Part of any front end suspension refurbishment should include replacing the Idler Arm Bushing which is part of the overall steering linkage. It is supposed to cure all sorts of front end feel issues on your car and yours is probably 24 years old like mine. So per the 500eboard guidance I tackled this job.
Idler Arm Bushing Kit: 129 460 00 19 (nut, bolts, washers, bushings)
Special tools needed:
24mm deep socket, 6 sided hex & Wrench (larger than typical found in most home garages)
Torque Wrench capable of 150Nm
WIS Document #: 46-6317
Jack up the front of your car properly or put it on your handy lift (I have a MaxJax mid-rise two post lift in my garage, best tool in it).
Drop the lower engine tray, 8mm socket required
Location of Idler Arm Bushing: passenger side of car, accessible from underneath, after removing lower engine cover (engine out photos below courtesy of GXSR).
You should also consult Lowman's awesome general overview of the World's Most Expensive Bushing Kit video (330 Euro he said! What? Half that in USA via mboemparts). Lowmania forever!!!
First thing is to remove the Idler Arm Heat Shield. I removed the pair of heat shields by removing the two 10mm bolts. Note the loose strap piece comes off as well.
Now you are faced with removing the monster 24mm nut. I applied some Kroil in the morning and then hit it with my Ingersol Rand Air Impact gun an hour or so later and got no where. Nut wouldn't move. Then I proceeded to strip the nut with my breaker bar because I did not have a proper impact wrench 6 sided 24mm deep socket. I just had my regular Craftsman multi-point 24mm socket. So let this be a warning to you. Perhaps, Kroil or PB blaster overnight, followed by heat via blow torch, followed by proper 24mm 6 sided deep impact gun socket would have done the trick. Lowman, of course, must have proper tools, and isn't a Shade Tree Mechanic Hack like I am.
So now we brute force it by cutting off the Idler Arm nut via a Dremel (multiple cutting wheels and 1/2 hr - thx nocfn for the tip) or if you have an 4 1/2" Angle Grinder and cutting wheel this will take a few minutes. However, to fit a larger angle grinder with cutting wheel you need to remove the C shaped cross member that is held on by four 6mm Allen Bolts (13mm wrench to hold nut on back side).
(Shade Tree Mechanic Pro Tip: Go to Harbor Freight and buy the cheapest angle grinder they sell. Its like $15 and then buy the grinder disc multi-pak which includes some cut-off wheels for around $5. This will leave you $20 poorer and it works just fine for occasional homeowner use. I've used mine like 5 times in 6 years. You will be amazed the jams this China special grinder will get you out of)
Now sparks will fly, wear goggles, mask, etc and let the tool do cutting work. Be careful you don't want to be grinding anywhere else like the transmission fluid line nearby but with the back side guard on the wheel I had no issues. And then Viola! Nut is gone!
Now you can tap out the bolt a bit , and use a large pair of pliers to remove the lower bushing.