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Thread: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

  1. #1
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    Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to be addressed at the same time?I will also be replacing the lower wiring harness

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    E500E Guru nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    Hey you can see the level sender sticking out with a single pole electrical connection, and the oil pressure sender just north of it. a trail of oil if leaking will be directly below the location of each. It is the O ring that typically needs replacing on the level sender, many just replace the whole unit IF you are dropping the pan. And IF you drop the pan, it make sense to do the sump screen and suction as a while you are there job. If the pressure drops below 1 bar, and is OE, best to replace that too and the metal washer.


    A general review while you have carnal knowledge under there is good. Cleaning and replacing things, check Idler Arm and all other suspension issues. Look for PS hose leaks etc and clean as you go...replacing what you have. By now all the corrugated heat shield is coming off the wiring along the cross member, have a go at replacing that as well.
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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  4. #3
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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    And IF you drop the pan, it make sense to do the sump screen and suction as a while you are there job. If the pressure drops below 1 bar, and is OE, best to replace that too and the metal washer.
    .
    I know about the screen and rubber but what is the metal washer and what to change if pressure bellow 1 bar?
    thanks
    Erick

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    postwhore posterchild Klink's Avatar
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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    There is nothing to change simply “if the pressure is below one bar“ I don’t think Louie will mind if I say to disregard that part of the his comment.
    That being said, It IS a great idea to change the rubber suction boot while you are in there simply because they get rock hard and will not often adapt nicely to a new pan, or a pan with a new gasket. Obviously, you will also want to remove and clean the strainer screen. When you attempt to do this, that’s when you will likely find that the suction boot is rock hard and will simply break apart when you try to remove it. Make sure you have a new one handy when you do this job.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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  7. #5
    postwhore posterchild Klink's Avatar
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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    If one simply replaces the O-ring on the oil level sensor pin, he will usually find that it still leaks. These usually leak between the pin and the plastic housing even more than they leak via the O ring that seals the pin housing to the engine block. Unless you don’t mind re-doing this job, you should probably simply replace the sensor assembly “while you’re in there“. Yes, I know, this “while you’re in there” stuff gets tiresome, but that’s just how it is...
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    E500E Guru nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    Quote Originally Posted by Klink View Post
    There is nothing to change simply “if the pressure is below one bar“ I don’t think Louie will mind if I say to disregard that part of the his comment.
    No, I don't mind. Lets rephrase and say that if it is the original OIL PRESSURE sending unit, consider replacing it, and if you do, don't forget to order a new washer that goes with it. YMMV
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: Changing alternator and starter any problematic oil leaks to Address?

    all done the only small problem I came across was to remove the oil level sensor to replace the o-ring , I had to rotate the crank for it to come out
    thanks for all your help

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