1995 E320 Wagon
2011 E550 4Matic
TerryA (05-21-2017)
That looks really nice!
TerryA (05-21-2017)
That looks fantastic. I remember the feeling I had when my coupe got repainted with the AMG kit on it and all new GAHH leather and new wood. It was kind of exhilarating. I'm thinking you have that too.
Out of curiosity, did you consider the same color cladding route?
Current:
2nd 1994 E500 199 Black/Gray ca 114k miles
1988 300CE Midnight Blue/Palomino twin turbo ersatz hammer ca 172k miles
1984 300D Orient Red/Palomino Tex ca 152k miles
1988 Brabus 300CE 3.6 199/anthracite 44.5k miles
I did consider it, but decided against it as I prefer the "period correct" look.Originally Posted by remotemark
I did decide NOT to get the car re-pin-striped. If I ever wanted to I could, but that was a change that I consciously made.
I will likely get new leather. All of the leather in the car except the driver's seat and armrest are original MB leather with patina. The front passenger skin has some slight surface cracks between some of the perforations (not all the way through) and I have left that as is for the past 15 years because it is the thick, original MB skin. The rear seats are slightly stiff (it was a California car before I got it) but I think they can be brought back around with some Leather-reek.
The car has nearly 250K miles on it, so it will always be a "driver," but I just want to make it a nice driver that runs perfectly as my daily driver. I hope to go the Glen (Hi-Miler) route with it in the next 15 years.
The wood will really make the interior "pop" and I'm really looking forward to getting that done.
When I take delivery of the car I will post lots more photos.
Looks great, Gerry. One of my favorite color combos. Both my '70 280SL and my '95 124 cabrio are black over parchment. Love it.
1993 500E Signal Red/Parchment
1987 300TDT Ivory/Palomino
1995 E320 Cabrio Black/Parchment
1969 280SL Silver/Green - 1970 280SL Black/Parchmen
1987 560SL Signal Red/Palomino
TerryA (05-21-2017)
Quick evolution of the process....
Condition from original accident
Late October, 2016
2016-10-23 09.16.22.jpeg
Dropped off at the body & paint shop
Mid-December, 2016
IMG_6523.JPG IMG_6526.JPG
Repairs in progress
Mid-January, 2017
IMG_6625.jpg IMG_6627.JPG IMG_6637.JPG
Painting process underway
February, 2017
IMG_6693.JPG
Painting, curing, prep and body re-assembly continue
Late March, 2017
IMG_6941.JPG IMG_6914.JPG
Final stages of paint prep
Mid-May, 2017
2017-05-19 13.36.43.jpg 2017-05-19 13.36.47.jpg
I think you made the right choice on the cladding.
1992 500E
1994 E500
1995 E320 Wagon
2011 E550 4Matic
I picked up the car at the body shop this afternoon, and all was good. Close to $11,000 worth of work, of which nearly $8,000 was labor. A few minor things to note, which I'll do in the morning.
I have an appointment to have the new tires mounted and balanced for the rear wheels on Saturday morning, and the car will be going to Mercedes-Benz of Houston North on May 31 at 7AM for a four-wheel alignment. At that point, things should be back to normal. Looking forward to spending some time behind the wheel. Felt good driving back from Houston today, stretching out in the heavy SEC, eating up the freeway miles as I headed up I-45.
This weekend we're heading to Galveston, so we'll take the SEC for its maiden voyage for that. Looking forward to hitting the 250,000 mile mark soon.
I asked the owner of the shop about how they do the cladding/bumper paint. It turns out that it is a two-stage paint. The second stage is a matte clear coat. I hadn't known that.
More in the morning.
Cheers,
Gerry
It looks sessy.
1992 500E
1994 E500
1995 E320 Wagon
2011 E550 4Matic
TerryA (4 Weeks Ago)
Very nice GVZ! It must be like a comfortable pair of slippers after months of boardrooms and palm greasing!
1994 E500
249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320
1991 560 SEC 199/268
2014 E350 Cab 799/264
A couple of small issues noticed after I picked up the car. The biggest one was that the ABS light was on, on the dashboard, and the car was idling around 1,200 RPM.
That was relatively easy to fix -- classic problem. When you have that combination of symptoms on an M117 or an M103, 80% of the time it is the OVP (over-voltage protection) relay that is bad. Or, one of the fuses in the top of the relay is blown. Some versions of the relay have one 10-amp fuse; others have two 10-ampers.
My relay is the original unit to the car, but has never failed. I have approximately six of these OVP units in my parts stock, including a brand-new KAE (Kaehler) unit in the box that I once found inside of a junkyard vehicle.
Anyway, I pulled the old relay, inspected the fuses, and sure enough.....one of them was blown.
Replaced the fuse, replaced and plugged in the relay, and all was good. You can see a couple of my extra OVPs that I had pulled from my parts stock.
Quick restart of the vehicle showed no ABS light and a normal ~550 RPM idle.
Cheers,
Gerry
Locating the OVP relay behind the inner firewall on the 560SEC, right next to the Klima and fuel pump relays.
2017-05-26 08.08.55.jpg
Unplugging and removing the relay.
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Opening up the flip-top fuse lid to inspect the two 10-amp fuses.
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Aha! Found the blown fuse. And replacing it with a spare. You can see the extra OVP relays that I had close at hand from my MB parts stock. Always handy....
2017-05-26 08.05.58.jpg 2017-05-26 08.07.22.jpg
Replacement is the opposite of removal.
LOVE easy fixes
1994 E500
249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320
1991 560 SEC 199/268
2014 E350 Cab 799/264
TerryA (4 Weeks Ago)
Just getting caught up on this thread. Beautiful car. Thanks for sharing the latest journey.
RicardoD
1990 Porsche 964 C4
1991 Porsche 964 C2 tip
1994 E500
2014 E350 for wife
That is extremely common on cars that have been at a body shop for a while, and/or sitting unused through a long repair process. A little over-voltage or reverse polarity via a battery recharge, jump starting, especially with a charger/booster, and/or when disconnecting batteries, ground connections etc. especially with the key in the on position are all opportunities to pop that fuse, and most body shops exploit every one of them...
Putting the fun in dysfunction...
Probably forgetting to disconnect the battery while welding.
Story of the man's whole life right there, Louie...
Putting the fun in dysfunction...
A minor snag on the road to recovery for my SEC.....
I took the SEC into the "stealership" for a four-wheel super-MB alignment, to get everything all set up and in order after my mishap with the semi-truck. The alignment results came back with some significant issues with the rear suspension, particularly relating to the toe angle, which they could not correct.
This is logical, seeing as the original accident was a glancing blow from the side. This likely slightly bent the rear trailing arm on the right side, where the accident occurred, tweaking the toe angle of the rear wheel, and to a lesser extent the camber too.
In the past, when I'd gotten alignments with the SEC, they'd always been able to get the car within specs, but JUST within specs, due to the Eibach lowering springs tweaking the car's camber. This is a fact of life when lowering an SEC, and there's not too much that can be done about it.
Unfortunately, new trailing arms for the late Gen 2 W126 models are just shy of $2,000, or about $1,400 discounted. This cost is too rich even for my blood, so I will pursue getting an entire used (but un-tweaked) rear subframe, with both trailing arms, and I will rebuild this and then install it on the car.
The good thing is that I had already been anticipating a rear subframe rebuild well before the accident, so I had stockpiled the fairly expensive MB rear rubber subframe and differential mounts & rear trailing arm bushings in my parts stock. What I will do is to purchase the remaining rubber bits, as well as a complete used rear subframe including the rear trailing arms. I will refurbish and clean this rear subframe so that it can be eaten off of, and I will install it on the SEC to effectively have a completely refurbished rear axle. This operation will also allow me to examine and refurbish the rear axle shafts and diff seals as well, if this is needed. At minimum, probably replace the rubber boots and such.
At the time I checked out at the stealership, they also handed me a $9,500 invoiced for recommended work (aka the GVZ "deferred maintenance" regimen). Not only was more than $3,000 of this the replacement of the damaged rear trailing arm (parts and labour), but it also included $955 to replace the two slightly leaking M117 valve cover gaskets.
Now, these gaskets are available from MB for around $20 each ($14 each through www.mboemparts.com, or high-quality Elring valve cover gaskets for $6.00 apiece), and the eight copper washers are around $0.50 apiece. And removing & replacing the valve covers (eight bolts) is around 1-2 hours of labor, total.
So, you can see the stealer pricing is, indeed, legalized "robbery" and why I only darken the doorway of my local "stealer" for alignments only.
One consolation is that the "stealer" did give me a $50 manager's discount off of the $225.00 cost of the alignment, to $175. Even this has gone up around $30-40 over the past few years for the alignment, but I didn't mind the price (too much).
I'll keep folks informed on what I do with the rear axle situation. I feel a pretty interesting "HOW-TO" a-coming for the 126 section of the site.....I should have more information soon on the parts that I get.
Cheers,
Gerry
Here's what the "fully loaded" W126 rear subframe looks like. Note the rear trailing arms (lower control arms) bolted to the subframe. It's a very different suspension setup than our W124s, despite the 124 also having a rear subframe.
w126-sec-series-ii-genuine-mercedes-rear-sub-frame-radius-arms-drive-shafts-and-differential-.jpg W123subframeremovedagain.jpg
I have purchased a used, entire subframe from a 1991 W126 model. I'll be taking delivery very shortly and will commence a HOW-TO on refurbishment of this unit, replacement of bushings and mounting parts, removal of old subframe/trailing arms and installation of new one.
This operation will be interrupted by my pending annual "Euro Tour" trip during the second half of June, but I will try to at least get the replacement subframe refurbished and ready for install before I leave for Munich.
Cheers,
Gerry
If the body is tweaked, the guy who rents space from me is a body man that now restores 356's. He has a bench with dedicated fixtures for the W126 that he used back in the 80's sitting at my shop. I plan to use him to fix my (your) 90 560SEL with a caved in rear end when I get through some of my other projects.
That car was a sweet, SoCal SEL. That said, I think what I'd do is just weld an entire rear section off of a good SEL right onto the back end, after ensuring the frame is straight. It's worth salvaging, IMHO.
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
You're right, I would not consider doing this level of effort any other W126 but this one. It really looks, feels and sounds like a brand new car inside and under the hood. The previous owner must have been a real nut job!
The box frame section in the left rear where the sub frame attaches is wrinkled. The plan would be to pull everything straight using the frame machine and measuring system, then remove the frame section at the spot welds (this guy has the mother of all spot welders) and weld it back up. Then replace the rear left quarter, trunk floor and rear panel. Spot welding where necessary so that everything looks factory.
I have a 420SEL in the same color waiting to donate parts for when this project happens.
The guy who I've worked with the past is amazing with metal working. He did a bunch of work on my pagoda after I pulled it from the body shop that ripped me off. He gas welded the quarter panel section as the welds are softer and was able to metal work the panel to near perfection. Apparently MIG or TIG welds are too hard and may crack when plenishing. I wish I knew more people like him, he plans on retiring soon.
I really look forward to the day that it's done and the old girl is running again. Hopefully at a future Centerville gathering.
Watch out for errant URO flex discs and inadvertant airbag deployment !!! ;P
I came across the "donor" car that provided the rear quarter panel for my coupe. Sort of sad to see it there, awaiting the opportunity to donate more parts so that other cars stay on the road.
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And, here is the 126 rear suspension & subframe that I snagged to replace the tweaked one on my coupe.
0c0b3cb160d330421001ffbca0dd015d.jpeg
It will undergo refurbishment in my shop, with all bushings being replaced and prepared for installation some weeks from now.
Second of four big batches of parts came in today.
Today's box contained a new SGF front flex disc for the SEC (both flex discs are the same). It was a Febi box but SGF inside, made in Germany. So, same as always on that.
Also got two front 126 lower ball joints, which are Lemforder, also made in Germany. These will get pressed into the front lower control arms in the coming weeks -- no time right now. The boots on my front BJs are ruptured, so they need to be replaced.
Also got two Elring valve cover gaskets for the M117, so I replaced one of the two gaskets tonight. Took about 45 mins.
The old gasket was new 60K miles ago in 2010, when I did the top-end refresh. It cracked into two pieces coming off and was quite brittle, so overdue to be changed. New copper sealing washers for the four bolts that hold the valve covers on.
I'll do the other half of the job tomorrow night. One side took about 40 mins, taking my time and cleaning everything up as good as possible. Torqued down to the 3 Nm spec, and will re-tighten tomorrow night.
Valvetrain inspection on the passenger side looked fine; cam lobes in good condition. Medium colored chain rails, still in good condition.
A few pics of the new gasket installed, and of the passenger side valvetrain. Inside looked quite clean with no varnish.
This is the job that the local "stealership" wanted $955 to do.
Cheers,
Gerry
Sent from my iPhone using Tappytalk
$995! Doh. Definitely older looking engine than the M119. What year range was this engine designed?
RicardoD
1990 Porsche 964 C4
1991 Porsche 964 C2 tip
1994 E500
2014 E350 for wife
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
The 5.6 version of the M117 (aluminum block & heads) was produced from 1985-1991.
The 5.0 version of the M117 (aluminum block & heads) was produced from 1979-1991.
The 4.5 version of the M117 (iron block, aluminum heads) was produced from 1971-1979.
See posts 38, 43 & 44 in this thread for more information: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/show...ll=1#post19929
See posts 2, 5, 21 & 25 of this thread for more info, as well: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696
Another gift-box from the MB parts gods arrived just now. It contained a new fuel feed line (the high-pressure line from the pumps up to the fuel distributor), as well as the two windshield washer nozzles that came from Germany, and a few various types of clips to hold the washer hose to the hood hinges. So, I'll be (after 7 years) re-connecting the heated washer system now that the coupe has the correct hood to properly hold the electrics for the heating system. I've had the parts sitting around for years, but they would not properly fit the first-generation (non electrically heated) coupe hood underside that I'd previously had fitted.
Also I got a new rubber mount (screws into the top of the intake manifold) for the idle air slide valve. The old rubber mount had come apart, though it was not a critical issue.
Not gonna be too much fun fitting the new fuel line, because it is clamped to the inner firewall and goes down and under the car a ways. But, (unlike the fuel return line back to the tank from the fuel cooler) at least I won't take a MAJOR gasoline bath when replacing the feed line, like I did 7 years ago....that one still gives me nightmares.
This will be the last fuel line to be replaced on the car. I did all of the rear lines back by the pump/accumulator/filter bundle by the rear axle, some years back.
Cheers,
Gerry
Finished my valve cover gasket installation last night, with the completion of the driver's side gasket. It, too, was quite brittle after 7 years and 60K miles, and it cracked upon the removal process. It had been a couple of years since I had torqued down the valve cover bolts, and they were quite loose, which facilitated an ongoing, but quite mild, seepage of oil from the valve covers.
For both sides, taking my absolute time (cleaning and polishing the valve covers once removed from the engine, etc.), the valve cover gasket replacement job took approximately 2.5 hours of my time. The driver's side replacement required removing the two fuel lines (fuel feed and fuel return to the fuel cooler) that route over the valve cover, as well as loosening the line from the intake manifold to the brake booster so that I could remove the valve cover from the top of the cylinder head.
In the process of removing the valve cover, I knocked the cam oiler tube off of the top of the cam towers, so I also had to remove that, and I took the time to clean it, and re-align the brown-plastic cam oiler clips along its length. When re-installing the valve cover, I also re-installed the cam oiler tube, carefully tapping it into place on the tops of the cam towers with my trusty rubber mallet.
My recommendation is that at least once a year, M117 owners should torque down their valve cover bolts to the MB spec'd 3 Nm of torque, to ensure this seepage doesn't happen. All you have to do is remove the air cleaner to access all eight bolts, so it is quite a simple process and takes but 5 minutes to do.
After replacing the valve covers (and I re-torqued the passenger side cover, given that it had been 24 hours since I first installed it), I blasted the sides of the block with engine de-greaser and then brake cleaner (thick cardboard underneath the engine) to blast off the caked-on oil and grime, and oil that had seeped down onto the exhaust manifolds upon removal of the valve covers. This thing is going to smell and smoke to high heaven upon startup of the engine, but hopefully I got as much as possible off of the manifolds.
NOTE: It's an important step, when installing new valve cover gaskets and copper crush washers, to re-torque the valve cover bolts after 24 hours. The rubber gaskets do compress after being installed, which slackens the torque on the valve cover bolts. I was amazed at how much things had slackened after the initial installation.
Also, you should use a micro-torque wrench to do this. For very small (inch pounds and small-number newton-neters) torquing jobs, I have an old-school, needle-type torque wrench that slides along a scale. I find these to be fairly accurate.
I also did two other jobs -- installing the two washer nozzles into their respective holes in the freshly painted coupe hood, and installing the rubber mounting buffer that mounts the idle air slide valve for the CIS-E system to the intake manifold. These W126 heated washer nozzles are now up to $80 each, discounted !! They are not cheap. They were about one-half that some years back.
Sorry about the lack of photos - I'll make up for that soon as I continue the project.
Cheers,
Gerry
Yet another box arrived today.
- Two kits for the rear wheel bearings (I will replace the originals, with 241K miles on them). Box says that the kits was made in Slovakia; at least one of the bearing sets were made in Hungary.
44b5575e457b824da2b774910b52cadb.jpeg f83903507eb2e5fe2550c6e275d6c40a.jpeg
- Two sets of 560SEC rear trailing arm bushings, Lemforder, made in Germany. Applying the "sniff test," the rubber does smell German, not Chinese (the smell you get when you enter a Harbor Fright store), that is a positive sign....
5db604ee374e769c99ebe1df8c8cf644.jpeg 2017-06-08 16.21.45.jpg
Both of these items will go into the rear suspension overhaul for the coupe.
Cheers,
Gerry
Just a few things tonight out in the shop. I finished connecting the spark plug wires on the left side of the engine, and started it up briefly to ensure that everything was in the proper place. Ran nice and smoothly.
f5880068463f95b5389d57c2692a81f2.jpeg
Next, I re-torqued the valve cover bolts to 3Nm spec. All of them were slightly loose, showing that the gaskets and copper crush washers are settling in.
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Next up, I replaced the spare tire & accessories in the trunk well, including a pair of nitrile gloves, a blanket and the spare set of lug bolts for the stock spare wheel. Only things missing (I need to add) are a roll of emergency toilet paper and a couple of relays, including spare fuel pump and OVP relays. I'll add those shortly.
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Here are a few views of the broken Lorinser wheel and popped Continental tire from the accident, last October.
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You move quick! My teenage boys finished their schooling today and my Algebra cramming sessions are over with my 15 year old! We saved his grade! Hopefully that frees up more weekend time for me now that summer is here. I need to get my 1990 964 engine back together and your rate of progress is putting me to shame. You are definitely mastering the 126. When I first bought my 1990 Carrera 4 (964) in 2007 it scared me, like it was this ticking time bomb of upcoming repair bills. So many horror stories about the most complex 4WD system ever invented. Over the years it has revealed itself to me slowly where am mastering more and more systems and haven't visited a Porsche shop in over 8 years now. Hell I even earned my engine drop wings on my 1991. Its been fun getting up to speed on .036 and giving me confidence to perhaps take on on the 126 platform. How hard can it be if Gerry is doing it.
Last edited by RicardoD; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:10 AM.
RicardoD
1990 Porsche 964 C4
1991 Porsche 964 C2 tip
1994 E500
2014 E350 for wife
One nice thing about the 126 -- it was designed for a V-8, so there is MUCH more room under the hood to work on things as compared to the E500E!!!
Makes for much less swearing and somewhat fewer skinned knuckles.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Man, I really hate seeing pictures of that wheel. I'm guessing there is no way it can be fixed.
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
That wheel is toast. I'm contemplating putting it up on the garage wall as a decoration. Either that, or putting it in the recycle bin. It can make a fair number of aluminum cans in its next life....
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
Garden hose reel / hanger.
Are you SURE that won't buff out...? A little JB Weld could form a new lip!
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
Jobs to do that are currently on the list for the 560SEC:
- Replace front lower control arm ball joints
- Replace idler arm and idler arm bushing (de rigeur after an accident)
- Refurbish and replace rear suspension assembly**
- Replace front flex disc (very slightly cracked)
- Replace steering shock
Replace valve cover gaskets- Re-seal steering box (output shaft)
- Replace distributor cap and rotor
- Replace spark plugs
- Connect windshield washer system to nozzles & electrics
- Add sunroof felt sliders and lubricate sunroof
- Replace instrument cluster lights with brighter LED lamps (experimental)
- Check and replace brake pads (if needed)
- Replace rear swaybar links with metal MB link arms
** Rear suspension assembly refurbishment includes the following tasks:
- Replace all four trailing arm bushings
- Replace and re-pack all four rear wheel bearings
- Replace rear subframe mounts
- Replace rear differential mount
- Inspect and replace rear axle shaft rubber boots, if required
- Replace all other rubber mounts and plugs on rear subframe
- Bleed brake system
As you can see, I've got a lot of work ahead of me.....
The next tasks I'll take on is to replace the front LCA ball joints, and the front flex disc.
Remind me again why you don't trade this in for a new or CPO Impreza with extended warranty and lots of airbags?
When you get a 240D (W123), I'll get an ImprezaRemind me again why you don't trade this in for a new or CPO Impreza with extended warranty and lots of airbags?
That lorinser could be repaired. Would take a skilled welder and a good machinist. Definitely possible... But not worth the expense. Definitely better off as a momento.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
89 560 SEC
92 300D 265k and counting.
E5E .... at some point.
I'm in the process of getting an entire spare set of them in the same size.
Couple of small things tonight....
First, I started the car and took it for a 10-mile test run to ensure the valve cover gaskets were sealed up well and not leaking. The run also baked off the oil from the exhaust manifolds that had run onto them from the edges of the cylinder heads when the covers were removed. Man, I hate the smell of burning oil.
Couple views as I buttoned things up underhood.
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Next, I added one of the "PREMIUM UNLEADED ONLY" stickers that went inside of the fuel flap.
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Then, I prepared for the front ball joint replacement on the steering knuckles. This will be the first time I do this and it should be fairly easy with the "special tool" for pressing in the new joints. I'll do a HOW-TO on the process.
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That's a nice ball joint press . The W126 ball joints are a pita to press. I've seen a different W126 specific tool that requires the use of a shop press but not this one.
That is the Gen-U-Wine 116, 123, 126 front ball joint tool. It is the business...
I hate the mess, but a nice coat of some kind of metallic anti-sieze is a great idea to preserve the threads. Same for spring compressor shafts, etc...
Putting the fun in dysfunction...
The ball joint press makes the job easy. The HOW-TO should be good.
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TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
It probably wouldn't hurt to throw the ball joints in the freezer the night before pressing them in too. Or maybe just one to see if there's any difference in ease of installing with the tool.
Jon D.
1994 E420
1995 E420
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
The Lemförder joints are exactly the correct size (just slightly larger than the diameter of the hole) and the factory tool makes very short work of the pressing-in. You do have to use a very light coating of lube on the BJ per factory instructions. Gleitpaste works well.
The other aftermarket BJs (URO is a great example) are significantly larger diameter and do not press in well nor easily, even with the factory tool.
The MB OEM for the front lower BJs is Lemförder.
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Perhaps I should take advantage of your tool GVZ before you send it back
1994 E500
249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320
1991 560 SEC 199/268
2014 E350 Cab 799/264
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
Have you looked at sourcing upper control arms recently? Neither worpdac or IMC are now selling them (just Febi, URO and FEQ). I fear that Lemforder might be getting out of the W126 front end business.
It might be a good time to stock up.
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
I have been doing research on 126 upper control arms. I have a source for some NOS aftermarket UCAs from back in the day, made in Germany and of equivalent quality to the factory units.
I am also looking at Lemförder as well, but I am not convinced they are of factory quality.
TRW is another vendor who is making these parts. Some of their stuff is of decent quality, and other stuff is garbage. I do not yet know of the quality of their UCAs.
It is most likely that I will just spring for what I mentioned above, or just bite the bullet and stock-pile a pair of factory units (which I can get at an awesome discount well below mboemparts/Husker/Asheville/etc.).
It is VERY clear than anything that is not factory (and perhaps, but not for sure Lemförder), is absolutely GARBAGE for this particular part. I have read more than a few stories about Febi & URO UCAs going bad just about immediately after installation, or a very short time afterward.
I'm lucky that my UCAs are in good shape, even the rubber boots.
Unfortunately with this particular part, I think factory is going to be about the only way to go for it in the future. That is, as long as they are available from MB.
Current MB list price for the UCAs (pictured below) is as follows:
Right side - 126 330 07 07 - $1,220
Left side - 126 330 06 07 - $770
Cheers,
Gerry
P.S. For those interested, this is the upper control arm part that Al and I are discussing. You can see that on the W126, the front sway bar ties into the upper control arm. You don't EVER EVER EVER want to change the front sway bar on a W123 or a W126. It actually requires almost as much book time as replacing a W124 evaporator, or removing/replacing the cylinder head on an M104 engine.
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Screen shot 2013-03-01 at 12.02.14 PM.jpeg
Now if we could just get Honch to upload pics to the forum, instead of linking to pics hosted by Tappytalk! That's how we end up with broken image links and lost images 10 years in the future.
100% correct! I've seen repair kits for the 123/126 sway bar if only the end has snapped; it basically adds on a chunk to replace the missing end. Probably worth it, if the bar end has broken off (which I think is the usual failure mode?). The MB engineers who designed this must have been in a rush to get to Oktoberfest or something.
I was trying to help the kid that works for me source parts for another one of his customers. The guy drives a 91 350SDL for work and puts about 70,000 miles per year on it. More and more sub standard parts will start showing up these cars and push quality suppliers out of the game as these cars move away from being daily drivers. My suspicion is that suppliers are going to make parts to last 20,000 miles or less and hope that it will take owners at least 5 years to get there.
I went through the offending posts and uploaded the photos to the forum database. Not that any of the photos really have added any value to the thread, since I got the car back from the body shop......Now if we could just get Honch to upload pics to the forum, instead of linking to pics hosted by Tappytalk! That's how we end up with broken image links and lost images 10 years in the future.
gsxr (2 Weeks Ago), Klink (2 Weeks Ago), Russell R Coe (2 Weeks Ago), TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
Oh, just to clarify, since I may not have described it properly, I was talking about applying some anti-seize type compound on the threaded shaft of the tool, not on the ball joint.The ball joint press makes the job easy. The HOW-TO should be good.
It just occurred to me that it would be easy for someone to think I was referring to the serrations on the ball joint housing as "threads"
Sorry if I was unclear.
Putting the fun in dysfunction...
Nope, you were clear. All of my puller tools' threads are very lightly oiled when I use them. Makes the operation go much better & smoother.
TerryA (2 Weeks Ago)
I have begun posting the HOW-TO for the replacement of the front suspension lower ball joints at this thread.
If you have a W/C126, it's an excellent idea to visually check the condition of your upper and lower ball joint rubber boots when you are doing your brakes. Or, just get under the car and take a quick peek.
Cheers,
Gerry
albdentist (2 Weeks Ago)
The ball joint press from MB makes very short work of the job, and it is very simple. Takes all of 2 minutes to press in a BJ to the steering knuckle.
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