Well as I had suspected now that duo valve is functioning again the A/C is fantastic!! Ice cold air right as soon as the hot air is turned off. Plus with the EC mode turned off the side vents are working properly.
Ill get get the A/C re gassed anyway it's only £45 and they drain & re fill with the fresh lubricating oil etc. At least I have no huge bill waiting for bust A/C parts
Well today is a good day! I was up at the streak of dawn prepping the car for it’s first mini road trip since the Mega Service. Drove it around the coast for just under 4 hours and it didn’t miss a beat. Cruise, Climate control etc is all 100% working as it should and no warning lights post harness replacement!
I must admit it was heaving going there for a while I almost took on too many jobs at once but I don’t regret that now the car has came on leaps and bounds since I bought it a short time ago.
A few applications of WOT confirms the car is still blisteringly fast and now it’s Eco Junk Free! It also now sports the E500 badge to help distinguish it from it's lesser brethren
So now the car is on the road and running correctly it's time to get back to the performance exhaust I would like, I got a quote of £1000ish for an exhaust specialist to knock up a cat back system (using an off the shelf Powerflow rear silencer- £90- 120ish part?) which I do not think is worth it since I could make a similar system myself for an absolute fraction of the cost..........
I already have a new boxed Magnaflow silencer sitting around that I can use on the 500E. (For the E36 build- but I'll get another for that car no problem- it doesn't need it right now) In fact the Magnaflow silencer I bought is pretty much identical to 2 Phast's. Single 3 inch inlet & outlet.
I want to keep the Cat's original and un-molested so the system will go from the twin cat pipes back, deleting the centre muffler and running to the magnaflow. Here is my plan;
Use a 2 - 1 collector Y piece to merge the twin Cat outlet pipes into 1x 3 Inch.
From the Y collector back use a single 3inch pipe and mandrel bends to make my way to the Magnaflow Backbox.
3 Inch Mandrel bends to get me out of the Magnaflow silencer below the bumper to dual tips.
I'll use stainless wire in my Mig to tack the system together on a friend's lift. Then take it off & have a TIG pro weld it all up for me.
I am not expecting Power gains or anything just to release some of the V8 rumble out the back!
The stock middle & rear muffler assembly will be kept, therefore the mod can be reversed very easily to return the car to 100% stock exhaust if desired.
Right now I don't have mega bucks to spend on the Exhaust- but I do think that I should be able to come up with a good sounding stainless Catback system myself.
I'd love to hear you guy's opinions & suggestions for how I can get the best sound in terms of the pipe configuration etc
I was working on the car again last night and went to disconnect the cable to the Air Pump. It runs right in underneath the front headlamp and I can feel the edge of some sort of plug but I'm not sure since I can't see it at all.
Is there a plug in under there & if so do I really have to remove the headlamp assembly just to unhook it??
I'm going to view a few m119 spare motors in a salvage yard this weekend. I'm hopeful that one of them might have an Air Pump 'bypass' pulley on it that I can snag to enable me to delete the Air Pump on my 500E. If not ill order that pulley from MB that Bing had posted pics of before.
Well the Battery Drain is gone for good this time!
The Pic is somewhat self explanatory! (Note that the only cable which was causing the drain was the ECU power feed. Everything else- central locking etc functions 100% normal- you would not know the relay is even there except taking the boot trim out) The Relay will now be tucked away and the boot trim panel put back in.
There are ZERO ill effects of this setup- the car knows no different! The relay is powered up by the ignition switch on position 1 (For a few milliseconds headstart before ignition – Starter).
I will find the root of the problem when I have more time but- for right now- for the first time in years I suspect the Battery can be left connected without going flat overnight
Going to unhook that air pump cable shortly. I figure that headlamp will have to come out- bummer
Would you be attending the E500 meet on 18 June? It would be great to meet you and see the car.
In short I was the ideal buyer for this car, over the coming months / years I will restore this car top to bottom properly to the highest standards possible!
I am in Florida in June this year but for sure I will bring the car over next year & I’d love to see your 500E too and the other cars there. I might even have my brother drive the E36 124 over there if it’s built by then- which it should be!
I took it for a good run tonight again and Its running like a clock with that Relay in there I drove around alot and turned it on & off maybe 20 times to test for warning lights etc- none. Plus for the first time I put the Shifter into B (FGS)- it’s nuts!
One quick question- are these the correct OE references for a 1992 500E Distributer Cap & Rotor Arm? (I can give someone the VIN if they need it to be sure)
MB Caps- A119 158 01 02 (x2)
MB Rotor- A1191580231 (x2)
Bosch caps- 03367 (x2)
Bosch Rotor- ?? I think it’s 165201501?
I noticed last night that the caps on my car currently are Bremi- I HATE that brand!! I want them in the bin sooner than later!
If I can source Bosch made in Spain I will go for those- despite seeing some negative comments on Bosch caps I have always found them A1 in quality & never had issues with them at all. I have done several comparisons with the Bosch caps & OE MB and they are identical in every way except the Bosch boxed has the MB part number removed!
Check my last post mate, part numbers on there. Not fitted them yet but I've done this job before and they look right. Also get the seals for the insulators.
What are you paying for Bosch units? I paid £330 for the above off genuine auto parts. Might be worth spending a little more and getting MB parts. The distributor cap is stamped Bosch though. I will report back once fitted over the weekend.
Yes I had seen your post Bill and the part numbers on there. Those MB caps are Bosch made in Spain so I will only buy Bosch Spain items. (Not Russia made for example)
The Bosch caps are about £45ea from USA. Bosch Rotors about £30- £40 ea. So for the pair of Bosch caps, Rotors + the MB seal rings all should be around £172 inc shipping. So it's quite a saving & from my personal experience the Spain made Bosch caps are 100% identical to new OE MB caps.
I also want to buy Beru Ignition leads now with the caps hence wanting to be savvy where I can without compromising on the quality IMO
Hope that makes sense!
On the subject of USA parts- I will be in Florida in 3 weeks and driving down to Key West etc. USA parts prices are always SO much lower than here!
I would very much like to just bring some extra dollars with me and buy the Bosch caps & rotors for example when I'm over there.
Can someone tell me what USA Auto parts stores I could go to for these parts off the shelf maybe? I could even phone / order for collection online when I'm there a few days in advance and have them order them in for me if they don't keep them stock.
For example our main parts distributer here is Euro Car Parts where they have parts counters all over.
Last edited by JC220; 05-26-2016 at 02:21 AM.
Mmmmmm decisions decisions..... I think Black for the 500E...... these are OE Mercedes materials. The Blue & Cream going in my other w124's.
Not dragging my feet here .... this has been an absolute session the original company I contacted went bust just before they got to making the mats.... Not out of pocket but much time was lost.
Full Mat update coming next week when my first new set for the 500E get's here
The 500E got it's A/C service done today. (Preventative maintenance- the A/C was working) It passed all the leak tests with flying colours and got re-filled with 1002gramms of fresh refrigerant and lubricating oil etc. Dye was also added to the system so that if any leaks occur in the future they be detected with a UV Lamp.
Driving it for a good run tomorrow to a Mercedes parts yard. Going to pick up some goodies. Hoping to get a m119 Air Pulley bypass pully (Chances are slim I guess), some more trim bits & maybe a 150amp alternator which I will have rebuilt- then install in the 500E.
The mats were made & dispatched today- getting them early next week
It’s this company I used
So this morning the engine bay still looked like this
Something had to be done......
10 hours later...... this is more like it!! I Steam cleaned the engine bay removing years of grime from every nook- but taking proper care whilst doing so! All 100% AOK & dried out before I hooked the Battery back on.
Screenwash bottle still missing. It was so filthy inside I was afraid of getting Legionnaires from the damn thing. New one will be ordered- but for now it’s spotless inside & out to be re-fitted tomorrow.
This is a base line only- many months of anal retentive detailing will follow now
Last edited by JC220; 05-28-2016 at 02:00 PM.
VERY nice! I've enjoyed following your work to date.
92 500e 58,500 miles
92 500e 180,000+ miles
93 500e 179,000 miles sold
92 500e 110,000 miles sold
I noticed yesterday that the 2x front A/C Aux Fans are squealing- now I’ll order 2x new replacement ones (Aftermarket).
I’ve been trying to confirm the part number it seems it should be 000 500 85 93- can anyone confirm this part number as correct please?
I have tried looking on the only resource I have but it seems alot of stuff is missing from this catalog-
Be careful with aftermarket fans. See photos at link below. ACM fans may need to have the new motors swapped on to your old/existing frames...
Well I got the blower motor replaced last night. The aftermarket motor appeared just fine quality wise except the dimension width of the assembly was just touching one side of the casing. So I elongated the screw slots in the motor bracket to centre it. 100% AOK now the old motor really was shot! Very bound up & squeaky.
Much better airflow now too & silence! But speeds 2&3 behave the same as on the old motor so it appears I need to renew the blower regulator also. On my car the blower regulator was not inside the blower casing- but located elsewhere I think on the bulkhead I’ll check later and order a new one.
Taking the 500E to a custom exhaust place tomorrow to get a quote and hear their ideas for a stainless cat back system
Ok so I found the fan resistor it is up on the bulkhead behind the brake booster. Pic attached
Looking on here the 2 part numbers don’t look anything like it when I google the part numbers (A 124 820 27 10 + A 124 821 21 51)
This is what it looks like-
But I’d rather buy it new.
I’d be really grateful if someone could tell me the correct part number for this type of blower relay
I have since found part number 124 821 10 60, this appears to be the correct one for my 500E.
Last edited by JC220; 06-02-2016 at 06:48 AM.
As a new owner, I'm really glad to see this. It gives me a good starting point with mine.
1966 230SL, 1969 300SEL 6.3
1985 300TD, 1990 350SDL
1992 500E, 1993 500E
2002 SL500, 2008 GL320 CDI
2013 S63 w/ Perf Pkg, 2007 Audi S4 Cab
Is there a way of testing the function of the rear SLS struts / spheres?
The car has a harsh ride over some rough roads particularly at the rear of the car. I suppose the E60 suspension is great on the Autobahn but not so good on some of our crap roads!
One thing that makes me suspicious about the spheres is when I bought the car the SLS fluid was down low. It took a full litre to top up the SLS tank. I was sure the underside of the car would have been soaked in fluid but totally clean..... strange. No leaks since either SLS fluid level stayed up.
The back end feels unusually stiff and almost like there is no damping at all. I plan to fit new front shocks this year anyway but I know nothing about SLS systems!
Also from researching the part numbers it seems the original part number was 124 320 03 15 has been replaced with 140 328 05 15- does anyone concur?
Last edited by JC220; 06-02-2016 at 09:44 AM.
If the back end feels very stiff, almost rock hard, it's pretty likely the nitrogen spheres have failed. If so, change the ASAP as driving like that can damage the SLS hydrolegs, which are expensive stock and about 3x-4x more expensive for AMG E60 bits (assuming those are still available).
If the SLS hydrolegs are original, I'd consider replacing them at the same time as the spheres...
To pile on to what Dave said, change the accumulators (spheres), pn #140 328 05 15 (about $131 ea last month from MB Gainesville). If you're just changing the spheres, GVZ's How To (in 126 sub-forum) lays it out clearly, other than the location of the spheres, changing them in a W124 is basically the same procedure and not overly difficult. Even if you don't need to replace the rear hydro struts, this is also a good time to check out the lower strut bushings and rubber upper bump stops (another GVZ How To). The rubber (2 each side, 1 upper and 1 lower) probably will need replacing (esp. if original to car)(warning, only 1 left of lower mount in US as of 5/16), and if the struts themselves are bad, this would be a good time to replace (though pricey, IIRC, the cost of each strut new is in the $400-500 range, give or take). Good luck.
Thanks Dave & vatc5637- I have 2 new spheres on order! I am certain the spheres are full of fluid which is why the fluid must have been so low when I bought the car (with no signs of SLS leakage externally). If they split inside then the missing fluid had filled the spheres.
I do hear a chattering type knock from the rear of the car at times- it could well be those hydro strut bushes / mounts which I will check for sure. I do hope the hydro struts are OK since this car has the E60 suspension- I agree with Dave they are very unlikely to still be available. The car won’t be driven aagain until the spheres are replaced for fear of damaging the E60 bits.
I went and got a set of genuine MB plugs at my local dealer and opened the box eagerly anticipating the magical MB plugs with brass tips....... eh just like regular F8DC4’s?
And I took the car to a custom fabricator to discuss the cat back exhaust tonight. I was very impressed with their setup and they are over qualified with 1800HP+ custom car builds all around the place! They TIG all the stuff, fully polished and Mandrel bends through to making one off manifolds with special metals / Zirotec coatings etc. I am having them replicate a twin 3 inch 'slash' tailpipe system. (Brabus style I think)
Importantly they also understand that the 500E is a special vehicle and they said without me asking that they will make the mod 100% undoable by being able to simply bolt the original rear exhaust section back on at any point using the factory bolts / flanges etc. They said it will be show quality and looking at all the cars they were working on I have no reason to doubt that at all.
So if the quote they are to give me tomorrow is digestible they will get the car in when I get back from FL to fabricate the cat back system
Ah, those are Beru plugs. Still fine to use, and correct for the car/engine.
The Bosch F8DC4 are a different MB part number. There is a third part number as well for Champion brand plugs, C11-YCC.
OK time to delve into rear Hydro suspension repair! To recap- the rear suspension has the suppleness of a concrete block and there is a light chattering knock coming from the back end somewhere.
I have a pair of Corteco Spheres ordered. Should be here next week. My MB dealer has zero stock so it was just as fast ordering Corteco Spheres who I believe are the OE supplier.
I could find no bad suspension bushings under the car at all (All very good) it seems highly likely the SLS strut lower bushings are shot. Pic from under the car when it was on the lift att.
Now this car has E60 Suspension. HOWEVER- I have found that MB 124 320 42 13 translates to Sachs 102503. These are listed as compatible with E60's also - see attachment.
So if those lower strut bushings are shot (Highly likely this is the source of the chattering knock) I may have to renew both rear shocks since lower bushings appear to be non replaceable
Tomorrow night I intend to remove the old spheres and remove both SLS struts for inspection. Then order up whatever stuff I need to re-assemble therafter.
I also want to check what bump pads are fitted to the front springs. The car sits a little high at the rear currently (+3 - 5mm?) so I would like to get the next front bump pad up to correct the ride height. She's pretty damn low slung so I ain't going any lower!
But it can take roundabouts at 110mph with the E60 springs so not all bad
2013 Sachs webcat Mercedes.jpg
Once you get the spheres in and the fluid level proper (dare I say actually replacing struts get the upper bushings anyway) then check your stance a week later. The car will settle into the new rubber for sure, you may find stance perfect. My advice is to wait on front until you complete the rear and evaluate a week later.
249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320
1991 560 SEC 199/268
2014 E350 Cab 799/264
Thanks nocfn yes I'll leave the front alone then & see how it settles once the SLS is repaired
Thanks for the tip!
Note the Sachs 102503 is also listed for standard 124.036. They are similar, but likely not the same, as the stock rear SLS (OE are # 102256). The E60 items are definitely different, sure you can use the standard stuff in place of E60 parts, but it will have different valving / etc.
See photos of the 102503 next to OE here, post #2:
Attachment 41333 Attachment 41334
If the lower bushings are shot on my struts then I will have to have bushings altered / made for them. Maybe Polybush could help if I get the exact dimensions from the old bushings assuming they are bad. I'll check them tomorrow & report back. Fingers crossed the struts are OK or I'm in trouble!
The rear struts have a significant amount of downward pressure on them in addition to damping forces. Remember, those struts are part of an auxiliary SPRING system, in addition to serving as dampers. There have to be spherical/ball joints on the bottom of the struts. There is no rubber bushing that will work well, and there is most definitely no poly bushing that will work well, not that I could ever tolerate poly bushings in any other application on a street car, either...
Putting the fun in dysfunction...
Klink is correct. If the lower spherical joint on the SLS hydroleg is bad... (1) there's no suitable replacement joint that can be installed, and (2) if the lower joint is shot, it's VERY likely either the foam stop buffer is disintegrated, and/or the internal parts are worn. Bottom line - if the SLS hydrolegs are original/old/questionable, just replace with new OE. It should be a once-per-ownership expense. They are wear items just like brake pads & rotors, but with a longer service life.
I plan to remove at least one SLS strut tomorrow to see what condition the lower mounts are in. Fingers crossed the knock is coming from somewhere else although I know it’s highly likely to be the struts.
I’ll update tomorrow when I get at least one strut out & see if I can get a part number off em
The AMG E60 rear SLS hydroleg is still orderable... that doesn't mean it's AVAILABLE, but it's a decent chance you might be able to score them. And cheap too! Only twice the cost of standard 500E bits!!
HWA-124-320-15-30 - AMG E60 front strut
HWA-124-320-03-13 - AMG E60 rear SLS hydroleg
OK so £1200+ I bloody knew it! Shite.
Rather than crawl around my garage floor all evening I will try to get the car on a friend’s lift later, pull the rear wheels and get a good look at the SLS struts.
I presume that if the cladding on the lower arms is removed along with the lower SLS strut mounting bolt we will be able to prise the lower SLS mount upwards out of the lower arm just enough to inspect the bushing. And slide the bellows up on the SLS struts to see if the bump stops are OK
Joe, updates are coming along nicely. I'd also be interested in a fabricated backbox which has been done properly with a nice pair of shiny exhaust tips.
Could you please let me know the details and costs involved? Maybe we can have them made up at the same time?
Yes I’ll message you with details later- I got more details and a cost estimate from the fabricator this morning so I think I will book the car in as soon as I get back from Florida.
I’m sure they wouldn’t mind fabricating 2 at the same time- but it would need to be done when my car is there and they can use the one they fabricate for me as a direct template before they mount it in my car.
They are very skilled people I looked at their customer cars when I was there- very impressive work. I have pics of exactly what they are to make up for me.
I'd be very surprised if they are AMG! Despite the claims on here on several discussions you will probably be the first to have AMG struts fitted, or at least that I know about anyway.
I'll probably eat my words later
Last edited by bing; 06-04-2016 at 02:19 AM.
1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
1997 S 600 L (164kmiles sold )
2004 ML270 (64kmiles remap oil burner sold)
2001 CLK55 AMG (79kmiles)
1994 E fünfhundert (170kkm sold )
1997 S 600 L (164kmiles sold )
2004 ML270 (64kmiles remap oil burner sold)
2001 CLK55 AMG (79kmiles)
In reality IF the rear struts are shot and they are 500E items (Original more than likely) I will renew them with the Sachs items. At this moment & time I cannot justify spending circa £1200 just on struts! They can always be added in the future when I have recovered from the recent heavy duty expenditure!
Last edited by vatc5637; 06-04-2016 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Pics added
I believe the E60 rear SLS hydrolegs have firmer valving, and a shorter foam stop buffer to accommodate the reduced ride height. There might be other differences, i.e. the overall length could be shorter, or the internal rebound spring could be a different rate? If they weren't >$2k/pair I'd love to order a set and find out firsthand!
Just back from having the 500E on the lift- I can’t believe it! This 500E DOES have full genuine E60 AMG suspension- check out the pics! I totally missed those markings before. Plus all of it including the rear struts are in tip top order. I removed the circlips on the bellows on the rear struts to check the bump stops etc- all like brand new. I think the car has only done about 20k miles with the AMG suspension. Bottom & top mounts tight- like new
I can’t imagine there are too many w124’s around with full genuine E60 suspension- the value of this car just went up!
I read this thread- it seems the faulty accumulators can cause the knocking too. So since my struts cheeked out 100% OK today I will await the new accumulators since I know they are screwed, install them and see if that makes any difference.
We checked everything again and can find no reason for the ‘knock’ but it’s very soft and it could actually be the hydraulic load with the faulty spheres on the suspension. It feels rock hard- locked up.
Time will tell when the spheres go in but I am VERY happy tonight that the struts are good & real AMG- I never thought that was the case since there was no proof... until now.
Thanks for those pics guys I knew what to look for.
The car has 1 bump pads front & rear. For me it’s just a smidge too low. When the spheres are fixed I’ll wait & see where it sits. Then decide how to level the car perfect and lift it just a minimal amount- like 2 bump pads instead
I indeed replaced my OE hydro-legs with Sachs OEM units. Per the HOW-TO that I wrote up on the job, I could not really tell any difference, and there has been absolutely no difference since replacing them. Remember though, that the damping/springing action in the rear is from the accumulators (spheres), NOT the hydro-legs. Basically the rear hydro-legs are large pressure reservoirs for the SLS juice.
I would have NO problem recommending the Sachs OEM rear hydro-legs for the .036 -- however they are NOT that much cheaper than the factory units (unless the factory ones go up radically in the future).