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Thread: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

  1. #1
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    Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    I have had a clunk for a while in the rear. Mostly prominent when hitting manhole covers, etc. Thought it was gas cell but replaced them. Could be sway bar links and or
    SLS strut bushing (lower)

    I was attempting to go thru the rear suspension today and started with an inspection. Everything felt pretty solid, but some rubber looked pretty bad. Most are original. I had one camber link fail years ago and it caused the car to dog walk under hard acceleration.

    This is what I found
    1. Forward subframe bushings are cracked pretty bad but not drooping.
    2. SLS top bushings are cracked.
    3. Sway bar link bushings are cracked.
    4. Carrier bearings look ok.

    I started by removing the old (plastic) sway bar link. I have a new set in my stock, metal link part 124-320-04-89.

    Comparing the two, the bottom bushing sleeve is 48mm on the new one and 38mm on the old one. No way in hell these new ones are gonna fit in the control arm.

    Did I get the wrong part? Did the control arms change during the production run? My car is an early 92.

    Can I get the upper SLS strut bushings seperately? I am not convinced my SLS strut is bad just yet but will try to pull it out and likely do the carrier bearing as well.
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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    The metal links are designed for wagons, and are wider than sedan links at the bottom, where they fit into the LCA. The wagon has different / wider LCA's.

    You can modify them metal links to fit a sedan/coupe/cabrio if desired. Only wagons had the metal sway bar links, all other 124's have the plastic ones.


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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Thanks GSXR! I may try to shave the sleeve down a bit. I was pretty certain I had seen these used on the 036 but didn't realize it required modification. Simple enough.

    One more reason to be THANKFUL! This community ROCKS!

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    I took it for a short ride without the link in the driver's side. It still clanks, so it must be the bushing on the SLS strut.

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    Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Most often, clunking from the rear is new rear hydro legs being required. Check my HOW-TO on the topic. Be sure to buy the four new rubber bushings that insulate the top of the legs from the chassis.

    https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8133

    You can use Sachs aftermarket hydro-legs and save a few bucks over factory.

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    Most often, clunking from the rear is new rear hydro legs being required. Check my HOW-TO on the topic. Be sure to buy the four new rubber bushings that insulate the top of the legs from the chassis.

    https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8133

    You can use Sachs aftermarket hydro-legs and save a few bucks over factory.
    What about the subframe bushings? Do they clunk over bumps or just allow 4 wheel steering under power?

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by atg View Post
    What about the subframe bushings? Do they clunk over bumps or just allow 4 wheel steering under power?
    I've never had clunking cured after replacing the 4 main subframe-to-body bushings. This will affect ride height and keep the subframe better positioned under power though.


    Quote Originally Posted by DarkStar View Post
    I took it for a short ride without the link in the driver's side. It still clanks, so it must be the bushing on the SLS strut.
    Crank up the volume in the short video below. If that is close to what you hear, there's a decent chance it's your SLS hydrolegs.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO1-cbVDTSk

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Mine is no where near that just yet. I shook everything I could underneath the car but nothing seems loose. It's all original so it is time.

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkStar View Post
    Mine is no where near that just yet. I shook everything I could underneath the car but nothing seems loose. It's all original so it is time.
    Forgot to mention, the noise in the video could not be replicated by yanking on parts under the car... it would only do it with the car in motion.


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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Forgot to mention, the noise in the video could not be replicated by yanking on parts under the car... it would only do it with the car in motion.
    I have something similar going on. Are all sls struts similar for w124s, and is there any way to adjust the valving?

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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by atg View Post
    I have something similar going on. Are all sls struts similar for w124s...
    Similar in basic function, yes, although wagons use physically different mounting. And, the SLS valving for non-wagons varies by application, and the 036 is unique with internal rebound limiting springs.


    Quote Originally Posted by atg View Post
    ...and is there any way to adjust the valving?
    No, at least not without sending the unit to a shock specialist for modification ($$$$).


    If you are looking for wagon stuff on your '87, there are Sportline wagon rear SLS hydrolegs that you can order...


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    Re: Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Similar in basic function, yes, although wagons use physically different mounting. And, the SLS valving for non-wagons varies by application, and the 036 is unique with internal rebound limiting springs.

    If you are looking for wagon stuff on your '87, there are Sportline wagon rear SLS hydrolegs that you can order...
    Picked up a couple. Only 1 left now. Oe are zf. I looked in the Boge etc catalog, but no cross reference. They have a couple of interchange numbers for wagons, but not the sportline part number. Just need to read the gerryvz how to on the r and r now. Maybe a job for tomorrow, after the starter (!).


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