I know it's likely not cheap, but the 5SR/L (FifthScaleRacer/Leistung) system is bolt-on and well-engineered for our cars. I know folks have been happy with the results.
Right mate, just realised i'd promised to give you an update on the car when we had it - sorry for the delay! I'll keep it short and sweet.
Story is that my uncle bought a 1991 500E in 2003 after we bought a 1995 E280 in 2001. He liked the build quality of the W124 but is a speed freak and wanted something quick alongside his 993 Porsche, C43 and 750i. Came across a 1991 500E at an army base in the UK off eBay and bought it on the spot (after a 240kmh test drive) - still has the car today but its looking worse for wear. This is what originally got me into the 500E's. I was 15 at the time so persuaded my father that we needed one. After much searching (most examples around the 10-12k mark but we really didn't want to spend that much) we found one advertised in Brighton, UK. Truth be told the seller was slightly dodgy and the car was sitting in a dark barn. However it looked ok and for the price we paid it was pretty decent.
We bought the car in August 2004 and kept it until October 2005 I think. During this time we did:
- Numerous oil changes - we did it every 3,000 miles with full synthetic oil, engine was sweet
- New distributor caps and arms as the car kept cutting out at some point
- Replace the 8 hole alloys with the BBS CH alloys off my uncles 500E
- Gearbox oil and filter change at MB Bedford
- New headlight lenses for RHD roads
- MB stainless steel doorsills
- Probably a few more bits and piece, brake pads etc.
- AC never worked
- Stereo etc
Most of our receipts should be with the car.
We enjoyed the car throughly but it always had a problem with pulling to the left. MB couldn't correct it even with max camber adjustment. We didn't realise it was actually a 500E until we checked up VIN etc. Looks like front end and rear trunk etc have been updated, was sold as a 1993 to us but turns out its a 1992.
When we bought the car the seller promised history but never delivered any apart from a few receipts etc. The car was from Germany originally then brought to the UK.
Here are a few photos for when we had it - there are 2004/2005.
As you can tell we're a car mad family. I personally am on my second 500E now, prefer buying from Japan as they're so clean. Check out my build thread. I'd love the AMG suspension off this thing though - very rare!!!
If you want to know anything else give me a shout
The alignment issue appears to have been corrected since then- the car drives very well & when I was driving it home I noted that it wasnít pulling either side. I was also meaning to check on the distributer caps- the car has done very little miles since so they should still be in good order. Iíll wait until I get new leads and check the caps out when fitting the leads. To me the leads on it look original.
Yes there is a folder full of receipts I have been meaning to take another dig through that all again & maybe put some order to it.
The A/C still doesnít work but Iíll get the car booked into an A/C specialist soon to tend to that. We donít need A/C in Ireland..... but I want everything working as it should really!
Those BBS wheels do look good on the car- but I couldnít stand the condition they were in since the car now looks so clean! They are Genuine made in Germany BBS Rims, they cost around £360 per wheel or £1400ish for a new set without tyres! For the last few days they have been with a Pro Refurb place who are giving them the full treatment- will be ready for me to collect tomorrow I canít wait! I have already got new Genuine BBS centre caps (& BBS Valve caps) for the wheels and they were shod in new Y rated tyres just before I bought the car.
I will get on with cleaning and painting the brake callipers & changing the brake fluid before mounting them back on the 500E next week. There is also some rust on one rear inner fenderwell which I want to attend to now when the car is up on Jackstands.
Better updates to come soon
Glad to hear the car is getting the right tlc. I think we sold it close to 180,000km. Looking forward to seeing pics once the wheels have been refurbished. They'll really make the car look smart!
Well since I have got the upper & lower harnesses replaced on the car. Working on the car off & on when I have time itís hard to tell how many hours it took but Iíd say about 8 hours total for both harnesses.
I started it up today for a few minutes just to check all was well since the harness replacements- it appears what was predicted regarding the ETA Wiring has happened. As it had to be disturbed for the install of the other harnesses the ASR light is now on and the car idles high / doesnít want to rev. So the ETA Wiring has had it.
The new MB ETA Plug / harness still hasnít been dispatched from Germany so itíll be yet another wait for parts before I can get stuck into that.
I got the exhaust X Pipe back in. The heat shields are all rusty and loose so I came up with a cunning plan- the pics tell the story. I VHT Painted the pipe to prevent corrosion then wrapped it with Titanium header wrap. The same thing will be done with the other downpipe to cat section before the custom cat back exhaust is figured out in a few weeks.
Added 8 US qrts of the Fuchs Titan ATF 4000 and cycled it through the gears so alls left to do is coolant change and Brake fluid change to complete the mega service.
Now itís running again (Sort of!) I am going out to change the brake fluid now.
Plus the refurbed BBS wheels should be ready to collect within the hour
Iíll post pics later of the wheels
One thing after another! Most cars have ETA issues though and like you say once disturbed it causes issues. Move the cable around and it might settle down again. Did you order new ETA wiring from MB? I didn't know you could get it seperately, thought it came with the ETA itself.
Could you send me the part numbers for the ETA wiring and the lower wiring harness? I know my upper wiring harness has been changed but no idea if the lower one has. My ETA wiring is original (I do have a spare ETA but i'd rather keep that for a rainy day).
Looking forward to seeing the car once the freshly refurbished BBS's are on.
Check for the round plug on your ETA- It’s near the Can Box. The part number is 140-540-15-81
Lower Harness is A 124 540 27 30 (Have your supplier double check this against your Vin to be sure it's the same for your car but I'm sure it would be)
One big Tip Bill is don’t use UK MB Dealers for parts! I now use this supplier- it takes approx 2 weeks for the orders to get to your door but the parts are all 100% genuine from MB Germany and the shipping is cheap at £11 or so.
They are a German company. I find all prices are about 30% cheaper than MB UK / Ireland- on every single part. It soon adds up- between the 500E and my E36 Project car (It’s all 100% new suspension & brakes etc- total rebuild) I have been spending way more than I should be so 30% off everything soon adds up. Plus you can punch the part no into their site & get the price any time. I find dropping the spaces out works. So A 124 540 27 30 becomes 1245402730. I have an email contact of a great parts guy in there I can PM his details to you if you like. I just email him what I need and he finds all the part numbers for me. With the AMG build some parts are very rare he has went out of his way to find the correct parts for me several times.
Here’s a before on the BBS Wheels-
And hereís the after of the re-furbished BBS Wheels - these are acid stripped then powder coated in stages. A choose a Metallic Silver base coat- which is then given another powdercoat clearcoat to finish- same finish as new wheels.
Complete with the new Genuine BBS Germany centrecaps the wheels are for all intensive purposes brand new! And it all cost about £300 total- less than what one genuine BBS wheel costs so Iím chuffed with that.
I have another idea of what I would like to do with the car- I will be buying the correct E500 headlamps news from MB soon. But I had also seen an E500 Limited recently with a painted Grill- it looked great. My car actually has a brand new Genuine MB Grill fitted- it looks literally weeks old.
I do have a good spare pre-facelift w124 MB Grill I can have my painter spray in matching 199 Pearl Black Paint to match the car. So it can be un-done anytime and the current new MB Grill popped back in place.
I think with the correct headlights and the colour coded Grill itíll really look the part
So the mo*&6f7*er battery drain returned last night- car was so it would hardly turn over at all. Maybe the ETA wiring fault isnít helping now. The replacement Base Module is still sitting in customs somewhere no sign of it yet at all. It could also be that the LH ECU is fried & requires replacing. Before shelling out for a used replacement LH ECU (I have the rarer one I think) I would rather send it to a ECU repair specialist for testing / repair.
Obviously the LH and / or Base modules are still firing up on their own even though I had recently extensively tested the car post harness replacement & found the power drain to be gone.
However in the interim of finding where the problem lies / replacing modules etc I am considering fitting one of these-
Since itís that one cable going to the ECUís that causes the problem they can be isolated at the flick of a switch. Then flick the switch again to energise the connection without having to do anything in the boot etc. I would site the switch inside the centre console temporarily so as not to damage any trim. Hell I could leave it in there as an extra anti theft device even after the drain is gone for good!
But ultimately I will trace and fix the issue so the lead can be left connected. I know this may lead to having to remove the CAN Box and going through every wire but for right now I want to put some miles on it until beginning more major work / expenditure
I got to the bottom of why the boot light was removed from the car- it would never turn off. On testing the wiring I found that the fault lay within the boot lid harness.
On removing the sheathing I found the fault- the wires had molted together and made a solid connection which is why the boot light was never off- by chance it was the boot lid switch wires that stuck together. Snipped one wire and the light went out- knowing these can be faulty and seeing old tape repairs on it I cut it out & will make a new loom to replace the faulty section.
New Hirschmann universal Power Antenna also fitted and working today- replacing the old stuck halfway out one.
Thinking about that Relay for the ECUís- I am going to wire it to the Accessory Power. So it automatically powers up the ECUís when the key is turned in the ignition a few milliseconds before the starter is turned, I think that should work just fine and for now will solve the battery problem until further diagnosis can be carried out.
I would like to remove the ETA tonight to begin prepping it for the re-wire. I got word the parts should be dispatched from Germany today so hopefully the new plug will be here by the weekend. I don't want to run the car anymore with the damaged ETA Loom in case it blows the EGAS Module or something next.
Is there any tips on removing the Throttle body? I can't see any m119 Throttle body removal DIY's that's all.
It's hard to see but it looks like I remove the MAF first then find any Allen bolts holding it down and waggle it out of there popping the throttle linkage off first. Sound about right?
I'll post plenty of pics detailing the M119 Throttle body re-wire. I'll do my own Pin Out diagram first so I can get on with disordering the old wires and prepping the circuit board with solder wick etc. So when the new loom arrives a couple of hours should have it all re-assembled and ready to go back on the car again.
This one should be relatively simple since the plug and harness can be purchased pre assembled from MB. Normally the plug must be split and new wires ran the whole way which is a PITA & very time consuming. In this case I'll have about a dozen solder connections to do inside the ETA & I'm done.
Correct -- wiggle the MAF free, and then you will see how the ETA is held on. It's dark down there, so a good, powerful torch or shop light will be helpful. Also good idea to disconnect the battery before you begin.
The ETA is a very very easy thing to remove. It's held on by just four bolts. They are Allen (hex) and you will want to use some brake cleaner or other solvent to spray out the bolt heads to provide a maximum grip for the allen socket/key that you insert into each hole. This area of the car gets very dirty, and it is exceedingly easy to strip out these Allen bolt heads. If I remember correctly, they are 5mm.
You will want to buy a new rubber boot that connects the ETA to the MAF (guaranteed yours will be fossilized) as well as a new paper gasket (get two just to be on the safe side; they are cheap) for between the ETA and the intake manifold.
Once the four ETA-to-intake-manifold bolts are removed, you will need to unhook the linkage (ball socket joint) at one side of it. BE CAREFUL not to bend the thin metal arm attached to the ETA. After you pop the ball joint linkage off, then you can wiggle the ETA out (upward) through the opening between the intake runners.
It can be frustrating if you've not done this before, so just be persistent and you'll find the way to get it out. I find that soothing music (I often listen to Sade when working specifically on intake manifolds, ETAs and the like; Metallica works better for things like power steering pumps and thermostat replacements) helps quite well.
Perfect thanks for the tips Gerry that's a great help I have the intake gasket ordered but I didn't think about the connection hose, I'll get that ordered also tonight.
The car is still perched on jack stands which will make it a little trickier reaching over to the manifold but I should manage it. I'll post pics of the condition of the ETA Loom when it's out!
Ps- I actually do have a Metallica CD in my Garage stereo at all times!
So I got the Throttle body off & cut the loom to check it- WTF- totally fine. No signs of wires degrading at all. Both the loom and ETA are dated 1992.
So to recap- both the upper & lower harnesses were replaced along with the sprak plugs and service. I made sure each connection was correct and tight on all spark plugs and loom wiring / injector connections.
On starting the car up it took a couple of seconds to catch as normal then had a high idle (Around 1k rpm) and the first 3rd of the throttle had no response. It would then rev up but if the revs were held it would stumble on it’s own. Like typical ETA loom failure. Plus the white dash ASR Bulb was lit continuous which it never did before.
What gives? I was expecting the ETA Wiring to be in crap. I mean the wires really look fine- whatever material they use in this particular loom it does not degrade. Now I have hacked the loom open I am going to have to rewire the ETA and re-fit which feels like a total waste of about 10 hours work.
I don’t believe the Throttle body could up & fail with the car sitting getting the looms replaced it was 100% AOK before with a good idle and cruise working. I did expect the wiring to have crumbled when the loom was disturbed but now I am stumped
My guess: The wiring was already replaced with the item you were planning to install.
Can you post a photo of the label on the ETA, and also the "triangle" ink stamp on the ETA housing?
What else could have triggered the ASR Light and I believe the car was in Limp Home mode which is what I was experiencing with the laggy throttle.
The Blink code reader still has not arrived wither but it will be about 1 Ĺ 2 weeks now until I can get the ETA re-wired and re-fitted to test again.
Plus I found rust that had been covered up with mastic prior to the underbody waxoyl. All ripped off reveals a sizable area(s) that require steel welding in along the nearside sill / rear wheelarch.
Yep, that looks original, Sept-1992. I'm shocked the wire insulation is all intact. Could be the engine never saw high temps, maybe? What happens if you bend the individual wires around, any cracking?
Next most likely item to cause limp mode would be the NSS at the trans, but that will usually trigger the same couple of codes every time it goes into limp mode.
The wire insulation is all good- I think it's made from the same stuff as the 2 wires inside the ETA that don't degrade. Teflon maybe? It is pastel coloured and soft but no cracking whatsoever.
I was shifting it in & out of gears for the ATF change so I suppose the NSS could also have triggered it. I guess the next step is to get it running again & clear all codes to get it out of Limp mode again. Then see if it goes back into limp mode & what code appears. I have many hours work ahead now that's for sure!
I have been trying to locate a parcel shelf for the car since the original was cut for the install of speakers. This is the fabric covered liner to the rear window opening.
My car has the rear blind and no cars here in the UK have that really! I think I might have to order this new from MB if itís still available
I have tried looking through here for the part number but canít figure out where to look with no diagrams.
I also cannot remove the old parcel shelf since the headrestís wont come out. I have the pins pulled underneath but they hit the fuel tank before the pop fully out of the brackets. So it seems I will have to remove the fuel tank in order to get the rear headrests removed to enable the removal of the parcel shelf!
Can anyone with access to EPC etc let me know what the part number is for the main rear shelf lining? And the first Aid kit cover that goes on top of the liner. Any help with the part numbers would be much appreciated!
OK so Genuine Autoparts located the part numbers and the parcel shelf is NLA
So I will take a closer look at my 300E-24 'Stock' parcel shelf which has the headrests but no roller blind. If it looks like I can cut out the recess for the roller blind then a good used one might be an option if it can be retrofitted to the 500E.
Or failing that I could fill in the speaker cutout & re-cover the original parcel shelf in Black Alacantara Suede. Might look cool actually in the Alacantra
I would think that a good interior shop could "recreate" a parcel shelf, complete with cutouts and all you need. May not be cheap, but perhaps the way to go. Otherwise, someone in the US with a spare / parts car who would sell you one. That would probably be the best option. Try captruff....
I have asked them if I ship the parcel shelf over can they cover it for me in Black Alacantra. The more I think of it the more I like that idea actually! I wouldn't tackle covering it myself- I can only imagine the disaster that might turn into
I think i'd be putting my money on a black alcantara headlining rather than parcel shelf.
Who does your interior work mate?
In the meantime however there is a facelift m104 W124 for salvage about 80mile return trip from me. I am going to check it out tomorrow- apparently it has a good black parcel shelf in it. (Black cloth interior) At the very least I should get the first aid box cover off it (£££ from MB!) even if the non blind shelf doesn't work in the 500E. w124's for salvage are few and far between now so I want to see what goodies I can snag off it for any of my 3 w124's!
Also- when dealing with rust & prepping for under sealing the car I see a small canister type thing with 2 (I think) small metal Pipes on it at the Driver's wheelarch area. What is that for? I guess Brakes or SLS but either way I can't think of what it's function is? I might have to remove it is all to get in that area properly
The people who are making the mats can't cover the parcel shelf for me- so If I go that route I may need to find a interior upholsterer yet. Yes my brother had an S55 AMG with a dark anthracite alcantara headlining and it looked great! It's on the future 'upgrade' list but the original headlining in the car is still in good shape anyway.
Well I had a good morning w124 parts hunting! I got a black parcel shelf which looks like it will work with the blind BUT it has a burn mark at the front edge. It has a good first aid lid etc which was cut out of my original for a speaker install. Best part is it was.... Free! So I thought it was worth spending the time to remove. I will have this one covered in Black Alcantra then swap out the original bastardised one.
Got lots of other little black trims for the interior too and a spare cubbyhole box which was in great nick. Some little minor trim bits were missing or cracked in my car but really I'll have a whole heap of spare trim left over now but that's Ok!
I also removed the rear cover of the driver's seat to see why the headrest wasnít moving- turns out only the drive cable had popped out. It's working again- the mech was fine.
Some minor rust repairs are well underway to the rear nearside sill which was hidden behind the plastic trim. Then I'll drop it back on it's refurbed wheels and wait for the ETA harness to turn up from Germany- it still hasnít been dispatched even which is a bit of a bummer since I want her up & running again to enjoy some hugely expensive V8 motoring!
Hi all, if you recall I this 500E had the boot lamp removed when I bought it. This is because of the Eco Junk wiring in the boot had welded itself together thus bypassing the switch permanently. I am re-making a new loom for the bootlid which will correct this issue.
However, I also noticed the inside of the lamp holder was burned inside. I have seen this on a junker car too on Saturday so it seems that the Festoon bulb, if left on could potentially be a fire hazard.
So I bought these bulbs to try them out
They work great- plus on testing the current draw they only use 10% of the Ďstockí bulbs current draw and give better light- being LED. More importantly they also stay 100% cool to the touch during operation unlike the original festoon bulbs. So I will now check the other interior courtesy festoon bulbs sizes and upgrade them all including the ones in the doors.
The other advantage is; should a bulb be left on accidently over night (such as the rear interior lamp) it will not kill the Battery at the 0.03A LED current draw and the risk of a fire due to the ageing fabrics / lamp holders exposed to heat is thus eliminated entirely.
Well I pulled the inner fender liner on the LH side for access to repair a frilly end of the cill. You can see this is a terrible mud trap and the plastic cill cladding had sopping wet mud packed against the cill end. Hence its rusted through. I have a perfect used cill end from Saturday's parts hoard so I will fully Seam weld this on today to replace the rotted section.
Everything else under the fender liner was 100% rust free but I will galvafroid paint & waxoyl underbody shutz the area now when I have it opened up.
This winter the whole front end will be disassembled for thorough rust inspection & Waxoyling / detailing. As will the underbody. I will also pull the rear subframe and have it blasted / sprayed as per my E36 build. And renew all bushes / arms with Lemforder too.
Anyway- see the pic of the device under the fender liner. It looks like a spin on filter for the AC maybe?
I am thinking I should order a new one & leave the fender liner off. Then when the cars running again drive it to the AC service specialist and have them evac the system & replace the filter / receiver dryer if that's what that is?
Would be good to try (and for any other folks using these bulbs to report if they are experiencing issues) these bulbs and let us know how they work, and if they trip the bulb monitoring. The bulb monitoring is mainly concerned with the exterior lamps -- headlights, turn signals, side markers, driving & fog lamps, and license plate lights.
I do know (from experience) that the bulb-monitoring system is not tripped by one of the small "city lights" being burned out or not illuminating (the small, dim bulbs in the "Euro" headlamps).
Thats a good point on the bulbs warning system. For the interior lamps hopefully these bulbs should be fine.
The only other bulbs I am updating to LED are the brake lamps & tail lamps. I had a jeep stove into a w210 saloon I had at 40mph with no brakes & me stopped. Needless to say the car was a total loss- the impact was huge it distorted the whole bodyshell.
So it's a safety thing to hopefully prevent history repeating itself on this Beauty. (And the car too! )
I had a minor lower back injury but that's pretty much gone now 3 years later. It was more the fright of it than anything else- I could see it coming & had no where to go. I was sitting with the brake lights & indicator on and cars coming the other way. She claimed she had sunlight in her eyes- I suspect phone was being used.
I forgot to mention the brake & tail LED Bulbs I got were can bus compatible. When they turn up I'll let you guys know if they work without bulb warning lamps coming on.
My LED number plate bulbs often make the bulb failure light on the speedo illuminate. Not always but does happen from time to time. All lights however fine with no flickering.
I upgraded the taillight bulbs to a brighter incandescent recommended by Danial Stern lighting years ago and I really appreciate the difference. I'm also interested how the LEDs work. Keep up the admirable resto work.
92 500e 58,500 miles
92 500e 180,000+ miles
93 500e 179,000 miles sold
92 500e 110,000 miles sold
Thatís cool that Daveís related to Kent! Itís a small world eh!
Looking through some LED W124 threads I see itís common for people to also use the rear Fog lamps for the brake lights;
HOWEVER, here in Ireland / UK we require one rear Fog Lamp to operate. This car has both rear fogís operating- thatís not correct. I will need to remove one bulb to make the car pass the much more rigorous Northern Ireland MOT tests. (English MOTís are a bit of a Joke really)
But it did get me thinking and I am pretty sure I can utilise a 5 Pin relay in order to have both rear fogs (Also Can Bus compatible LED) Operating with the brake lamps. Then when the rear Fog Lamp is switched on it will automatically switch the braking function off and operate one Fog
Lamp only as required here. It may take 2 or more relays to get this to work but I canít see why it wonít!
I could handle the Bulb Warning system by using a separate power feed to the fog brake lamp function for example. Or using resistors as required.
I have literally 4 spare W124 tail lamp bulb holders so I will use a pair of these to modify.
I will start coming up with wiring diagrams and post the results here in a few days. These are the bulbs I have on order so far (For the rear lamp cluster)
In order to not allow the LED bulbs to confuse things I will first get my idea functioning on regular bulbs and be sure the warning lamp system is happy first. Then switch out the bulbs to LED after that.
A quick look at the cluster and a 5 pin relay wiring diagram and this will be easier than I thought! One 5 pin relay will piggyback the cluster on each side- no extra wiring required at all in the car. Plug & play so to speak.
I will be able to use both rear fog lamps with the brake lamps under normal operation. As soon as the rear Fog lamp is switched on it will cut the Fog lamp braking function and alight one or both rear foglamps as required. (In my case I will require only one fog lamp to illuminate as per UK Regulations- handily the single 5 pin piggyback relay per side will handle this function also)
All without even having to think about it- the Relays will automatically switch the Fogs from Braking function to Single Fog Lamp as normal
I may even create a DIY on here for the mod!
I will modify a rear cluster lamp holder pair this weekend & test it out
So here is how this will work
Changeover relay Two circuits (terminals 87 and 87a ) have a common terminal (30). When the relay is at rest 87a is connected to 30, and when the relay is energised 87 becomes connected to 30 (but never both at the same time).
Pin 30 will be to the Fog Lamp(s)
Pin 87a will be spliced to the Brake Lamp +12v input
85 will be Ground.
86 will be Fog Lamp input to the cluster. Which will also be daisy chained to pin 87.
BUT on the side where I DO NOT want the Fog Lamp to illuminate this link will be missing. (In the UK only the offside Fog Lamp should illuminate- not both)
Thus when the relay is NOT energised the Fog Lamps get power from the brake lamp circuit.
And when the Relay is energised the Link to the Brake Lamp circuit is broken and the power from the Fog circuit connects up the Fog Lamp(s) again
With the LED Bulbs used also, this should be one hell of a setup- to bring the car up to modern (crazy bright) LED brake lamp standards.
The mod will be totally contained within the lamp cluster wiring. It can be swapped out in seconds with an unmodded cluster to return to stock.
Kent's youtube videos are great I have watched many of them, he clearly has a lot of knowledge and passion for older Benzes!
That relay wiring diagram I tried to post above didn't work- so here is one I have created.
I hope this makes sense
w124 Fog brake relay wiring.jpg
For full disclosure I should point out that I am in fact a first cousin to members of a world famous pop band.... but since I don't think you guys will believe me now I'll leave it at that
I was confused when I pulled the other lamp cluster on the 500E last night and found it had all metal contacts inside
One side had wires in it- see the pic in the differences.
For my LED Fog / Brake Lamp upgrade I want the wired type. All 6 spare clusters I had were Metal too. But luckily my 300E-24 had a pair of the wired versions. So I have nicked them from it and installed all metal types in their place for now.
So I have a matching pair of wired type bulb holders for the 500E now + a single spare wired version. Which is just as well since I need an extra fog lamp bulb terminal & terminal Pin to install a LED Fog lamp bulb on the LH rear cluster. (For extra (Fog bulb) braking lamp function only)
On a side note the metal ones also corrode very easily.... wired type is better. I suspect the corroded metal one in the 500E is why the car might have occasionally triggered the fused bulb warning
So I will keep a look out in scrap yards for more of the wired versions so I can do the same mod to my other w124's too. It seems the early cars had the wired type and later models (1991+) had the all metal type as far as I can tell from the spares I had. I will take a look and see if the part numbers are different between the lamp holder types.
OK, so I have been in discussion with a car mat manufacturer in England to make a one off set of mats for my 500E. 99% of UK Mat makers do not have LHD w124 patterns
They sent out samples for me to choose from and I picked a really thick pure wool luxury carpet in dark grey. The colour matches the paint on the car and should break up the sea of black inside the car.
I am drawing my old mats up in Autocad and plotting off my own full size templates of W124 LHD Mats to send to the trimmerís.
BUT- my 500E only came with 2 front mats. So I thought I would test fit RHD Ďstockí w124 rear mats0 they should fit right?
Wrong! I tried fitting the rear mats from my RHD 300E-24 Saloon and they seem like they are too big for the 500E
So it would be really helpful if someone on here wouldnít mind uploading a couple of pics of their 500E rear mats with a measuring tape on them like my pics attached now of the Ďstockí mats to confirm to me the correct dimensions of an original 500E rear mat(s)
As thanks I will upload PDF copies of my finished templates so any of you guys can have your own mats made in the future
Many folks just make the rears "work" as they are. You should be able to scale them appropriately, I'd think. Have you considered cocomats here in the US? They have a variety of cool patterns available and the quality is second-to-none, absolutely. And they have the correct pattern for an exact .036 fit.
Just a thought. www.cocomats.com
The rear mats sold in USA fit 6-cyl cars fine, but the front corners get curled up slightly, and do not lay flat in the 034/036 chassis. Most people just live with the difference, it's not major. The only option would be custom mats, or the cocomats Gerry mentioned above.
Gerry, do you have photos or measurements showing the custom V8-specific W124 rear mats, on top of a "standard" mat?
All I need is a pic of a rear 500E mat and the 2 dimensions in mm. Since I am going to the bother of getting mats custom made there's no point in having crap fitting ones.
I will also share the PDF's for you guys to use.