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Thread: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

  1. #61
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Moving on to parting it out (reluctantly)...

    Developed a missfire and rough idle when warm, traced it down, fixed (all moisture related under the caps), cleaned the connectors, replaced the rotors... When for a drive, now there is a metal weird sounds coming from the rear end, somewhere in the diff area. Barely made it back to the driveway. Was going to try another valve body, with with this "extra issue" I'm done...

    I look at this car as a great learning experience, it certainly helped me do develop a great amount of confidence, but considering it still needs full re-spray, needs soft top replacement and all the hydraulics re-done, financially, it no longer makes sense to me repairing it any further...

    I bought it for parts and proud that I was able to make the engine run perfectly (after 3 shops gave up on it), even drove it for few months... But it is time to let this red devil serve others with spare parts. I'm going to start with interior bits and pieces, engine compartment components would be the last to go (as I still want to be able to move the car around if needs to be)

    In a good light, 10 footer, and that is how I'm going to remember it



    Regards,
    D

    P.S. I still have the 744 Silver one, but it is not 500 =(

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  3. #62
    E500E Guru a777fan's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Sounds like a good decision D. In a perfect world, we'd all have unlimited time and resources to 'tinker'. Since that's not the case, we must all choose wisely.

    I'll miss the updates though!

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  5. #63
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by a777fan View Post
    Sounds like a good decision D. In a perfect world, we'd all have unlimited time and resources to 'tinker'. Since that's not the case, we must all choose wisely.

    I'll miss the updates though!
    In the perfect world, yessss!!! In reality, I'm actually re-thinking my entire parking space at the house, and what I think would happen, is this:

    SL500 for parts
    C280 to sell
    SL320 to sell
    Grand Cherokee WJ to sell

    And replace those with W211 4matic wagon + a later model R129 Sport (whenever they last year of M119 they offered in that chasis) and that would be good enough. Should be ready by the spring time...

    Regards,
    D

  6. #64
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Dagnabbit! I really wanted to find out if a different VB would cure the trans.

    Can you take a closer look at the rear end? Could be something simple there! Is that the only issue besides the tranny?


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  8. #65
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Dagnabbit! I really wanted to find out if a different VB would cure the trans...
    So... Just for shits, went back to those PDF manual, here is the ATSG troubleshooting guide (my issues are in red brackets)




    Other than the first part (I don't know how to check the primary pump pressure, and if it is a failure, I'm not going back inside the tranny, that is for certain), it talks about renewing/replacing the shift valve housing for each scenario. I'm assuming it is the same as the Valve Body? If so, Dave, you and Jono certainly have a great and valid suspicions that the failure can be due to that maize looking pandora box VB with 18 freaking balls and springs!!!!!

    So, pleeeeeeeeeeeease... This would be my final attempt to do anything. Car "drives" fine in reverse, no slipping at all... Are there instructions to how to check the pump pressure while on the car? What tools do I need? Is that something I can do myself?

    Finally, who has a known working 2nd gear start valve body and wants to part with it? I neeeeeeeed to try one of these...

    Regards,
    D

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    I think what they refer to as "shift valve housing" may be the VB, but we'd need Klink or Jono to confirm.

    You can measure control pressure by connecting a gauge, you remove a plug on the side of the tranny and attach the gauge to view pressures while driving. MB wants you to set the vac modulator using this method but it's far easier to adjust by feel / trial+error test drives. However, in your case the pressures would be helpful. I wonder if the primary pump could be at fault, as you wouldn't have replaced this.

    Gotta be SOMEONE out there who has a leftover 2nd gear start VB! How about all those folks who upgraded to FGS VB's?


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  12. #67
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    I think what they refer to as "shift valve housing" may be the VB, but we'd need Klink or Jono to confirm.

    You can measure control pressure by connecting a gauge, you remove a plug on the side of the tranny and attach the gauge to view pressures while driving. MB wants you to set the vac modulator using this method but it's far easier to adjust by feel / trial+error test drives. However, in your case the pressures would be helpful. I wonder if the primary pump could be at fault, as you wouldn't have replaced this.

    Gotta be SOMEONE out there who has a leftover 2nd gear start VB! How about all those folks who upgraded to FGS VB's?

    The "shift valve housing" is the valve body assembly.
    Putting the fun in dysfunction...

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    10 min into the test drive... Back to exactly the same thing what I've started with!!!

    10 min on cold transmission - perfect, so happy (was), smooth, quiet, easy shifting. Warmed up, and the very same shit again, revs up, flaring up, not upshifting. Exactly the symptoms it started with before rebuilding the tranny.

    If any one could suggest what else could I try after this complete rebuild, not allowing the transmission to upshift when warm, I'd be happy to try something...

    I did go through the valve body, no broken springs found, cleaned it all up, replaced K1 and K2 accumulators/springs, could it still be the culprit of the failure?
    D, forgot to ask, are all 3 upshifts flaring? Do any result in no upshift at all, or will it eventually get into 4th gear?

    How about downshifts?

    Seesms REALLY weird that it shifts perfectly when cold, but terrible after only 10 minutes.


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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    I have my refreshed Stock 036 VB cleaned and vacuum sealed sitting safely in the climate controlled storage unit, it is not for sale....yet
    1994 E500
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  17. #70
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by nocfn View Post
    I have my refreshed Stock 036 VB cleaned and vacuum sealed sitting safely in the climate controlled storage unit, it is not for sale....yet
    Tease!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    D, forgot to ask, are all 3 upshifts flaring? Do any result in no upshift at all, or will it eventually get into 4th gear?

    How about downshifts?

    Seesms REALLY weird that it shifts perfectly when cold, but terrible after only 10 minutes.

    Dave,

    Right now, when at operating temps, it is slipping through all the forward gears. I think I actually gets into the 2nd, but just revs up after that... Reverse is fine. The story of this gear box is such:

    Bought the car (set outside for 2+ years) - did not move at all, very low on fluid due to leaking B1 and B2 pistons, added 1 bottle of tranny fluid - started to move.

    Towed it home... Drained, refilled, replaced filter, started to drive just fine. Replaced B1 and B2 seals. Drained the fluid again after 200 miles. Drove fine for another 200 miles

    Started to flare in 3rd>4th on occasion. Replaced fluid with Type F, drove like beast for about 100 miles, then back to flaring 3rd>4th

    Another 50 miles of driving in few days, started to get worse as flaring through all the gears, and eventually slipping through all the forward gears at operating temp (but not when cold at first). Replaced the vacuum modulator. No change.

    Rebuild the internals, all new seals, new clutch plates and steels, all new teflons and gaskets, brake bands. Unfortunately, no change. When cold, started to drive fine, but with in 5-10 min, back to slipping and flaring, and now still, through all the forward gears.

    Reverse seem to be fine regardless of the temperature, even burns tires

    Sooooooo, she is parked on the side of the house, haven't had the balls to start parting her out yet...

    Regards,
    D

    P.S. Topless 5.0L is fun thing to drive

    Last edited by Duh_Vinci; 1 Week Ago at 08:03 PM.

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    Sooooooo, she is parked on the side of the house, haven't had the balls to start parting her out yet...

    Regards,
    D

    P.S. Topless 5.0L is fun thing to drive
    I should think you would finish it if only for mental health reasons after investing that sort of sweat equity in the project. But if it were me I would be putting a 722.6 in with paddle shifters and calling it good.

    87 300TD om606 compound turbo
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  21. #72
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by atg View Post
    I should think you would finish it if only for mental health reasons after investing that sort of sweat equity in the project. But if it were me I would be putting a 722.6 in with paddle shifters and calling it good...
    Well, I have the valve body coming my way, I will certainly give it a try, keeping fingers crossed, this would make it drive-able again! 722.6 Would indeed be great, and those can take some serious beating too! Don't have the time or enough "how to" to do something like that.

    Regards,
    D

    P.S. The metal noise coming from rear on the prior test drive silly, really, a piece of gravel stuck at the brake dust shield!
    Last edited by Duh_Vinci; 6 Days Ago at 03:49 AM.

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    Well, I have the valve body coming my way, I will certainly give it a try, keeping fingers crossed, this would make it drive-able again! 722.6 Would indeed be great, and those can take some serious beating too! Don't have the time or enough "how to" to do something like that.

    Regards,
    D
    Well done on the 722.3 rebuild. Not many of us garage heroes attempt that sort of thing. I think it just goes to show how hard these things can be diagnostically. Fyi Mark at Sun Valley will typically pick up the phone if you run into further issues with the project.

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  25. #74
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Dear folks, I'm about to button up the FGS valve body, however, can't find anywhere the fluid capacity without torque converter drain? I know it's 8 quarts at full service, but I didn't bother draining converter (since the fluid is new), just the pain was drained...

    Regards,
    D

  26. #75
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    Dear folks, I'm about to button up the FGS valve body, however, can't find anywhere the fluid capacity without torque converter drain? I know it's 8 quarts at full service, but I didn't bother draining converter (since the fluid is new), just the pain was drained...
    If possible, measure what you drained out. Otherwise, as a VERY ROUGH guide, put in 3 quarts and then check the level with the engine running. When cold, the level should at least be on the dipstick, and may be something like 0.5 to 0.75 inches below the MIN mark. If you're lucky, you'll have one of the dipsticks with dual ranges (cold & hot). Assuming you swapped the VB, you may end up adding about 4 quarts to get the level to MAX when fully hot. Remember to only add 1/4 quart at a time, it's easier to add than it is to remove...


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  28. #76
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    I want to say something like 6 or 7 quarts. I bought a case of Redline Type F for mine and ended up with 5 or 6 quarts left. Add those $.02 to GSXRs advice.

    maw

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  30. #77
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    A full fluid change, with converter drain, is typically 8.0-8.5 quarts. 124's with 4/5/6-cyl engines take 6-7 quarts, depending on the exact engine/tranny combo.

    Draining the pan only, assuming level at MAX and not removing the pan, you'll get 2-3 quarts out. Drop the pan and you can get another half quart or so out... pull the filter & VB and it's an additional half qt.

    With new fluid and only swapping VB's, I drain into a clean container (usually, a gallon ATF jug) and re-use the fluid. This is tricky of course, and requires the transmission to be spotless, so no debris gets into the fluid while draining...


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  32. #78
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    RED DEVIL IS ALIVE!!!!!!!

    Thank for the fluids pointers, I left it draining since yesterday, didn't even think about measuring. Today, dropped the pain, indeed more fluid came out, and once the valve body was loosened up, continued to pour indeed! Could have filtered, but, decided not to take any chances, so new fluids of aprox 4 quarts (added little by little), will check it again tomorrow.

    My car is 1995 SL500, 722.364 and the valve body I used (thank you samiam44) fom 1992 400E WDBEA34E2NB672775 no swapping intermediate plate was needed



    Visually, the only difference I could see is the check valve #24 on the diagram below. First, I was a little puzzled, do I need one, do I not... Really did't want to take VB apart tonight... Reading is fundamental, PDF file clearly states "not used anymore after the omission of the secondary pump" which I don't have, so worries dropped and I proceeded to bolt this pandora box to my 722.364



    I have 1st gear start!!! Imagine that!!! Now, it runs, it drives, it shifts and it chirps tires. I'm limited what I can do tonight in terms of doing a proper testing, private subdivision, nevertheless, it drives and it shifts!!! Drove around for 20-25 min to ensure the operating temp is reached (it was failing before after 5-8 min run... Stop and go, shift in auto and manual... Very good starting point!!!

    Perfect - no, not yet, its the time to fine tune it via bowden cable, modulator adjustment and may even be via Superior K722A-G kit bits and pieces: upshits a bit too soon, does not want to downshift quickly, however, it does go through all the gears. Driving it while shifting manually up or down is a freaking blast!!! So at this point, I'm as happy as one can be that all this work was not a total waste of my time!!!

    Will tune this transmission, I'm sure it would be perfect soon! This read from 2011 posted by Dave is very encoraging and informative!!! https://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ull=1#post5776

    So Dave, to the the question on how many transmissions were possibly diagnosed with a "need of full rebuild" where the VB was at fault? At this point, I'm sure, more than one? I know my was trashed, you've seen the clutches, had to be rebuild, and yet still needed that VB to make it all work!

    Thank you each and everyone for the feedback, details and encouragement provided, this was truly a great learning experience, and still much to learn. Now the literature on how to tune this 722.364 properly!

    Regards,
    D


    P.S. One of the reasons I didn't want it to go to parts. Ages from what it was when towed it home, it smoooooth!!!


    https://youtu.be/qHGK7CIWWvM

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  34. #79
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    RED DEVIL IS ALIVE!!!!!!!

    Thank for the fluids pointers...

    I have 1st gear start!!! Imagine that!!! Now, it runs, it drives, it shifts and it chirps tires...

    Perfect - no, not yet, its the time to fine tune it via bowden cable, modulator adjustment and may even be via Superior K722A-G kit bits and pieces: upshits a bit too soon, does not want to downshift quickly, however, it does go through all the gears. Driving it while shifting manually up or down is a freaking blast!!!
    Adjust the Bowden cable 2mm tighter, then see her downshift quicker and upshift later. Do that before you even think about shift firmness (modulator). If 2mm is too much, go back to 1mm, if not enough, go to 3mm.

    It's quicker, easier, and more effective for your complaints.

    Congrats and GL.

    maw

    P.S. Be aware that if you go too far in the Bowden cable adjustment, you may get a CEL. Those fine tuning amounts are what I learned from the experts here and at Sun Valley Transmission when I did this a few years ago. I know 2mm feels like tiddlywinks, but trust me it's not.
    Last edited by maw1124; 6 Days Ago at 09:20 AM. Reason: P.S.

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  36. #80
    Senior Member Duh_Vinci's Avatar
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by maw1124 View Post
    Adjust the Bowden cable 2mm tighter, then see her downshift quicker and upshift later. Do that before you even think about shift firmness (modulator). If 2mm is too much, go back to 1mm, if not enough, go to 3mm.

    It's quicker, easier, and more effective for your complaints.

    Congrats and GL.

    maw

    P.S. Be aware that if you go too far in the Bowden cable adjustment, you may get a CEL. Those fine tuning amounts are what I learned for the experts here and at Sun Valley Transmission when I did this a few years ago. I know 2mm feels like tiddlywinks, but trust me it's not.
    Thanks maw, will definitely start with the Bowden adjustment! Really looking forward seeing this thing rippin through gears again!

    Regards,
    D

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    YEAH! Awesome news - congrats! I really, really wonder what was wrong with your old VB... especially since you tore it down & cleaned everything .

    Side note: The 1992 400E VB you have (from WDBEA34E2NB672775) is not the original. The part number inked is 124-270-69-15 (minus the 270) and based on the font & format, appears to be from a factory rebuilt transmission. This would make sense as the #69 VB was only used on later .034's (1993-up). Since the round check valve #24 was present, it may have been an upgraded/rebuilt VB based on a 1992 VB. Just a bit of trivia as no 1992 400E left the factory with a #69 VB.

    maw is correct, btw, fiddle with the Bowden/control cable adjustment at the linkage behind the airbox to fine-tune the upshift points. As he said, a little goes a long way. Unfortunately you cannot modify the individual shift points (i.e., if 1-2 is early but 2-3 and 3-4 are ok, that is controlled by internal VB wizardry). Based on your description, I think the linkage adjustment may get you where you want to be.


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  39. #82
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    YEAH! Awesome news - congrats! I really, really wonder what was wrong with your old VB... especially since you tore it down & cleaned everything .

    Side note: The 1992 400E VB you have (from WDBEA34E2NB672775) is not the original. The part number inked is 124-270-69-15 (minus the 270) and based on the font & format, appears to be from a factory rebuilt transmission. This would make sense as the #69 VB was only used on later .034's (1993-up). Since the round check valve #24 was present, it may have been an upgraded/rebuilt VB based on a 1992 VB. Just a bit of trivia as no 1992 400E left the factory with a #69 VB.

    maw is correct, btw, fiddle with the Bowden/control cable adjustment at the linkage behind the airbox to fine-tune the upshift points. As he said, a little goes a long way. Unfortunately you cannot modify the individual shift points (i.e., if 1-2 is early but 2-3 and 3-4 are ok, that is controlled by internal VB wizardry). Based on your description, I think the linkage adjustment may get you where you want to be...
    Dave, no idea, old VB puzzles me too, all looked good, I cleaned all out, no broken pieces at all, but that's all in the past...

    Great "detective" work on the my FGS unit, I thought I've read somewhere that 69 as a part of ink stamp indicates a late unit, thank you for confirming that! Now, to #24 check valve, this FGS unit did not have it, which also confirms that it was built for the unit without the secondary pump.

    My valve body however, had #24 check valve. So that makes me wonder if my valve body was NOT original to my car to begin with... and if it was, what was the point of that valve since I don't have secondary pump in my gearbox?

    Too late today to mess with the car, will not have time until Thursday, but very much looking forward to seeing through these adjustments!

    Regards,
    D

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  41. #83
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Does this thing want to challenge me: No kickdown


    Cold engine - higher gear keeps fine until warm
    No slipping, 1st gear start up...
    Upshifts at about 2k (almost immediately) into 2nd, 3rd and into 4th.
    Absolutely NO kickdown at any throttle point
    Does not downshfit under load
    Dowshifts back to the 1st and near stop just fine
    Can be shifted up and down manually with perfect engagement (beast)
    Adjustment of bowden cable made no difference (tightens up fine)


    Checked the kick down solenoid wire - gear selector in "B" ignition on = voltage
    Direct connected solenoid to 12V, clicks solidly
    Resistance of the solenoid 14-15ohm (ish)


    Soooooo... Where do I go from there (short of driving this ting manually)?

    Regards,
    D
    Last edited by Duh_Vinci; 2 Days Ago at 10:55 AM.

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    I almost want to say keep adjusting the Bowden cable until you get some kickdown. But I want to see what others think. It could be that your Bowden cable was so far out of spec that the classic 2mm did nothing. When you mash it too the floor from start, what are the upshift RPM points? IIRC, even first gear should hold to around 4K.

    I’m starting to suspect that prior owners condemned the car over the transmission because they didn’t have this Board to sort it through. But that would be heady.

    maw

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Cheer maw!

    The prior owner gave up on the car after 3 shops did over $3K worth of work for misfiring and idle issues (throttle body replacement, engine wiring harness, MAF, caps, rotors, etc...). However, 2 major issues were improper routing/connecting of vacuum hoses under the hood, some where missing, and what was a "BOSCH Re-manufactured" MAF was actually defective!

    I've replaced every single vacuum line, every elbow and every rubber fittings, cleaned out all the connectors on rotors and caps - lots of moisture issues of the past and replaced with MAF with a good used unit. Engine is running excellent! I drove the car for few months, no tranny issues back during that time...

    To the gearbox... I maxed out the bowden cable, next turn it raises RPMs... There is no kick down of any sort under no load at any speed. 2K RPMs is where it shifts up. Even at the full down mash of pedal (that under the pedal switch) - it does not downshift at all. Could this under the pedal switch be a culprit or something else?

    Regards,
    D

    Not the best video, but you get the idea... https://youtu.be/EdTowIQ3bRo
    Last edited by Duh_Vinci; 2 Days Ago at 11:56 AM.

  44. #86
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    If you have validated that the switch is actually sending the signal, i would suggest that you check to make sure the signal is making it to the solenoid. In other words, verify the wiring is intact and functional.

    Glad to see you are still chipping away!


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  46. #87
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Yeah man, still fiddling with this Pandora's box... Voltage to the kick down solenoid is good, checked with gear selector on "B" ignition on...

    I don't get this thing... No kick down at all... This illustration:

    722.3_valve_body

    The #7 valve is the range/gear selector: manually transmission operates perfect, as this valve presumably changes the pressure in the valve body by being moved in or out within the VB through the gear selector (B-2-3-D etc). Holding very well, again, manually selected only.

    The #3 valve is controlled by the little hook/lever that is in turn attached to the Bowden cable (checked the actual cable before installing it back into the car, moved fully). The more pressure applied, the further in this plunger is pressed into the VB, altering the pressure inside the VB and that should assist with downshifting the car via the gas pedal. But it does not downshift...???

    I wish I knew more about this stuff... But I do know there is ZERO downshift via gas pedal at the moment...

    Regards,
    D

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  48. #88
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!! and to that my friends I drink!!!!!!!




    My mistake!!! After looking at the illustration above, and back in the garage at the actual old VB, and thinking why it downshifts via #7 (connected to Gear Lever Selector) and NOT downshifts via #3 (connected to Bowden Cable), no physical pressure to #3 via Bowden cable? I went under the hood.





    Somehow, during all the removal/rebuild process, the plastic V-shaped lever that Bowden cable connects to at the throttle linkage assembly - flipped backwards on 360 on axis. And while the Bowden cable looked tight and was fully connected, when the gas pedal was pressed, it did not move that V shaped lever or the Bowden cable at all, hence, no pressure was applied to #3 valve plunger at the VB hence no downshifts...

    This is rookie mistake, feel like a dumbasss, but I'm also a stubborn ass and don't give up easy!!!

    I will firm up the modulator a bit tomorrow and will fine tune the cable, otherwise, just took it for the drive with my 74 year old father, smile from ear to ear, he has been "cheering" for the well being of this R129 since day one...

    Beast and with the 1st Gear Start!!! I'm aftraid that as often that ASR warning light comes on now, I will be forced to replace that light bulb


    Cheers all!!!!
    D

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  50. #89
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Under heavy throttle, from a dead stop, you should get upshifts at progressively higher RPM's as the throttle position increases. The more plunger #3 goes in, the higher RPM's are. This will also allow kickdown without clicking the switch under the gas pedal, if RPM's are low enough.

    Question: As you are adjusting the Bowden cable at the linkage behind the airbox, are you getting ANY change in upshift RPM's? If not, I think your Bowden cable is not properly attached to the small L-shaped rod inside the transmission.

    EDIT: Nevermind! I posted before seeing your last post. Congrats on the fix!

    Dave M.
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  52. #90
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    ...Question: As you are adjusting the Bowden cable at the linkage behind the airbox, are you getting ANY change in upshift RPM's? If not, I think your Bowden cable is not properly attached to the small L-shaped rod inside the transmission...
    Dave, believe me, thought about, but I remember testing the cable after connecting to the gear box before mounting the VB, and also remember that I mounted it well under the hood, cir-clip and all... But to the "flipped" mounting lever under the hood???

    Here are my excuses: Never done it before, took apart too many things, way too tight between the motor and the firewall

    Regards,
    D

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Congrats! You explained your problems clearly enough that folks who have done it could help you. It sounded like the cable was askew. Enjoy that FGS VB. It really transforms these cars a bit, while maintaining factory feel.

    So your dad gets to keep the car?

    maw
    Last edited by maw1124; 1 Day Ago at 07:06 PM.

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  56. #92
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Cheers maw!

    Very happy to have this resolved, and very happy that it's not another part out.

    Dad, well, he loves the looks of R129, and after I got this one to run, asked if he would like to have it if I restore it completely. Unfortunately he can barely get in and out of this car, mom can't even do that (ex nurse, spine is shot) Just not for them. Nevertheless, anytime I work on the cars, their place or mine, paps always tries to help or just brings his comfy folding camping chair, sits down cheers for good results.

    I bought him and mom a Deville few years back, he loves it it's comfortable and well suited for both of them. He says it's perfect for "old people" so this red devil is mine after restore.

    Regards,
    D

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    Cheers maw!

    Very happy to have this resolved, and very happy that it's not another part out.

    Dad, well, he loves the looks of R129, and after I got this one to run, asked if he would like to have it if I restore it completely. Unfortunately he can barely get in and out of this car, mom can't even do that (ex nurse, spine is shot) Just not for them. Nevertheless, anytime I work on the cars, their place or mine, paps always tries to help or just brings his comfy folding camping chair, sits down cheers for good results.

    I bought him and mom a Deville few years back, he loves it it's comfortable and well suited for both of them. He says it's perfect for "old people" so this red devil is mine after restore.

    Regards,
    D
    Enjoy those moments. That’s really what these things are for anyway.

    Cheers,

    maw

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm



    I can’t believe that you could mess something like that up! I mean the throttle linkages on these things are just SOOO straightforward!

    Great job! I remember having an ‘oh sh*t’ moment after disassembling the intake and linkage on the 420. Crank arms, linkages, pivots and springs everywhere. Complicated and not super straightforward, but when you take a step back, logical and beautiful.




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  62. #95
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by a777fan View Post
    ...I can’t believe that you could mess something like that up! I mean the throttle linkages on these things are just SOOO straightforward! ...
    I can lol and now that I think back, I know exactly how it happen! One night was cold was wearing thick coat while tightening down the bell housing bolts/nuts, sleeve must have pushed it backwards


    Warmed up the car, and a test drive after some minor adjustments to the Bowden cable and modulator - what a fun thing it is!!!





    Regards,
    D

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  64. #96
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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    You’ve seen my prior posts on this. But when these boxes are tuned, it completely transforms the car into something you can actually see driving every single day, missing nothing compared to what’s on the road. 4 vs 3 easily accessible gears really wakes the .3 boxes up, IMO.

    The highest number of years I have in any car is 6 (E46 M3), and I can’t figure out why anyone cares about these 7-9 speed gear boxes. Yes, I can see why not 4. But more than 6, I don’t get. It’s just more gears to bypass when downshifting.

    maw

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by maw1124 View Post
    ...I can’t figure out why anyone cares about these 7-9 speed gear boxes. Yes, I can see why not 4. But more than 6, I don’t get. It’s just more gears to bypass when downshifting.
    I believe 7/8/9/10 gears in transmission is primarily to help mfr's hit government-mandated fuel economy requirements.

    There's a side benefit of the extra gears slightly improving straight-line performance, as it keeps the engine in the peak powerband for longer periods of time.

    But in general, all them gears are definitely not enhancing the driving experience.


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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    I believe 7/8/9/10 gears in transmission is primarily to help mfr's hit government-mandated fuel economy requirements.

    There's a side benefit of the extra gears slightly improving straight-line performance, as it keeps the engine in the peak powerband for longer periods of time.

    But in general, all them gears are definitely not enhancing the driving experience.
    Completely agree. Our 2011 A4 with 8 forward speeds drives me nuts. Constantly hunting to find the right gear.

    When you drop it into 'Sport' it completely locks out anything above 6. 7 and 8 are 'MPG only' cogs.

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Quote Originally Posted by Duh_Vinci View Post
    I can lol and now that I think back, I know exactly how it happen! One night was cold was wearing thick coat while tightening down the bell housing bolts/nuts, sleeve must have pushed it backwards


    Warmed up the car, and a test drive after some minor adjustments to the Bowden cable and modulator - what a fun thing it is!!!





    Regards,
    D

    Wow! Is it me? Or does the MPG gauge actually start to bend once it 'pegs' out slightly beyond 10?

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    Re: 722.3 - flaring up badly when warm

    Agree with you guys, I certainly feel that those "manyextramultigear" transmissions do very little to nothing to the driving experience, but fuel savings... Frankly, I'm fine with the 5 geared cars, 6 would be nice on the highway for lower RPMs.

    Quote Originally Posted by a777fan View Post
    Wow! Is it me? Or does the MPG gauge actually start to bend once it 'pegs' out slightly beyond 10?
    Oh yeah, it is stressssssin!!! Prior owner was a local doctor, well into his retirement, this car is not use to it!!! BTW, I see your siggie, 18.9... Wonder what's the average I was getting today, before the snow started???

    Regards,
    D

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