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Thread: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

  1. #61
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    WDMS? That's a new one for me.

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by luckymike View Post
    Can the FPR cause too high fuel pressure?

    Manual says pressure at idle should be 3.2-3.6, I'm at 4.1.
    With vac line removed, should be 3.7-4.2. I'm at 4.6.
    Are you confident your gauge is accurate? If the fuel pressure is high, the ECU will adapt leaner to compensate, although it's limited how much it can adjust.


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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    Are you confident your gauge is accurate? If the fuel pressure is high, the ECU will adapt leaner to compensate, although it's limited how much it can adjust.

    I'm fairly confident. I've used it numerous times on our CIS-e cars and it seems to be accurate.

    What does WDMS mean?

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by luckymike View Post
    What does WDMS mean?
    Beats me. I Googled it and "West Deptford Middle School" was the top result.

    Gerry?


  5. #65
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    ^^^^^

    I know I know
    1994 E500
    249/275 - 8F19 or 8F32 or 8320

    1991 560 SEC
    199/268
    2014 E350 Cab 799/264

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    WDMS = What Does McLiar Say?

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator


  10. #68
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Well, I've never been happier to find a bad part. I've been having trouble with warm starts. As suggested here, I replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

    When I pulled the vacuum line off the FPR to start the replacement, gas came out! I was thrilled. Sure enough, new FPR in and now great warm starts. It's the little things.

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  12. #69
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Indeed, good work.

    It's a cheap "consumable" part (at least for the M104/M119) that should be replaced every 75-100K miles out of hand, if not before.

  13. #70
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    Indeed, good work.

    It's a cheap "consumable" part (at least for the M104/M119) that should be replaced every 75-100K miles out of hand, if not before.
    And like any consumable, it's inexpensive enough to keep one on the shelf, just like a crankshaft position sensor, especially of you have more than one M119 powered car in the garage.

    Dan

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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by LWB250 View Post
    And like any consumable, it's inexpensive enough to keep one on the shelf, just like a crankshaft position sensor, especially of you have more than one M119 powered car in the garage.
    ...and that, folks, is how the hoarding begins.


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  17. #72
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    HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by LWB250 View Post
    And like any consumable, it's inexpensive enough to keep one on the shelf, just like a crankshaft position sensor, especially of you have more than one M119 powered car in the garage.

    Dan
    Agree. I keep two new FPRs on the shelf (as I have a 104 and 119) and 1-2 emergency used examples (made in Germany) in deep parts archive.

    They do tend to go at odd intervals. They have been getting made in increasingly second- and now third-world countries in recent years.

  18. #73
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    Re: HOW-TO: Replacing M119 / M104 fuel pressure regulator

    Quote Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
    ...and that, folks, is how the hoarding begins.

    That's not hoarding, it's maintaining spares.

    My youngest son's W210 sedan borked in the drive through of a local Starbucks. I went up there with my SnapOn MTG2500, dumped the codes, then swapped out the CPS and had him back on the road within 30 minutes. Without that part on the shelf it the car would have been out of service for a day if not longer and I would have had to have it flat bedded home.

    Dan

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