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Thread: OWNER - JC220

  1. #181
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Cool, thanks!


    Here are quick drawings of the stock original mat’s. I have plotted them real size and set my original mats on top- they are exacting copies to the mm.


    With the rear mat photo looking straight down on top and the 2 dimensions I will create a real size PDF template that anyone can have printed (If they don’t have a A0 plotter at home)


    I will now begin designing my own custom mat templates to send off to the trimmer’s!

    IMG_0884.JPGDraft 500E Mats Front.jpgDraft 500E Mats Front Dimensions.jpg




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  3. #182
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    One thing I might mention about Cocomats. I recently ordered a set for my '72 W107. They replied that they weren't sure about the fit so they sent me a template in paper.
    They were correct, their template wasn't correct, so they had me cut out a new pattern for my mats which I returned to them.
    They will reproduce exactly from my pattern so - presto - custom fit mats.
    They are great people to work with.
    1993 500E Signal Red/Parchment
    1987 300TDT Ivory/Palomino
    1995 E320 Cabrio Black/Parchment
    1969 280SL Silver/Green - 1970 280SL Black/Parchmen
    1987 560SL Signal Red/Palomino

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  5. #183
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I had the same experience with my G-wagen. They came back to me immediately, as it was a gray-market vehicle, and said they were not confident that their existing pattern would work for my specific year/model. So they sent me a paper template that they did have on hand, which was different than my truck. I "modified" it for front and rear and they sent me mats based on that revised template for my vehicle. It's a 95% fit, which is well good enough for me.

    The SEC mats I just got were from their off-the-shelf pattern for that model, and also were a 95%+ fit. The rears on the SEC were not QUITE right (slightly oversized) but just fine. I'll have to post some photos of the mat fitment when I get home on Saturday.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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  7. #184
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    So I received my order of Black Alcantara today. I am pleased to see that it's more of a really dark grey / anthracite which will match the 500E's trim beautifully.


    So I tried to located a local timmer- no Joy. So I will eat my own words & have a crack at covering the parcel shelf myself!


    Armed with plenty of the 3mm foam backed fabric, 3 tins of Spray Contact adhesive and You Tube videos to hand I am cautiously optimistic!

    I mean, what can possibly go wrong?



  8. #185
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Looking good mate - I would like to redo my headliner with black alcantera as it's beginning to sag now annoyingly enough (was perfect when I bought the car). I will leave it to the professionals though - got a quote for £500ish last time I checked! So pricey so will have to shop around.

    Did you get the mats sorted? I have a genuine MB Japan set out of my old 500E if you're interested. The drivers mat has most the wear with the heel pad taking the most of it - can be repaired of course. I wanted to keep them but will consider splitting with them if you want a set.

    Cheers,

    Bill

  9. #186
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thanks for the offer on the mats Bill, I am hatching a plan though! I will have one set of mats made with the ultra thick black wool and silk weave edging just because I think those will look great in the car and ass a touch of luxury with your shoes sinking into the carpet! It’s over 1 cm thick wool.

    But then I am also having at least one set of 100% original replica mats made by the same company- they have ordered the real MB Black ribbed fabric in. They needed my templates to produce the mats for the LHD 500E chassis. Once I get these made in a few weeks I will provide details for everyone here & pics of the mats. You guys are free to use the same company who will have my templates on file. The cost is very reasonable they quoted about £50 for the one off set of MB replica mats and the wool is dearer at about £110.

    Tonight I got stuck into ‘test’ re-covering the parcel shelf lid. It went great- I stripped off all the old glue and used spray contact adhesive applied to the back of the fabric and the plastic before pressing it home gently. Then used a putty knife to tuck it in behind the shelf as factory. I had to mask the rear of the lid off so I could spray glue into the track.

    The result is brilliant I am really happy with it! This is the fabric I bought- 2m of.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUEDETRIM-Van-lining-Headlining-material-Easy-to-fit-Foam-Backed-Faux-Suede-/171990605620

    For now I am doing the parcel shelf and the 2 B pillar trims as they are tatty looking. Really it’s not hard to do at all- just trim the material to size and use the spray Glue. Eventually I will buy the dark grey fabric and re-cover the 500E’s headlining too. It’s in good shape but the alcantara suede would look great


    IMG_0888.JPGIMG_0891.JPGIMG_0890.JPG

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  11. #187
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Sounds awesome. That first aid kid cover looks great - can you also do mine?!

    Jokes aside can you send me the details of the wool mats? They sound lush and I'd love a set for mine! Cheers

  12. #188
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    No problem- see the pic attached. The Wool is a Grey sample- but it is available in Black also which I am going for. You can see the difference in thickness between the Luxury Wool and the standard carpet. About 3 times a thick!

    I should have the Wool Mat set here within 7 - 10 Days If I can get the templates away. I don't want to recommend this company until I see what they produce for me- I will load Photos of the new mats when they get here and send you all details for sure.

    After alot of searching I found a Photo of 400E rear mats- see the pic attached. Looking at the 500E's rear matwell's these appear to be the correct shape. I will print them to as best a scale I can and try them in the car later. I will be able to perfect the fitment now I know the OEM shape of V8 rear mats.

    IMG_0892.JPGs-l1600.jpg

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  14. #189
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I don't believe those are Mercedes "OE" 400E floor mats, although the shape does look interesting and like it will work.

    I'll remove and take some photos of my Cocomats rear mats today. I don't believe their shape is as intricate as these 400E mats.

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  16. #190
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Well it was a long day yesterday stripping back & re-covering the parcel shelf but it's back in there now & looks fantastic in the alcantara!

    IMG_0900.JPGIMG_0908.JPG

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  18. #191
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    So it turns out the ETA Harness ordered 4 weeks ago appears to be on back order. So I do not know how long this will take


    What's you guy's experience with on order harnesses, could this run into months waiting?


    For now I need to re-wrap up the ETA harness I cut for inspection and re-fit it back to the car (Since the wires were not degraded at all). I will do this next week in the hope that I get some sort of an update on the new one before then- but it sucks to have to re-fit it right now knowing I'll have to pull it again.

    I guess if the car runs fine- (which it should) then the ETA Re wire can be scheduled for Autumn when I have other work planned again.


    I have a funny feeling I know why the ASR Light came on now. I was refitting the black plastic wire guide thing at the bulkhead and had disconnected the ETA round plug several times with the battery hooked on. Then started it. Perhaps a fault code had triggered limp mode because of the ETA being unplugged with the Battery still on?


    I do now have a Blink reader at least so when it's running again I can check / clear codes.

    I also had the R129 ASR Switch and a W124 Dome light (Complete 124 console dash actually) in my spares hoard. So up next is the ASR Defeat- the switch is going to go in the Fader location for me that's the perfect place for it





  19. #192
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    It is certainly possible that this ETA harness could come back from MB as "NLA". So, be prepared for that possibility. Only time (and MB) will tell....

  20. #193
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    If the key was turned off, there would NOT be a code registered from disconnecting the ETA. The battery does not need to be disconnected. Use your blink code reader and check / clear all codes. The car doesn't need to be running to do this, only need the key turned on, but the ETA and all wiring / connectors / sensors must be plugged in where they belong. If you've never checked codes before, you may encounter "code diarrhea", meaning a bunch of codes which are not necessarily problems. Clear everything, drive the car a bit, and check codes frequently. Any codes which come back quickly are issues you need to address.


  21. #194
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    The Key was not in the ignition when the ETA was unplugged. OK I'll follow my gut feeling and get the ETA ready for re-fitting later this week when the new Gasket gets here.

    Then I'll clear the fault codes- I guess a bunch will be in there post Eco Junk replacement!

    It's just so peculiar that the car threw the ASR Light on and had a rough / lumpy idle after the harnesses were replaced. It makes no sense since the Throttle body was fine before and all connections were double checked & correct on the harnesses. The Blink reader will hopefully tell the story.

    Fingers crossed when I clear whatever code's causing the Limp mode it will be fine after that.

    if that ETA harness turns out NLA then I'll be in the market for a post 1998 ETA! This one can be a spare then assuming it hasn't somehow shit the bed during the harness replacement. Sigh

  22. #195
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Used, post-Eco ETAs [for models with ASR] are not super rare. These days they tend to come off of W140 cars. These 140 ETAs have a longer cable due to the larger real estate of the W140 engine bay, and further-away placement of the connector. As GSXR said in another post, the main thing is that it is a MUST to obtain an ETA from a W140 (or W124) that has ASR.

    The labels stuck to the ETAs also provide a visual indicator about whether it has ASR or not. There are green/white and all-white labels with the part number and manufacture date on them. The green/white labeled ETAs DO NOT have ASR; the all-white labeled ETAs have the ASR.

    More is located here in the Wiki: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/wiki....php?title=ETA

    Cheers,
    Gerry

    Non-ASR ETA for W124
    s-l1600.jpg


    ASR ETA for W124 - M104 6-cyl engine
    s-l1600ASR.jpg

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  24. #196
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thankyou for the info regarding the ETA Gerry- I think I will start the hunt for an ETA now the more I think about it....... hopefully I can turn up a matching ASR W140 ETA in the UK.

    In the meantime I will get to cleaning the Throttle body tonight, the underside of the flap is a little brown / gunged up so this sucker can go back in to get her running as soon as the gasket turns up later this week. (Assuming I can't locate a replacement post 1998 ETA before this Friday!)

    Just thinking, whilst the ETA is off is there anything else I should clean? I see that little metal pipe beside the ETA for example. I'll stuff a rag in the manifold and blast it through with brake cleaner.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    ETA cleaning should go quickly. A few shots of brake or carb cleaner and a rag will make fairly short work of the entire thing. It's a good idea -- particularly for long-term owners -- to have a spare ETA. They are not getting any younger and they do fail from time to time.

    Make sure you clean the EGR vapor tube, which goes from the EGR valve through the manifold. Clean off the top of the manifold where the ETA rests and make a nice sealing surface for the new gasket that I'm sure you already have. You also have the black rubber MAF boot, correct?

    Come to think of it, for ETA & EGR cleaning duties, I recommend the more powerful "carb cleaner" rather than brake cleaner. It does a better job of cutting through the "scrunge" on the ETA butterfly. Soak it for a few minutes, and use a toothbrush or other brush and rags for the cleaning action. Wear gloves, of course. This stuff is very nasty. And clean in a well-ventilated area.

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  27. #198
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK I'll pick up a can of carb cleaner and get busy later

    Ill also plug the ETA back on and read / clear fault codes. I'll note what codes I get and report back later. I can't start her but it will be interesting to see what's stored in there.

  28. #199
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    So here are the stored fault codes I got from the 500E this evening;


    LH Fuel Injection  Pin #4


    No codes readable- no single blink either- nada from this pin? (LED Lights up but no codes or response)

    What's going on here that I can't read any codes from the LH module?

    ABS + ASR - Pin #6
    30  CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC Control Module (N4/1) Interrupted
    33  CAN data bus, Interrupted
    Reset  1 blink= cleared

    EA / CC/ ISC  Pin #7
    3- (Not sure- too many listed under 3)
    6- Starter Lock-out / backup lamp switch (S16/1)
    14- Closed throttle position switch (s29/3)
    Reset  1 blink= cleared

    Base Module Pin #8
    5- Maximum allowable temperature in module box (F23) exceeded
    6- A/C electromagnetic clutch (A9k1) jammed or poly- V- belt broken
    9- LH-SFI control module (N3/2) voltage supply, open circuit
    10- Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F2, open circuit
    11- Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F3, open circuit
    12- Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F1, open circuit
    13- Base module (N16/1) voltage supply output fuse F4, open circuit
    16- A/C electromagnetic clutch (A9k1). Short circuit
    17- Module box blower motor (M2/2), short circuit
    Reset  1 blink= cleared

    ACC- Climate Control  Pin #16
    Strange one this- the LED Flickers when first plugged in continuous. When the button is pressed for a second the fans come on- then the LED Functions as normal thereafter.
    1 Blink = no codes were available.


    EZL / DI  Pin #17
    28- EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) data exchange malfunction
    Reset  1 blink= cleared

    DM- Diagnostic Module  Pin #19
    (No 19 Pin fitted- Euro model)

    These codes were cleared tonight- but remember the car doesn't run currently until the ETA is refitted. I am aware these are historic codes and I will have to wait until 'True' codes re-appear (if any).


    If anyone spots anything notable please let me know! There was something causing the car to run like a dog on the last startup on Jackstands post upper & lower harness replacement. (I couldn't drive it then either) ASR Light on- nothing else.


    Also- the Base module appears to have lots of codes- I did get a replacement Base Module as I suspected it faulty (Power drain). I will test the replacement Base Module for stored codes tomorrow evening.

    After spending so much money and time on renewing the Engine Harnesses I am really keen now to get the ETA back on & fire it up again to see what's going on. Fingers crossed it just fires up as if nothing happend! The parts hipement was dispatched from Germany minus the ETA harness so I'll have the new ETA gasket on Thursday night.

    My throttle body is part number 0001417925. Searching only turns up one on Ebay which looks Eco Junk date too. A few others from other m119 models on there but mostly all the later plug. Mine has the 'Pancake' early plug. I see BBA Reman could rebuild it here in the UK.............. is that worth a shot? If by any chance anyone has a spare post Eco Junk ASR Throttle body please PM me.
    Last edited by JC220; 05-09-2016 at 04:23 PM.

  29. #200
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Following from the code reading from last night- is there any reason why Pin #4 would not give codes? (Not even one Flash- nada)

    I made sure the connection was good at the Pin #4 Itself but otherwise don't really know what to do about that. I tried searching but am finding very little about people not getting codes from the LH module.

    Can some cars be a different Pin for the LH module codes? Or is some part of the LH Module malfunctioning?

    As always I appreciate the Help guys

    EDIT- I have since found this thread-


    http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4273


    This person had the same trouble with a 1992 500E and pulling codes from pin # 4. I also had Pin#8 Code 9 logged in my original Base Module.



    It seemed the Base Module was to blame. I already have the used replacement Base module to hand to I will install it tonight and see if Pin #4 gives codes after that- this person did not state if they were able to read codes from Pin #4 after the base module was replaced though.


    Also, the 39 Pin Plug looks a little dusty with corrosion. I am going to give it a thorough clean with Contact Cleaner and a small nylon brush later. Maybe that weird fault with Pin #16 will go away then.


    Last edited by JC220; 05-10-2016 at 06:55 AM.

  30. #201
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Is the car driving OK, or is all the testing done while the car is in the shop and not being started / driven...?


  31. #202
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    Re: OWNER - JC220



    Hi Dave,

    No the car still can't drive it's on Jackstands (For Waxoyling I need to finish) and the ETA is removed. But plugged in for code reading.

    The car was fine before I renewed both harnesses. Then when I started it on the stands it ran rough with the ASR light on in the dash- it never did that before. I assumed it was ECO Junk ETA wiring which I disturbed for the installation of the new lower & upper harnesses.

    But when removed the ETA wiring was fine...... so I am reading fault codes now looking for clues. And really just looking to see what else I can check prior to the new ETA Gasket arriving on Thursday and firing it up again whilst the CAN Box etc is opened up- hopefully the replacement Base module will allow me to read the pin #4 codes later.

    If my base module was fried- that might have also been the culprit for the Battery Drain which was never put to bed.

    But the Voltage error code to the LH module is interesting also. My Battery drain testing indicated the LH Module was pulling the amperage mostly. It might be worth me pulling the can box and inspecting the LH Power wires carefully?

    Joe

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Hmmm. I'd consider waiting until you can start & drive the car again. If it drives normally, there may not be an issue. Remind me again what part number your LH module is that's currently installed? Do you have a spare of the same number?


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    Re: OWNER - JC220




    My LH Module is 014 545 17 32

    I couldn't locate one for weeks but just spotted one on Ebay. Described as Grade A condition and with a 3 Month Warranty I snapped it up. Should be here in a week or two. (Coming from Poland)

    Even if mine's not faulty I did always intend to have a full set of spare modules.

    I think that module I have is early (Euro specific maybe- I'm not sure?) and seem few & far between

    Yes I guess I can't get far without the sucker running- should be running by Thursday / Friday night when I get the ETA back on

  34. #205
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK, cool, that is the correct 500E module. And that particular part number is quite rare, it's the "late 1992" WOT module. Dunno what the difference is between that and the earlier, more common 012- module. Regardless, it's a good idea to have spares! Just make sure both work ok, and the fuel pump relay does not click with the engine running (start engine, remove right rear seat cushion, check green relay).


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  36. #206
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK so I replaced the Base Module- it had less codes stored so I cleared them.

    Still no codes from Pin #4....


    BUT the ETA is now throwing codes (Even without the car running)


    Codes 3 & 11 keep popping up every time I clear them. (Pin #7)


    The ETA only makes a brief click when the Ignition is on- no continuous buzzing noises. Nor does the Throttle Plate move when the Throttle Lever is moved.


    I think this means its FUBAR?


    I contacted BBA Reman in England today. The price for them to rebuild is not un-reasonable at around £200 but they also offer a Lifetime Warranty on the Repair. Is this the Route I should take?

    Finding an ETA with the big connector is proving difficult


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    That typically means either the ETA is dead, or the E-GAS module is defective, or both. (Assuming all fuses are good, modules seated, yadda yadda...)


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  39. #208
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes it seems somehow the ETA died with the harness replacement. There must be some sort an issue with the wires to it with having moved them even though they look 100% AOK

    So I'll have to send the ETA to BBA reman now for testing before I waste more time re-fitting it again. The fact that the plug and harness I ordered 4 weeks ago from MB is still MIA really doesn't help matters.

  40. #209
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Maybe I should start a new thread for more response to this but

    what do you guys think of BBA Reman for ETA's? I would like mine tested / rebuilt with a warranty here in the UK. They seem like my best option and the price is bearable. Lifetime warranty offered also.

    however I see good & bad reviews on their repairs regarding MB ETA's- what are you guys's experiences?

    Some people say they only rewire them for example.... If that's the case I can do that myself. I will phone their office tomorrow for more info before I commit to sending it off I guess but if anyone has used them before I'd love to hear from you

  41. #210
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Sorry for all the posts- but I found out just now what the problem was......

    I AM AN IDIOT!


    I double checked everything on the car again- wires all good. Then back to the CAN Box pushed hard on all the modules & hit them HARD with the palm of my fist- all good.... or so I thought. I looked back through my Photos from before they were removed- they looked to be sitting about 2mm lower in there. I had to use a mallet to beat them home the extra 2mm or so.


    Now the ETA Buzzes cleary for a few seconds and set back to rest after a couple of seconds each time the ignition is turned on. Plus pin #4 now gives codes also. Pin #7 codes not reappearing except for a new one now- 14. No more code testing until it's running again.


    Bugger- lesson learned.

    I will have to figure out why they are so stuck- I mean I had to HIT them to get them in- not normal. Light corrosion on the casing maybe I’ll clean that up and maybe smear a little silicon grease on the runners to free them up.


    So it seems all should be good to refit the ETA and fire it up this weekend finally. Still Waxoyling to do but it will be nice to have it running again at least even if it's on Jack Stands still!




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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yup, that's a common issue... some modules are a TIGHT fit, and require a pretty good whacking to fully seat! Glad it was an easy fix.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes it's good that all is OK again that one flummoxed me for a bit. I knew the ETA was fine! Those modules sure are tight- from now on any time they're out I'll use a mallet to seat them.

    Tonight I had also spoken to Vicktor in New York by phone (restore your Mercedes). Very nice guy- he also explained (without me saying first) that all pancake plug early m119 ETA's DO NOT suffer from Eco Junk problems. Only the ones with the plug with O ring on it (1993+?)

    This explains why my wiring is fine on the ETA.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Recommended to tap each CAN computer with a rubber mallet to fully seat them !!

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    First time I've heard that. Could be true thought. Definitely not true for upper wiring harnesses

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    That is interesting. I've never heard that either. Guess we'll need to keep an eye out for pancake-plug ETA's with bad wiring? Anyone have an example?


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I hope that is right. My late 93 has the pancake-style connector on the ETA and replacement has been on my to-do list after seeing the condition of my original lower harness wiring. Maybe I can take it off the list =Ø€

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes before I even mentioned the condition of the wires Viktor asked me what type of plug the ETA had. I said the early Pancake one.

    He went on to say that the early ETA's with the large connector do not have Eco Junk problems at all. So they are normally harder to repair from his perspective since any problems will be deeper in the unit. He said he has NEVER seen a Pancake connector ETA with degraded wiring- they are always 100% fine.


    He went on to say the later clamshell connector ETA (1993+) with the O ring on the plug DO suffer badly from Eco Junk as we know already.


    I think the Wiki should be updated with this info so others don't assume the worst like I did and pull their ETA.

    Bottom line IMO is if the Cruise and Idle are fine and you have the large round plug part no 140 540 15 81 type ETA- regardless of build date it will not have degraded wiring.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK, so the parts order arrived yesterday so I can get on with getting the car running again tonight hopefully. Just one thing- when re-fitting the ETA what is the Torque setting for those 4X 5mm Allen bolts that secure it?


    And also when we are on the subject of Torque settings etc what is the best resource for Torque settings / service info for the 124.036 chassis? If anyone can point me in the direction of a good CD Rom manual etc I will buy one. I presume something like this-



    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-W...-/151159028325


    But I would like to take your advice on the latest & most comprehensive version available?


    I have 3 W124 Saloons currently, a W211 (Daily driver- no manual needed for it!) And my brother has a W126 500SEL which we restored a few years ago and I do intend to buy a 560 SEC myself soon enough so having some W126 info on there too would be advantageous.


    I have Haynes manuals (I know Haynes manuals not the best resource but I really only use them for the Torque settings- full stop!) at home for the m102 & m104 motor's but nothing for the m119. Most W124 manuals only cover the regular models not the V8 one




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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Very interesting mate and glad to know the ETA is fine!

    Can you share photos of the pancake plug? I want to see if my car has the same. If I disturb wiring around there my ASR light does come on and the car limps so I suspect I have dodgy wiring. I have left it well alone for now though.

    Luckily I have a W140 500SEL ETA sitting around which I think will fit my car.

    Cheers,

    Bill

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Factory manual is online here:
    http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...W124/Main.html

    ETA R&R is in Group 30, here's a direct link:
    http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...9/30-1262E.pdf


    ETA torque spec in the manual appears to be an error, it says 25Nm, however I believe that is WAY too high for an M6 bolt. It says to use new micro-encapsulated bolts, but you can clean the threads and use blue Loc-Tite as an alternative. I'd stick with 9-10Nm torque (a hair past snug) on these unless you enjoy installing Heli-coils or Timeserts.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220


    As always- thanks for the info Dave

    Yes that Torque setting sounds too high I set the wrench at 10NM & that felt like plenty. Thanks for the links too they will come in very handy


    Yes sure- see the pic attached for what the early ETA plug looks like

    Due to me not malleting the modules fully home I had a false alarm on the ETA! But it was a good opportunity to properly clean the gunge off the underside of the Throttle plate and I can now declare it ECO Junk free.

    It does sound like your ETA has degrading wires in it- you must have the one with the later plug (Clamshell type). They can be re-wired easily enough, I re-wired my own 3.6 AMG m104 ETA recently and it's now faultless.

    It’s just past Midnight here & I just got the ETA re-fitted and the Engine running again. It’s running better than it has to date with the new plugs, wire harnesses and all the other servicing that’s been done

    Now I need to get back to the Waxoyling so I can get it back on it’s wheels next weekend


    IMG_0735.JPG

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    So I got the car running OK last night- idled fine & revved freely for half an hour. Great!!


    SHORT LIVED.


    Started it this morning and it keeps going into limp mode. Now its running these are the fault codes-


    I think this one is the most important-


    Pin #4 Code 17 will not go away & cannot be cleared this is-
    No CAN data transmission with EA/CC/ISC control module (N1/3) or CC/ISC control module (N4/3)
    This is the only code on the Pin #4 but again- it cannot be cleared.

    Pin #6 Code 30 can be cleared but keeps re-appearing on each startup.
    CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1), interrupted

    Pin #7 Code 14 can be cleared but keeps re-appearing on each startup.
    CAN databus:
    Message from EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1) faulty

    Message from ABS / ASR control module (N30/1) faulty
    Message from LH-SFI control module (N3/1) faulty

    All other Pins are clear of codes except pin # 30 (Airbags) which gives codes 3, 4, 5, 6 & 8. However, I have the convenience module removed currently so I am not sure if these are real codes or not.


    So I appear to have CAN data faults here. Maybe this all relates back to the original power drain issue..... but why is the ETA going into Limp mode then? Codes only show CAN errors so it seems the ETA is not at fault. It did run 100% fine last night too which affirms my opinion that the ETA is fault free.


    How would you guys deal with these codes? Is it time to pull the CAN box surround and take a closer look at the wiring in below? Should I be looking through wiring diagrams to highlight which cables would be most suspect and targeting those first?

    Edit- the car also has a missing selector bush on the gear selector. Could this be making the NSS put the car into limp mode? I do have a new bush to fit to the selector.

    Last edited by JC220; 05-14-2016 at 06:09 AM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    YES, the gear selector bushing will cause problems! But it usually triggers code 30 on pin 6, and code 2 on pin 7, along with limp mode.

    Pin 7 code 14 is: "Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)"

    That is located inside the car behind the accelerator pedal, and it will cause limp mode. Need to inspect/replace as needed:
    http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1438

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK this is strange.......... but here goes

    When working at my MB's I tend to use the throttle lever on top of the Engine. Normally no issues there.

    So to summarise this is what was happening. Car starts and idles happily. As soon as I used the Engine throttle mech directly to rev it shat itself almost instantly and went limp mode.

    When racking my head just now trying to figure out WTF is wrong now I realised last night I used the In car Throttle to rev........ so I tried that- AOK! No limp mode.

    So that throttle siwtch throws the car into limp mode and puts on the ASR light if the engine throttle mech is used directly? (Unlike every other Benz I own / work at?) Edit- yep I see the ECU expects input from that Throttle Position switch located inside the car to tell the ECU that Throttle is applied. I did not know that switch existed on this car- but now I do I guess that's problem solved! Note to myself- never use the Throttle linkage to rev the 500E!

    Man this car is just F'ing with me now!

    Last edited by JC220; 05-14-2016 at 08:48 AM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes, you CANNOT use the in-engine compartment throttle linkage to rev the engine. It WILL throw a code by design. You must use the gas pedal.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes I realise this now- the car got me good on that one!


    There are a couple of other issues I dont need to deal with right now but will need to address soon-


    The Heat is on all the time inside the car- no matter if the dials are set to cold. I presume the Duo Valve needs re-building / replacing. I did hope the new ceramic fuses would have cured that particular issue but obviously not.


    The Side vents also do not appear to let any air through at all although I have a funny feeling this is something to do with the vent dial- nothing changes when it is turned around, air always out at the screen and top centre vent. Ill have to take that dial apart and see whats going on.


    And finally the Engine Air pump is making what seems like way too much noise. I think the air pump bearings are preparing to shit the bed. Am I better to shell out for a remanufactured Air Pump or is it possible to renew the Bearing(s) inside? Or is it any use to remove the pump, pry the seal off the bearing and try lubricating the bearing before it fails?



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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Noisy pumps are USUALLY not the bearing, it's the pump internal organs. If only the bearing is bad, there is a replacement Chinese bearing available but it's not easy to replace without damaging the pulley. Most of the time, you will be much better off buying a rebuilt pump. And, you need to also replace the backflow valve at the cylinder head; and the control valve too, for the pump warranty (or, exhaust may kill your new pump). Also plan on all new rubber hoses - the old ones will be fossilized.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Thanks for the info Dave- I see rebuilt Air pumps here-


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-SMO...-/161018717706


    These Air pumps are right pricey buggers! Plus the Core charge refund of $75 isnt going to work for me since posting it there will cost more than that. I will try to locate a refurb place preferably in the UK. The pump only makes noise when it's engaged- once it turns off after a minute or whatever with the engine cold it's 100% silent. So I think that suggest it's an internal fault & not the bearing.


    I sent of the mat templates with my own dimensions based on the shape of the 400E mats. So I am looking forward to getting the new mats in a week or so hopefully.


    I have rust repair welding complete yesterday which included removing the LH fender to properly repair the front of the cill. I am also pumping the chassis voids with clear Waxoyl this week- rust ain't ever going to be a problem with this car again! So I still need to do some work under the car to complete the waxoyl underbody shutz to the LH side. Then refit all the cladding etc again.

    Still need to re-trim the B pillar covers with Alcantara and deep clean the interior before the new mats get here. Plus make and fit a new wiring loom for the boot lid. And for that selector bush- it looks like a PITA for access. I may just remove the complete gear shifter mech from inside the car. Then fit the bush using a socket and vice- refit selector assembly. Rather than lying under the car for hours swearing at it!


    The heater fan will also be pulled now so I can determine the correct part no (EPC had way too many variations) and try Dry Lubing it first to cure the hugely annoying squeel it has. I am going to try to clean the Duo Valve and check that it's getting power / clicking when the heater is turned off.

    Currently heat is on constant- not good since we have very unusually hot(ish) weather in Ireland ATM! I need to address that sooner than later. Then in a couple of weeks it's going for the A/C service to see if I can get that running correctly again.

    One thing- those vents inside the car- are they Vacuum controlled? The side vents are non operational currently can't really figure why. When the switch is turned around to blow air out of them nothing happens......


    Planning a good long run with the car soon up through the North of Ireland. This has turned into a mini resto so I'm very much looking forward to getting some miles on it again!


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    No I hadn't seen that- thankyou for the link!

    Ill get busy reading when I get home later

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    That eBay price is high. Autohaus has them for 40% less (but, with higher core charge):
    http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...rchbutton.y=12

    BTW, the climate control vents are vacuum controlled... but we only have automatic climate control here in USA. The end dash vents have NO vacuum control flaps at all. If your car has manual climate control, I don't know how those work...


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Yes the price did seem high, thanks for the link I will check with them how much it’ll cost me to get it here


    Well I did a little testing tonight on the heating system-


    As per Gerry’s DIY- “There is one way to test the function of this sampler fan: you take about a 1-inch square piece of light (tissue) paper and place it directly on the little grill next to the sunroof switch. Then you turn the ignition on (either accessory mode or turn the engine on) and the ACC system in any position (economy, defrost, AC, etc.) except the OFF mode via the pushbuttons on the dashboard. A working sampler fan will hold the piece of tissue paper up against the grill via a tiny "suction" action. If the paper falls off the grill downward onto the center console or seat, you know immediately that your sampler fan is inoperative”


    I did this test and the tissue held tight to the vent. As soon as I turned the ignition off it fell to the Seat. So the sampler fan is AOK


    So the Duo Valve- I had a spare valve (about 3 actually!) so I figured out that the centre pin is positive= terminal. The other 2 pins (One Each side) are triggered by Neutral. When the Neutral is applied to either Pin(s) the valve shuts that side off. This was very easy to test rig using crocodile clips. So when I have the car running again in a days or two I will use the clips to power the valve up, thus bypassing the car’s A/C system and shutting the Duo Valve manually. If the Hot water still comes through then I know the Duovalve is faulty for sure BEFORE taking it out.


    Then the lack of ventilation control, I also have a spare w124 console with the exact same A/C controls as in the 500E- see the pics. The Vent Adjustment switch has a mechanical cable sticking out the back. It seems to me this has somehow popped off or fauled in my car so that’s the first thing I will check.


    Finally- onto the ventilation fan- it’s definitely the main hamster cage one that’s making the racket. My car has no Pollen Filters- does this Fan Motor seem like the correct one?-


    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Blo...-/130629736298


    (Again I cannot make head or tail of the EPC for the Ventilation motor- about a dozen options listed) It does seem like this one will fit and with a 10 year Warranty and at that price I don't think I can go wrong


    IMG_0936.JPGIMG_0935.JPGIMG_0934.JPG


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Just a quick question, the 500E is booked in for Friday next week for the A/C Evac / Leak test + re-gas.

    Are there any A/C system service parts which should be changed during the service? If so I need to order them in advance since they will not have parts for a w124!

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Depends largely on what they find and if/where they find a leak. The most common place for leaks is at the evaporator, which is buried deep in the dashboard of the car. It requires removal of the dash and quite a bit of the underlying central infrastructure. Mostly labor, and quite a bit of it. If you do need to replace your evap, count on several thousand quid.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Can't test AC until the always-on-heat is fixed first; so you don't get air above ambient temp. Should be able to connect refrigerant gauges and tell if the system is at least holding a charge; if the compressor runs you can get a rough idea of charge amount based on gauge readings - even if the air out the vents is hot due to the heater core fed with hot coolant.


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Ok thanks Gerry & Dave Im just in from doing more work on the car


    I jumpered the Duo Valve & it is faulty for sure. One side clicks clearly and the other side lets a soft dull thunk when energised. And running the car up to temp with both sides permanently jumpered confirmed the duo valve FUBAR as the heat was on full blast.


    Yes I guess until that valve is replaced getting the A/C serviced is pointless so Ill cancel that for now


    I presume the Duo Valve is 500E Specific, anyone have a part number of the one I need

    EDIT- I found this http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1274 I will contact that company and see if they can rebuild the 500E's Duo Valve

    Also- regarding the A/C Service the bit I was thinking about replacing was the Receiver Dryer. I remember reading before that it is good practice to renew those every few years for optimum A/C. They are inexpensive too so I might order one and have them fit it during the A/C service when its re-scheduled again.


    Thing is though- there might not be anything wrong with the A/C at all if the duo valve is faulty.....

    Last edited by JC220; 05-18-2016 at 03:56 PM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    OK so for that Duo Valve I see the price is around about £1000

    I'm surprised that no one makes aftermarket valves or repair kits (As far as I can tell anyway) they are bound to make a killing if they did given the mega prices MB want for new valves.....


    So after the recent spending spree this is a step too far! Repair or good used replacement is my only option.


    I might give this a go first-


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jhPEfLI45s



    The way I see I have nothing to lose at least opening it up & seeing if its full of goo or whatever. This 500E has only covered about 2k miles in the last 10 years!! So it has been sitting in a garage un used.

    When the car is off the Duo Valve is in the Open (Heat) position. When the ignition is turned on and if the dials are set to cold then the solenoids click and its supposed to close.


    So it would make sense that the car sitting for 10 years has corroded / gunged up the valve to the point where it cannot close fully anymore.


    I will drive to a Mercedes breakers yard this weekend and see if they would have a Duo Valve with the same number / positioning of outlets that I can use on the 500E so I at least have a useable spare on hard should something be broken when I take the original 500E valve apart




    EDIT- I located a used matching 4 port 500E type Duo Valve today. Bought & on it's way here
    Last edited by JC220; 05-19-2016 at 03:41 AM.

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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    So the replacement Duo Valve turned up- its the wrong one. I described the 500E valve in great detail and the seller said he had one the EXACT match....... but the one that turned up has 2 Outlets on one side instead of 3. BUT the solenoids look the same at least


    I am going to pull the solenoids off the valve fitted in my car & see what's going on with it! The way I see it it's already broken anyway. Hopefully I can repair the 500E duo valve using some parts out of the valve I just bought. Or maybe all it needs is a de-sludge and cleaning of the valves.

    On other news I'm done with a very thorough Waxoyling including spraying the inside of the chassis rails! The Front driver's fender was also removed from the car and the entire inside Waxoyled. The other side will get the same treatment before this winter.

    The car will be back on it's wheels tomorrow at long last after the mega service I'm working around the clock now to get her ready


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    I got the 500E duo valve out..... look what I found!! There was nothing wrong with it at all besides some idiot letting a slither of rubber get into the cooling system. It had nicely wedged on side of the valve open to full heat


    Rebuilt & tested- problem solved!
    It pays to take these things apart before buying another, they are pretty robust. Now I have yet another Duo Valve to add to my spares collection

    IMG_0959.JPGIMG_0958.JPG


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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    NICE! Have to love an easy fix. But how in the world did that piece get through the pipes/hoses...?


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