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Thread: OWNER – DerFuror

  1. #181
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    Thank you, Kind Sir. Please take some detailed photos of the popped-cap oiler tube. It would be good to get some documentation for the forum of what that looks like.
    Shall do. It will be the first one I remove tomorrow. I took a detour after lunch to the rotor & alternator install.

    Previous stethoscope testing told me that the bad tube was one of the last two on the right end. I used an o-ring pick to probe those tube ends to verify the popped-cap perpetrator.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

  2. #182
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by mistermiata View Post
    How did the timing chain guides look?
    I haven't scrutinized yet, but the upper looks alright at first sight. I'll know for sure upon removal.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

  3. #183
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by DerFuror View Post
    Shall do. It will be the first one I remove tomorrow. I took a detour after lunch to the rotor & alternator install.

    Previous stethoscope testing told me that the bad tube was one of the last two on the right end. I used an o-ring pick to probe those tube ends to verify the popped-cap perpetrator.
    Good work, doctor !!


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  5. #184
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by DerFuror View Post
    I haven't scrutinized yet, but the upper looks alright at first sight. I'll know for sure upon removal.
    The top/center ones with the "fingers" may break apart when you remove them. Try to avoid dropping plastic bits into the chain cavity.

    The rails you really want to inspect are the ones on the inside of the "V" in the head, you can only see the top tips of them. Make sure the tops are still intact. Look down below with a flashlight to see if the lower tips have snapped off, the lower tips may be sitting in a cavity inside the timing cover until replacement time.


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  7. #185
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    Cap & Rotor Update

    With receipt of the new parts, I chose to knock off a few quick jobs before concentrating on cam oiler tube removal.

    I started with rotor replacement (Bremi replacing Bosch) using Loctite Blue on the fastener threads.

    Rotor 003.jpg

    I identified the wires prior to replacing the cap (Bremi also replacing Bosch).

    Dist_Cap 012.jpg

    I discovered that the wires are Bremi. Looks like I’ve got a Bremi trifecta going on.

    I’ve taken several Bremi / Bosch comparison pics that I will post in a separate thread.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
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    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  9. #186
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    Alternator Upgrade Update

    I opened the Bosch voltage regulator box to discover that it was packed by the tentacle of globalism!

    Alternator_Repl 039.jpg

    The factory fresh VR brush is 7/16” (11.125mm) long.

    Alternator_Repl 040.jpg

    After a quick reassembly of VR & end cover, the 150A alternator is ready for installation.

    Alternator_Repl 041.jpg

    The 150A is slightly longer on the backside than the 110A. For a couple minutes I was worried this may prevent the reciprocation of my alternate removal process. But, the alternator does fit (& my right tricep is now gi-normous)!

    I’ve proven the ability to install the 150A alternator without removing the transmission cooler line coupling & sway bar.

    Alternator_Repl 042.jpg

    For lower harness connection, the D+ terminal is in a much more accessible location on the 150A.

    Alternator_Repl 044.jpg

    I have more informational pics that I will post in a separate thread.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 04-14-2016 at 09:25 PM. Reason: added link
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  11. #187

    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    the 150 amp alternator upgrade was the single most noticeable improvement I did on my car, I would recommend to anyone

  12. #188
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by Zuffenhausen View Post
    the 150 amp alternator upgrade was the single most noticeable improvement I did on my car, I would recommend to anyone
    Please excuse my ignorance: what does the 150 amp alternator do to improve the car?
    Max

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    The c126 has stock 90amp, but ac wipers and headlights took up almost 60. Radio with onboard power booster would dim the dash lights. 150 amp alt swap fixed that for my c126.
    1994 E500
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    The larger alternator has higher output at idle, which is the primary benefit. The stock alternator cannot supply enough current at idle with multiple electrical consumers on... i.e. at night with headlights, foglights, AC on (so auxiliary fans are running too), etc etc. MOST of the time this isn't a big deal.

    However if you add any electrical consumers... such as monster stereo amplifiers, or mondo overwattage headlight bulbs (with relays!), the stock unit should be upgraded. Both 143A and 150A units though about 2001 model year are a bolt-in (re-clocking may be needed for some), just make sure it has the same 2 post design as stock.


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  16. #191
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Alternator replacement is officially done. I bolted up the 150A alternator into its bracket today. I think the most challenging task of the job was the sleight of hand required to install the bottom mounting bolt with hose bracket into the bottom alternator bracket while simultaneously fighting the pesky lower radiator hose.

    Alternator_Repl 08.jpg Alternator_Repl 07.jpg

    The aluminum cam oilers were installed with no issue.

    Maintenance 022.jpg

    Here is the offending plastic tube. You can see the blown out bottom endcap. This prevented the proper volume of lubrication reaching its destination, thereby causing the “ticking” noise in the valve train.

    Maintenance 023.jpg

    Next task is to clean & prep the cover for reinstallation & to install a new upper guide assembly. I made a real effort by inserting several sets of old small tweezers alongside the tabs to try to release the two guide parts without damage (just to see if I could do it). I couldn’t. I got the top 4 tabs no problem, but it was too difficult to get the 2 underneath to release, so I broke them off & removed the part.


    Just consider the upper guide a "one & done" part. It goes on once.

    Maintenance 025.jpg

    ...oops...upper guide replacement will be delayed a few days. I erroneously thought I had already bought the parts & had them sitting on the shelf. Went & ordered OE from Naperville with the free shipping offer for a very reasonable price.
    Other that that, all is going well.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 04-08-2016 at 06:50 PM. Reason: guide update
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  18. #192
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    Re: Guide Rail

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    ...The rails you really want to inspect are the ones on the inside of the "V" in the head, you can only see the top tips of them. Make sure the tops are still intact. Look down below with a flashlight to see if the lower tips have snapped off, the lower tips may be sitting in a cavity inside the timing cover until replacement time.
    Top tip is broken off, but can't be removed from cavity. I can't see anything else.

    I bet a fair amount of that inner cam cover soiling above the timing chain area (in previously posted pic) is from broken guide dust as this piece gets occasionally ground down by the rotating timing chain.

    Similar to the cam cover, the inner timing chain housing outer wall is coated with a substance that is the same color as this plastic guide.

    Tmg_Chain_Guide 01.jpg
    Last edited by DerFuror; 04-11-2016 at 03:02 PM. Reason: added pics
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  20. #193
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    Left Cam Cover

    The left cam cover has been cleaned & its new gaskets are installed. I had to use a hot air gun to soften the old gasket enough for removal. I pulled it off in chunks. The spark plug orifice gaskets were more cooperative.

    Cam_Cover 006.jpg

    The gasket part number is displayed on the lower, mid-outer edge of the gasket. If you are installing these for the first time & can’t remember which gasket goes to the left or right cover, look for this part number.

    The number is followed by either an RA (right cover) or LA (left cover).

    Cam_Cover 007.jpg
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  22. #194
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    Oil Leak Source Discovered

    The replacement upper timing chain guides are arriving tomorrow, so today I decided to start disconnecting the more difficult sections of lower wiring harness to get it set for removal.

    Its been several days since I cleaned the right side of the engine block for the alternator job. Everything still looks nice, including the oil level sensor area (which is dry).

    Upon removing the various heat shields surrounding the starter, I was granted a prime view of the back of the block. Lo & behold, similar to the other side (but worse) was the source of the motor oil leak...the lower half moon section near the rear corner of the right side cam cover gasket.

    RR_Cam_Cvr_Leak 001.jpg RR_Cam_Cvr_Leak 002.jpg
    Its leaky days are numbered...
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

  23. #195
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Good work, Derf! I seem to recall that a certain M104 engine that GSXR purchased a couple of years ago had a similar "half-moon" leakage problem. Poor installation from the amateurs who sealed up the valve covers, methinks....

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Actually it was an E420 where a previous shop smeared RTV on both sides of the M119 v/c gaskets. Took HOURS to R&R and scrape all the orange crap off. New gaskets with no sealant fixed the oil leak on that one.

    The M104 oil leak you refer to appears to have been v/c bolts that were not fully tightened. Snugged them down to spec and over the next few months, the residual oil dribbling went away. No mooning issues though.


  25. #197
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Left side cam cover is reinstalled.

    The right side cam cover has been removed. Even with proper 1/4" drive stuff, it took a while to align & insert the tool into that infamous lower left cover bolt because of the ultra tight firewall to cover clearance.

    Cam_Cover 025.jpg

    I had to dick around just like the left cover to free the lower corner from the bearing cap & firewall. The oil separator/breather tube assembly was sacrificed in this liberation process. The tube came off with the cover. The separator remained in the head. Part of the separator broke off in the tube during cover removal The tube is salvageable, but I think I’ll start fresh & just replace both items.

    Cam_Cover 011.jpg

    The separator is located in a miserable location. I used a mirror to view it. The separator was partially loose but still quite staid. A handy strong wire pull hook removed it from its orifice. My actions with the tool had to be opposite from what the mirror image was telling me. The inversed activity left my brain with a strange, lingering “outside of the box” sensation…I kinda liked it.

    Cam_Cover 010.jpg

    The old plastic oilers & upper guides have been replaced. I looked inside the “V” & was happy to see the inner timing chain guide rail in one piece.

    Cam_Cover 019.jpg Cam_Cover 020.jpg

    The new oilers are in and looking good.

    Cam_Cover 021.jpg

    The old cover gaskets were removed using the same hot air gun technique. The cover is ready for cleaning.

    Cam_Cover 022.jpg

    Time to put together another parts order. While waiting, I'll disconnect the upper end of the Lower Wiring Harness, inspect the right side cam solenoid & replace the cap & rotor.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 04-14-2016 at 07:10 PM.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  27. #198
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    I took the opportunity to remove the entire remaining old petrified protective wiring loom from the engine compartment. Most crumbled away with a squeeze between my fingers.

    I replaced the majority of it with new Del City grey-stripe high temperature 0.25” ID split loom (Temperature range: -40° to 300° F / -40° to 149° C). The loom fits perfectly within the rear oil pan trough & the various block-mounted snap-in clamps.

    Good again for the next 20+ years.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    very nice work

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  31. #200
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by DerFuror View Post
    I took the opportunity to remove the entire remaining old petrified protective wiring loom from the engine compartment. Most crumbled away with a squeeze between my fingers.

    I replaced the majority of it with new Del City grey-stripe high temperature 0.25” ID split loom (Temperature range: -40° to 300° F / -40° to 149° C). The loom fits perfectly within the rear oil pan trough & the various block-mounted snap-in clamps.
    Good again for the next 20+ years.
    I know too well, when I did the 6liter conversion, lower harness, anti knock wire protection, EZL vacuum plastic pipe and the plastic pipe from
    the kickdown modulator that runs in the same protective tubing, were all changed ( the pipe to the EZL broke easily when touched and removed.

    Now it is time for the upper harness, the one from the E50 source, is ready to go in with the new polished AMG manifold, yes there will be
    Picture and more. Roger
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  33. #201
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    A delivery of new parts arrived today, allowing me to officially complete the cam oiler tube replacement job. The car now has:

    • Aluminum cam oiler tubes with new orings
    • new upper timing chain retainers
    • new oil separator & breather tube
    • new cover gaskets
    • new cover bolt washers


    I installed the new oil separator with breather tube in the right cylinder head. I stand corrected regarding my previous statement of the old breather tube being salvageable. The new tube is like rubber. It is pliable. It bends & can be squeezed. The old tube was solid like Bakelite. I thanked it for its service, then decommissioned it into the dustbin.

    Surprisingly, the right cam cover went on rather quickly & easily compared to how it came off & compared to the left side. I double-checked because I couldn’t believe it. Its infamous lower rear cover bolt (with new crush washer) also went on rather easily.

    I believe some of the previous gasket leaking was attributed to the difficulty previous hands may have had in trying to correctly torque the two infamous lower rear cover bolts from Hell. Proper tools on hand excommunicated most of their devilishness this time.

    Other jobs officially completed today:
    • new spark plugs
    • new distributor caps & rotors
    • new protective wiring loom replacement
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  35. #202
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Always good. Always right on the money.

    A sincere "Thank you!" for the report, Derf.




    Make sure in a few hundred miles that you check the cam cover bolts. You may want to give each of them another 1/8-1/4 of a turn after they have time to settle. Helps avoid seepage/leaks down the line a bit.

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  37. #203
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Finishing off yesterday's jobs allowed me to reinstall the PS reservoir today & thereby complete that job. The car now has:
    • new power steering short hose & aluminum washer
    • new reservoir gasket & oring
    • new reservoir filter


    The new lower wiring harness is scheduled for delivery & will be installed next.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

  38. #204
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    I'll ask the inevitable GSXR question with regard to the PS hoses ... the job that I admitted being too much of a wimp to actually do ... Did you replace the long hose from the pump to the steering box along the driver's side frame rail?

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    I'll ask the inevitable GSXR question with regard to the PS hoses ... the job that I admitted being too much of a wimp to actually do ... Did you replace the long hose from the pump to the steering box along the driver's side frame rail?
    I have indeed been contemplating its replacement. I have access to both ends. The motor mount cold-air tube is removed. The far hose clamp screw (steering box end) is facing the right direction. At the very least, I have new heat shield tubing that has been sitting on the shelf for a few years that I would like to install because the current shielding on the long hose is a little buggered up.

    The little S-hose appears relatively new (it is not covered in shielding). Both hoses are either the same age, or I'd suspect the long hose is older. I have to check receipts to verify age.

    UPDATE: Receipts show that the PS pump was resealed in 2006 & the steering box Pitman Arm seal replaced in 2007, but I didn't notice any hoses specifically itemized on the parts list...so hoses are at least 9 years old if replaced during Pitman Arm reseal.

    I'll probably disconnect the easy end to r&r the shielding. I'll replace the hose if I don't like its looks...and if I find my hose-pull pliers for the far-end.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 04-26-2016 at 06:02 PM. Reason: update info added
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    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  42. #206
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    I'd pull that S-hose and shield it. I know it's a pain....

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Happiness is a NEW Lower Wiring Harness!

    Lower_Harness 001.jpg
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  45. #208
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    production date 9.2015

  46. #209
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    New Lower Harness Installed

    The new lower wiring harness was installed today. Only a final tightening of the fasteners is required to finish the job.

    Lower_Harness 014.jpg

    Like others, I removed the plastic connector and the upper mounting bracket on the top end, tied a cord thru the large eyelet & taped loose ends. Working alone, I removed the old harness thru the bottom, then tied onto the new harness (after removing the same items) and installed from the bottom up.

    Lower_Harness 021.jpg

    The first connection I made was the large starter solenoid terminal which is roughly the midpoint of the harness & stabilizes the harness for the ensuing tasks.

    The most challenging part of the job was figuring out how best to start the small Philips-head screw for the starter solenoid small wire. I decided to remove the small stabilizer bar (connecting member) to provide space for two-handed access to the starter area. Removal was easy, and doing so allowed me to actually start the small screw by hand, then finish tightening it with a stubby screw driver.

    The lower mounting bracket was installed over the AT dipstick bracket with a perfect fit & what I believe is a better mounting order than the reverse.

    This was a very timely & important replacement. As previously mentioned, I’m surprised I didn’t encounter any electrical issues because of the deteriorating condition of the old harness.

    Overall, I’m very pleased with the progress of the various replacements & upgrades being made. I still have more to do & am looking forward to them because I know the end result will be an ever more enjoyable ride.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 05-06-2016 at 02:51 PM. Reason: added link
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
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  48. #210
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    OWNER – DerFuror

    Good work Derf, I did the same with the Phillips screw, wish she was a bolt, I looked thru my mb nuts and bolts bucket for one but no joy.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
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  49. #211
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    The rain kept me inside today

    I made the best of today's inclement weather.

    Transmission 020.jpg

    I became vehemently pissed recently when once again I walked into my garage & it looked like a gunshot victim bled out from under my car…ATF blood…F*CK!!!!

    A recent thread discussed the various aspects of garaging an E500E…duration, environment, geographical location, etc. My Texas car is usually stored from the end of November to the 2nd week of May. All I can say is that my transmission can’t seem to handle Northeast winter storage. A leak appears every couple years. I believe I locate & correct it. A winter or two later, ATF covers my garage floor again.

    Receipts show that a major AT service took place in 2008. The front pump & seal was replaced…no itemized documentation regarding any other AT components (specific orings, etc.), but the overall cost strongly suggests that a gasket rebuild kit must have been applied. A couple years ago after a mid-winter bleed-out, I replaced the gear selector seal. I did everything I could to address this issue without removing the AT (the job was about 90% of an AT removal). The job appeared to be successful. This time around, the leak source was proving difficult to pinpoint, but seemed to be coming from the same general location!

    This AT is mocking me. I quickly decided I’ve had enough of its shenanigans. I’m going to find out exactly where the leak source is, eliminate it & replace whatever else needs replacement.

    I’ve had past-experience with transmissions (working for my Father), but I had always hated dealing with ATs. I’ve grown a big brass set since then. With several items already removed for previous jobs, I dropped this whore of a 500E AT fast…

    Transmission 015.jpg

    ...the only delays were for general documentation, & for noodling out the best way to address a couple key tasks…specifically the removal of the Control Pressure Cable apparatus to better access the top two transmission fasteners (both items are located between the back of the engine block & firewall…limited clearance & hard to get to) & removal of both sets of flexdisc fasteners to provide proper clearance for hassle-free final removal.

    Transmission 009.jpg

    All for the beste
    Last edited by DerFuror; 05-07-2016 at 09:38 AM. Reason: added more content
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    CSI AT

    I found a culprit (perhaps the culprit). The Modulator Valve oring was pretty deformed & extruded. It may have been installed incorrectly. When the Modulator Valve was removed, the oring remained in the bottom of the hole as if it were installed in the hole first & then the valve tightened down upon it afterward.

    Transmission 029.jpg

    I remember reading about other members who ran into a similar situation a few years ago.

    Anyway, most every oring is getting replaced this time around.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 05-09-2016 at 08:06 PM. Reason: added link
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Derf, FYI... if you pull the front pump to replace the big O-ring, you'll need the special tool set to compress the reverse piston springs, and sleeves to re-install the piston without buggering up the new lip seals. (Don't ask how I know.) The SG Motorsports tool kit on eBay is ~$225 delivered and has all the stuff you'll need, including the tool to press the B1 cover so you can replace that O-ring without filling up the swear jar.

    Most all the other seals are self-explanatory; I'd skip the rear output shaft seal if it's dry (these almost never leak). Don't forget to replace the speed sensor plastic cup O-ring, buy a new plastic cup as you may need to break it apart to remove... same O-ring is used on the plastic cup to housing, as is used on the sensor itself, so buy two of the same O-rings for that location.


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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Seeing as gsxr has been remiss in providing HOW-TOs for this forum, we're all looking to you for a comprehensive 722.3 "re-seal" HOW-TO, Derf !!

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    Transmission reseal

    Yesterday, I plugged orifices then scrubbed the flotsam off the tranny with brakleen, toothbrush, rags & compressed air. Afterwards, I performed a visual inspection, then started removing, cleaning & replacing items one at a time.

    My new motto: Speak softly & carry a Big ratchet. I’m showing the AT that I’m not half-stepping this time...I'm pulling out the big guns right away!

    Transmission 026.jpg

    The various orings for the kickdown solenoid valve, reaction valve, overload protection switch & modulator are now replaced (OLP switch & reaction valve put up a moderate removal defiance, but I assertively persuaded them to see things my way).

    The front & rear seals appear fine, so I’m leaving them alone.



    PS: It is rumored that only Prince, the Artist himself, has more stashed away in his personal archives that does gsxr. If we could lobby him to maybe release only just his V8 HOW-TO version...it would prevent other members from developing acute irreversible keyboard-flatfingeritis!
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    New Oil Strainer & Level Sensor Orings

    These are going in today along with a new oil pan gasket & drain plug ring. I believe this will complete the engine-side of Operation Leak Elimination.

    Oil_Strainer 002.jpg
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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  61. #217
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    That pickup screen is a very delicate operation. I think there's a HOW-TO on that somewhere. Cracks me up that it's a 110 part number


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    New Oil Strainer & Level Sensor Orings

    I let the oil pan drain for a couple hours this morning before removing it for the first time in my ownership. I was curious what I’d find inside. There were a few small bits of timing chain guide, but the most interesting sight was the strainer intake full of the rest of the timing chain bits (the strainer screen was doing a great job!).

    Strainer 009.jpg

    The strainer housing was most likely original (or the 2nd one installed) because it was petrified. I had to break it off in pieces (the vast majority of crap in the pan pic is this strainer housing.

    Strainer 010.jpg

    Similar to gvz, I had to rotate the crank slightly to gain clearance for sensor removal. The sensor clip came off easily using a long screwdriver. The orings were most likely original (or the 2nd ones installed) because they, too, were petrified & had to be broken off.

    Strainer 008.jpg Strainer 002.jpg

    I thoroughly cleaned the sensor without stressing its wire. Lubed-up with oil, the orings went on nicely. The sensor pressed firmly into its orifice.

    Strainer 003.jpg

    I tried several different methods to get that retaining clip on until I found the one that worked for me. I have long fingers & was actually able to push & hold the clip into its initial position. I then inserted the same long screwdriver between the 2 fingers holding the clip & pushed it home.

    The new strainer housing is nice & rubbery and ready for the next era of service along with its new screen.

    Strainer 006.jpg

    New oil pan gasket is on with permatex. Screws are all on but will get final torqued tomorrow.

    Another key job is crossed off the list.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Once I get my newly powder coated valve covers from Honch, I too will be doing the upper job as well as the lower to collect all the droppings from the chain guide R/R. Good work again Derf, thanks for illustrating the way and combined with other HOW-TO, its going to be a snap. (wonders aloud... do we need permatex?)
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    ... (wonders aloud... do we need permatex?)
    Operation Leak Elimination. Good ol' permatex is gonna be going places..
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    OWNER – DerFuror

    Post a pic of your tube of permatex if you can...
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    Post a pic of your tube of permatex if you can...
    The "Chocolate syrup" one. Aviation Form-a-Gasket #3
    Attached Images Attached Images
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    OWNER – DerFuror

    Thanks
    Last edited by nocfn; 05-09-2016 at 10:03 PM.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    I used blue Hylomar on an OE gasket last time. Tighten the bolts in stages (i.e., 5Nm first, before going to 9Nm spec). Check the bolts after a few hundred miles and multiple hot/cold cycles, you will likely find they will need to be re-torqed. The lower gasket can be a real PITA to get leak-free.


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  72. #225
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Dave's procedure is generally what I use for both the lower oilpan gasket, and the transmission oilpan at the time that an ATF change is required. No Permatex is needed -- I HATE that stuff with a passion.

    If MB's instructions don't explicitly call for the use of a liquid sealant, then I don't use it. Bottom line.

    Torque the gasket/bolts down to the factory specified torque. It's likely it will leak within a few dozen or hundred miles after you do this. Then you just go back and re-torque, and 90% of the time you're good to go for a long time into the future, if not forever. If you have seepage/leak, do same again one more time and that should fix it.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    I used blue Hylomar on an OE gasket last time. Tighten the bolts in stages (i.e., 5Nm first, before going to 9Nm spec). Check the bolts after a few hundred miles and multiple hot/cold cycles, you will likely find they will need to be re-torqed. The lower gasket can be a real PITA to get leak-free.

    Yes, right about that, what I experienced after A year and some months, first I was suspecting the front crank sealring.
    As it turned out, leak from a long standstill with a cleaned motor. A few annoying drops but when you consider that oil
    is standing over that bottom seal constantly, for the new (2:nd) gasket I will use the Dirko-S made by Elring
    non corrosive to aluminum, very good adhession and quite expensive...
    '92 500E 6.0 AMG
    '93 400E 5.0 AMG
    '96 E50 AMG
    '96 CL500
    '99 C43 AMG

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Ditto what Gerry said. For the record, I never have any issues with ATF/tranny pan leaks, when using OE/OEM gaskets and correct torque specs. (And almost every single time it seems the pan is leaking, the actual source has been a seal leaking above the pan, never the pan itself!)

    The engine oil lower pan, uggghhhh. I've tried various methods and have never been able to get the blasted thing to seal perfectly on the first try. Sometimes it's trans-pan syndrome, where the leak source is above the pan... difficult to chase down unless your engine is spotless.


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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    I used blue Hylomar on an OE gasket last time. Tighten the bolts in stages (i.e., 5Nm first, before going to 9Nm spec). Check the bolts after a few hundred miles and multiple hot/cold cycles, you will likely find they will need to be re-torqed. The lower gasket can be a real PITA to get leak-free.

    which one GSXR: http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resou...FVYdgQod5qIJJA I have Gen-U-Whine bits from MB and had not planned any type of snake oil....
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: New Oil Strainer & Level Sensor Orings

    Quote Originally Posted by DerFuror View Post
    New oil pan gasket is on with permatex. Screws are all on but will get final torqued tomorrow.
    Oil pan was final torqued today & both tranny shifter linkrod bushings are now renewed.

    Front: Shift Linkrod 017.jpg

    Rear: Linkrod_Bushing 005.jpg

    Shouldn't have to look at either of them for quite a while.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    New O2 Sensor Installed

    Thankfully the 500E utilizes the Model 129 oxygen sensor design. Smart & simple in which all work is performed underneath the car on the outside as depicted on pages 3 & 4 of FSM 1480 – Replacing Oxygen Sensor.

    I used a standard 7/8" sensor removal socket on a 1/2" breaker bar. Removal was easier than I was expecting.

    O2_Sensor 007.jpg

    The exact Bosch replacement comes "pre-greased" with anti-seize.

    O2_Sensor 002.jpg O2_Sensor 005.jpg

    Torque to 55Nm / 40 ft lbs.

    O2_Sensor 006.jpg

    Nothing was really wrong with the old sensor, but I took the opportunity to replace it while I already had open access to its location.

    One more item off the spare parts shelf & another job crossed off the list.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Tranny Insulation Blanket removed

    The EPC illustration alludes that a portion of my insulation blanket is MIA. I removed what was left.

    Insulation Blanket.jpg

    To extract it, I removed all the required heat shields & fasteners (unhidden & hidden) with the exception of one (not disturbing any hydraulic lines until the replacement blanket goes in).

    At first look when I laid out the old blanket on the ground, it appeared like a dead manta washed up on the beach...but then I realized it looked more like the tunic the dirtbags from the Mad Max movie wear...grime & all!

    Insul_Blanket.jpg

    Here's what the tranny tunnel looked with it.

    Insul_Blanket 001.jpg

    Here's what the tranny tunnel looks like without it.

    Tunnel 003.jpg

    Moving right along...
    Last edited by DerFuror; 05-11-2016 at 01:44 PM.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Power Steering Hoses

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    I'll ask the inevitable GSXR question with regard to the PS hoses ... the job that I admitted being too much of a wimp to actually do ... Did you replace the long hose from the pump to the steering box along the driver's side frame rail?
    For sh*ts & giggles after removing the tranny blanket, I was also able to remove the three fasteners that hold the steering unit heat shield. Later, I'll see if it allows me to get to the hoses any easier.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Old vs new:


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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Nice! I'll look forward to renewing.

    Based on the pic, it does look like I'm missing almost half of mine...

    Insul_Blanket_Comparo.jpg

    Hmm, gotta pimp
    xtra hard this week-
    end to afford it...
    Last edited by DerFuror; 05-11-2016 at 05:42 PM. Reason: pic
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    What's all the talk about tranny blankets about?
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
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    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

  87. #236
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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  89. #237
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    Scavenge this!

    Quote Originally Posted by DerFuror View Post
    Hmm, gotta pimp
    xtra hard this week-
    end to afford it...
    After some profitable pimpin', I had nothing better to do while waiting for parts to arrive besides poke thru the neglected parts shelf. I discovered some leftover Thermo-Tec exhaust pipe wrap…just enough to fully cover the crossover pipe.

    What the heck, I think I will…especially now since no nasty fluids should be dripping down to foul it.

    Crossover_Pipe_Wrap 004.jpg Crossover_Pipe_Wrap 003.jpg
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Re: OWNER – DerFuror

    YEAH BABY!!

    AP.jpg

    The Snail arrived today with my parts, including the new transmission tunnel insulation & a complimentary year's supply of shipping airbags.

    This is a thing of beauty compared to the sad, soggy, sorry remnant it is replacing.

    Time to go work again!

    Transmission Insulation 002.jpg

    Transmission Insulation 003.jpg
    Last edited by DerFuror; 06-02-2016 at 10:54 AM.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Out with the Old, In with the New

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Don't forget to replace the speed sensor plastic cup O-ring, buy a new plastic cup as you may need to break it apart to remove... same O-ring is used on the plastic cup to housing, as is used on the sensor itself, so buy two of the same O-rings for that location
    New speed sensor cup with oring installed.

    New vs. Old

    Speed Sensor Comparo.jpg

    Also:
    • re-installed the Bowden cable control box with its new oring.
    • removed old water drain duct that channels water from the blower motor area under the windshield, down underneath the car around the bell housing to atmosphere.
    • test fit the transmission tunnel insulation.
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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    Stay wrenching, my friends…

    It’s not often that I find a few free minutes these days, but when I do, I upgrade my 500E.

    Brake Hose 001.jpg

    Found myself with some free time today because of damp weather. I headed out to the garage & finally replaced the front brake hoses with the braided sst Deerfields I had sitting on the parts shelf for too long.

    Brake Hose 002.jpg Brake Hose 003.jpg Brake Hose 005.jpg Brake Hose 006.jpg

    Relatively quick & easy job. Love their look & construction.
    Last edited by DerFuror; 06-28-2016 at 08:47 PM. Reason: added link
    " Destination ???, It's the ride that takes you there! "
    1993 500E W124.036 040/271
    1965 220b W111.010 Heckflosse

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