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Thread: OWNER - JC220

  1. #61
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by bing View Post
    Unless GSXR has in his files?

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Front brakes appear to be the late 036 brakes, 320x30mm, which are a very nice upgrade from the early/smaller 300x28.

    Cool, thanks for confirming that


    Tonight I had had some spare time so went out to do a few more checks on the power drain. I know it’s futile until the new wiring looms get here but it’s bugging me obviously! I want to get to the bottom of it as soon as I can.


    I pulled all the relays & fuses out of the Fuse box at once- the current draw of 1.5 remains. (The other .03 is normal as my 300E-24 confirmed- clock etc. So where the error lies is 1.5 constant. Since it was the only item readily assessable to disconnect- I also unhooked the multiplug from the ABS Pump- no difference. (In the event a can error could have let it stay on)


    So I guess the lower harness or a bad diode in the alternator are the primary suspects since most everything else should have been powered down with all the fuses / relays pulled. The car charges quite high at about 14.7 volts also- I’ll get the alt. pulled tomorrow night and in for testing / rebuilding this week. If I unhook the alternator main cable and connect the multimeter between the cable & alternator it should tell me if the alternator is draining amps before I even remove it from the car.

    IMG_0705.JPG

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    have you disconected the alternator itself?
    if the diodes is bad..you will have a draw there..

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post

    The car charges quite high at about 14.7 volts also- I’ll get the alt. pulled tomorrow night and in for testing / rebuilding this week. If I unhook the alternator main cable and connect the multimeter between the cable & alternator it should tell me if the alternator is draining amps before I even remove it from the car.

    IMG_0705.JPG

    yes...disconnect the main power down to the alternator before you do anything else..i cant understand why you havent done this before..

    so..try it out before you take it out

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by lowman View Post
    have you disconected the alternator itself?
    if the diodes is bad..you will have a draw there..
    No not yet but I now strongly suspect the alternator from reading up about diode faults. The current draw of 1.5amps is right about where a faulty alternator can cause.


    The alternator is so low down and inaccessible I will jack the car up on 4 jack stands tomorrow night so I can get proper access to it so I can unhook the cables & test at the battery again. I didnt unhook it before because I can't even see the cables let alone unhook them from above.

    The draw is so 100% consistent at 1.5amps all the time I test that I don’t really think it’s a short


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    That really does look like glass - awesome. Now I need to do mine - anymore photos of the entire car?! I bet it looks awesome.

    Be careful with the brakes - IIRC both the front brake calipers are different when we had it - not sure if they've been sorted yet? I painted all the brake calipers red, looks like the fronts got ground back to be repainted again but that obviously never happened.

    Oil tubes on the pre-facelift are metal from factory - the facelift E500 came with the plastic units.

    Would be nice to have the correct Hella headlights on it. I think keep it facelift and fit the E500 Hella's - facelift suits this car somehow probably because of the BBS alloys etc, even though its not much work to revert it back to a 500E if you can get decent rust free panels. I personally prefer the prefacelift look - more aggressive IMO.

    Are you going to retain the BBS alloys?

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Actually, quite a fair number if not MOST 1993 models (pre-facelift) also came with the plastic tubes. It was a changeover that was phased in during that model year. It's safe to say that all 1991 and 1992 cars would have the metal cam oiler tubes, however.

    The primary E500E boffins around here, GSXR and Klink, likely know the exact chassis number where the changeover was made.


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    Re: New E500 Owner- HELP! Battery drain problems

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Wow, I see the BW thread was closed after some fisticuffs. The whole "eco junk" thing is drastically overblown. Replace the upper & lower engine harness and ETA, and you're done. The rest of the harnesses on the car see very little if any degradation of the insulation. And, the new harnesses have good insulation and will not fail like the originals. ~$600 in new harnesses plus a good used late-datecode ETA and it's all a non-issue. Those guys were ready to send every late W124 to the crusher over that? Puh-leeze.

    What date did the ETA wiring change? The one on my 500E is dated 1997.

    1992 500E
    1994 E500
    2011 E550 4Matic

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by e500.org View Post
    Are you going to retain the BBS alloys?
    I want those wheels sooooo bad!
    Greg
    '94 E500
    '03 E320 4Matic Wagon (W210)
    '08 G55

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    Re: New E500 Owner- HELP! Battery drain problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Maui View Post
    What date did the ETA wiring change? The one on my 500E is dated 1997.
    1997 could still be in the danger zone. I think 1998 and later is OK, but "for sure" anything from the late 1991-1995 time frame is going to be bad juju on the E500E. I think this extended into 1996 for some non-.036 models.

    I have always said that people should buy ETAs and harnesses made in 1999 or later to be sure that they are out of the danger zone with the bad wiring.

    In your case, Ken, I wouldn't sweat it unless you start having problems that are ETA-related. More and more of them (even post 1998) are starting to wear out mechanically from age and use, in addition to the wiring inside from the pre-1997/8 ones.

    My two cents
    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by e500.org View Post
    That really does look like glass - awesome. Now I need to do mine - anymore photos of the entire car?! I bet it looks awesome.

    Be careful with the brakes - IIRC both the front brake calipers are different when we had it - not sure if they've been sorted yet? I painted all the brake calipers red, looks like the fronts got ground back to be repainted again but that obviously never happened.

    Oil tubes on the pre-facelift are metal from factory - the facelift E500 came with the plastic units.

    Would be nice to have the correct Hella headlights on it. I think keep it facelift and fit the E500 Hella's - facelift suits this car somehow probably because of the BBS alloys etc, even though its not much work to revert it back to a 500E if you can get decent rust free panels. I personally prefer the prefacelift look - more aggressive IMO.

    Are you going to retain the BBS alloys?

    Sure here’s a couple more pics taken just now. It really looks great out in the light but it’s raining quite a bit lately so it’s almost impossible to get half decent pics of it! I have a new antenna to fit that’s why it’ taped up- the bodyshop wanted to wet flat in under the seal. I’ll get better photos once it’s out of the garage again.


    I double checked both front brake callipers someone has already taken care of that mismatching set you mentioned. There is no red paint on them at all & the discs look much fresher at the front. Plus the pads & wear sensors are pretty much new so I think the front callipers have been changed only about 3k miles ago.


    I didn’t know the early ones had the metal oil tubes already- I guess they are original to the car then no bad thing. Yes the E500 look is growing on me too the car does look great. The BBS wheels look quite tired now especially since the paintwork looks so good now. The car is fitted with 4x brand new quality 300km/hr tyres so I may re-spray the wheels to make use of the new tyres.


    But I am also checking with my supplier if they can get me a new set of 18 split rim BBS wheels with staggered rear tyres. At the moment the tyres front & rear are 245 wide. However at the back of the car the inner fender can take around another 1.5 to 2 inches of tyre. Front & rear rims are 8.5 wide currently. If I buy new split rims I want like 10 inch rims at the rear!

    IMG_0708.JPG IMG_0709.JPG IMG_0710.JPG


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I got the alternator unhooked- but it made no difference


    However, I did get a little further- I took another look at the battery connections themselves- there was the big main cable and a smaller one bolted onto the side of the battery terminal.


    When I unhook the smaller cable & re-test the car it comes up totally fine- no draw. (Just 0.03 Amp as per my 300E-24) All of the 1.5Amp drain only occurs as soon as I hook the smaller cable up again.


    All of the interior lights / alarm etc still works fine with the smaller cable unhooked. I didn’t want to try starting the car or anything but it seems like the second cable doesn’t affect it.....


    The million dollar question- what would that smaller cable feed? If someone might know or have access to diagrams it might save me pulling the car apart to trace it


    I do hope it’s going to an amp or something!!

    IMG_0714.JPG



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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I believe the smaller cable is a direct feed to the CAN modules. Try removing one module at a time and see if the drain goes away...?


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    I believe the smaller cable is a direct feed to the CAN modules. Try removing one module at a time and see if the drain goes away...?

    Ok that's the 4 modules under the black cover- how do they come out?

    I tried to pull them before but couldnt figure out how they were supposed to come out. The cable connections are underneath I wasnt sure if they just pull stright up & out..... I have tried googling it but nothing comes up

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    They pull straight up and out. You can use a flat-blade screwdriver to go back & forth to wedge each end's tab upward.

    Be careful and don't force anything, but you will see them begin to wedge upward at each end and eventually it will loosen so you can pull the module out with your hand.

    Indeed, that small cable to the battery is a direct power feed to the CAN (computer) box underhood. That's all it powers, and it's "live" all the time, not key-switched power.

    Strange that something in the CAN box would be drawing power, but you gotta follow where things take you.....

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thanks guys- I did what you said & removed all 4 Can modules..... something strange happened

    I tested the battery again before I started- right at 1.58 as per usual. (1.5Amp draw present + normal 0.03 Amp that is the alarm / clock)

    When I tested with all 4 modules removed- bingo trouble 1.5amp power drain gone. I tried putting one module at a time back in starting at the one nearest the centre of the car & testing again each time.

    No change until the last module- 011 545 97 32. On the first test for a few seconds it hung at 1.58 then fell back to 0.03. Ever since I have tried removing it / disconnecting the battery several times and the car sits at 0.03 Amps!

    On very close inspection about 12 of the little pins under that last module has miniscule traces of rust. (From the casing pins I think)

    Could it be that removing & re-inserting them has restored 100% connectivity again & resolved a CAN Issue?

    It’s great the battery drain is seemingly gone but it seems to good to be true...... I have the car still on the meter for a long term test. I will check it again in a couple of hours and then again tomorrow morning before I go to work with the battery still hooked up.

    If it stays away for good then it must have been micro corrosion on the terminals- how else could it clear up like that?

    IMG_0715.JPGIMG_0717.JPG

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    perhaps some light dielectric grease on the pins before bolting it up may be in order to combat moisture
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Well that was short lived- I checked after about 40 minutes & the 1.5amp drain was back. I left the meter hooked up & as soon as I pulled out that last module 011 545 97 32 the drain disappears entirely.


    At least I know where the problem lies now...... I will research wiring diagrams and see what exactly that module does / powers.


    I got an email today to say the upper harness has been dispatched from Germany- it will be here hopefully Friday or early next week.


    Maybe I should hold off until I get that replaced & try again? Or should I look at the module itself since this is the same one that had the blown 10 amp fuse on top. Any modules I see on ebay look a bit ratty- if the engine harness replacement doesn’t solve the problem should I send that module to BBA reman or similar for testing / repair?


    All the wiring in the CAN housing and under the fuse box is all perfect- not degrading.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    If the "last" module you are referring to has the fuses on top, it's the "base" module. I believe it provides power to all the other modules, so you still have a bit of diagnosis to do as it could be any of them at this point.
    '94 E500 (744) | '94 E500 (199)         Misc. snapshots

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by Glen View Post
    If the "last" module you are referring to has the fuses on top, it's the "base" module. I believe it provides power to all the other modules, so you still have a bit of diagnosis to do as it could be any of them at this point.
    Yes that's the one- with the fuses on top.

    Pulling the 2 centre modules has no difference at all. So it seems the E-Gas and ASR has nothing to do with it at all.

    Pulling the one nearest the centre of the car the draw drops to 0.21 Amps. It is the LH module.

    I am satisifed I guess that it's not an Antenna or Amp etc that's causing the problem. It is now down to the Basic Module or hopefully the ECO junk upper engine harness causing trouble.

    It seems best that I replace that upper harness first and go from there

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    100% working harness with no chance of internal wire shortings should give you the confidence that you are looking for. If you have codes, clear them and check after 20 or so miles and they will be gone most likely too.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  26. #82
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    On reflecting on the testing last night it's clear that the Base Module is sending power to the LH Module.

    When all 4 modules are in place a draw of 1.5Amps occurs. If the Base module is pulled the Amp draw zero's out. If only the LH Module is pulled the draw drops to 0.21Amps (With Base module in place)- what the base module is using trying to power up the missing LH Module perhaps. The base module also seems intermittent- at times it's dead-other time's it's consistently active.

    There is a strong chance the new wiring harnesses will cure the problems.

    But I have also seen threads where the base module can be faulty and cause all sorts of issues with cars- so I also sourced a good used 500E base module from USA. It will be here in around 2 weeks.

    If the new harnesses do not cure the power drain then I will swap out the base module. Since it's a very expensive part new I think having a spare Base Module on the shelf for the 500E is a very good idea anyway while they are still readily available used.

    The 500's base module also had a blown fuse when I bought the car (ABS / ASR lights on)- the base module might have been damaged by repeated jump starting & who knows what else over the past 10 years whilst the car was laid up.

    I will update with pics when I get the old upper harness out to see what state it was in
    Last edited by JC220; 04-12-2016 at 10:41 AM.

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  28. #83
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Indeed, as a long-term owner, it's an excellent idea to have spares for all four CAN computer modules, as well as the fifth "DM" (Diagnostic Module) located inside the vehicle. MAF and ETA spares, as well.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    FYI: The DM module, located inside the car in the passenger footwell near the alarm modules, is only used on North American models with a Check Engine light. Euro/Japan cars do not have the DM or CEL.

    Otherwise, I agree, it's good to have spares for all 4 CAN modules, and TEST YOUR SPARES before storing them. The E-GAS module can be very, very difficult to locate used as it's 036-specific; and region-specific (Euro models have different p/n than USA, etc).


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Doh! Yes, I forgot that the small DM module in the car is only for US cars with "CHECK ENGINE" lights, and that you have a non-US car.

    Sorry about that. Carry on !

    Merc Man, which is outside of Hayle, in Cornwall near the southwestern tip of England, should be able to source you a used E-GAS computer, if you can't find one via eBay or other sources. Chris is the owner there. Telephone: +44 1736 757777 or parts@mercman.net Web site: http://www.mercman.net

    Some years ago, I purchased a new (never used) 1992 "Euro" LH module (+~10 HP over 1993-1994 US LH units) from Mercman, when they were located down on the coast in Southampton. They moved out to Cornwall a few years ago.




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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thanks for the tips & parts contact info- yes I will keep an eye out for the other 3 spare modules also in the coming weeks.


    I noticed my car had a large BEHR Oil Cooler at the front- this is fantastic.... except when you want to remove the Alternator! Lines everywhere under there. From reading up I see the Oil Cooler is also Euro specific.



    I am pretty sure I will have to remove the ARB to get the alternator out (Or the viscous fan & Radiator) which is OK since it needs the inner & outer bushings replaced ideally. For right now I have plety to do replacing the upper & lower harnesses, get the power drain repaired and continue with the major service as planned. Then with my next parts order in a couple of weeks I'll get genuine MB inner & outer front ARB bushes & pull the alternator at the same time for a rebuild since it's 24 years old


    IMG_0711.JPG

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Carl at 140.uk is also a good source for modules and EZL's. Sound guy just like Chris the mercman. Oh I haven't forgotten part numbers for uk headlamps...
    1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
    1997 S 600 L (164kmiles sold )
    2004 ML270 (64kmiles remap oil burner sold)
    2001 CLK55 AMG (79kmiles)

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    UK/Ireland LH traffic facelift Headlamp part numbers:

    124 820 37 57 LH
    124 820 38 57 LH

    Retail - £246+vat. Brentford, London Dealer
    1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
    1997 S 600 L (164kmiles sold )
    2004 ML270 (64kmiles remap oil burner sold)
    2001 CLK55 AMG (79kmiles)

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by bing View Post
    UK/Ireland LH traffic facelift Headlamp part numbers:

    124 820 37 57 LH
    124 820 38 57 LH

    Retail - £246+vat. Brentford, London Dealer
    Fantastic- thank you for the part numbers I am checking with my supplier now.

    Googling the part numbers shows they are Facelift design which is correct for the car as it stands now

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post

    Googling the part numbers shows they are Facelift design which is correct for the car as it stands now
    Correct !!
    1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
    1997 S 600 L (164kmiles sold )
    2004 ML270 (64kmiles remap oil burner sold)
    2001 CLK55 AMG (79kmiles)

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    At long last the new upper harness arrived today from MB I got it fitted in place this evening. New lower Harness still a few days out.


    Check out the pics- I don't think my original could have been in any worse condition than this- remember too this car was running 100% AOK!


    Lower harness to be here next week- I have also ordered a blink code reader (With 1mm pins) as per the DIY on here so I can check & clear all fault codes. Unfortunately like most parts for this car I had to order this from the USA- so it'll take a couple of weeks to get here.


    I see a build date of 1992 on the ETA Harness (Near the big round plug on the firewall) now

    So I will be taking it off & re-wiring it soon or trying to find a matching later build replacement. I suspect as soon as I touch the ETA wiring it will crumble inside. Here in the UK the likelihood of finding a later build correct ASR 5.0 ETA is very slim. Besides I have re-wired them before and my ETA is functioning totally fine currently with cruise control etc fully functional.


    The biggest challenge will be figuring out how to take apart that big round plug on the firewall for re-wiring- see the pic. Have you guys seen this type of plug re-wired before?


    That part number visible on the back plug comes up as PLUG SOCKET - Mercedes-Benz (140-540-15-81). If I order this I wonder will I just get the cap off it or the complete plug which can be assembled over the pins again- suitable for rewiring?


    Any M119 ETA Rewire threads I have seen have the small round plug like M104 ETA’s

    IMG_0732.JPGIMG_0729.JPGIMG_0726.JPGIMG_0725.JPGIMG_0731.JPGIMG_0730.JPGIMG_0735.JPGIMG_0736.JPGIMG_0737.JPG


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Hold up- I googled that plug part no & found this-


    http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140...connector.html

    I received part no. 140 540 15 81 which actually has a number 140 540 16 81 on it, and it is a whole wire harness for ETA with connector. And the price is less than 20 EUR. This is really a surprise.

    I tried to remove only that part from the new connector which is broken on my old connector but the operation was successful only in a half way. Situation for my connector in this moment is: it is not nice to see but it is safe and it is under the plastic cover under the hood anyway. I used some nice elastic rope and plastic wire to bundle the female and male connector together. I will check in in the next year more often but I am 100% sure it will last.

    So if I knew that I can get a whole wire harness for 18 EUR then I would buy it and send it with ETA to BBA-reman, but now it is too late.

    My conclusion is that at BBA they actually did not replace my wire harness which means that the old one was still ok. This means that most probably ETA's wire harness is not problematical for certain group of cars between 1991 - 1995. maybe someone will correct me but I noticed that only guys with S600 had (have) problems. I did not notice on this or any other forum that people with S500 complained about actually rotten ETA's wire harness.
    That part no 140 540 15 81 comes up at £5ish- could that be correct? I can’t believe I would get a new ETA Loom for that...... would I? Number 140 540 16 81 come up with nothing on Genuine Autoparts webiste- is that a real MB Part number?

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yep, 140-540-15-81 is a replacement pigtail, if you have mad soldering skillz. Pretty sure it's available? $25 USD list price on this side of the pond. Keep in mind that this may extend the ETA life somewhat but there are still internal components which can fail.

    You need to look at the date on the ETA itself to determine the age... the numbers on the connector are NOT a date code.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Yep, 140-540-15-81 is a replacement pigtail, if you have mad soldering skillz. Pretty sure it's available? $25 USD list price on this side of the pond. Keep in mind that this may extend the ETA life somewhat but there are still internal components which can fail.

    You need to look at the date on the ETA itself to determine the age... the numbers on the connector are NOT a date code.

    Thanks for confirming that- I will order from MB tomorrow. I have way too much soldering skills from the E36 Project! The HWA upper & lower harnesses had to be remade from scratch and the ETA Re-wired also.


    I did look again at the ETA White tag- its totally unreadable. The pig tail loom has a date of 06 month 92 so I would expect the ETA itself will match. It does function 100% fine currently and I know it won’t last forever but if it’s anything like my M104 ETA only the harness to it was degrading so it’s worth a shot for a £10 pigtail loom and a few hours of my time.


    I’ll order a new ETA to manifold gasket also. Some other bits turned up today too


    IMG_0738.JPG

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Ah, if the ETA white tag is totally unreadable, that is probably an original. For whatever reason, the later/replacement ETA's used a different printing method. Early ones appear to be dot-matrix and fade pretty bad. Later ones are not dot-matrix and remain legible much longer. Don't forget to order an ETA gasket, and the PCV tubing which connects from the ETA to the passenger side valve cover, if those are original... should be soft rubber, old ones will feel like plastic.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    This morning I placed an order for more parts including the PCV Hoses & ETA Gasket, new Intake hoses and the wiring harness / plug for the ETA.


    So with all the stuff on order and some parts coming from the states (The Base Module) it will be about another 2 -3 weeks before all the parts get here.

    I didn’t intend to take the car off the road like that but it is what it is- when it returns to the road mid May it will be ready to enjoy for the summer with all the ECOJunk gone and the engine bay detailed like it should be




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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Since the upper harness has been replaced I have been monitoring the battery drain for over 24 hours with the battery hooked on & off about a dozen times with 10 minute intervals in between

    it appears the power drain is gone

    The car starts at 5 amp draw and within 5 seconds drops to 0.21 amps. This is interesting- remember I found this was the current draw of the base module without the LH module in place?

    But then after another 3 seconds the current draw drops to 0.03 amps and stays there - identical to my 300E-24 with the same alarm fitted.

    So it was the Eco Junk all along!

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Tada!! Good for the psyche.
    1994 E500
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    1991 560 SEC
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Hurrah! The original advice of replacing all of the wiring holds true again !!


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes thanks for the advice- the new lower harness is still making it’s way here. I have the old lower harness unhooked currently which was to rule it out also. That is the main problem with the car resolved (Hopefully for good) and I am steadily bringing it back to top condition.

    The trans fluid is already draining but notice I need to remove an exhaust pipe to get proper access to the Torque Converter Plug which I will do tomorrow evening. The old fluid was still Red and didn’t smell burned or anything which is good. Fuchs Titan ATF 4000 going in- I have great results with Fuchs products in all my MB's

    The mega Service continuous


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes, you'll have to remove the exhaust pipe to get at the TC drain. It's much less daunting to do than it seems. Put a little penetrating oil or WD-40 onto the bolts and let it soak in for an hour or so before you remove them. Will make the task a bit easier.

    I believe there's a HOW-TO on how to do all this?

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    Yes I found the DIY on the trans service which confirmed what I thought about the Torque Converter drain plug access requiring the exhaust pipe to come off. That's OK the seal 'donut' should be re-useable and the manifold connection has no gasket fitted so I can take it off and replace in one day without waiting on (more!) parts

    I've been looking up all sorts on here planning jobs I want to do on the car over the coming months. Like new Beru Ignition leads & Bosch arms / Caps. The leads fitted look original.

    I replaced the spark plugs last night & thought all plugs were a little loose. Sure enough on close inspection the crush washers weren't even marked at all! The threads had carbon on them too indicative of loose plugs. At least they had the correct F8DC4 ones in there though. New replacements fitted & correctly torqued up this time

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    And to think the car was running wicked despite what you're finding. Goes to show that with untrained eyes all is fine and how well these cars are built, hence the deferred maintenance on a lot of them. Or at least till you join this board ..Now you can blame all the top notch blokes on here for dwindling your bank account..lol!
    1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
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    Quote Originally Posted by bing View Post
    And to think the car was running wicked despite what you're finding. Goes to show that with untrained eyes all is fine and how well these cars are built, hence the deferred maintenance on a lot of them. Or at least till you join this board ..Now you can blame all the top notch blokes on here for dwindling your bank account..lol!
    It's amazing just how well the car was running- seeing that loom opened up now is shocking. But I was bit by Eco Junk on my E36 project recently so I knew what to look for when I viewed the car.

    It wasn't hard to spot the bare wires at the front of the engine- I did negotiate a better price on the car in light of this so I don't mind spending a few quid on the car.

    Funny thing is in the 5+ hour drive home the car did go dead at 80mph for a millisecond a couple of times. It was pouring down & I was on a tight schedule for the Ferry so I pressed on & put it down to the Eco Junk exposed to driving rain through the grill.

    A couple of days later I came to realise the PO hadn't bothered tightening either battery terminal they were just sitting in place - that's why the car stumbled a couple of times it happened on rough patches of road!



    Incredible that no damage was done- try that shit with a modern car!!


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    It's amazing just how well the car was running- seeing that loom opened up now is shocking. But I was bit by Eco Junk on my E36 project recently so I knew what to look for when I viewed the car.

    It wasn't hard to spot the bare wires at the front of the engine- I did negotiate a better price on the car in light of this so I don't mind spending a few quid on the car.

    Funny thing is in the 5+ hour drive home the car did go dead at 80mph for a millisecond a couple of times. It was pouring down & I was on a tight schedule for the Ferry so I pressed on & put it down to the Eco Junk exposed to driving rain through the grill.

    A couple of days later I came to realise the PO hadn't bothered tightening either battery terminal they were just sitting in place - that's why the car stumbled a couple of times it happened on rough patches of road!



    Incredible that no damage was done- try that shit with a modern car!!

    That is another great object lesson for all cars, old and new. There is no way to overstate the mischief that can be caused by loose or poor condition battery terminals. It still burns even experienced mechanics over and over.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Ok once I get done with the service I REALLY want to get a custom exhaust ordered / made for the car!


    This one sounds fantastic-


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kl_2NE-8I






    I don’t suppose there are any suppliers still making off the shelf backboxes for the E500E’s? I have tried Ebay etc but nada coming up


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    I don’t suppose there are any suppliers still making off the shelf backboxes for the E500E’s? I have tried Ebay etc but nada coming up
    Nothing except the Leistung one:
    https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5095

    Remember these jut add some rumble, and likely add little if any power.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thanks for the info- I have emailed Leistung to price for their manifold back 500E system. Edit- I have read through that other thread since- $3000 + shipping to Ireland pretty much knocks that one out for right now
    Yes I don't expect power gains..... just a tasty Rumble from the exhaust!


    Looking at the system it seems like not much will be gained by re-doing the downpipes area. If I wanted to use a Magnaflow setup myself- I could go for 2 replacement high flow cats & pipe from there to a Magnaflow high flow backbox with mandrel bend pipes.


    What do you guys have on your cars? Do you go from the manifold back or from the cat area back?


    Would leaving the original MB cat's in place, deleting the centre muffler & fitting a Magnaflow backbox give me the V8 rumble I would like?

    I got the X over exhaust pipe removed OK and the trans filter changed last night. Diff also draining overnight. Whilst I was under there I spotted the 2x coolant block drains. The 500E had Blue Antifreeze in it- I have the correct G05 spec yellow fluid now for replacement. If I were to completely drain the radiator will there be much coolant left in the block itself? I don't want to disturb those drain plugs unless I thought there were another 2- 3 litres left in the block.
    Last edited by JC220; 04-18-2016 at 07:54 AM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I would try to delete mid-resonator/centre muffler. I'm sure you'll find a good exhaust shop that can custom make a Y pipe for you. Nothing to lose here as it's quite subtle but noticeable note change, and certainly much cheaper than going for anything fancy. This is what i did to my previous 036 and IMO it was just right and not at all intrusive by way of drone noise inside the cabin. Then if you still want to increase the rumble look for a fancy back box later.
    1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by bing View Post
    I would try to delete mid-resonator/centre muffler. I'm sure you'll find a good exhaust shop that can custom make a Y pipe for you. Nothing to lose here as it's quite subtle but noticeable note change, and certainly much cheaper than going for anything fancy. This is what i did to my previous 036 and IMO it was just right and not at all intrusive by way of drone noise inside the cabin. Then if you still want to increase the rumble look for a fancy back box later.
    Thankyou for the idea bing- yes I will look into that too

    With more digging I found this-

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Exhaus...-/391391504895

    Looks good to me- what do you all think? It looks to me like it will bolt right on & is good quality

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    Whilst I was under there I spotted the 2x coolant block drains. The 500E had Blue Antifreeze in it- I have the correct G05 spec yellow fluid now for replacement. If I were to completely drain the radiator will there be much coolant left in the block itself? I don't want to disturb those drain plugs unless I thought there were another 2- 3 litres left in the block.
    There is another 2-3 liters in the block, plus maybe 0.5-1.0 liter in the heater core and plumbing. If changing types of anti-freeze, you MUST drain the block too, both sides. Then refill the system with water, drive until it gets to operating temp, run heater on max for a bit to circulate the water everywhere, and drain the radiator & block again after it cools down. This should get most of the blue stuff out. Run a garden hose through the radiator & block (with engine COLD!) to help flush those out. Then re-fill with pre-mixed G-05.

    Search the forum for threads on antifreeze replacement! The factory spec claims 15-16 quarts capacity but I believe this is an error, and the system only holds about 12 quarts total. This is why you should only fill with pre-mixed coolant, to ensure the percentage in the system is what you want. Also, fill the block via upper radiator hose first, it will take 4-5 quarts - then connect the hose to the radiator and fill the rest via the plastic reservoir. You should be able to get 9-10 quarts back it, then drive the car until the t-stat opens, the level will drop, you will be able to add another ~1 quart after it cools down. If you don't fill the block first, and only fill via the plastic reservoir, you will end up with an air pocket and engine temps heading towards 120C as the system will be underfilled by several quarts...


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    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    There is another 2-3 liters in the block, plus maybe 0.5-1.0 liter in the heater core and plumbing. If changing types of anti-freeze, you MUST drain the block too, both sides. Then refill the system with water, drive until it gets to operating temp, run heater on max for a bit to circulate the water everywhere, and drain the radiator & block again after it cools down. This should get most of the blue stuff out. Run a garden hose through the radiator & block (with engine COLD!) to help flush those out. Then re-fill with pre-mixed G-05.

    Search the forum for threads on antifreeze replacement! The factory spec claims 15-16 quarts capacity but I believe this is an error, and the system only holds about 12 quarts total. This is why you should only fill with pre-mixed coolant, to ensure the percentage in the system is what you want. Also, fill the block via upper radiator hose first, it will take 4-5 quarts - then connect the hose to the radiator and fill the rest via the plastic reservoir. You should be able to get 9-10 quarts back it, then drive the car until the t-stat opens, the level will drop, you will be able to add another ~1 quart after it cools down. If you don't fill the block first, and only fill via the plastic reservoir, you will end up with an air pocket and engine temps heading towards 120C as the system will be underfilled by several quarts...


    Great instructions- thanks! I will remove both drain plugs tonight and let everything drain. Then re-fill with water and run that through it when I have the car running again. Followed by using a hose at low pressure to rinse the matrix etc out just prior to re-filling with pre-mixed G-05 & de-ionised water.

    Good info on filling the block first too- I didn't know that. I'll make sure to fill via the upper hose first.

    I had an ATF shower yesterday changing the autobox filter- I guess I'll have a coolant shower tonight, my car has the early type block drains which dumps water on top of you! I'm also removing the lower harness tonight in preparation for the new one arriving tomorrow. I'll use that rope trick I seen on here to feed the harness through the engine compartment.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I may be too late with this tip but I used an allen wrench with a ball tip to reach over the cross over pipe and loosen the torque converter drain plug. Worked perfectly.

    I tried putting a piece of cardboard over the pipe to direct the ATF over it but that didn't work too well. So the pipe got wet but it was worth it to me to avoid having to remove it.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    It's NOT a big deal to remove that pipe. Just a few bolts and it's off. Folks seem so fearful of doing it. It adds 10 minutes to the job, and it makes the TC drain INFINITELY easier.

    As an alternative to cardboard, have you tried one of those "bendable" funnels that you can get on the counter of your local McParts/FLAPS store?

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    When you remove the plastic plug in preparation for the lower, be sure to take a picture of the wires and their orientation inside the plug for reinstall. removal of that plug and sliding off the bracket makes this a very simple task.
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by luckymike View Post
    I may be too late with this tip but I used an allen wrench with a ball tip to reach over the cross over pipe and loosen the torque converter drain plug. Worked perfectly.

    I tried putting a piece of cardboard over the pipe to direct the ATF over it but that didn't work too well. So the pipe got wet but it was worth it to me to avoid having to remove it.

    Yes I thought I could have maybe done that but with my luck I would have stripped the Allen head in the TC drain! I already have the X over pipe removed- that bit was OK. I have another reason for taking it off- the heat shields had rusted & were loose / rattling. I have cut the heat shield off and VHT sprayed the exhaust pipe as it was 100% sound. I will re-wrap it with Titanium header wrap to re-insulate the pipe before re-installation.


    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    When you remove the plastic plug in preparation for the lower, be sure to take a picture of the wires and their orientation inside the plug for reinstall. removal of that plug and sliding off the bracket makes this a very simple task.

    Yes I had seen that in the pics- it makes sense to split the plug apart to allow the harness to feed through.


    Tonight I got on with a few other jobs like replacing the PS filter & fitting the new serpentine belt but I did get the front most section of the lower harness disconnected also.


    Now I see that at the very back of the engine there is a bracket which needs to come off as it’s part of the lower harness. It’s got a 17mm nut on it and the gearbox dipstick tube is on the same bolt. I had read that part on the other lower harness DIY thread. It’s going to be a pain to get a wrench in there!!


    But what I would like to know is- do I ‘just’ need to get that nut off to allow the harness to come out now or will there also be a solenoid wire to the Starter motor?


    If so- how do I access that? There are lots of little heat shields in & around the starter motor do these have to come off to enable access?

    Edit- OK I see there is a starter wire mentioned in the DIY thread- looks like more 1/4 drive ratcheting required! I have lots of extensions & stuby spanners etc and I must say I have used practically all of them on the 500E- they really did shoehorn that 5.0 motor in there
    Last edited by JC220; 04-18-2016 at 05:49 PM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    It's NOT a big deal to remove that pipe. Just a few bolts and it's off. Folks seem so fearful of doing it. It adds 10 minutes to the job, and it makes the TC drain INFINITELY easier.

    As an alternative to cardboard, have you tried one of those "bendable" funnels that you can get on the counter of your local McParts/FLAPS store?
    I recently saw one of those bendable funnels at a friends shop. Brilliant. I may try his next time the car is on the rack.

    I'll also look more closely at the removal of that pipe. I assumed difficult fasteners and access. Will pay closer attention next time.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Just put a bit of penetrant or WD-40 (not needed, but just makes things about 50% easier) and let it soak for 15 minutes, and you're good to go. When I last did my TC drain, I had no trouble and didn't even use any penetrant on them.

    I'm not always a big fan of removing more things (extra work) to make a job easier, but in this case it's more than worth the extra 10 minutes to do this step. Much neater too.

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    luckymike (04-18-2016)

  87. #119
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Well I got in contact with a local Powerflow exhaust centre by email to see if they could maybe come up with a custom system for the 500E. The boss emailed me back- starting with ‘That’s a very special car you have there’ so he knows what a 500e is!

    I have arranged to take the car to them to discuss options Saturday week when I have it up & running again

  88. #120
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    Well I got in contact with a local Powerflow exhaust centre by email to see if they could maybe come up with a custom system for the 500E. The boss emailed me back- starting with ‘That’s a very special car you have there’ so he knows what a 500e is!

    I have arranged to take the car to them to discuss options Saturday week when I have it up & running again
    If you do anything custom... I would strongly recommend making it a cat-back system, and leaving the front catalyst pipe completely untouched. That way you can return it to stock in the future with just the resonator (middle muffler) and rear muffler. The rear bits are semi-affordable new and sometimes available new. The factory cat pipe is $$$$ new and difficult to find used.


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