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Thread: OWNER - JC220

  1. #1021
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by a777fan View Post
    You’re a machine Joe! Good on ya.

    I really do hope to follow in your 140 footsteps one of these days. The v12 is calling.


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    Thanks and yes you guys need to get into a W140 also!

    I think what is next is a return to my 320CE Sportline restoration now that I have almost all of the required sheet metal gathered up. Stay tooned for updates on that as new sections start being grafted in. It's alot of work for sure BUT they are all rusty here so it's either get stuck in and repair it or give up and send it to the scrapper. I don't do giving up very easily

    The plan is to make the whole bodyshell solid this summer then bodywork and prime it myself in Autumn and restore the undercarriage over winter before taking it for the final pro paint coats next spring. Who knows I may also be brave enough to re-spray it myself at home too I'll decide nearer the time. If I do spray it myself I'll go pro camera it!
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  3. #1022
    Senior Member Eno's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Joe, beautiful shine on the wood pieces on the W140 also.
    I will ask you after a couple of years if you are willing to repair/shine my Midnight Blue 92 500E wood trim pieces which are beat up/cracked from the sun.
    Nice work


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  5. #1023
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by Eno View Post
    Joe, beautiful shine on the wood pieces on the W140 also.
    I will ask you after a couple of years if you are willing to repair/shine my Midnight Blue 92 500E wood trim pieces which are beat up/cracked from the sun.
    Nice work


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    Hi Eno – thankyou!

    And yes I could help restore some of the wood if you like. The thing is though that if any of the wood lacquer is cracked it is not worth doing and not possible to wet sand it at all. It is hard to find good enough wood worth polishing up. Cracked wood really needs full refinishing which is something I dabbled in but have not yet finished for my own 500E. I would not offer full refinishing but if the wood trims you have are uncracked / un chipped then certainly I could help with it.

    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  7. #1024
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    For the 320CE I did get the last piece of sheetmetal cut form a donor car today. I should clarify that this area of trunk floor in my 320CE is very bad and rusted right through. This is the best donor car I could find. Note that all of these parts are NLA from Mercedes I have already checked and they could not sell me any of the new sheetmetal I required. This really sucks and is making these cars a pain to restore.

    I will be using much smaller repair sections from this piece to graft into my 320CE. This was just to get the panel I needed out. What a miserable way to spend a Saturday sawing this out!! It would be a very effective form of capital punishment

    20180616_125845.jpg 20180616_125911.jpg
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  9. #1025
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    JC, you never cease to amaze me with your sheer industriousness and tenacity.

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  11. #1026
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by gerryvz View Post
    JC, you never cease to amaze me with your sheer industriousness and tenacity.
    Thanks Gerry!

    For the C124 resto there is a serious amount of welding needed which I will feature on here for anyone interested. Rust is the arch enemy of the w124 / c124 chassis longevity. There are 2x things I have been thinking about for a long time and only now getting time to do it. That is;

    A full detailed thread detailing the common w124 rust traps and how to check them

    A "Real world" rust treatment test. This is something I have really wanted to do for years now to put the various products I use to treat rust to the test. A large rusty piece or steel is now ripe to mark up and section off to apply several products and leave it out in the weather to see what lasts the best. I have high hopes for some Wurth zinc products I have been using lately so we shall see. I will create that new thread in a couple of days. I might cut the steel in a large strip and affix it to the undercladding on my daily driver w211 to expose it to the most realistic conditions.

    This will be important data for my 320CE restoration as I will be using the latest rust conversion chemicals combined with my favourite top coatings. Some real data on what holds rust off the longest will decide on the finished unberbody coating to be used on the 320CE and future restos
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  13. #1027
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Rear quarter surgery is underway on the 320CE. Thankfully the inner lip on the rear quarter is still solid so I am grinding out the spot welds and peeling off the rusty outer trunk tub panel.

    20180618_195110.jpg

    These are also NLA from MB so I have a good used C124 rear tub to graft in which will also need this seem split apart. Now this is where I go to thinking. This spot weld joint design is very exposed to water ingress and difficult to properly seam seal the thin exposed edge. These seams are rust traps and ive never seen a solid one.... the moisture wicks in between the panels and rusts from the inside out.

    I am considering using a modern automotive panel / structural adhesive such as this for this flange

    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3241847&rt=rud

    Has anyone any opinions on using a product like this rather than weld the seam up again? The biggest advantage to me is that the joint will be fully sealed up from future moisture ingress and the surface area is very good to get a decent bond

    From what I am reading online there is an uptake in recent years with the use of these modern adhesives VS spot welding in some areas with vehicle manufacturers. It is a modern technique and this may be a perfect application for it?

    Edit: Based on the link below it follows my same thoughts. I think I am going to use a modern epoxy structural adhesive to this seam on my 320CE resto. If anyone has compelling reasons why I should not - please advise!

    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...7253#post37253

    I ordered a tube of 2k epoxy - 3M 08115 http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...e-brochure.pdf
    Last edited by JC220; 5 Days Ago at 07:00 AM.
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  15. #1028
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Interesting Joe!

    Any idea of the structural rigidity difference between welding and just sealing it? That would be my only concern. Maybe you could do a spot weld sealing combo?


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  17. #1029
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    That is the million dollar question! I would not want to do anything to weaken the chassis. The spot welds are spaced about 40mm apart on the flange. If a high strength panel adhesive is used it will grip on the entire surface of the flange which may have a stronger hold on the sheetmetal VS the spot welds alone.

    Again the biggest issue for me is sealing the gap so as moisture cannot get inside and rot the panel out from the inside – which is what this joint does. It is right behind the rear tyre(s) so gets sprayed with alot of water and the thin outer edge is almost impossible to fully seal from outside. This is a good example of this failure:

    20180619_185955.jpg 20180619_190013.jpg 20180619_191147.jpg 20180619_194115.jpg

    That was a pretty good condition panel too - they can be much, much worse at that joint. This is the good used C124 rear wheel tub I am grafting into my 320CE. The spot welds were ground off and the inner sheetmetal removed. This is the flange cleaned up - if using adhesive I would apply it direct to the clean steel. I may combine sealant with MIG plug welds.... some of the adhesive will burn off around the weld heat but nothing I can do about that. Ideally the joint would be fully glued and sealed from elements

    20180619_201431.jpg



    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  19. #1030

    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Any possibility to use a combo of the epoxy plus rivets?

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  21. #1031
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by Stevester 500E View Post
    Any possibility to use a combo of the epoxy plus rivets?
    I had thought about that but the aesthetics of having rivets underneath aren't something I'd like. It needs to look factory when done.

    I think I will combine an epoxy / sealant between the seams with one side pre drilled before. Then clamp up and allow the adhesive to cure before using a dremil to clean out the pre drilled holes. Then MIG weld them up without causing too much heat build-up. Should be a good compromise and the seams will mostly be filled with sealant which will be an improvement over the factory method IMO. Followed by the standard brush seam sealer etc after
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  23. #1032
    E500E Guru a777fan's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Quote Originally Posted by JC220 View Post
    I had thought about that but the aesthetics of having rivets underneath aren't something I'd like. It needs to look factory when done.

    I think I will combine an epoxy / sealant between the seams with one side pre drilled before. Then clamp up and allow the adhesive to cure before using a dremil to clean out the pre drilled holes. Then MIG weld them up without causing too much heat build-up. Should be a good compromise and the seams will mostly be filled with sealant which will be an improvement over the factory method IMO. Followed by the standard brush seam sealer etc after
    I think that sounds like an ideal idea. Best of both worlds IMHO.


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  25. #1033
    E500E Guru JC220's Avatar
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Nearly ready to start welding the replacement rear trunk quarter into the 320CE

    Before - caused by a leaking power antenna for years (I bought this car a number of months back for restoration)

    IMG_6744.JPG IMG_6715.JPG IMG_6746.JPG

    Rusty areas cut out:

    20180621_221516.jpg 20180621_203946.jpg

    Quarter cut from another C124 and getting some restoration of it's own before being welded in.

    20180621_222811.jpg

    I did clamp and align it up and it's millimeter perfect alignment so I'm happy with that. This 320CE does require some pretty extensive restoration.... it's going to be a busy autumn / winter To recap what's been said already in previous posts this car is getting a nut & bolt resto underneath which it needs for sure! But it's my favourite colour combo and a Sportline so well worth the effort for me. Then a full respray, new front + rear windscreens etc.
    Last edited by JC220; 2 Days Ago at 04:02 PM.
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  27. #1034
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Tonights efforts were spent fixing a rusty drain opening.... in the repair panel. (I got to piss with the c*ck I've got in this scenario)

    20180622_193732.jpg 20180622_213535.jpg

    And welding in a glavanised repair section to the lower left edge of the inner sheetmetal. So tomorrow the quarter can be fully welded into it's new home

    20180622_212713.jpg
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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  29. #1035
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    Re: OWNER - JC220

    Some welding is still to be completed underneath the quarter panel still but the main seem is done and no warping etc. Using an air blow gun to cool each tack immediately after welding keeps things nice and cool to prevent warping the existing quarter panel.

    20180623_205741.jpg
    1987 w124 200 - 3.6 AMG build | 1990 w124 300E-24 | 1992 w124 500E

    1994 320CE Sportline | 1997 w140 S280 | 2007 w211 E220CDI

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