I had flushed that cooler today, nasty procedure . I machined 2 fittings to connect hoses to the banjo fittings and used 10 bar shop air. I used up 4 liters of ethanol and 1 can of trans cleaner...lots of chips coming out and after some 50 flushs nothing any more...
I should be happy but I feel something might be wrong: the cooler has so much resistance for the air pressure go get through that I fear it might be clogged.
Can it be that the metal chips clog up a cooler?
Crazy, if this is the case the only option is to get a new cooler. Before I order something I need to know more from people how know.
Is there a method to measure flow and resistance?
Last edited by werminghausen; 08-26-2017 at 09:22 AM.
Martin, do you have any other MB radiator which you could compare to? I have no idea what the expected airflow should be through a clean / empty cooler.
The good news is, you confirmed the cooler was contaminated and you avoided disaster by not re-using it. Don't forget to flush the pipes and hoses between the trans and radiator. With a new radiator at ~$220 (last I checked) this might be a good time to just replace it, especially if the radiator is more than 10-15 years old.
yes you are right. I'll order a new radiator and the only safe way out here. That radiator might be the original one, don't know for sure but could be.
Frustrating a bit but maybe a good investment. That front steel line (think from the left side transmission Line running underneath the radiator is very corroded. Need to find the part number and order a new line.
I am still puzzled how my transmission was damaged to a point that it was eating up the interiors without a sign that something fatal is happening.. it is like cancer...I didn't know that something that bad was happening as the car was diving normal most of the time. This is self destruction.
I see that not many people have experiences with the inner of that transmission and I might be too ambitious but I have still hope that I'll get support and find the reason of the self destruction.
If there are theories I am very happy to hear.
Learning for future: For instance my W126 300SDL (360K miles) has a MB rebuilt transmission 722.321 in it and the last year transmission stared acting up... hard shift at 20mph (I think it can be the 1/2 shift occurring at about 20mph under little load). Some people say there is a cure by adding a part in then valve body (I think it is part of the Superior K722A-D kit) but I am alarmed now that more is lurking. This transmission also makes grinding sound during deceleration before car stops...
I am hoping to gain some insights and fix my good old transmissions.
Last edited by werminghausen; 08-26-2017 at 09:14 PM.
Some pictures from the flush.....
I opened now my 'Precision Banner Kit' and looked at the friction disks.
Disks are all 'wobbly'. This means the plates are not flat as I'd expected. If I put the 5 disks each together and look from the side there are big gaps. Some of the disks are more flat than others.
Does anyone know what this is? Is this normal or per design?
With the 'precision' frictions in hand I can see the following marks
Brake B3 (36teeth, biggest friction, 2.1mm thick ): number 189222 , there is no sign what company this is and I could not find out on the internet
Clutch K1- front (24teeth middle size, 2.2mm thick): number 189620 , there is no sign what company this is and I could not find out on the internet.
Clutch K2- rear. Allomatic USA, number 512932 20/03/16 (date) (24teeth, small 24teeth, 2.2mm thick
The Allomatic frictions look better, more precise that the B3 and K1 frictions with no name, they scare me. Could be China frictions.
I think I am not going to use the 'Precision' frictions
I'd probably buy Borg Warner frictions for piece of mind.
Waved form: I see that the waved form is per design. The disks one upon the other can the rotated so the valleys fit...there is a pattern.
What do people think?