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Thread: Testing Radiator Pressure

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    E500E Guru emerydc8's Avatar
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    Testing Radiator Pressure

    I bought a radiator pressure test kit from HF and decided to check out one of my E420s. This car has always been remarkably cool during the hot Tucson summers, so I thought I might use this as a baseline. There are no visible coolant leaks and I haven't had to add any coolant since I last replaced the hoses about two years ago. To that end, I pumped it up to 15psi and hacked the clock. Here's the result of the bleed-down (if it's even supposed to bleed-down):

    10 psi in 11 min
    7.5 psi in 20 min
    5 psi in 30 min

    Is this normal?
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Jon, I'd say no, that isn't normal. It should hold pressure longer. Was there any trace of liquid coming out somewhere? Also, are you sure the tester itself is not the source of the leakdown?


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Absolutely no visible leaks whatsoever. I'll check the tester.

    [EDIT]: The tester piston doesn't bleed down at all. The only other place it could be leaking is where the adaptor goes into the radiator neck. I'm trying to find something of similar size to test it on. This Maddox kit has more than dozen different adaptors and none of them will fit my 92 Z28, so I can only use it on my Mercedes anyway. For $90 I'm thinking of returning it tomorrow.

    I will try it on my other E420 later tonight, which is really why I bought the kit to begin with. Since installing a Graf water pump on that car a few months ago, it has been running about ten degrees hotter. All the fans are working properly and the viscous fan passes the roar test.
    Last edited by emerydc8; 04-10-2017 at 06:14 PM.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I have the HF kit, the adapters can bleed a little

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, alabbasi. It was the adaptor after all. I used some dielectric tuneup grease to help seal it and it is now holding.

    In fact, both E420s are holding 15 psi, which leaves me puzzled as to why the car with the new Graf water pump has been running hotter.

    I can't find any numbers on the pump that came off the car (this was not the original), so I don't know what it is. I wonder if the impellers vary by the brand of pump. It seems that the cooling efficiency was lost when I installed the Graf PA578 pump. I have the old-style pump (119 200 15 01). In stop-and-go traffic, the high-speed fans kick in and stop it from getting over 105c but they don't drop the temperature -- it seems to stabilize right at 105 -- and the fans could run indefinitely like that with no decrease in temperature. It's not a big deal at 85f outside but when it gets to 115 it's going to overheat for sure. That's strange because this car ran so cool with the other pump that I'm tempted to rebuild it and slap it back on.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Jon, were there any other changes at the same time you installed the water pump? New t-stat for example? Radiator? Etc...

    Dave M.
    1997 E420 (Bugeyes)
    1994 E420 (Blondie)
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    1992 500E (Mach 5)
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Nothing. I even kept the coolant ratio the same -- about 30%.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    [UPDATE]:

    I flushed the system thoroughly, changed the thermostat and refilled with 30% Zerex G-05. The old thermostat seemed fine though. Still no change.

    There doesn't seem to be any obstruction in the cooling system. The water from a garden hose flows freely throughout the radiator and engine. But still, after about 25 minutes of driving at 76 degrees outside and the a/c blower on high (full cold), the temp creeps up and sets off the high speed fans when I come to a stop and let it idle for about five minutes. Subsequently, the fans do almost nothing to drop the coolant temp. I sat there for five minutes and the temp stayed steady. If I switch from full a/c to full heat, it drops it right back below 100C in less than a minute. My experience with high-speed fans is that you can watch the gauge drop after they kick in. It's not happening here.

    I have no idea why this is running so hot. The only thing I can suspect at this point is the new Graf water pump is not moving the coolant like the old one.

    I know the newer style pumps with the different thermostat housing are thought to flow more coolant. Has anyone had an experience like this after installing a new after-market water pump? Napperville sells the reman OEM for about $200 so that's my next step. The radiator is only about a year old.

    Out of curiosity, should it be this easy to slow the low-speed fans to a stop?

    https://youtu.be/AXwzFzL3rds

    Last edited by emerydc8; 04-15-2017 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Added video
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    So I'm down to replacing the Graf water pump I just installed because I can't figure out what else could be causing my engine to run so hot since installing the Graf pump. FCP Euro has a new Behr pump which they say is OEM. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...p-1192001501-1. Nappervile MB offers a reman for twice that amount. http://www.mboemparts.com/?p=catalog...str=1192001501

    Any thoughts on why Napperville doesn't offer the new pump? Also, can anyone verify that the original pump is in fact Behr?
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Yes, there is very little torque on the auxiliary fans at low speed.

    Water pumps can definitely make an engine run hot in the manner you describe. The impeller design may be incorrect. It may be pressed on to an incorrect depth. It could be pressed on backwards. It could have blades designed for a pump that rotates in the opposite direction. In that case, just as with any centrifugal pump or squirrel cage blower, the flow still runs in the correct direction, just much less efficiently.

    AFAIK, thermostats were not modified to increase flow, but they were definitely modified to be more reliable over the long term. The earlier version old school thermostat design is prone to cracking at the wax element, wearing itself off center, and sometimes just fracturing in a few places. A similar design to the late version 119 thermostat was introduced with the M120, the M111, and just about every other gasoline engine across the board. Curiously, the M104, which by Mercedes standards has a voracious appetite for thermostats, retaind the old-school design right up through the end of production. Generally, this won't mean much to any of us these days, because, as supplied to MB from the various thermostat vendors, usually Wahler, Behr, Behr-Thompson, all of the old school thermostats in the M119, which if you did not know, were all actually last version M116/117 thermostats, were also modified to be more durable, and they are vastly superior to the first version of this thermostat, many of which developed broken wax elements and failed by sticking closed, usually well before 100,000 miles. In Central Florida, a bunch of them failed in the warranty period. That's why there is an early version part number still in the EPC carrying the dreaded "do not use, no longer to be installed, etc." footnote.
    I have never seen a failure of the last version "everything is one piece with the cap" thermostat design, though I would definitely replace one of those also, when replacing the water pump, as I would with any thermostat design. And I would absolutely replace any thermostat may have been subjected to very hot coolant or steam.

    So, to shorten this up to what matters, I would always replace a thermostat when replacing the water pump regardless of its design or age. I would not bother to retrofit a late version water pump/thermostat assemblage. I would replace any thermostat on an engine that has run or is running hot regardless of the original reason for the hot running.

    Now, in the 124, you are pressed for space, but the thermostat is a piece of cake to change out in any other M119, so there is nothing stopping you from changing the thermostat first if there is any doubt. However, if you have access to a good digital/infrared thermometer, or perhaps even a contact thermometer that you could tape to the hoses, you could try this: When this thing is acting up and running hotter than high school love, check the temperature of the upper radiator hose and the lower radiator hoses. Especially with your auxiliary fans roaring away on high-speed, there should be a significant difference in temperature between the upper and lower radiator hoses if inadequate flow, either via defective thermostat, or defective pump is the issue.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, Klink. I already replaced the T-stat and no change. I don't have a digital thermometer (it's on my list) but I am pretty sure the radiator was fine when I flushed it last week and it's more a matter of the pump not flowing the volume it should.

    If it were you, would you get the new Behr or the reman from Napperville. Not sure how the reman can be twice the price of a new pump. Is Behr the OEM?
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    Thanks, Klink. I already replaced the T-stat and no change. I don't have a digital thermometer (it's on my list) but I am pretty sure the radiator was fine when I flushed it last week and it's more a matter of the pump not flowing the volume it should.

    If it were you, would you get the new Behr or the reman from Napperville. Not sure how the reman can be twice the price of a new pump. Is Behr the OEM?
    I honestly don't know who the OEM is. The Behr branded unit is probably a safe bet, but I just don't know. Unless somebody else knows for certain, I would probably go with the stealer pump...
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, Klink. I'm out on a trip for a few weeks anyway, so maybe someone might know why the dealer is selling remans for twice what a new Behr costs. Considering the Graf is likely causing the heat issue, I don't want to replace one bad pump with another.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I would be comfortable with Graf, Laso, Behr or OEMB water pumps, personally. I would prefer a new pump to a reman one, even though the "stealer" parts do carry a warranty.

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I agree. A new one sounds better. It just seems too good to be true that a new one costs half as much as a reman. That makes me wonder if the reman is better and also what brand is the reman.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I was not aware that Behr offered a water pump at all... I've only seen Laso, Graf, and maybe an oddball like Meyle or something. I'd be a bit nervous about Behr just because they have moved production for some items to China, and I'd be concerned about their water pump being a reboxed off-brand. In this case, given the misery of the job, I'd probably spring for the OE/dealer pump.

    Since you are already planning to replace the pump, it may not hurt to do the upgrade to the late-style, which requires a different upper water neck, one longer bolt for the different neck, different upper gasket (O-ring instead of paper), and different t-stat. I think this is documented in another forum thread?


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, Dave. I will definitely consider that. Do you know why they went with the updated pump/thermostat housing? Did it flow more coolant? I know the thermostat flange is about an half inch larger but it still has to go through the same hose in the end.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Jon, the late pump uses an M120 impeller part number, and there was speculation about increased flow vs the 'old' pump with M119 impeller p/n. However other than one anecdotal report from 10+ years ago on 500Ecstasy, there hasn't been much proof either way for any improvement in flow, temps, or cooling performance. The late pump eliminates the drain tube and drip-collection reservoir, likely as a cost-reduction effort. And as Klink described above, the late style t-stat may be slightly improved but that's not adequate reason to upgrade if the current pump is ok.

    I don't know who the OEM is on the pumps. The OE/dealer pumps don't have any brand name visible, just the MB Star and p/n, IIRC. There may be a logo that Klink or Jono could translate into a brand name?


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, Dave. So Klink would go with the stealer reman and GVZ would prefer the new Behr. What say ye?
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Testing Radiator Pressure

    My laso boxed WP had a mb logo from
    Autohausaz for the C126.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks. I see Autohaus offers the Graf and Meyle pump for the 119 200 15 01.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I think you maybe running into the impeller is not pressed onto the bearing to the correct depth... heard of it on other models.. nothing 119 specific.

    M

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    Thanks, Dave. So Klink would go with the stealer reman and GVZ would prefer the new Behr. What say ye?
    Per the previous concerns about Behr going Chinese... and how much fun this job is... I'd spring for the dealer reman.

    I am still surprised that the Graf pump may be defective!


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks guys. I will probably go with the reman from Napperville. At this point I don't know what else it could be. At least I don't have to remove the damper on my model.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I'm running a reman in my e500. Could there have been a change in the FC due to moving/storage on it's side etc?

    M

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Not sure what you mean by FC.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Fan clutch

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I don't think I even put the fan clutch on its side -- I leaned it up against a wall while I changed the pump. There was no leaking and it still passes the roar test. I'm almost certain it's the pump, but will have to wait a few weeks before I get to it.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Emercy,

    The one thing not mentioned frequently enough- MB stands behind their parts. So even with you installing it, it comes with a 1 year parts and *labor* warrentee. While I'm somewhat financially limited- cannot just dump thousands into my car at end, I am also time limited. So very seldom do I choose aftermarket parts. On a positive note, I find rework ussually goes much quicker. You'll find it much easier the 2nd time.


    Michael

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I believe that MB factory parts now have a 2-year warranty, no?

    That said, with a water pump in particular I would never have a problem installing an aftermarket Laso (or Graf) water pump on any of my vehicles. If I remember correctly, on the former 1995 124 wagon I owned, there is a Laso water pump installed. I would also install Behr parts, such as a radiator, as I still think they are a good name. Not enough data (yet) on any quality drop on their parts, at least that I've seen.

    I did install a Nissens replacement radiator a few years back in my E500 and it has been fine. It was between a Nissens (which I got new for an excellent price), a Behr, or MB OE.

    For water pumps, I [personally] would always choose a Laso over a Graf, given a choice.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I ordered the factory reman from Napperville to be safe. When it comes, I'll see if there's any indication of who made it.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    I just got the reman water pump from Napperville. The box is marked 119 200 15 01 80 but the pump is marked 119 201 07 01. Is this a superseded number? Also, it's hard to tell but it looks like the impeller is marked 119 201 00 37. Any thoughts on this?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by emerydc8; 05-05-2017 at 02:21 AM.
    Jon D.
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    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    The number on the box would be correct. It's very likely that the stamped part number you see is not available as a separate part from MB.

    It is not uncommon for individual parts that come in overall assemblies (such as a water pump, or an alternator, or a tandem pump, or a wiring harness, etc.), to have their own individual part numbers stamped on them, but these parts are not available separately ... they are only available as an entire assembly.

    So, for example an individual plastic end connector on a wiring harness may have an MB part number stamped on it, but it may be available ONLY as part of the assembled harness, NOT as an individual part. This is only an illustrative example.

    It's also very possible with a remanufactured part, that a core from an earlier (superseded) or related assembly, which fits correctly, is used as part of the reman. I think ultimately what matters is the number on the box -- assuming that the correct part was placed INTO the box

    Hope this helps,
    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Gerry is correct. The number on the pump is for the main casting, not the assembly. The EPC shows the complete assembly number, which will not be anywhere on the pump, only on the box. Same thing applies to cylinder heads, differentials, steering boxes, and a bunch of other items.

    The pump p/n you have (119-200-15-01) is the early style so I would expect it has the 119 impeller. (The late pump is p/n 119-200-21-01).


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Thanks, guys. I will install it this weekend and see if it corrects the running hot problem.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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  63. #36
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    UPDATE: Sorry for the delay. I installed the new (reman) water pump and got called out on a trip. Anyway, the new pump made no difference at all.

    Today, I installed a new Nissens radiator. My old (Behr) radiator had only been installed a few years earlier due to a leak in the main body of a prior radiator. Somewhere in the course of pulling out the old radiator today, some plastic pieces wound up on the garage floor. These pieces are an exact match for the section of the radiator neck (intake manifold-to-radiator) that normally breaks when you overtighten the top hose clamp. I can't say for sure I saw them fall out of the old radiator, but I'd say there is a very high likelihood they did.

    The neck on my old radiator is fine (see pic), and the neck on the previously leaking (replaced) radiator was fine too; so this stuff must have been hiding in the system since I bought the car. What is puzzling is that I thoroughly flushed the system out when I changed the water pumps (twice) and they never came out. In fact, I have flushed the system out several times prior to changing pumps and they must have been hanging up somewhere in the system.

    Maybe somewhere along the life of the car, a radiator was replaced for a broken neck and the pieces were left in the system. A piece could have shifted into a position to substantially block the coolant flow when I first installed the Graff pump back in April. That could have caused the sudden diminished cooling capacity that I have been dealing with since installing the Graff pump.

    Anyway, I'm thinking of going diving into the old radiator for the remaining piece(s) (looks like a 120-degree sector), but I've never torn into a radiator and I don't know what the internals look like. Anyone have any thoughts on the best way to check for the remaining piece(s)? Ideally, if I could fish the piece(s) out without damaging the radiator I could have a spare radiator.

    What a learning experience. I never would have thought this was causing the problem.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by emerydc8; 05-28-2017 at 01:52 AM.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    those "damn" radiator necks...they can screw things up for shure when going bad..and they will at some point...pretty "known" thing to happen...or...known issue that they turn brittle and break...but good stuff you sorted out that issue you had you can reinforce the new radiator neck..i think uncle kent has a kit for it ...honestly but measuring the inner diameter ,and sorting out a metal insert yourself,would do the trick.or be carefull not to overtighten the new one.To keep it from having to much pressure on the neck/tube when getting hot,will keep it abit more "stress free" when hot.
    greeetings from Norway
    1992 w124 500e "Blackbeauty"
    1989 w201 190e 2.5-16 Evo spec "Evoltwin"
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Jon,

    i hope for you this was your underlying problem. Please let us know the results of your test drive.

    I replaced my OE radiator quite a while back after a seam split. I now have a OEM Behr. So far no problems. My old 300E radiator just broke off on day when I saw a small leak and tried to tighten up the clamp. What a PITA. The replacement had a brass ring in the neck. It was just friction fit inside. A cheep temporary fix that is still being used.

    This "Cheepo Plastic" has been replacing the real thing in cars for some time now. I know it's the weight savings they say. Seems like some new technology is needed for radiator plastics OR go back to Aluminum or Brass.

    Anyway my $0.02 cents
    Terry

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    For all the talk about how "bad" they are, and they ARE, I was in this business for number of years when the all metal radiators were still common, and the truth is, we easily had triple the amount of trouble with those. Endless seam leaks, re-soldering, corroded cores. Every few years they had to be removed and sent out for some kind of repair. Bottom line is that the "all metal" ones sucked, too, the only favorable thing about them was that they would at least not usually rupture and fail suddenly like the plastic tanks. The plastic ones have been steadily improved over the years, too. Over the last 20 years or so, they have become a relatively rare failure point, and those failures have been much more of the "developing a leak" variety than the "sudden rupture" variety.
    I,m only saying this to point out that not everything that is older is always better...
    Last edited by Klink; 05-29-2017 at 12:56 AM.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by TerryA View Post
    Jon,

    i hope for you this was your underlying problem. Please let us know the results of your test drive.
    Just drove it in 100 degree, stop-and-go traffic and did not see more than 90C on the coolant temp! This was definitely the problem. How I missed these pieces is beyond me.

    Speaking of overtightening hose clamps, is there any objective torque setting to use on hose clamps or is this strictly a feel/experience technique? I've never seen any written guidance on this like you would on most other things you tighten, so I've always just tightened until I felt I was about to strip the threads if I went any further. Maybe that's too much.
    Jon D.
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    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Tighten until it doesn't leak....
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    CRAAAACK!. . . WOOPS

    So far, this has not happened while tightening the hose clamp on that plastic neck, but we have all been warned by the higher powers here.
    Trae
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    The hose clamp "reference value" torque (meaning that this isn't an absolute, like a cylinder head bolt, for example) is 2.5 Newton-meters, or about 1.84 ft/lb, or 22 inch/lbs
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    Im only saying this to point out that not everything that is older is always better...
    Now that I've reached a certain age, my wife points that out to me too.

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by Melville View Post
    Now that I've reached a certain age, my wife points that out to me too.
    I don't know if I would send that one back in her direction, just sayin'...
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    Just drove it in 100 degree, stop-and-go traffic and did not see more than 90C on the coolant temp! This was definitely the problem. How I missed these pieces is beyond me.
    Glad you have it fixed, Jon! Since the radiator is also new, there is a chance the old radiator (despite being only a few years old) may have had restricted flow or thermal transfer issues. I've had that problem once myself, on a different 124 chassis, chasing an overheating problem... I replaced everything else including a new dealer water pump because the radiator simply could not be at fault, at only 4 years old. Yep, you guessed it, new radiator cured it. That was back circa 1997 when the internet was still in diapers and forums were basically nonexistent...


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    At least I'm not the only one who threw parts at an overheating problem. I presumed that because there appeared to be no flow restriction when I flushed the radiator out with a garden hose the radiator was okay. It's nice to see temps back down below 95C all the time.
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    If radiators could be see-thru.....

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    At least I'm not the only one who threw parts at an overheating problem. I presumed that because there appeared to be no flow restriction when I flushed the radiator out with a garden hose the radiator was okay. It's nice to see temps back down below 95C all the time.
    Jon, I did the exact same thing with the 4-year-old radiator. I removed it to clean the fins, put a garden hose in one end, and there was plenty of flow out the other side - no restrictions. This also reinforced my assumption the radiator was fine. There was nothing visibly wrong externally, I believe there must have been some sort of corrosion or deposits internally that were reducing thermal transfer. Interestingly, the replacement radiator worked well for maybe 10 years, then the temps started to slowly creep upward again in summer, not as bad as the first time though. I think I found a tiny leak when pressure testing so I replaced the radiator again, and with the new radiator the temps were considerably lower. Weird stuff. On the flip side - I've also heard that sometimes new radiators can cause HIGHER temps, at least for a while. That is a bizarre phenomenon I don't fully understand, but IIRC Klink has seen this multiple times...


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Do you remember what brand your radiators were? I had a Behr and replaced it with a Nissens this time. Not sure there's much difference (except in price).
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    E500 n00b nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Jumping in, the Nissens I used to replace a Behr Original in the C126 is still operating wonderfully. It has been about 4 years in Houston heat.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Several years ago, I replaced the original OE Behr radiator in my E500 with a new Nissens from my parts stock. My original radiator burst when I was on the freeway, and I barely made it home before overheating the car.

    The Nissens made no difference in running temp. A replacement MB fan clutch from a 1992 500E, with 50K on it when it "donated" the fan clutch, has made a SLIGHT difference in running temps, but perhaps only 5 degrees C cooler. I have a brand new MB OE fan clutch ("Horton") that I need to install. I believe faulty fan clutch as been the culprit with my car running hot ever since I moved to Houston.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    Do you remember what brand your radiators were? I had a Behr and replaced it with a Nissens this time. Not sure there's much difference (except in price).
    In my case, old and new were Behr. I generally prefer Behr over Nissens if the price difference is small, but both are good quality IMO.


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by lowman View Post
    those "damn" radiator necks...they can screw things up for shure when going bad..and they will at some point...pretty "known" thing to happen...or...known issue that they turn brittle and break...but good stuff you sorted out that issue you had you can reinforce the new radiator neck..i think uncle kent has a kit for it ...honestly but measuring the inner diameter ,and sorting out a metal insert yourself,would do the trick.or be carefull not to overtighten the new one.To keep it from having to much pressure on the neck/tube when getting hot,will keep it abit more "stress free" when hot.
    greeetings from Norway
    Checked the old Behr and it does have a steel reinforced neck (pic). I haven't checked the new Nissens yet. Maybe that's the reason for the Behr being $25 more.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jon D.
    1994 E420
    1995 E420

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    The nissens if you look closely should display carbon fibers in the composite material. You should not have issue with the neck on Nissens.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by emerydc8 View Post
    Checked the old Behr and it does have a steel reinforced neck (pic). I haven't checked the new Nissens yet. Maybe that's the reason for the Behr being $25 more.
    Correct - the Behr has steel (aluminum?) reinforcing tubes, Nissens does not. As Louis noted, the Nissens could use different plastic compound.

    My issue with Nissens is that for some other models, they have a one-size-fits-most thing. For example, IIRC, the Nissens for the 124.133 chassis is not plug+play, it requires cutting off some tabs on the plastic tank to make it fit. This isn't required with the Behr. However, it appears the Nissens for 400E/500E fits without any hassles, which is great.


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    it appears the Nissens for 400E/500E fits without any hassles, which is great.
    Not 100% correct. I had to do some very minor "modification" to my Nissens to get it to fit. It was physically fine as far as going into the vehicle and all of the connections being in the right places, but it required a slight mod at the bottom of the radiator to adapt it (I believe having to do with installing angle brackets that were not present on the Nissens, but were on the Behr).

    I believe I documented the issue in my E500E HOW-TO on radiator installation/replacement, on this thread.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    AH - good to know, thanks Gerry!

    Jon, did your Nissens fit without any issues? Maybe the mods Gerry had to make are 036-specific?


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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Maybe the mods Gerry had to make are 036-specific?
    The mods I did were related to adding the angle brackets to hold the E500E transmission cooling line. I don't know if the .034 is the same or not, but I believe the radiator is the same SKU (per Nissens & Behr) for both W124 V-8 models.

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    Re: Testing Radiator Pressure

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Jon, did your Nissens fit without any issues? Maybe the mods Gerry had to make are 036-specific?

    The Nissens slid right into the mounts on the bottom. All I had to do was break off a plastic tab at the top right side so the radiator could lean forward and be secured by the clips.
    Jon D.
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