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Bzliteyear
07-28-2014, 09:22 AM
Hi all,

Here's my official new thread/intro on MY new 92 MB 500E - aka G Man's prior 500E :)

Although I've enjoyed many fantastic cars over the years, the 500E was something that I've been dreaming about since b-school when the car first came out. It was $80k+ and one of the guys recruiting me for a job had just gotten one...and I've been thinking/dreaming about it ever since. Thanks again to all the fellows on this board (and Gary) for the encouragement and patience as I'm not as familiar with dealing with a 22-yr old car, especially since I'm not a DIY guy.

Btw, the car's in AMAZING condition for being 22 years old, and here are a few things that I need to work on:

1) The AC appears to work when it's cool outside, but when starting it while the engine and outside temp is above 88+ degrees, (the compressor under the hood?) is actually HOT to the touch, vs cold. The system was just charged full, so I'm going to get it checked out again this am. Thinking it's not the dreaded "E" since it does work sometimes?
2) The 18" BBS wheels are beautiful, but there's a slight shimmy only between 50 and 65mph....going to take to a top wheels guy.
3) The drivers' door luck doesn't seem to lock - it tries to go down, but not completely, so the door's not locking.
4) The driver's seat appears soft, even vs my old 1995 MB E320 Cab seats...is there a way to firm it up(for reasonable price)?
5) The upgraded steering wheel looks/feels nice, but the diameter's smaller than stock - I can't see the top of the speedometer. Since the wheel position will not tilt and only goes in/out, shall I go back to older wheel(Gary included), or shall I try to get an upgraded wood/leather wheel aftermarket?

Thx again everyone...really appreciate everyone's input.

P.S. In case some are not familiar, here's the specs on the G Man (prior) car:
1992 500E
Pearl Black / Black
139,165 miles
***
Gary purchased in 2005 with @57,689 miles from former E500E board member Michael Chang in Portland Oregon. Gerry actually inspected the car for me while he was living in Oregon.

Original paint except for the roof, which I had re-sprayed in March of this year. The clear coat was getting cloudy. Many major repairs and preventative maintenance done during my ownership. I have a pretty extensive file of all repairs and receipts. Factory steering wheel included along with an original Bergwerks FGS module (new & uninstalled). Here's a partial list of some of the major items.

-BBS RSII Wheels- Fronts are 18x8.5 ET22, Rears are 18x10 ET20
Refinished 3/14, No curb rash
-Kumho Tires- 235/40/18, 275/35/18, Fronts 75%, Rears 95%
-New Grill insert and shell- 3/14
-New IAT sensor-5/14
-Transmission rebuild 12/13
-Rear main seal 12/13
-New driveshaft flex discs 12/13
-Power Steering hose 12/13
-Ignition switch and cylinder 12/13
-New Behr Radiator 4/14
-New front rotors and pads 5/14
-New drivers side ignition coil 4/14
-Upper and Lower Wiring Harness (http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Lower_Wiring_Harness) @70K
-TBA replaced @70K
-EGR replaced @70K
-Blower motor replaced @120K
-Rear Accumulators @100K
-Timevalve Y-Pipe

Photos: http://public.fotki.com/2phasst/1992-500e-for-sale/

KarlC
07-28-2014, 11:17 AM
Nice !

Welcome aboard and please keep the updates coming !

Maui
07-28-2014, 12:13 PM
Welcome. Even with a stock steering wheel you won't be able to see the top of the speedo.

8899
07-28-2014, 01:04 PM
Congrats on the purchase! When you get a chance, take a look at these threads:

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1036&highlight=Dislikes
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3405&highlight=factory%20mods

Bzliteyear
08-02-2014, 12:58 PM
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The AC appears to work 75% of the time, and mostly when it is less than 90 degrees. Since I could not duplicate the problem consistently, I've held off taking back to mechanic.

A new issue, however, has come up. This am, the engine started to surge/chop chop when I'm at Park, Neutral, or Drive...and I need to add guess to prevent the idle from dying. I will take it to mechanic this week, but was hoping to get some feedback from the group here on possible cause.
p.s. attended my first cars and coffee this am - SF just started recently and this is the 3rd meet. Saw Cal Speed and his 220k 500E there as well as a E55 wagon.
Thx in advance.
PL

Roma_500E
08-02-2014, 01:25 PM
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The AC appears to work 75% of the time, and mostly when it is less than 90 degrees. Since I could not duplicate the problem consistently, I've held off taking back to mechanic.

A new issue, however, has come up. This am, the engine started to surge/chop chop when I'm at Park, Neutral, or Drive...and I need to add guess to prevent the idle from dying. I will take it to mechanic this week, but was hoping to get some feedback from the group here on possible cause.
p.s. attended my first cars and coffee this am - SF just started recently and this is the 3rd meet. Saw Cal Speed and his 220k 500E there as well as a E55 wagon.
Thx in advance.
PL

Rough idling could be due to many different issues. The simpliest might be

1. rotor caps/ rotors (this is what two of board members including me had problem with)
2. Vacumm leak (check vacumm all lines and connectors)
3. wires and plugs should be inspected too .

Other folks will add to my list of possible issues.

Maui
08-02-2014, 01:49 PM
To find a vacuum leak hook a small hose to any of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and blow cigar smoke into the hose. The engine should not be running when you do this.

Roma_500E
08-02-2014, 02:42 PM
To find a vacuum leak hook a small hose to any of the vacuum ports on the intake manifold and blow cigar smoke into the hose. The engine should not be running when you do this.:yourock:

Bzliteyear
08-25-2014, 06:24 PM
Rough idling could be due to many different issues. The simpliest might be

1. rotor caps/ rotors (this is what two of board members including me had problem with)
2. Vacumm leak (check vacumm all lines and connectors)
3. wires and plugs should be inspected too .

Other folks will add to my list of possible issues.

Hi all,
Back from vacation and finally dropped off 500E to get the funky idle looked at the for items above.

In addition, I noticed that the fuel gauge jumps around quite a bit from 1/8 to 3/8th (not so much when it's full).
I tried searching forum, but couldn't find anything.
Any suggestions? Thx in advance.

Patrick

DerFuror
08-25-2014, 08:40 PM
This (http://www.500eboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-247.html) thread may help.

Klink
08-25-2014, 10:13 PM
Hi all,
Back from vacation and finally dropped off 500E to get the funky idle looked at the for items above.

In addition, I noticed that the fuel gauge jumps around quite a bit from 1/8 to 3/8th (not so much when it's full).
I tried searching forum, but couldn't find anything.
Any suggestions? Thx in advance.

Patrick

Sometimes it's the gauge, but it's often just varnished up resistor wires in the tank sensor. They are actually easy to disassemble, but very easy to damage after you do so. A quick look at the web showed a number of people taking them apart and cleaning them up, so I suspect that the information is out there.

Bzliteyear
08-27-2014, 10:11 AM
Rough idling could be due to many different issues. The simpliest might be

1. rotor caps/ rotors (this is what two of board members including me had problem with)
2. Vacumm leak (check vacumm all lines and connectors)
3. wires and plugs should be inspected too .

Hi all,
Quick update on this rough idle.
Apparently it's going to be about $1,400 for tune-up, as well as replace caps/rotors...and something else? I don't have the full details yet.
I trust this guy, and he's saying the parts are very expensive.
Will report update soon, but I think this may be part of the $5k that Gerry reminds new 500E guys to set aside to get the car up to desired condition.
PL

gerryvz
08-27-2014, 10:18 AM
Can you get more information about what your shop means by "tune-up"? If it's just replacing caps and rotors, I can't see things being more than $500 total, parts and labor included. The parts are a few hundred dollars of that. Sounds like they may be marking up the prices.

As far as other things that would be needed for a "tune-up" - not sure what they are referencing. These are not "old school" cars that need a tune up. Cap and rotor replacement if needed, perhaps every 25-40K miles, yes. Coils probably every 100-125K. But none of these parts are going to add up to a $1,500 bill...unless they are using those special gold- and silver-plated caps/rotors made by Bosch, but those are extremely difficult to obtain in the US.

So I think you need to pin the shop down as to exactly WHAT they believe the car needs in terms of the components of said "tune-up."

Hopefully it involves (or involved already) pulling the codes and seeing what came up. Those would be helpful directional indicators of potential repairs/maintenance/service needed. Can you get an idea of them about what diagnostic codes they pulled from the car's systems, and what they think those codes indicate?

Cheers,
Gerry

mistermiata
08-27-2014, 11:06 AM
Maybe as part of the "tune-up" they are putting in those special E60 spark plugs that Clark is selling....they could add $$$ to the bill

gerryvz
08-27-2014, 11:17 AM
Hopefully not post-merger plugs though.

Bzliteyear
08-27-2014, 12:49 PM
I don't have written, but verbally he said it's close to $1k just for OE parts on cap/rotors/wires/sparks plugs/fuel filter/air filter etc...and he's only charging $300 for labor.
Therefore, I don't think it's the fancy plugs - just orig OEM.
Also, he's tightening exhaust and heat shield as it was causing some thumping.
Lastly, he mentioned looking at oil pan and that longer term, should replace some other stuff - but more expensive.
Looking forward to getting it back tmrw to test drive.
PL

clarkz71
08-27-2014, 02:39 PM
I could get that dude Bremi caps & rotors, plugs, Beru wire set for $500

Air filter and fuel filter another $45, so around $550 and maybe $12 shipping

Of course the shop wouldn't like that.

Bzliteyear
08-27-2014, 03:51 PM
While I think parts could be cheaper to buy elsewhere, often times these indy mechanics buy from 3rd party same-day deliveries, so they probably pay a premium vs. us buying online.
In addition, this guy's only charging me $300 for labor. If there were MB dealer, I think they might charge $600-750(SF area $165+/hr labor).
Therefore, while I may "save" a few $ on parts elsewhere, my gut feel is that I wouldn't really save much money unless I were doing this myself.

P.S. I haven't searched yet, but how often for timing chain guide need to be done...and how much? Is it true at that point, it's cheaper to get another used engine?
PL

gerryvz
08-27-2014, 04:10 PM
While I think parts could be cheaper to buy elsewhere, often times these indy mechanics buy from 3rd party same-day deliveries, so they probably pay a premium vs. us buying online.
In addition, this guy's only charging me $300 for labor. If there were MB dealer, I think they might charge $600-750(SF area $165+/hr labor).
Therefore, while I may "save" a few $ on parts elsewhere, my gut feel is that I wouldn't really save much money unless I were doing this myself.

P.S. I haven't searched yet, but how often for timing chain guide need to be done...and how much? Is it true at that point, it's cheaper to get another used engine?
PLWhich guides are you talking about? the upper "cam sprocket" guides, or the upper guides at the block/head area, or the lower guides down in the front of the block?

The cam sprocket guides are quite simple to replace, and are inexpensive to buy. They only require the valve covers to come off to replace, and should be done when the timing chain is replaced at 125-150K miles as a good preventative measure.

The upper guides are more involved, and require a special tool to remove. These can and should be done from time to time, perhaps when the timing chain is replaced, say around 150-200K miles. I don't know that many folks have ever had to do this, that I know of.


The lower guides from what I know, really don't require replacement as they are regularly bathed in oil. Perhaps every 250-300K miles? Other than folks who have removed and rebuilt a motor, don't know that I've ever known anyone who has done this in 10 years. Maybe 1 or two folks.

The cam sprocket guides would be relatively inexpensive to replace. Upper guides -- moderate cost and fairly involved. Lower guides -- expensive and very involved.

I'll leave the experts to talk about the book time required for these jobs. I don't think it's an immediate concern unless one's engine has high mileage (more than 200K).

Also -- I would NEVER consider buying a "used" engine if I was looking at this type of job, and if my engine was running fine. What's the point? You'd just be buying someone else's problems with an engine of unknown provenance/maintenance. I would only replace the guides if my cylinder heads were coming off the engine (which is really not necessary/common on an M119) and/or if the engine was coming out of the car for heavy maintenance.

gsxr
08-30-2014, 10:38 AM
I don't have written, but verbally he said it's close to $1k just for OE parts on cap/rotors/wires/sparks plugs/fuel filter/air filter etc...and he's only charging $300 for labor.
That sounds high... and I don't know if it's really worth shelling out for OE "Genuine" parts, and not all that stuff necessarily requires replacement. Did they even check to see how old the existing parts are? Seriously, most of that work could be done in an afternoon as DIY for probably $500 total in parts. Likely 2-3 hours work for a pro, so I'm guessing their shop rate is near $100 per hour, yikes. [/QUOTE]




While I think parts could be cheaper to buy elsewhere, often times these indy mechanics buy from 3rd party same-day deliveries, so they probably pay a premium vs. us buying online.
In addition, this guy's only charging me $300 for labor. If there were MB dealer, I think they might charge $600-750(SF area $165+/hr labor). Therefore, while I may "save" a few $ on parts elsewhere, my gut feel is that I wouldn't really save much money unless I were doing this myself.
Correct... primary savings is if you are a DIY'er. It would be worse at the dealership.




P.S. I haven't searched yet, but how often for timing chain guide need to be done...and how much?
This is an entirely separate can of worms. First thing is at oil change time, drop the lower pan and inspect for chain rail debris. If present... definitely inspect/replace the upper rails. And while the pan is off, replace the fossilized oil sump pickup, and replace the level sender O-rings (common issues, easy to fix while the pan is off). If you need to do upper rails, it's a fairly expensive job at a shop, due to labor. I'd expect them to quote somewhere around 6-10 hours and $200-$400 in parts. There are a handful of "while you're in there" items which are a good idea, but search other threads, and either add on to an existing chain rail thread, or start a new one. The chain isn't really a wear item (most of the time) but it's not a bad idea to replace while everything is apart. Adds another 1+ hours labor and ~$200 for the chain, another ~$200 for a new tensioner (optional) but no additional labor. Adds up fast.




Is it true at that point, it's cheaper to get another used engine?
NO!!! Absolutely not. If you get another used engine, it is almost 100% guaranteed you would have to do ALL the same work to the spare motor prior to installing. Now if your intent is to buy a spare motor, put it on an engine stand, and do all this work as DIY in your spare time... then yes, that is not a bad idea. Except it will still cost you $1k-$2k for the spare motor. Kinda depends what your end goal is, and if you have any need or interest for a spare engine.

:seesaw: