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Thread: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

  1. #61
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    There's no way spark plugs would cause a shutdown at ~60°C consistently.

    Have you disconnected the O2 sensor yet, as a test?
    Well Dave ive lost my way on this problem now. All logic has been exhausted

    I am studying for some very heavy exam right now. Wish i had the time to jack up the car and quickly disconnect that bloody o2 sensor.

    Reason that has not been a priority is because the car was not switching off with this same o2 sensor on the car. But now that i am lost I will be disconnecting it, probably next weekend now due to work and study..

    I sprayed starter fluid over all the hoses I could see. No difference.

    This is some electronic problem that reacts the same way everytime.

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  2. #62
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    well put another new O2 sensor, not spliced wires. Same issue. I will be looking to replace the fuse holder as it is corroded in several unreachable areas. Will also replace the pins on the 38 pin diagnostic port as there is corrosion there too.

    Would a faulty fuel pump relay do this? Ignition switch?

  3. #63
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    It has got to be electrical because the engine start immediately every time it stalls, but then it just stalls again after a few seconds.

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Have you been able to get a fuel pressure gauge connected to the rail, to watch fuel pressure when it stalls? I'm REALLY curious about that.


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  6. #65
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    I need to pass by and get the adapter for the shroeder valve.. I hope to do so this week. I was very busy with studies the past 3 weeks. Now I hope to make faster progress

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    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Hey Dave my car is a non ASR. Does it have a component known as Electronic Accelerator Pedal Actuator (M16/1)?

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by samm View Post
    Hey Dave my car is a non ASR. Does it have a component known as Electronic Accelerator Pedal Actuator (M16/1)?
    Ummmm.... sort of. Explanation below:

    ASR cars have an ETA known as M16/1, EA/CC/ISC (Electronic Accelerator / Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control); controlled by E-GAS module N4/1.
    http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...TM/2430400.pdf

    Non-ASR cars have an ETA known as M16/2, CC/ISC (Cruise Control / Idle Speed Control); controlled by T/LLR module N4/3.
    http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/M...TM/2430500.pdf

    Both ETA's appear the same externally, but have different internal functions mechanically and electrically. Both ETA's have an internal "Safety contact switch (fuel pump control)", M16/1s1 or M16/2s1 respectively. I'm not sure exactly how this works, but I find the switch name interesting. Check out the link above for the non-ASR version to see the schematic of the ETA and how it connects to the T/LLR module (N4/3).



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  10. #68
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    well I tell you what, after looking at the electrical diagram on the link you sent I see that there may be a possibility that the corroded pins at the 38 pin diagnostic terminal AND the corroded (partially) fuse box could be causing some electrical disturbance.

    Fuel Pump control? That could be something. OF course cutting out at just over 60 degrees seems like it is unrelated...

  11. #69
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    so I see the A/C is connected to pin 1 and poin 7. As the attached image shows (38 pin connector)

    I have the ground wire cut on the AC compressor (accidentally cut it and its hard to reach at the moment). This could be doing something in relation to idle and the AUX fans running continuously??
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly



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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Hey
    Dave here is the fuel pressure test. Please watch it especially at the end where the fuel pressure goes up slightly as it starts to shut down.... than ks!

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    So I just converted the psi to bar so:

    Engine running is 49 psi so 3.38 BAR

    engine running with vacuum disconnected at Fuel Pressure Regulator is 59 psi so 4.07 BAR.

    from everything I've read these values are healthy.

    As the engine reaches about 65 degrees Celsius and starts to shutdown the fuel pressure jumps briefly to 58 psi(4 BAR) then when it's shut down it drops and remains at 52 psi.

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    The slight pressure rise that you see is probably simply occurring as the injectors are being switched off. Your first impressions are correct. The test shows that it’s not a fuel pressure issue.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  17. #74
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    The slight pressure rise that you see is probably simply occurring as the injectors are being switched off. Your first impressions are correct. The test shows that it’s not a fuel pressure issue.
    Thanks Klink

    Do you think the safety fuel shutoff inside the nonAsr ETA is shutting off fuel?

    I'm stumped now. I know that I could not properly burp the cooling system because of my blower not working. But in my experience that would lead to overheating not shutdown...


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  18. #75
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Could a corroded fuse box be doing this?

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    The slight pressure rise that you see is probably simply occurring as the injectors are being switched off. Your first impressions are correct. The test shows that it’s not a fuel pressure issue.
    Klink is correct. Your test proves the engine is not shutting off due to lack of fuel supply. The pressure rise is due to engine vacuum dropping as the RPM's drop to zero, assuming the FPR vacuum hose was connected at the time.


    Quote Originally Posted by samm View Post
    Do you think the safety fuel shutoff inside the nonAsr ETA is shutting off fuel?
    No. If it was shutting off fuel, the fuel pressure would have dropped near zero.


    Quote Originally Posted by samm View Post
    I'm stumped now.
    Me too. I'm out of ideas without having a digital scanner to view live data. Without live data, all you can do is swap parts.


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  21. #77
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Klink is correct. Your test proves the engine is not shutting off due to lack of fuel supply. The pressure rise is due to engine vacuum dropping as the RPM's drop to zero, assuming the FPR vacuum hose was connected at the time.



    No. If it was shutting off fuel, the fuel pressure would have dropped near zero.



    Me too. I'm out of ideas without having a digital scanner to view live data. Without live data, all you can do is swap parts.

    Thanks Dave,

    At least I can rule out the safety fuel shutoff in the TLLR Module.

    I am going to have to tow the car from the busy road where it has been for a couple months to a safer quieter place to work on it.

    I did not change the distributor caps but I did change the insulators and rotors. I heavily believe that this is not the issue because the engine shuts down like clockwork.

    I installed a new Gasket between the MAF and ETA. nothing changed. Physically inspected all vacuum lines. Replaced most of them a while back.

    I wonder if the CRANKshaft sensor could be slightly faulty? The only thing that leads me to think it's ok is that the car does restart for a few seconds after shutoff. It doesn't just crank and not fire.

    Could the The camshaft position sensor do this?

    Partially corroded fuse box?

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  22. #78
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    I took a look at the spark plugs that were in the car when it used to stay running and not shutdown- the pic shows FR8 something.
    I know everywhere on the forums we are told to put F8 non resistor plugs due to the wire having resistors.

    I'm just thinking that the car was running with fr8 and then the stalling issue started after putting in the f
    F8dc4.
    May be worth the 20 or so dollars to experiment and install the resistor ones again? What if the wires installed don't have the correct resistance? Maybe I can check them...

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    I know your MAF appears good. Just as mine did.

    Engine ran well at idle from cold until temp hit 80 degrees, and abruptly shut off. No drama, just off. No restart until a few hours later. And so on. For months while I searched this forum and everywhere else including German and other forums.

    I replaced everything, checked, cleaned, tested everything including coils, grounds, modules, harnesses, fuel relay, crank sensor...yada yada. Pulled codes til I was blue.

    P****d I flat bedded it to the dealer. After 2 weeks as they discovered everything I already did, they replaced the MAF. Refurbed Bosch unit would have cost me around $345 after core charge. They charged $900 for all the work and the same refurbed Bosch MAF. Almost 2 years ago. Never had the problem since.

    I never thought the MAF was an issue cause it started and ran for several minutes. Had to be something else.
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Sam, can't remember if you've tried this, but disconnect the MAF and see if the problem remains. The engine will run in a "fixed operating mode" with the MAF disconnected. This should prove if the MAF is faulty or not.

    You could swap out the plugs if you want, but I'll be a monkey's uncle (or, Kent's nephew) if the plugs are causing an abrubt shutoff precisely at 60C every time.


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  28. #81
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Hahaha! Dave you made me laugh!

    Thank you for your post, I actually hope you come up with any other suggestions...sadly I've tried 2 different MAF and I've tried just disconnecting it and the engi e shuts off exactly on time just past 60 degrees

    I am really really regretting buying this car now. M119 engine has some expensive parts. Even when many are used the costs still add up.

    I am very close to giving up as I have had the car for several months and am unable to drive it.

    It feels like a great car with only 45k miles. Transmission goes into Reverse instantly and all that. Feels new.

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  29. #82
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Sam, can't remember if you've tried this, but disconnect the MAF and see if the problem remains. The engine will run in a "fixed operating mode" with the MAF disconnected. This should prove if the MAF is faulty or not.

    You could swap out the plugs if you want, but I'll be a monkey's uncle (or, Kent's nephew) if the plugs are causing an abrubt shutoff precisely at 60C every time.

    Who is Kent anyway?

    I am going to replace the Fuse box and start checking all Ground points for corrosion. Water crept into the car while it was stored due to blocked drainage. So I will go through it and at least get all that stuff sorted.

    At least of I sell it it will have less problems than When I bought it :-/

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  30. #83
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    SO I had a look at my ignition coils. One of the has a big D on it. Thats not one of the proper manufacturers. Is it Duralast? Autozone own brand??

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    I think you can safely rule out a number of things based on your testing, and the fact the engine runs smoothly (no misfires). Caps / rotors / insulators / plugs are all extremely unlikely. Ditto for the ignition coil (not sure what the "D" logo is). Camshaft position sensor also shouldn't cause a shutdown.

    Since fuel supply is ok, clearly the issue is electrical. I'm just not sure what exactly, without live data from a digital scanner. If you've already swapped LH modules, have you swapped the EZL also? The crank sensor is a decent possibility, if you have one to try out. Also a good idea to check electrical connections / grounds but it seems unlikely those would only cause an issue at exactly 60C.

    Kent is the owner of MBSource up in Bellingham, WA. He used to specialize in older (70's, 80's) cars but has started to migrate into newer models. GerryVZ has family in Seattle and I've always suspected they are related...


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  33. #85
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    oh Kent Bergsma from youtube! Haha!

    Ok I have tried different EZL and all modules. Exact same prob.

    I found the D being Duralast, Autozone brand. Looks new but I will change it if I can get the car to work.

    My ETA is a 2004 build but as I noted from many of your posts, the date alone is just not enough to conclude that the ETA is working properly. I keep thinking that the ETA is shutting down the car. But then I think to myself, this only happened after changing Spark plugs and the other stuff I did that day (I have reversed everything I did except for the plugs.

    Crank sensor is a hundred dollar gamble so I will try and eliminate any ground wire issues forst. I replaced the X11 38 pin connetor yesterday due to corossion (of course this was not the problem).

    Will change fuse box and see about the CKP...

    Thank you Dave

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  35. #86
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Ok so I ordered the CKP sensor (107) and the same wrong resistor fr8dc+ plugs that were in the car before. Only cost 15 so I can take them out and throw if they don't solve it.

    I have Bosch ignition wires on the car that were installed by previous owner not too many miles ago. I need to check the resistance across those wires.

  36. #87
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Still waiting on my other sparks and cranks sensor.

    Changed the fuse box today as well as the fuel pump relay. No difference.

    Fuse box is quite a headache to replace!!

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  38. #88
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    So while the car was running I disconnected the Left bank Ignition coil and the idle dropped to a respectable level but of course sounded like a flat four engine. But it still stalled just over 60 degrees.

    Not exactly sure what I was hoping to achieve with that test

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Got a pic of those coils? Never saw a duralast coil for a 119. Also curious if there are signs of voltage leaking out of them at all.

    You can jumper the fuel pump relay under the rear seat if you want to be SURE the pumps aren't stopping first....

    30 and 87 are the pins.


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  41. #90
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Hi Jono

    Here is a shot if the Duralast coils.
    They irritate me as I just don't know that they work properly for sure being Duralast..

    Bosch wouldn't make it for them would they?

    20180319_165339.jpg 20180319_165350.jpg

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by samm View Post
    Here is a shot if the Duralast coils. They irritate me as I just don't know that they work properly for sure being Duralast..

    Bosch wouldn't make it for them would they?
    They could, but if so, they would look identical to Bosch. The photos above look substantially different than the Bosch (pics attached).

    I really doubt the coils are the cause of your issue, however, do you have a used set of coils you could pop in there for testing?

    Attached Images Attached Images

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  44. #92
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Does anyone know if a Crankshaft sensor has a Build year on it?

    This is my one it says 01 13. Is this a 2013 sensor?

    20180319_170426.jpg

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    They could, but if so, they would look identical to Bosch. The photos above look substantially different than the Bosch (pics attached).

    I really doubt the coils are the cause of your issue, however, do you have a used set of coils you could pop in there for testing?

    Ok that's very different.
    I agree I don't think could would cause such an issue. I will be changing them once I get the car running properly. Fingers crossed.

    Still waiting for my crank sensor as I'm thinking maybe the sensor has an intermittent fault?

    I've really run out of ideas.

    I did the experiment that Jono sugggested. Car shut down at the same time and the fuel pumps were still running (they were jumpered)..

    So this pretty much conclusively proves that it is not the fuel safety shutoff or any fuel issue. Of course my fuel pressure test also was very indicative of it not being a fuel supply issue.

    Bloody FCP Euro have really let me down with their slow delivery. AutohausAZ always ship same or next day via regular UPS and it arrives in 2 days to LA. I haven't been able to change sparks or the crank sensor.

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    FCP's free economy shipping is what I call "Donkey Post". Plan on 7-10 days, probably business days. Pretty likely it was sent via FedEx Smart Post, or UPS Mail Innovations, or something similar. Not the best option when you're in a hurry...


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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    FCP's free economy shipping is what I call "Donkey Post". Plan on 7-10 days, probably business days. Pretty likely it was sent via FedEx Smart Post, or UPS Mail Innovations, or something similar. Not the best option when you're in a hurry...

    Hahaha

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by samm View Post
    Thanks Dave,

    At least I can rule out the safety fuel shutoff in the TLLR Module.

    I am going to have to tow the car from the busy road where it has been for a couple months to a safer quieter place to work on it.

    I did not change the distributor caps but I did change the insulators and rotors. I heavily believe that this is not the issue because the engine shuts down like clockwork.

    I installed a new Gasket between the MAF and ETA. nothing changed. Physically inspected all vacuum lines. Replaced most of them a while back.

    I wonder if the CRANKshaft sensor could be slightly faulty? The only thing that leads me to think it's ok is that the car does restart for a few seconds after shutoff. It doesn't just crank and not fire.

    Could the The camshaft position sensor do this?

    Partially corroded fuse box?

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    have you measured the cam and crank sensor resistance value?when cold...AND when it shuts down.?does the car start up straight away after it stalls?im sorry if i havent seen it..if you have mentinoned this in an earlier post..

    Also like mentioned before...without live data..there is only so much you can do.Your issue is clearly electrical and ignition related...as seen on the fuel pressure test.what you could do is to connect a test probe on one of the spark plugs..to see if the spark dissapears when car is shutting down.
    when it comes to crank sensor resistance value..it should be around 900ohms...or even a tad higher...if seeing approx 1300ohms....it is defective as a rule of thumb.that is often the territory of when a crank sensor fails...

    Also..this reminds me abit of the fault i had on my car..in some way..or at least..you can have a more serious power issue to the LH unit.so all depending on "does it start afterwards".....you should maybe consider tracing a power issue to the engine ecu.It would be interesting ..and at this point most necessary seeing some fault codes..
    Last edited by lowman; 03-23-2018 at 05:13 PM.
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  52. #97
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    https://youtu.be/k8mpz7l2xIE

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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Guys the car stayed running after I put in the RESISTOR sparks!!!!

    I now firmly believe that the resistance of the Duralast ignition coils is too low or something because the ignition cables, and everything else is Bosch.

    The previous owner must have been in a desperate position and ended up buying from Autozone to get Duralast coils!

    Now I am ordering the correct Bosch coils. But could someone please tell me how the coils are supposed to be measured for their resistance?

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  56. #99
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Lowman it did start immediately afterwards but used to shut down as soon as it reached around 65 degrees
    But ease see my post above. The car is running although there IS A MISFIRE and I suspect it's the coils

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  58. #100
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    With this revelation, I definitely think you could be on the right path with replacing those coils with the correct parts. It could be that the coils have incorrect resistance and/or are missing some other kind of electronic “tuning“ device such as a suppression diode. It would certainly be unusual but it’s not inconceivable that something about the ignition coil and/or the reflected voltage in the primary circuits are causing your EZL/ignition control unit to overheat and shut off. On that subject, how is your ignition control unit mounted? Is it firmly bolted onto the left side inner fender as it should be. Is there a film of heat transfer paste between it and the inner fender?
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  60. #101
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    With this revelation, I definitely think you could be on the right path with replacing those coils with the correct parts. It could be that the coils have incorrect resistance and/or are missing some other kind of electronic “tuning“ device such as a suppression diode. It would certainly be unusual but it’s not inconceivable that something about the ignition coil and/or the reflected voltage in the primary circuits are causing your EZL/ignition control unit to overheat and shut off. On that subject, how is your ignition control unit mounted? Is it firmly bolted onto the left side inner fender as it should be. Is there a film of heat transfer paste between it and the inner fender?
    Hi Klink,
    Thank you for your important input.

    Yes the ezl is mounted properly with the white paste evenly distributed underneath. I may apply new paste seeing as it's from 95.

    Well Duralast coils are not Bosch and I'm certainly not going to leave them in.

    Clearly my crankshaft sensor is not faulty so lucky for me I can return the new one I bought.

    Will order the coils from AutohausAZ as they get delivered in 48hrs to Cali from Arozona for free.

    There is still a misfire but the car stays running!!

    Thank God!



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  62. #102
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    wow..this was a nice set og post"s to wake up too.
    Awesome to see that it was ignition related,and that it stays running.awesome
    hopefully for you ..you wont be paranoid forever..and ALWAYS waiting for the car to stall on you
    1992 w124 500e "Blackbeauty"
    1989 w201 190e 2.5-16 Evo spec "Evoltwin"
    2003 Ford Focus Rs (Sold )

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  64. #103
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by lowman View Post
    wow..this was a nice set og post"s to wake up too.
    Awesome to see that it was ignition related,and that it stays running.awesome
    hopefully for you ..you wont be paranoid forever..and ALWAYS waiting for the car to stall on you
    Yes no doubt!

    I am waiting for the new Bosch coils to come. I honestly feel that it will be running well after I replace them. I mean almost everything has been replaced

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    Last edited by Klink; 03-29-2018 at 11:27 PM.

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  66. #104
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    All week I had been visiting dealerships to see about getting a new car to be my daily driver.

    I'm hoping that now I can finally get this e420 running reliably so that I can make it my daily car.

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  68. #105
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    It was the Coils!!

    I put the new Bosch coils and I put in the non resistor spark plugs and now the car is not misfiring. I drove it down the road and then I stopped at a stop sign- I thought it stalled! But it was running! Smooth as butter!!!

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  70. #106
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    So anyone reading this year's from now.

    If u have Autozone Duralast ignition coils remove them and throw them into the nearest garbage!

    They were new on my car by the previous owner. So I thought great I've got new coils there. Bloody made me waste 3 months and hundreds of dollars on other parts!!!

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  72. #107
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Now I will continue in my journey to make this my daily driver.

    Guide rails
    Ac compressor and sensors
    Blower motor and resistor
    Alternator regulator
    All steering arms lemforder

    Loads to come

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  74. #108
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    I want people.to.benefit from my unique experience.

    Nobody online had shared the experience I had.
    I was very concerned but at the same time I realised that nobody had this issue because there must be some meddling or water interference that occurred.

    So it turned put that the Duralast ignition coils had LOWERED the resistance in the ignition spark system and this must have been causing some overheating in the EZL ignition module. So it would shut down at approx 65 degrees Celsius EVERY single time for 3 months.

    Big lesson learned.

    I hope this saves you time and money in future.

    Thanks to all who tried to help. Really appreciate it

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  76. #109
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Duralst next to the new Bosch coil. Duralst was noticeably shorter in length20180329_173816.jpg

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  78. #110
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    WOW. That is crazy... I never would have expected faulty coils to cause a shutdown at a specific engine temperature, every time. Totally bizarre. Very happy to hear you finally solved the problem!!

    What's up with the blower motor, AC, etc? With such low miles the VR should be ok, ditto for the steering linkages.


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  80. #111
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    WOW. That is crazy... I never would have expected faulty coils to cause a shutdown at a specific engine temperature, every time. Totally bizarre. Very happy to hear you finally solved the problem!!

    What's up with the blower motor, AC, etc? With such low miles the VR should be ok, ditto for the steering linkages.
    Hey Dave

    Yes the car was parked for 5 years and leaves etc blocked the drainage so there was quite a bit of water entering in electric areas. I've cleaned all that up now.

    I managed to fix the heating system yesterday.
    I installed a new Resistor under the blower motor. Then found the blower was almost completely seized, so I thoroughly sprayed electric contact cleaner and then wd40 to get it spinning well. Now the blower works and I finally have heat!

    I am going to replace the Air con compressor, drier, condenser, pressure switches and regas it.

    Not bothered to start running into problems with the AC with my family riding in the car. I personally never use AC unless I'm wearing a suit and need to not sweat etc

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  82. #112
    Senior Member samm's Avatar
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    Re: Runs for mins when cold then starts and then stalls repeatedly

    Dave,

    With regards to the steering, I like to have brand new parts to help me enjoy the tight steering, as close to new as possible. I certainly dont desire to drive any w124 that is not driving like new. But the parts are not damaged or anything. In fact I think its prob just the steering damper that needs to be changed. However, seeing as Im getting an alignment I may as well put all new Lemforder parts. FCP Euro has the best price on the set.

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