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Thread: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

  1. #1
    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Hello gang,

    I searched through various threads and I am trying to getting a soup-to-nuts view on what is required to effect this procedure. As a background, my rear blind goes up without an issue. It also goes down, however, in the last step where the blind is supposed to snap back into its slot, it just kind of gives up and flops onto the rear deck. It is as if the rear blind is now exhausted and cannot muster the strength to go back into the rear slot.

    OK Questions -

    Is removal of the blind as simple as this: http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...sis/68-460.pdf

    Or do I need to do this as well, which I am loath to do, because I hate removing and refitting the fiddly C-pillar trim: http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...sis/68-458.pdf

    R44Raven,

    Quote Originally Posted by r44raven View Post
    When I acquired my 500E, I had problems initially with the blind not retracting. The raising/lowering arms worked fine, but I think the retract spring in the roller mechanism below the rear parcel shelf had become weak and the blind would just fold itself into a heap on the parcel shelf. (I think this is because the blind had always been left in the raised position?). I've (sort-of) cured the problem by (a) leaving the blind retracted at all times other than when its needed, and (b) by nudging it down a bit at a time with quick short bursts on the facia button, rather than holding the button down continuously.
    Have you fully cured (as opposed to partially cured) this issue since 2015?

    Anyways, if removal and replacement of the rear blind is as simple as the first procedure (breaking brittle plastic clips notwithstanding), I wish to attempt Ivanned's HOWTO here: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ll=1#post47060
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  2. #2
    Member rinconmann's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I just did this procedure in order to remove a thin tube I dropped into the blind when lubricating. I needed to replace the trunk hinge stops anyways. IDK about the above procedure but can tell it is quite easy if you JUST want to remove the blind assembly. Here is a quick down and dirty:

    Make sure headrests are in down position. remove the 4 10mm nuts under the trunk panel that hold the blind assembly. There are 2 per side. go back to cabin and remove small trim pieces on left and right of blind. Pull them forward they come out easy. Next go in the trunk and push the bolt end that you took the 10mm nuts off so that you can get your hands on the blind one you get back into the car. There is nothing to grab so this helps. Then just pull straight up and out. I removed the 3rd brake light myself. You lastly need to disconnect the 3rd brake light connector and 2 connectors that attach to the blind itself. Reverse same. I recommend using a towel over the rear shelf taking it in and out so you don't damage anything.

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  4. #3
    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Thank you rinconmann! When you say "JUST remove the blind assembly" does that include the motor and the arms for the blind assembly?
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Hi Jlaa,
    Have I "fully" cured the problem? I guess not, in that I haven't dismantled the blind mechanism to try and retension the return spring. As I can make it retract perfectly by "pulsing" the switch in short bursts, I haven't worried to explore further!
    Rgds - r44raven

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  7. #5
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I did also have a sticky rear blind in my 500E. It would not retract properly and as per R44raven’s posts I had to bump the switch and lower it very slowly to get it to go down and pull the blind inside the shelf.

    It is fixed now however – I used a Teflon based lubricant I had on the shelf and touched it to both sides of the blind ‘axle’ as circled in red. The effect was immediate on the first side. As soon as the lube hit the axle the floppy blind sprung back tight & it’s been perfect ever since! Retracting up & down as it should without having to pause the switch & bump it. I think this is all that is needed.

    The W124 C pillar trims are very hard to remove without the securing clips behind breaking off. Like a 10% chance of success! So best left alone if possible IMO.

    IMG_3652.JPG IMG_3653.JPG
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    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa,

    I’m w/ JC on the Teflon spray. Mine got stuck in the up position while at cars & coffee. A guy I met shook it a couple of times while I ran it down. A temp fix.

    I have a 20 year old can of Teflon spray. It worked for me no problems sense that bother me. I carefully sprayed it into the sliding tracks.

    I will have to check out Joe’s pic a little better on the X when I have a computer in front of me. I don’t think mine settles into the case. I have never forced that last inch because the gear makes snapping sound and I don’t want to grind a pound of plastic off of it.

    I’m satisfied with mine’s operation which I did about 7or 8 years ago and I raise and lower it frequently when my black car is out on a sunny day.

    Anyway try a Teflon spray 1st. It sure can’t hurt.
    Terry

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  11. #7
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    The lube I used is actually a Teflon rich synthetic chain oil. Spray lubes are much more likely to evaporate off given time - these lubricants stay put for years
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Of course this seemingly straightforward job has already turned into a nightmare. These are the four nuts in the trunk un the rear deck. The one with the needle nose pliers on it just turns and turns with the bolt coming from above. Argh. Any ideas on removal? Thanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jlaa; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:53 AM.
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlaa View Post
    Of course this seemingly straightforward job has already turned into a nightmare. These are the four nuts in the trunk un the rear deck. The one with the needle nose pliers on it just turns and turns with the bolt coming from above. Argh. Any ideas on removal? Thanks.
    Can you get a flat blade or ideally something like an upholstery "fork" tool under the nut? If so you can try prying back a bit on the nut while using a socket to turn it. Sometimes that bit of tension is just enough to catch a spinning bolt/stud so you can get the nut off. Admittedly usually that trick is best for a bolt head, not the nut side. Or if you have any way to grab the stud from behind with pliers or vise grip, which will certainly damage the threads. Another trick is to run the nut back down (CW) and cut a slit into the stud end that you can get a flat blade into. Then you can hold the stud with the flat blade while backing the nut off with an open-end wrench.

    Beyond that... more destructive methods like cutting the nut off come into play.

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Wow. Those bolts are not supposed to turn as they are pressed into a base plate. You will have to get a bite on that bolt to get a open end wrench around the nut to break the initial tightness. I would try three things; try to use those needle nose to grab the top of the bolt in place and open end wrench to turn the bolt. Maybe just finger pressure on top of the bolt may be enough from inside the trunk. I just tried it. Your finger can get to it through the holes.The top is only a small round head so there is almost nothing to grab. Ideal tool is a angled needle nose vice grip but just grab that small head. Try that first. If you have enough room you may able to just stick a thin saw blade into the space between the nut and car body just enough to press its teeth against the bolt to hold it so you can break it. The next solutions are more involved and you should be good with above. If you need a picture of the base and top of nut let me know. My unit is actually out right now. I bought a new motor and replaced it.

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  17. #11
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    The entire unit comes out with everything.

  18. #12
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    See pictures if it helps. Sorry about the sideways pictures.



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  20. #13
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    The lube I used is actually a Teflon rich synthetic chain oil. Spray lubes are much more likely to evaporate off given time - these lubricants stay put for years
    Thanks! I got to try out my new endoscope tool from the top to see what I was doing --- liberally applied spray lubricant - unfortunately the operation of the blind is still the same. Oh well. Neat endoscope pictures below:

    Photo on 9-2-18 at 8.03 AM.jpg Photo on 9-2-18 at 8.02 AM.jpg Photo on 9-2-18 at 8.03 AM #2.jpg Photo on 9-2-18 at 8.06 AM.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by Wide Open Cowbell View Post
    Can you get a flat blade or ideally something like an upholstery "fork" tool under the nut? .... Another trick is to run the nut back down (CW) and cut a slit into the stud end that you can get a flat blade into. Then you can hold the stud with the flat blade while backing the nut off with an open-end wrench....Beyond that... more destructive methods like cutting the nut off come into play.
    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    Wow. Those bolts are not supposed to turn as they are pressed into a base plate. You will have to get a bite on that bolt to get a open end wrench around the nut to break the initial tightness. I would try three things....
    Thanks - I just tried all these methods with no success. I am fairly certain that I am not the first operator of these nuts. I suspect someone more ham-fisted than I somehow cross threaded or jammed the two passenger's side nuts on. The Driver's side nuts were easy-peasy to get off. (Get your mind of the gutter!!! Or maybe its my mind that is in the gutter) One I was able to luckily get off but the other one, of course, is totally stuck. Seized. I need to be able to apply a shit-ton of holding-torque from the other side (top / blind side) to wrench this nut off, and I think I will have to go the dremel route...

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    See pictures if it helps. Sorry about the sideways pictures....
    Thank you! Do you have a picture of the other side of those bolts by the way? (the blind side). BTW - I am assuming you removed all this still without touching the blasted C-pillar trim right? (I removed the C-pillar trim 2 years ago, and was so traumatized by the experience as JC220 alludes to that I promised myself never to touch that trim again. )
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa,

    STOP!! What you are doing and TAKE a BREAK!! Go eat lunch or have a beer.

    Things will look better when you get back to it.
    Terry

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  24. #15
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I agree. Drink and relax first or TAKE A BREAK! I will upload a couple more photos in the meantime. Don't cut the car! Accept you were dealt some work from previous mechanic or owner or lady luck.

    Worst case yes you can get to them from under the rear deck panel but more work and you know that. There is a full process to this described by others that start with removing rear seats, screws fasteners under lid of first aid kit, third brake lights, c pillar covers, seat-belt bolt at base to slide off c-pillar cover, headrests and headrest trim pieces (very simple process to remove headrest "locks" from inside trunk). Others go over it in detail. I will just mention this as you have done it before; remove c-pillar covers super carefully and have some plastic epoxy if you break those tabs. Also don't lose those metal tabs that go inside the cover piece. $42 usd each! There is a technique to getting them off without damage. I personally had 2 tabs bend. You can eventually lift up that rear panel piece and get a vice grip or like tool on it. This is a hell project by anybodies standard and I am sorry a lose rivet bolt got you. If you go that far and have to remove that rear deck consider replacing worn trunk hinge stops and bad foam inside speaker grills. Gerry has a great write up doing that job. I did both and the stops and felt are very cheap. Just doing the job is pretty involved.

    Don't cut it off. I will send more pictures in an hour or so. Just don't grind or cut or you will make it worse and that part is expensive.

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    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Thank you. I have amateur question- can I not just dremel a slot into the bottom side of the bolt to hold the bolt still with a flat head screw driver while I wrench off the nut? I was thinking of then replacing the bolt and Epoxing it there once I have the whole assembly out. Is this not an advisable course of action? I was not thinking of cutting the sheet metal in the car
    Last edited by Jlaa; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:38 PM.
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  27. #17
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I think it is creative and if you don't do much visible damage go for it. Here are a bunch of related pictures just in case you have to get to it from inside the rear deck. This is an hour more work each way to do it right. It involves the very project you wanted to avoid! Again sorry for the side loads. Note that I added some pictures of my testing and lubricating the unit. What is the point if you can't test and lubricate. It requires 2 alligator clips and a 12vdc power source with at least 2.5amps. I have a variable DC power generator but any 12 volt combo of 2.5 amps will work. One can even make a temp power supply from AA batteries. FYI Reversing the charges runs the motor back and forth.


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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Here are some related pictures. Hope they help and explain what you need if your work explands. Harbor freight has cheap plastic wedge tools that work well on trim and may have alligator clips and a 12volt DC power supply with 2.5AMPS min current required to run motor. well





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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    If all else fails consider this custom option


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  33. #20
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    Here are some related pictures. Hope they help and explain what you need if your work explands. Harbor freight has cheap plastic wedge tools that work well on trim and may have alligator clips and a 12volt DC power supply with 2.5AMPS min current required to run motor.
    Thanks for the pictures - very helpful!

    Well, I threw the frisbee and the football around with my daughter, ate some poke for lunch, and went and fetched my dremel from a job site across town. That got my mind fresh again.

    I told the nut that its days were numbered, and when I showed up with the dremel, it said that it was tired of living. Success! I got the blasted nut off without much damage. I will stop here for today. Tomorrow I will take out the roller blind and figure out what I want to do - replace the internal gears with the BROSS gears I bought a year ago or replace the whole motor assembly with a W220 motor assembly as Ivanned did. Pictures below:

    Nut is jammed in below picture. The bolt spins with the nut. It cannot go CW nor CCW. Just spins. The nut has been backed out to be flush with the tip of the bolt, and is jammed at this point. Note the scratches in the sheetmetal are not by me - these scratches must be from someone else who was here before me....
    IMG_1719.jpg


    Cutting a slot into the nut. This resulted in a face full of fine metal shavings mixed with the heat of sparks on skin (working on my back in the trunk).
    IMG_1720.jpg

    Used a flat head screwdriver to hold the nut while using an open ended wrench to wrench off the nut.
    IMG_1721.jpg

    The remains of the nut that was tired of living:
    IMG_1723.jpg

    Close up of the nut - you can see the threads are totally munged up (which caused it to jam)
    IMG_1726.jpg

    Remains of the bolt, still poking through the rear deck. If I chase it with a tap/die, it might still be reuseable --- but only if for some reason I cannot get a new bolt there after I take out the blind assembly tomorrow.
    IMG_1724.jpg

    Indeed, I have those yellow trim tool from Harbor Freight and a 2 amp variable power supply (not 2.5 amps) --- I'll see how much headroom it has - if I can drive it at 2.5 amps.

    Anyways, the community here @ 500Eboard -
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I spend 3-4 hours on a friggen rear suspension accumulator nut on my 560SEC today and couldn't get it loose. I got it off but destroyed the stud/nut in the process. The Mercedes gods are not with us to Jlaa.
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I think Honch and me had some choice words while that sphere spent a few minutes in the vise at his shop. It took some torkage and leverage for sure.
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  38. #23
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by RicardoD View Post
    The Mercedes gods are not with us to Jlaa.
    I think that's a Bay Area thing.....

  39. #24
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I am very interested in how you fully service your blind Jlaa. My 500E is OK now but my w140's blind has jammed upright. I do have a full spare w140 rear blind so may service that first myself then swap it in.
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Okay, I am at this step now. Rather than pushing up on the four bolts w my fingers, I found it easier to temporarily bend the three sheetmetal tabs on the underside of the rear deck to push up the silver housing of the roller blind assembly.

    However at this point, pushing from the bottom, the roller blind assembly feels like it weighs 500 lbs. that cannot be right.... it must be catching on something. Any tips on extraction? I have not removed the first aid box lid.
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I'd love to see this developed.

    Does anyone have a picture of the broken gears? I'd love to grease mine..

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa - you may get some more "play" in the rear deck that will give you more wiggle room if you remove the two screws that attach the front of the deck piece. These are the screws that act also to hold down the first aid kit lid. Once you remove those the deck will give you some play, at least in the center. You may want to remove the rear seats to get better access to the lip of the rear deck. They come off fast and easy. Please keep us posted.

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    See if you can push up the bolts from inside the trunk and use a piece of thin metal to put over the holes so the bolts don't fall back down. From your post it appears perhaps that the heavy feeling you have may be the bolt grooves binding on the edge of the holes they are in. Make sure to remove third break light so you have max vertical room. If you clear those holes there is nothing else holding the blind down. Also because of the motor and gear turn sticking out of the back you have to pull up the front of the blind first. Up, forward out motion I recall. Going to reinstall mine today in about an hour so if you are still stuck I will pay special attention to the reinstall on that unit and post. Be careful not to break your rear glass. I read about an owner who broke theirs hitting it with a tool working the back.

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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    One more thing. Maybe very important omission to prior posts; To get max room vertically I removed the third brake light BASE too 1st when I did my removal. You have to use a small L shaped Phillips head because there is no room. My base had 2 small screws and broke it anyways as it was brittle from sun exposure. I just used super glue but plastic epoxy best.

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  50. #30
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    Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Much harder to reinstall and my deck is loose. I had to remove a speaker grill housing on one side. The technique I used is to come in with one end (the one with the existing speaker grill) then at same time placing the rear motor and arms UNDER the rear deck lid first then swinging it over the removed grill into hole. Make sure to remove those covers on the bolt ends if you use them before you drop in. Do not forget to attach both connectors to the motor and switch and feed third brake light lead through the hole before dropping in. I forgot the brake light lead and had to feed it up through the hole via trunk. This project is easier with deck loose. I will never use the term "Just" anymore as this project can be tedious but with time and patience can be completed in an afternoon.



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  52. #31
    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Okay after several hours of struggle - removing the rear blind is not possible with the rear deck fixed. I have concluded that I have to get the deck loose. I removed the c- pillar covers. Omg. So far nothing broken. What else did you remove - the rear headrests? What else do you meed to do to get the rear deck loose?
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  54. #32

    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Props for not breaking the speaker grills.
    This kind of work makes me nervous because it is so easy to break stuff.
    Continue the good work.

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  56. #33
    Member rinconmann's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I agree. I think you can remove the deck before the blind.

    In order to remove that rear deck I have mentioned several things above and will do a summary here; 1st remove the two trim pieces on each edge of the blind as they pull forward and out. Remove C pillar covers (see detailed instructions by others), remove 2 front fasteners for first aid kit lid with Philips screwdriver, remove headrest trims with plastic wedge (they pop out). Remove Headrests; easy to remove; (put them in up position, get in trunk, remove the top 2 pull fasteners on the top of the panel that covers gas tank. You can also remove three more on bottom and take the whole panel out. DON'T LOSE. Use a plastic wedge to pull up plastics pins first then wedge out main plugs. This panel covers the gas tank and you can now get to headrest anchors. Now if you look at the base where the rest pothere are 2 holes for the poles, look carefully where the headrest poles go into. Up from the entry hole a couple inches or about 5cm you will see the "locks" which are spring loaded. They are spring loaded plugs. Just pull back the spring loaded pin,turn it to the side for now. This releases the headrest poles and you can now pull them out. One lock per pole so 2 per side. Make sure to leave the mounts in that up position or you will have to wedge something to keep them up on re-install. Now worst part is getting one side of the speaker grill out. If you can remove the deck itself remove one side speaker grill as they can be installed POST blind reinstall but before you secure everything.

    I see Jlaa you taped the grill but my experience today showed me I just did not have enough room to push the base pegs over the grill. So I took it out. If I was to do it over I would probably try to put blind in first and deck panel next. I think I took it out that way. Mine is all back except for c-pillars as I am doing headrests next.
    Last edited by rinconmann; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:27 PM. Reason: text error

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  58. #34
    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    So Close as yet so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    I agree. I think you can remove the deck before the blind.

    In order to remove that rear deck I have mentioned several things above and will do a summary here; 1st remove the two trim pieces on each edge of the blind as they pull forward and out.
    Done. For anyone that has to do this, note that there is a tiny little metal insert that goes into the slots to hold the two trim pieces tight. Black in color. about 0.5mm x 2mm large. The probability of losing this is about 100% as you pull the trim piece out. Not to fear, you can put a little silicone glue back to secure the trim piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post

    Remove C pillar covers (see detailed instructions by others)
    Done. The side benefit is that now I am a pro and C pillar trim piece extraction and removal. I can remove and reinstall in less than 5 minutes. The trick, for anyone doing this --- DO NOT install the metal fastener onto the trim first. Install it onto the sheetmetal of the C-pillar.

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    , remove 2 front fasteners for first aid kit lid with Philips screwdriver, remove headrest trims with plastic wedge (they pop out). Remove Headrests; easy to remove; (put them in up position, get in trunk, remove the top 2 pull fasteners on the top of the panel that covers gas tank. You can also remove three more on bottom and take the whole panel out. DON'T LOSE. Use a plastic wedge to pull up plastics pins first then wedge out main plugs. This panel covers the gas tank and you can now get to headrest anchors.
    Done.

    BTW for posterity, this is what my under-headrest locking mechanism looks like. Left side locked, and right side is unlocked. I put this here b/c this looks NOTHING like the FSM here - http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20...sis/68-458.pdf . I don't know what the FSM is drawing, but it sure ain't drawing what I have in my car!

    IMG_1758.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    Now if you look at the base where the rest pothere are 2 holes for the poles, look carefully where the headrest poles go into. Up from the entry hole a couple inches or about 5cm you will see the "locks" which are spring loaded. They are spring loaded plugs. Just pull back the spring loaded pin,turn it to the side for now. This releases the headrest poles and you can now pull them out. One lock per pole so 2 per side. Make sure to leave the mounts in that up position or you will have to wedge something to keep them up on re-install.
    Done.



    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    Now worst part is getting one side of the speaker grill out. If you can remove the deck itself remove one side speaker grill as they can be installed POST blind reinstall but before you secure everything.
    At this point, my most difficult part was to try and get the rear sunshade to clear the stiff fiberboard lip of the rear deck panel. My god that was awful. I struggled with that for 4 hours. I can get it to clear, but once clear, I cannot manhandle the sunshade mechanism out. Took a break, did some other stuff, went back, and wasted yet another 2 hours. I don't know about your car, but in my car the tolerances between the sunshade and the shiny metal part of the sunshade mechanism has to be miraculously like -3mm. NEGATIVE 3mm.

    This here: IMG_1745.jpg
    This is rage inducing. There are two tiny metal lips, both of which are supposed seat below the fiberboard rear deck. just to get the 2nd bottom most lip clear of the rear deck requires some act of utter sorcery given the crazy tolerances. If you get one side to go up, the other side goes down. The only way I can get both sides up was to go back into the trunk on my back and much with Samson-like finger strength. But then, all that shit is just jammed. No $%#%$#@-ing place to go. Can't go up, can't go out, can't go anywhere. And the shiny brackets on each side with the captive bolts still weren't clearing the fiberboard panel by at least an inch and half.

    At this point, I'm embarrassed to say, I gave up. Thanks for all the pointers --- I know what's involved now to do it the RIGHT way --- I took everything apart up to the sunshade part, and then I put everything back together. Just getting the %$@%$#@ sunshade back into the slots in the metal rear deck AND MAKING SURE that the fiberboard deck panel sat ABOVE the sunshade took 90 $#%$@ minutes ---- the negative 3mm tolerance again.

    I'm going to live with my 95% operational sunshade that doesn't go the last 1 inch back into its slot. This job is terrible. You must have the patience of Mother Theresa.

    Last edited by Jlaa; 2 Weeks Ago at 12:14 AM.
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  60. #35
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa, really sorry to read of your frustrating problems! Pity you didn't post your woes before you re-assembled everything, because once you had the C pillars out you are only a couple of moves from being able to remove the rear shelf completely - and thus give you full access the the blind. All you had to do is remove the back seat (easy, just 3 bolts to remove) and then the rear shelf will slide out .
    Also, if you know where to aim the screwdriver, you can "unlock" the headrests from within the car by pressing on their unlock tabs accessible through the holes in the rear shelf through which the headrest posts protrude - rather than via the boot.

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  62. #36
    E500E Guru Jlaa's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Thanks. I will try this again -probably in 2019 or 2020 - except next time I will start and remove the rear deck FIRST. Actually I did remove the rear seat back. I tried to shortcut thr job this time around by leaving the deck in place - bad idea. Now that I have done it a few times, I could prob remove the rear seat bottoms, backs, CHMSL, C pillar trim, and headrests all within 45 mins, working leisurely.

    This time things went pear shaped bc I was dead set on removing the blind assembly before the deck .... clearly easn’t going to happen w my car. All is not wasted, I learned to conquer my fear of the c-pillar trim..... even after Der Furor’s dire warnings.

    https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2107

    Also I learned to admire the amount of heavy steel used in the construction of the rear seat back. I find interior work is nerve wracking bc so much shit can get scratched or damaged along the way - delicate and brittle plastics, lacquered wood, light colored fabrics .... and many parts NLA. Like finish carpentry but you cannot fudge it up!

    This as opposed to, say, brake work or exhaust work which I find to be more tolerant of ham fisted approaches ... like rough framing.
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  64. #37
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa,

    That was a pretty ballsy effort and congrats on getting it back together w/o damaging anything. Well Done!!

    BTW, You have confirmed my worst fears about fixing that last inch of travel.
    I am now very happy with the rear blind action on my car. It will remain as is unless it quits completely.
    When and if that ever happens, I will have your thread w/ rinconman’s tutorials r44raven’s comments to rely on.

    BTW, If you still really intend to do this job again, don’t wait a year. DO IT SOON!! While it’s still fresh in your head.
    Terry

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  66. #38
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Jlaa it was a valiant effort and I also hope you return to it soon. It took me a full Saturday to R&R mine on my 500E. Also IMO the rear headrests are much more fiddly to remove on the 500E models due to the larger fuel tank. A seem on the tank prevents the headrests from readily coming out, that is unless you hold them tight - fully upright. It took me a good hour just to figure that bit out before. And as I had the engine apart at the same time I could not fire it up to release the headrests, I had to jerry rig a vacuum line and hook onto another W124’s engine just to do that bit. I now have a mityvac do prevent such a situation in the future. AKA the ability to pull vacuum without a running engine!

    The speaker covers are delicate too. You must use pry tools and very carefully pry upwards to release without breaking off clips. As already mentioned those C pillar trims are a bear to get off without damage. What I do now is have a spare C pillar trim by my side and carefully plan the removal.The clips are brittle and hard to locate prior to removal. Usually you discover them as they fly past your forehead at mach 3.

    In short -removal of a w124 rear parcel shelf + blind for the first time and or / if not having done it for years is a job I would class under “Great potential for new form of (Highly effective) capital punishment”.I too think you should return to it soon as if your like me you will forget all the tricks of removal in a few months
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  68. #39
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    It is a hell project but do it in stages so to do no damage from frustration. Also, reading above I must make a correction on headrests. My anchors were down yesterday when reinstalling which tell me I used the range of free motion to remove them once the lock pins were turned. From inside trunk I could not push them into lock so I used a 2 x 2 wood wedge and cardboard to push them high enough to start the holes then they can be pushed in fully. I also recall being able to release them from locked by manually pushing the lock bar over with a flathead otherwise car must be started to release. Since mine were down I have to assume the range of motion must be used to find the sweet extraction spot in the curve of motion. So not knowing about the larger tanks and room I can say get in trunk on your back, release headrest lock so you have free range, pull out and offset the lock spring pin for each pole then use whatever position in play to remove. Upon reinstall you may have to wedge them up like I did but it works. Just had to correct that as details matter.
    Last edited by rinconmann; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:09 AM. Reason: text error

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  70. #40
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    I completed my reinstall with a small scratch to the edge of the speaker grill which is barely noticeable. I wish I could recall my tear down in more detail but have to state once again I believe the rear deck once free can be removed and replaced with the blind in place but loose on its mounts so it moves as the deck is pulled off. So if you are going to do all the work to remove rear deck you can avoid potential damage to the grill, etc. This is what I would try first if I were to do a reinstall over again. TRY THAT FIRST as it is the path of least damage potential and frustration. You can always go back to forcing it but there is no room. Make sure to get a L shaped Philips head or make one from a driver bit head and open end wrench to screw down the baseplate of the third brake light as you will have no room one you mount that blind.

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  72. #41
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    Also, reading above I must make a correction on headrests.

    Just had to correct that as details matter.
    With respect if you are referring to my comments regarding the headrests VS the E500E larger fuel tank I 100% stand by those comments. People with those larger fuel tanks will find it much more difficult to remove the headrests trust me. BTDT. The fuel tank seem is right there where the headrests would normally withdraw. I have worked on both normal tank versions and my 500E on rear headrest extraction and it is different in that respect.
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  74. #42
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Riconmann, thanks for relaying your key learnings in near parallel and real time sequence. I cannot help but to chuckle at these two posts, which spanned one day. Initially:

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    I just did this procedure...can tell it is quite easy if you JUST want to remove the blind assembly..
    to the following:

    Quote Originally Posted by rinconmann View Post
    It is a hell project but do it in stages...so to do no damage from frustration.
    .

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    .I too think you should return to it soon as if your like me you will forget all the tricks of removal in a few months
    JC220, my mind works similarly but also I must give my mind enough time to forget the extreme frustration and angst ... my mind must heal properly from the mental anguish such that my mind once again foolishly looks at a project like this and looks at my past experience with rose tinted glasses, beckoning my hands to give the experience another go.

    Let me say one more thing to give reassurance to folks like TerryA that they have chosen wisely to ignore fixing the last inch of travel of the blind:

    The other week I was at Monterey, CA at the Legends of the Autobahn with the 500Eboard gang, and I was noting with absolute absurdity the scenario of listening to Diana Krall crooning relaxing lounge jazz music at 7.30 in the morning. It just so happens that I own 12 albums by Ms. Krall. I listened to all of them while working on the sunshade. Twelve. Twelve albums of Ms. Krall, the chanteuse that she is, purr relaxing sweet nothings in my ear. At 14 songs per album, that is one hundred and sixty-eight songs of blithe romance by Ms. Krall. And yet that was still not enough mental quaaludes to prevent me from throwing in the towel in disgust.
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  76. #43
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    Re: Servicing the electric rear blind in 2018

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlaa View Post
    It just so happens that I own 12 albums by Ms. Krall. I listened to all of them while working on the sunshade. Twelve. Twelve albums of Ms. Krall, the chanteuse that she is, purr relaxing sweet nothings in my ear. At 14 songs per album, that is one hundred and sixty-eight songs of blithe romance by Ms. Krall. And yet that was still not enough mental quaaludes to prevent me from throwing in the towel in disgust.
    You need to change your approach. Heavy metal is far better. As in vintage Scorpions, Judas Priest, Motorhead and perhaps Iron Maiden.

    The soft stuff is great for doing delicate tasks, such as re-assembling the fine pieces inside a tandem pump, but Metal makes things go much smoother.

    Nothing compares to the likes of Lemmy purring relaxing sweet nothings in my ear.....

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