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Thread: Rear main seal repair size

  1. #1
    Senior Member darek_u's Avatar
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    Rear main seal repair size

    My crank has a slight groove and it keeps leaking oil slightly. I went through 2 seals already and both were leaking, no matter how they were seated on the crank. I thought - no big deal (except of work needed to drop the tranny...) as MB offers repair size seal with 1.75mm lip offset p/n A 001 997 8747 but, to my surprise, it is NLA... They offer only regular RMS A 120 997 0246. At least this is the case in EU. I did a little research and found that repair size seal is available as aftermarket part:
    CORTECO 01020044B
    Elring 247.189
    Victor Reinz 81-22887-00
    After even more research I found out that Corteco is NLA, VR is difficult to find, Elring is pretty much available off the shelf. Here are my questions:
    Is Elring a good choice for such a critical part as RMS? I *think* it is based on a list of trusted part makers available on this board.
    Has anybody ever used any of these replacement seals (not OE)? I tried to confirm that they are indeed "repair size" but cannot find this information anywhere. Anybody has any experience here?
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    I have used Elring seals and gaskets for many applications and would not hesitate in the least to recommend them. Particularly over Corteco and VR.

    Elring is also an OE supplier to MB for many seals and gaskets.

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    Senior Member darek_u's Avatar
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Thank you Gerry. Elring is the right choice then. It looks like the 247.189 is indeed repair size as I found that 829.226 is replacement for A1209970246 (std size)
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    I'll second what Gerry said. I just used Elring valve cover gaskets on my R107 560SL. Excellent quality gaskets.

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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    The Victor "repair" seal should be available aftermarket, it's a bright orange color and marked "silicone". It is a loose fit however, and if you use this it will need a thin smear of sealant to stick it into the rear housing, otherwise it can work its way out. I've never used the Elring but it should be fine. OE is CFW Bruss, if you buy the seal from the dealer.

    Make sure the seal is 100% perfectly level when installed, and shell out for the new flex plate bolts with microecapsulated sealant... I've tried reusing them with various sealants and nothing worked perfectly. Then again, if you enjoy pulling the transmission for fun, you can experiment and let us know what you find out!

    EDIT: Link to epic thread about rear main seal R&R: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3773

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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    I definitely don't want to pull the transmission for fun! That's why I'm checking what brand to use. Do it once but properly and forget about it... Flex plate bolts - hmmm, I wouldn't expect them to be single use only??? I'm 99% positive that mine were reused. Loctite 574 (equivalent to MB orange sealant) won't work? I have used it countless of times in various Porsche applications and it never leaked a drop of oil.
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Quote Originally Posted by darek_u View Post
    I definitely don't want to pull the transmission for fun! That's why I'm checking what brand to use. Do it once but properly and forget about it... Flex plate bolts - hmmm, I wouldn't expect them to be single use only??? I'm 99% positive that mine were reused. Loctite 574 (equivalent to MB orange sealant) won't work? I have used it countless of times in various Porsche applications and it never leaked a drop of oil.
    FSM clearly says the bolts are single-use, but many pros do re-use them. The anaerobic sealant is likely your best bet if you do re-use the bolts, just remember to chase the threads in the crank, and clean male + female threads with solvent to remove all traces of oil. I did this once and later had to take it apart, 7 of the 8 were dry, but that last one was letting oil past the threads. YMMV, etc. I don't like shelling out $30+ for bolts either but I'd happily pay $30+ to not pull the transmission again. The bigger hassle is bracing the flexplate / crank while turning the bolts 90° as the factory tool is NLA, the one which allows using the crank lock with the transmission removed.

    Forgot to mention, eyeballing the Victor 'repair' seal, it doesn't appear much different than the regular seals, although the dimensions listed on the label are slightly different. Could be that it's not easily visible with the naked eye.

    Are you sure you have an actual groove on the crank, enough to catch a fingernail on?


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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    There is definitely a groove. My mechanic went through 2 crank seals already, trying to place them slightly offset to the groove but it didn't work. I'll consider new bolts, I need to check on the price here.
    Yet another surprise. Three online retailers that claimed to have Elring in stock reverted with the information that the part is not available... I love when these guys don't update the stock and availability. I'm still waiting for info from another two. One of the retailers says that he's got a Corteco seal - another surprise as I was told they are NLA. Would you consider using a Corteco if Elring is not available?
    This is getting more complicated as it should be.
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Corteco / CFW should also be OK. The OE seal is Bruss, btw... edited my previous post.

    It's nearly impossible to offset the rear man seal evenly, at least not without using the factory tool that presses the seal in place (or, removing the carrier from the block). I'm really not sure what your options are if there is a groove on the crank surface that cannot be repaired.

    Last I checked, you could get your choice of Victor, Elring, Corteco, or OE here in USA. Maybe the aftermarket availability is different in Europe?

    For 120-997-02-46, Importec shows Corteco and Elring:
    https://importecautoparts.com/parts/...97%2002%2046/3

    AHAZ has the orange Victor "repair" seal:
    https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0059978347

    FCP shows Corteco:
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?utf...=120-997-02-46



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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    I'll go for Corteco then. It wouldn't be the first time that availability of parts is different on both sides of the pond. The other thing is if the online catalogs are up to date.
    I hope that the repair seal will cure the leak - I believe the idea is that the lip that rides on the crank is 1.75 mm offset to the place where "standard" lip rides. This allows to drive in the seal completely, thus it seats even in the carrier.
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Quote Originally Posted by darek_u View Post
    I hope that the repair seal will cure the leak - I believe the idea is that the lip that rides on the crank is 1.75 mm offset to the place where "standard" lip rides. This allows to drive in the seal completely, thus it seats even in the carrier.
    That was my understanding as well, that the lip was a couple mm offset vs the standard seal. However, the Victor orange seal *looks* like the lip rides in the same area, when put next to a standard seal. All the other mfr's have standard (not repair) seals. I don't know if you can source any other repair seal with the offset lip, now that the OE / dealer one is NLA.


  16. #12
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Just to finalize this thread - I got my seal replaced and the leak is gone for good. Long story short I finally scored the Elring RMS, on top of that I also purchased the Victor Reinz - it will stay in my spares stock, just in case. For those who are curious - see pictures of both Elring and VR. The secret of the "repair size" seal lies in it's height I believe - these are 13mm high instead of standard 10mm. This allows the lip to be offset for 1-2mm.

    IMG_8456.JPGDSCN2397.JPGDSCN2396.JPG
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    Re: Rear main seal repair size

    Interesting. The Elring seals I have are black, not orange!

    I would have sworn the Victor "repair" seal was no taller than stock but I'll put them side by side again to double check.


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