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Thread: HOW-TO: Replacing W124 climate control vacuum pods

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    HOW-TO: Replacing W124 climate control vacuum pods

    Hello all,

    Well, today I finally had to bite the bullet and do what I'd been putting off for the past couple of months -- the replacement of the six vacuum pods that control the air flow out the various HVAC orifices (vents) on the dash. If your car has high mileage (and even if it doesn't) there's a very good chance that at least one of your pods is leaking and thus the HVAC system is not working as designed. The most common problem is no cold (A/C) air out the center dash vents. This was the problem that my wife has been experiencing since about January in her 1995 E320 wagon. I am including this HOW-TO on the 500Espot because the HVAC system in the 1995 E320 wagon is identical to that of our E500E cars, down to pretty much the last detail.

    Today was supposed to be around 95F here in Houston, so I decided to get an early start at 7:30 AM and work as long as I could. I finally knocked off at noon simply because I had to clean up and go over to some friends' house for a cookout (that's a BBQ to you Yankees). It was the first time I'd removed the dashboard on any W124 car before, and the job wasn't too bad. The rest of the precursor items, such as removing the ACC pushbutton controls, ashtray, steering wheel, speakers, instrument cluster, and airbag I'd done before. I'd also never removed the passenger side airbag and that was amazingly easy.

    All told it took me (taking my time) about 3 hours to remove the dashboard, from last sip of morning coffee to dashboard plonked on the garage floor beside the car. I spent another couple of hours after I got home from the cookout replacing pods and generally cleaning up the interior underneath the center console. I have a couple of clips that I need to use my magnetic search tool to find, but I'll do that tomorrow.

    The dash removal required I'd say about 2.5 hours of real labor, and the replacement of the six pods themselves required about 2 hours of my labor. I came across a bunch of degraded foam (crumbled in my fingers) in the center evaporator box, so I declined to begun buttoning things up until I go to the store at lunch tomorrow and purchase some adhesive foam to replace the crumbled foam. I know a lot of people don't replace the foam, but I believe in doing the job right while I'm in there so decided to just wait the extra day or two and do it. Also, I had to take some Super Glue (actually Gorilla Glue) to glue on several clips that hold on the side dash vents to the dashboard, as they had become unstuck from the bottom and top of the vents. These repairs were successful and the glue appears that it will hold when I reinstall the vents.

    I have included some photos of the job, at least up to the point where the pods were all installed. I didn't get any photos of the center pod that goes inside the HVAC evaporator box -- which is a REAL SOB to get at and replace, particularly not to gouge the delicate evaporator core's fins, which I did a little bit -- but I think I got photos of all of the other pods being replaced. GSXR has done a "key tips" write-up over on PeachParts forum that is very helpful at providing a few tips that make the job a bit easier.

    The job can be done without removing the steering wheel, but I recommend doing this as it only requires 10 minutes to remove and it just isn't in the way. The hardest parts of this job are the removal of the center pod inside the evaporator box, and the removal and replacement of the door (flap) directly above this pod, which has to be removed so that you can get access to the pod itself. Everything was complicated in the Houston heat and humidity and I found that I had to go back inside the house every 30 minutes or so for a glass of water and to cool down a bit. I was sweating out everything I was drinking in, not surprisingly. And I was working inside my shaded garage !!

    Anyway, I will do plenty more cleaning (and will do a full detail of the interior of the car when I'm all done) but I'd say that this job would require 6-8 hours (probably closer to 8 hours) for the novice. It's not a horrible job, just rather lengthy and tedious to do. There are a lot of tight spaces that you have to work in to replace the pods which complicates things in terms of making it frustrating. But the mechanicals of the job are actually rather easy.

    Tools required would be a variety of sizes of Philips and flat-bladed screwdrivers, 1/4" drive sockets with small/medium/long extensions, pry bar and a 10mm allen-head socket for the steering wheel bolt; Mity-Vac for testing the vacuum system; various types of pliers (bent needle-nose and normal pliers are best), and some good heavy metal tunes (Scorpions, Metallica, Judas Priest, Black Sabbath, AC/DC, early Ozzy Osbourne, Ronnie James Dio, and Iron Maiden are preferred). I'm probably forgetting some tools but what I mentioned will get you going. Don't wear gloves because you will need your tactile senses provided by your hands, and just accept that your hands are going to get scratched by sharp stuff inside the dashboard with this job.

    I'm not done yet, as I still have to reassemble the dash. I expect that process will be 2-2.5 hours, taking my time. It's important to keep track of the tons of small parts (nuts, bolts, clips, pins, etc.) that are associated with this job. I bagged and tagged everything in sandwich bags and a Sharpie, just like I did with my cylinder head rebuild for my W126.

    Anyhoo, here are the photos of the first half of the job.

    I'd consider this a "moderate" level DIY job. It's probably best to allot 2 days/nights for this job -- one to disassemble and replace pods, and the second to finish up and reassemble/test things.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

    Parts list for the 1994 E500 (and most other 124 chassis from 94-95):

    124 800 29 75 -- recirc/fresh air flap pod, left side
    124 800 30 75 -- recirc/fresh air flap pod, right side
    124 800 03 75 -- diverter flap pod
    124 800 02 75 -- center vent flap pod (inside the evap box)
    124 800 26 75 -- defroster pod
    124 800 09 75 -- lower footwell pod [rectangular]

    The 1993 and older cars (without factory dust filter) use some different part numbers for the recirc/fresh air & defrost pods.

    Most pods can be had most cheaply through AutohausAZ.com. However, one or two of the pods (including the center vent pod) must be purchased through MB (parts.com) and/or these are a bit cheaper through parts.com than AutohausAZ.
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    PART 2: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    More photos of the job as it progresses.....
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Thanks Gerry,


    That is very helpful and wow you were quick to get it uploaded. I thought for some reason that the heater box had to come out for the recirulating pod replacement.

    I think DaveM mentioned that the 86-87' boxes it is a bit easier??

    Michael

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    In terms of the pod in question, the boxes are pretty much the same for all W124 cars - I don't know that it's easier for the earlier cars as the design is essentially the same, and the pod inside is accessed after removing the top door.

    The repair manual says that the HVAC box must come out of the car. It doesn't -- just bending/flexing the top door and removing it provides access to the pod. My adult-sized left hand JUST fits down inside the box to reach the pod. However, a teenager or older child (or wife) hand would be even better. My hand is really paying today for the scraping it did getting in and out of that HVAC box.

    Quote Originally Posted by samiam44
    I thought for some reason that the heater box had to come out for the recirulating pod replacement.
    Actually the pod inside the box controls the center flap (center vent) for A/C. The recirc/fresh air pods are the paired dual-chamber pods mounted to the firewall just under the windshield and immediately behind the HVAC box (on either side of the fresh air flap).

    I will take more photos as I button things up in the coming nights -- I'm doing lots of cleaning up and replacing light bulbs and just doing general maintenance on things.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    DAY 2 UPDATE: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Tonight I worked or about 1.5 hours in the garage on the car. Mainly I did the following tasks:

    - Removed radio and used magnetic extender tool to fish around at bottom of center console for lost HVAC box clips and dashboard bolt (found 3 of four dropped clips and lost bolt)
    - Re-sealed the exterior of the HVAC box with two foam strips to replace the crumbling foam that was originally on the box
    - Replaced the four dashboard light bulbs that light up the center and side vent wheels and headlight switch center (two of these four bulbs were burnt out)
    - Replaced & fastened down the top cover of the HVAC box
    - Double-tested all vacuum lines/flaps/pods/connectors. Replaced a few rubber elbows that needed replacing
    - Prepared all wiring and items to make sure they were out of the way and in their proper places for when the dashboard was installed
    - Installed and test-fit dashboard; began to fasten to firewall

    A couple of tips -

    - First of all, you will undoubtedly find that the foam strips have disintegrated when you remove the top of the HVAC box. I went to Home Depot and got two sizes of foam weatherstripping with adhesive back, and affixed these to the top of the inside of the HVAC box to replace the original foam. Of course, you need to rub the old foam remnants off with your fingertips, and then vacuum it up before laying down the new foam. Often times you will see this disintegrating foam come out through your center vents in large chunks.

    - Secondly, when you order your new vacuum pods, be sure ALSO to order all new rubber vacuum elbows. These are the rubber pieces that attach the ends of the vacuum lines to the vacuum tree behind the passenger airbag (vacuum distribution point to each pod) as well as at the other end of the vacuum lines -- the ends that connect directly to the pods themselves. I found that several of my rubber connecters were a bit loose due to age and expansion (being attached for many years to the vacuum nipples on the vac tree and pods tends to expand the holes in the ends of the rubber elbows, and this coupled with the rubber losing its elasticity over the years can cause an issue whereby vacuum leaks are created. Even if a pod and its internal diaphragm are good and operating correctly, it's important that the vacuum lines have a good seal at their beginning and ends. These are extremely inexpensive parts and I wish I'd have had more of them on hand - I had some extras left over from my 560SEC top-end engine rebuild last year when I replaced all of the underhood vacuum lines and elbows.

    In short, NO VACUUM POD REPLACEMENT IS TRULY COMPLETE WITHOUT SIMULTANEOUS REPLACEMENT OF THE RUBBER VACUUM ELBOWS.

    Attached are photos of the progress that I made.

    Tomorrow night I ought to have the dashboard totally installed and most all items re-installed. The third night will be used for interior car clean-up, and a complete detail of the center console and interior of the car.

    Cheers,
    Gerry
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Gerry,

    Do you have the link to Dave's writeups on Peachparts? I just searched under "gsxr" and didn't come up with any pod discussions.


    Michael

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    You can find it here:

    http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/sho ... hp?t=35373

    Cheers,
    Gerry



    EDIT: Copying & pasting GSXR's original PeachParts post below:


    Hi all, thought I'd share my recent foray into ACC repair:

    Yesterday I replaced all the vacuum actuators (pods) for the climate control system in my sister's 1987 300D. Of the 6 total, only two are accessible without removing the dash - the pod for the floor vent flaps (pull the pushbutton unit to access this one), and the one for the defroster flaps (behind the glove box.) The other four - 1 center vent, 1 diverter, and 2 recirc - require pulling the dash. That means yanking the instrument cluster, steering wheel, p/b unit, glovebox, both lower trim panels, and then the whole dashboard. And then you need to pull off the top of the heater box to do the center vent & diverter pod, which is also a pain. This car (with 155kmi) had 4 bad pods: center vent, diverter, recirc (small lift), and defrost (small lift). Needless to say the system was NOT functioning as intended, although the ONLY symptom was a lack of air from the center vents with the A/C on. W124's are sneaky that way.

    So, I've said it before and I'll say it again: If you own a W124, particularly one that's older or with high miles, you should check the operation of the pods to make sure your ACC is working as designed! It's easy to test. Pull the glovebox and the 7-port manifold is right there on the left side, attached to the heater box. Remove one hose at a time and connect a MityVac. Each hose should hold vacuum. If not, the rubber diaphragm for that pod is torn. You can identify the function from the ACC service manual, if you want to know what's not working (assuming it's not obvious). The pods from Rusty (or FastLane, etc) are ~$15-20 each for the single chamber ones (center vent, floor, and diverter), and $25-30 each for the dual chamber (both recirc and defrost). I've heard that George Murphy sells a diaphragm kit to repair the pods but I don't know details or pricing, or how hard it is to repair them.

    It took me 2 hours to remove the dash, 1.5 hours to replace the 5 upper pods (I left the footwell pod alone), and 2 hours to reinstall the dash. Total was 5.5 hours. If you do this, I HIGHLY recommend replacing ALL the pods that require dash removal!!! This is NOT a job you want to repeat a few months down the road when the next old one fails. Change 'em all and then you don't need to worry about it for the next 10 years or 200kmi. The two exceptions are the ones that don't require dash removal; the defrost & footwell pods. These can be done at any time in 30-60 minutes.

    Tips for installing: Leave the flat metal bars attached for the recirc pods. Undo the connector tabs at the pod and reconnect to the new pod. Most of the pods have a lock tab that must be pressed before they will rotate out (I learned that the hard way last time - don't ask.) The diverter pod is held in by 3 round metal press clips, so you need to break out the old one and save the mounting clips for the new pod. The center vent pod is the trickiest. Although the manuals says you need to pull the heater core (YUCK!) it is not necessary. Remove the white pin in the top door. Remove the door by flexing it out of it's hinges. Remove the flat metal rod from the pod. Pull the hose and twist the pod out, it will *just* wiggle out from under the mounting bracket. Oh yeah - just before you reinstall the dash, do the MityVac test one last time on all 7 hoses! Otherwise, if you forgot to connect a hose you need to repeat the 4 hour dash R&R job! (Oh, joy!)


    For the record, of the three 1987 300D's I've tested, this is what I found:
    ================================================== =====
    Car 1 (155kmi) - bad center vent, diverter, recirc, and defrost
    Car 2 (229kmi) - bad center vent, recirc, and footwell
    Car 3 (238kmi) - bad diverter, recirc, and defrost


    And a couple more 124's I've tested since the original post:
    ============================================
    Car 4 (86 300E, 200kmi) - bad center vent, diverter, recirc, and footwell
    Car 5 (87 300E, 110kmi) - bad center vent, recirc, and defrost



    Part number list:
    ================================================== ====
    124-800-00-75 = Defroster pod (dual chamber)
    124-800-02-75 = Center vent pod (single chamber, twist-on)
    124-800-03-75 = Diverter pod (single chamber, small, attaches w/3 clips)
    124-800-04-75 = Recirculation / fresh air pod 1 (dual chamber)
    124-800-11-75 = Recirculation / fresh air pod 2 (dual chamber)

    124-800-01-75 = Footwell pod (round, small, to VIN A289309, 1986 to early 1987, two required)
    124-800-09-75 = Footwell pod (rectangle, from VIN A289310, late 87 through 95, one required)


    NOTE: Of the pods above, only the -02-75 (center vent) can be properly "rebuilt" using the diaphragm kits from Performance Analysis. The dual-chamber pods can only have the 'small lift' portion rebuilt properly. The diaphragm kits for the dual-chamber 'large lift' will restrict movement and should NOT be used... replace the recirc+defrost pods with new pods only! There are no rebuild diaphragms available of any kind (good OR bad) for the small round pods (diverter and early footwell), nor for the rectangle pods (late footwell).

    Photos are at this URL:
    http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_dash/


    Do yourself a favor - grab your MityVac, pull the glovebox, and check them out! Summer's coming up fast and a fully working ACC is a beautiful thing.





    Best regards,
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Part numbers for the vacuum elbows are as follows (also see attached diagram):

    Part 35: "elbow" connectors for vacuum lines - 201 805 01 03 - entire system requires 10-12 of these to replace all of them

    Part 38: "Y" splitter connectors for vacuum lines - 201 805 01 22 - entire system requires 3 of these to replace all of them

    Cheers,
    Gerry
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Photos from the last portion of this job are in this post.

    Hope this is useful for someone.

    Cheers,
    Gerry
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Very nice, so i have the normal "tempmatic" in my 1992 500E. The climate-automatic, as its called in germany was a option for Europe cars and default for US cars.
    What are the differences there with those pods? how can i check them on my tempmatic without stripping the whole dash?
    Christian K.
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    I don't have the answer to this question because all of my cars (R107, C126, W124 E320 & E500) all have the US-default automatic system. I've never worked on the non-automatic systems. We only see them rarely here on gray-market cars, so not so much exposure.

    My sense is that the taking apart of the dashboard and pods would be very similar to the US cars though -- I am sure that the non-automatic systems also use the pods.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    I'm attaching a photograph of the small rubber factory MB elbows that are used to connect the vacuum lines to the vacuum tree, and the vacuum line ends to the pods themselves.

    It's a good idea to replace these when you are doing the pods. The original rubber (though protected from much heat and wear by the dashboard) does get old and inflexible over the years (developing micro-cracks), and the holes where the vacuum tubing fits into the rubber do tend to enlarge over time.

    These units are MB part number A 201 805 01 03 and a quantity of 14-15 will give you what you need. I got these through parts.com at a price of $1.80 each; the current MB list price is $2.50 each. Small insurance to make sure that your vacuum connections at the "tree" and at each pod are rock-solid. 15-20 year old rubber -- I don't care where on the car it is located -- is ALWAYS worth changing to avoid later problems.

    DO NOT cheap out and get the crap aftermarket rubber (brand names Meyle or CRP (I call CRaP) that places like AutohausAZ and buymbparts.biz etc. sell (the "Worldpac" rubber)). Get the quality factory stuff.

    500ESpain, the genuine rubber elbow vacuum connectors are made in your country

    Cheers,
    Gerry
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz
    I don't have the answer to this question because all of my cars (R107, C126, W124 E320 & E500) all have the US-default automatic system. I've never worked on the non-automatic systems. We only see them rarely here on gray-market cars, so not so much exposure.

    My sense is that the taking apart of the dashboard and pods would be very similar to the US cars though -- I am sure that the non-automatic systems also use the pods.

    Cheers,
    Gerry
    Well the Tempmatic is also like the climate automatic, only better (im sorry to say that, but 9 of 10 W124-drivers in germany who know both say that besides me ^^).
    I therefor always wondered why the automatic-system was a very expensive option in germany, while the tempmatic is way better to control and does roughly the same.
    At the tempmatic you have those 3 temp sensors in the car too, you select the exact wanted temperature (per side! as oposed to the one-wheel-for-all at the automatic system) via the temp-wheels and it heats or cools until temp is reached per side.
    The control about which blower strength or which vents to use is IIRC however fully mechanical, via the front round knobs, which are connected to some metal links behind the dash, which themself are then linked to the vents.
    So, thats why i asked about the vacuum pods... if the system is partially mechanical, then there wouldn't so much of those pods needed actually (in theory at least).
    Christian K.
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    09/1989 300E - DB172 Anthrazitgrau-Metallic
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    My experience with the Tempmatic in MBs agrees with your assessment -- it is, indeed, better than the MB automatic climate control system we have here in the US.

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    I hate the automatic climate control and wish the manual system had been available as an option on US-spec cars. Only gray market cars in the USA have this, unfortunately. The worst part is the lack of a medium fan speed. I'd love to have separate left & right temp controls too. Shame it's so difficult to retrofit.

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Very useful, thanks! The fact that those little lights are broken in my car bugs me to bits

    Can you give me an URL for the Rainbow speakers? Mine aren't in top condition anymore and could use a replacement.
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Agree on this. I remember back in the 1989 when my friend was placing an order for his C124 he was advised to go for the Tempmatic as standard, but insisted Autoclimate as an option as it looked good. The tempmatic works well - I have mine set at 20c pretty much all year round and it regulates well according to cabin temperature. And if necessary I adjust the fan speed, but at most times speed 1 is more than sufficient. In fact it could do with another slower speed as i often get complaints from buddies that it's too cold or hot.
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Quote Originally Posted by JelmerBaas
    Can you give me an URL for the Rainbow speakers? Mine aren't in top condition anymore and could use a replacement.
    Rainbows (in USA):
    http://iqcaraudio.com/rainbowcaraudio/i ... index.html

    Only get the front speakers. The rear speakers used in the 500E are very good and have dual tweeters; the Rainbows are actually smaller and adding a third tweeter does not help anything. It's the front speakers in the 124 dash which are relatively crappy...

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    A few last photos:

    First of the few "Y" vacuum rubber fittings that are also located behind the glove box/airbag area. These fittings go to the "dual-phase" vacuum pods in the system that provide two levels of flap opening. Again like with the smaller rubber vacuum elbows, these "Y" rubber connectors get brittle/enlarged holes with age, and are best ordered and changed out when pods are being replaced.

    The part number for these connectors is 201 805 01 22

    Secondly, a new example of the side vent. I decided to replace the passenger side vent after I removed the original vent, because the clips had come unbonded from the plastic outer housing, and even though gluing them with Gorilla Glue worked OK, I wanted to have good vents installed.

    The part number for the passenger side vent is 124 830 10 54 (driver's side is 124 830 09 54) and the cost to me was nearly $40 (out of a list MB price of around $55 for the vent). It's nice to see that SOME MB parts are still made in the Fatherland.

    Cheers,
    Gerry
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Gerry,

    I recently experienced when having the AC on the difference in fan speed I II III or IV when having the air coming through the center air vents.
    Only when turning on the "umluft" its blowing higher volume.
    Do I have to get the same job done as explained in detail above? What parts apart from the Y rubbers have to be changed?

    Thanks,
    Rudy

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    I'm not quite sure what you mean with your description. There are diagnostic steps with the climate-control system in the manual (posted in stickies throughout the forum) that you can use to test the system for proper operation. I am not so familiar with the "manual" system because MB never made this manual system available for US cars -- only the automatic system. And the automatic system give you really next to no control over the fan speed -- it uses several different inputs (internal and external temperature, and mode) to determine the fan speed automatically (well you do have three fan-speed settings with the ACC - glacially slow/no airflow, automatic/supersonic, and supersonic/wind-tunnel speed).

    Also with the automatic system, ONLY cool air is supposed to come out of the center vents (either in A/C mode or cool air that is being mixed while the system is changing modes). I do not know if this is the same with the manual systems or not.

    Perhaps a member here with more direct experience with the manual system can help diagnose your question further. If you could be more explicit as to what is happening when you operate the system, it would also be helpful.

    Cheers,
    Gerry

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    Senior Member Rudy's Avatar
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Hi again,
    the fan speed will not increase although switching from speed 1 to 2, 3 or 4; meaning the volume of air coming through the center vents remain the same no matter how high the fan speed is supposed to be.
    But turning the button with the circle "Umluft" so the outside air is shut off, the mass of air is as high as I put the fan speed.
    Sorry for the awful discription.

    rudy

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    I wanted to add some notes:

    For removal and install of the dash. If you push up slightly on the rear(closest to you) edge of the defroster ducts, there is some flex and it helps them clear.

    On removal/install of center console to dash hardware- stuff a rag to catch any dropped socket/nuts etc.

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing the HVAC vacuum pods

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    The part number for the passenger side vent is 124 830 10 54 (driver's side is 124 830 09 54) and the cost to me was nearly $40 (out of a list MB price of around $55 for the vent). It's nice to see that SOME MB parts are still made in the Fatherland.
    Some price inflation on these parts over the last several years. These vents now cost $167 at MB Naperville. Each. I hope, for that price, they are still made in the Fatherland.
    Greg
    '94 E500
    '03 E320 4Matic Wagon (W210)
    '08 G55

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing W124 climate control vacuum pods

    I have a 1986 300e do u guys know what pod I need to replace for the footwell and where its located please

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    E500E Guru nocfn's Avatar
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing W124 climate control vacuum pods

    Do you have access to the EPC, or view a diagram on a site like mboemparts.com
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing W124 climate control vacuum pods

    Quote Originally Posted by gregz1337 View Post
    I have a 1986 300e do u guys know what pod I need to replace for the footwell and where its located please
    The 1986 models use different footwell pods, it will have two small/round pods. They are located behind the radio and will not be fun to replace. I'd change both at the same time.

    All the information you need, including part numbers, is in this thread:
    http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...placement.html

    Dave M.
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